FRAMING SQUARE: The forged tip of this construction tool allows for optimum contact and a firm grip, eliminating stripping. It's great for measuring inside or outside the square, as well as checking table saw adjustments.
CONSTRUCTION: This lightweight steel square is made of high-quality steel, ensuring optimum durability. As a result, it can survive even the most severe worksite damage. This tool is finished with a low-glare, anti-rust powder coating.
GRADUATIONS: This measuring gauge has easy-to-read 1/8" graduations and numbers that are EZ Read thermal bonded. It's ideal for laying out and identifying patterns in roofing, framing, stairway work, etc.
APPLICATIONS: This easy-to-carry building instrument is perfect for use in establishing right angles, and marking cutoff work on wide stock. It is a useful tool for designing layouts and patterns.
PRODUCT SPECIFICATIONS: This ergonomically designed carpentry equipment measures 8" x 12" and weighs 10.2 ounces (0.39 kg). It has a 12" x 1-1/2" body, 8" x 1" tongue, 1/8" thick.
12" body x 8" tongue, 1/8" thick
EZ Read permanent thermal bonded numbers and 1/16", 1/8" graduations
Rugged steel construction with low glare, anti-rust powder coating
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7CG...J7YNEQKX_0
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More or less a normal price for an 8" x 12" at box stores... Harbor Freight [harborfreight.com] is $4 before any coupon. Me, I would rather buy in person to double check it is actually square, but do same with levels.
Today, many prefer the 12" speed square with plastic being popular because it is light, does not rust or corrode and like all, has the lip on edge for quick usage... and cheap. Besides, the orange ones are easy to find. But sure, the red and blue metal speed squares are pretty.
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Now, an 18" x 24" framing square is a different usage tool. Having installed a zillion doors over the years, the framing square with a level is what I use. All solid doors come square, so if the frame is square, the door will fit the hinge side and top. The only thing left is to adjust in or out to the plumb of the wall and door to close flush. For narrow style commercial aluminum doors, the door is adjustable on the latch side up or down by blocking or reverse blocking and useful when the opening is not square, but the framing square gets you started.
More or less a normal price for an 8" x 12" at box stores... Harbor Freight [harborfreight.com] is $4 before any coupon. Me, I would rather buy in person to double check it is actually square, but do same with levels.
Today, many prefer the 12" speed square with plastic being popular because it is light, does not rust or corrode and like all, has the lip on edge for quick usage... and cheap. Besides, the orange ones are easy to find. But sure, the red and blue metal speed squares are pretty.
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Now, an 18" x 24" framing square is a different usage tool. Having installed a zillion doors over the years, the framing square with a level is what I use. All solid doors come square, so if the frame is square, the door will fit the hinge side and top. The only thing left is to adjust in or out to the plumb of the wall and door to close flush. For narrow style commercial aluminum doors, the door is adjustable on the latch side up or down by blocking or reverse blocking and useful when the opening is not square, but the framing square gets you started.
how do you check for squareness at the store?
how do you check for squareness at the store?
The traditional way at home is to use one to draw line, flip it over and draw another line. If the lines match or are parallel, then you're good. If they diverge, then you need a new square (or google how to tune it with a punch).
how do you check for squareness at the store?
You walk over to a piece of plywood, shelf or whatever that has a straight front edge and with the base of the square tight if it has a lip, or flush if not, against that edge of the plywood and the perpendicular side of the square to the right, mark the bottom and top with a pencil. Just a small pencil mark at the point closest and furthest from you. Then you move the square to the right and flip over so the perpendicular side is to the left and tight against the front edge, slide it to the marks you made before to see if they line up. As long as your front base line is straight and you keep the bottom of the square flush against it, that is how you quickly check any square without any measurements, parallel lines, etc.
It is not uncommon for mass produced squares to be out a fraction, but you can find one that is perfect. It is really important when doing repetition on same piece like stair stringers.
PS: You could start perpendicular left and then do right, but hopefully you understand what I am saying. If not, let me know and I will PM you a picture or something. There is probably a video on youtube, but they sometimes complicate it for no valid reason and it gets regurgitated.
The traditional way at home is to use one to draw line, flip it over and draw another line. If the lines match or are parallel, then you're good. If they diverge, then you need a new square (or google how to tune it with a punch).
You walk over to a piece of plywood, shelf or whatever that has a straight front edge and with the base of the square tight if it has a lip, or flush if not, against that edge of the plywood and the perpendicular side of the square to the right, mark the bottom and top with a pencil. Just a small pencil mark at the point closest and furthest from you. Then you move the square to the right and flip over so the perpendicular side is to the left and tight against the front edge, slide it to the marks you made before to see if they line up. As long as your front base line is straight and you keep the bottom of the square flush against it, that is how you quickly check any square without any measurements, parallel lines, etc.
It is not uncommon for mass produced squares to be out a fraction, but you can find one that is perfect. It is really important when doing repetition on same piece like stair stringers.
PS: You could start perpendicular left and then do right, but hopefully you understand what I am saying. If not, let me know and I will PM you a picture or something. There is probably a video on youtube, but they sometimes complicate it for no valid reason and it gets regurgitated.