07-13-2022 at 06:29 AM#62
Modifications possible with this build
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* The motherboard size is likely mini ITX. Meaning if you are adventurous, you can relocate the motherboard to another case, and get more bays in the process.
* System has 2 SODIMM slots. One is empty, another is occupied with 4Gig. It is possible to install 2x8Gig for a total of 16 Gigs. Regardless what Intel and Acer says, 16 Gigs (2x8) appears to work fine. This is the 8 Gig I used in mine. 8 Gig Team Memory [amazon.com]
*The system has a single SATA full length power connector. If you wish to connect a second drive that needs a full SATA power port, you will need a splicer, something like this.
SATA Power Splitter [ebay.com]
* Depends on how drives you install and what type of drives you install, the temperature in the case could be higher than desired. I modded the case to take a 140mm and spliced the 3 pin CPU fan connector. It would be useful to disable fan control in BIOS so it runs at high speed at all times. *spliced fan header [ebay.com]140mm fan [amazon.com]
* The system as shipped accommodates 1x3.5 above and beyond the DVD drive installed. If you want to change the DVD bay to accept 2.5 inch HDD< you will need something like this *a DVD caddy 3.5 9.7mm bay [amazon.com].
With all above modification, my system draws about 25Ws at peak.
Copied suggestions below for various uses.
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Desktop replacement, Rating: Medicore
This is a mediocre use case as a desktop replacement because the limited CPU capability and memory. The system comes with 4Gig standard which will mean a lot of swapping on Windows 10 in default configuration. If you can up the memory to 8Gig, I think the use case becomes fair. It is a reasonable system for lite web page browsing, spreadsheets, email, YouTube and Netflix at 1080P. ie, this is a good system for your grandparents if usage case isn't aggressive.
Gaming setup, Rating: Poor
Expansion slot is half height, power supply is 65W, there is only a CPU fan. ie, if you want to game other than minesweeper, you should look for a beefier system, such as the one with I3 and 250W power?. Again, if you go that route, maybe Acer small form factor shouldn't be what you should consider. For reference, my current game setup has a 850w ps and about 7 fans.
NAS, Rating: Good
This thing draws less power and is quieter than my Synology 2 bay. CPU will be more powerful than my Synology with more possibility of expanding via standard PC peripherals. A two bay Synology is about $200 right now which means you can use this thing at about half the cost. With this said, there are only 2 SATA ports and no additional cooling fans and will only accommodate 1 3.5" and 1 2.5" drive without additional engineering. If you are okay dropping in a 10TB 3.5 WD Red Plus and call it good, you have an excellent use case here. If you are desperate, I suppose you can always use external USB 3.0 enclosures for additional drives. Hardware transcoding via Plex for a single 4K stream shouldn't be a huge issue since this Celeron has a UHD600 onboard.
pFsense, Gateway replacement, VPN server, PiHole etc, Rating: Excellent
What this system really excels is as an always on, minimal power, minimal noise internet relay device. I listed a couple use cases above. I am thinking moving my VPN server (both up and down streams), PiHole, and Firewall server into this thing. As given the system has more than enough resource to run Debian or BSD, never sipes more than 15Ws, generates no heat, and is virtually silent, I can see this thing sitting next to my cable modem and be the consolidating gateway machine that is currently being taken up by a Synology, a number of Rasperberri Pis. For $100, this is just a bargain you can't find equivalent elsewhere. Now the only decision is to buy another one as a backup in case this breaks. :-)
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Installed this Crucial 32GB set [a.co] and did not notice any slowness. The only thing that happened was a delayed FIRST POST after installing the sticks, beyond that, so far so good. Screenshots below:
WIN10_SYSTEM [imgur.com]
USERBENCHMARK [imgur.com]
HWINFO1 [imgur.com] | HWINFO2 [imgur.com]
CPUZ_MB [imgur.com] | CPUZ_MEM [imgur.com] | CPUZ_SPD1 [imgur.com] | CPUZ_SPD2 [imgur.com]
10-min stress test with CPU Smart Fan feature turned off [imgur.com]
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Top Comments
This 88 dollar PC is not a powerful PC. That is correct. I'm not being duped into thinking this is a POWERFUL PC!
This is a laptop PC who's motherboard has been placed in a tiny tower case and can run windows 10/11, and you can add more ram, and comes with NVMe, with external power supply that laptop's use! So very, very low power 24/7 machine 6 watts idle.
It has bluetooth/wifi,ethernet port, 4 usb 2 ports, 2 usb 3 ports. 2 year warranty, intel 600 internal graphics, hdmi and vga port,
You know that Walmart currently is selling this at 299 dollars with good user review average.
I object to the word "duped" in your post. There are 2-3 threads on this device on slickdeals , with things people are doing with it.
Like the Raspberry Pi, it is hobby device, and cheaper than Pi,( if you were to buy Pi plus all the extra's you need to buy to complete Pi package).
Hopefully, people read YOUR post, and read posts from others that discuss the positive aspect of this device, so they know what they are buying and not buying. Alert heard, sir. . Your mission is accomplished. Torpedoes away. Next target!
Where to mount the disks? As previously mentioned, there's space for a 3.5" disk and a 2.5" disk if you removed the optical drive. Alternatively, you could remove the entire cage and replace it with something that'd accept two 3.5" disks [amazon.com] (I haven't actually tried it because I haven't received the computer yet, but it should work). Similarly, it should not be too difficult to put four 2.5" disks in the case. Use a cage if you want to be fancy. Velcro or duct tape if you just don't gaf. Or get a bigger case, but then you'd lose the cute little form factor.
Where to get the power? Y-splitters. Just don't overload the power supply.
Where to connect the data cables? Ah, now this is the fun part. See previous post regarding the limitations of the PCIe bus. If the goal is to install as many disks as possible, one way would be to put SATA controllers in the ×16, ×4, and ×2 slots. Yes, the M-keyed M.2 slot and even the E-keyed M.2 slot could probably be used for PCIe modules, including SATA controllers and Ethernet controllers.
Each lane of PCIe 2.0 provides 500 MB/s of bandwidth, just barely sufficient for SATA III's 600 MB/s. This is obviously not a problem for HDD, but could limit SSD performance. You might want to be... creative... with port selection, if you plan to use SSDs and HDDs together. For example, if you put a 2-port SATA controller in the ×2 slot, you might want to pair an SSD with a HDD on that same controller to optimize bandwidth usage.
Also remember the limitations of the DMI link. If you're using this machine as a NAS, your disks might be sharing PCIe bandwidth with your NIC. You could potentially install many disks and a lot of other stuff, but they'd compete for bandwidth. Proceed with caution.
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655 Comments
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Did you ever get an answer to this?
The other issue is this particular board has part of the PSU in an external power brick and part of the PSU baked in. It's easy to change the external power brick, but not so easy to change the onboard part. It could only handle so much power before quitting or going up in smoke.
I am on Realtek GbE
The other issue is this particular board has part of the PSU in an external power brick and part of the PSU baked in. It's easy to change the external power brick, but not so easy to change the onboard part. It could only handle so much power before quitting or going up in smoke.
As for the efficiency, you are correct, but we would be talking about a negligible difference (few watts max?).
I'm glad you saw his post as "funny".
If he was joking, maybe he will come back and comment.
We have had some people in thread knock this forum room, so maybe he thought I was knocking our beloved Celeron 88 PC.
Another thought for you, you bought 2 units, so take the 4gb ram out of one of them and put it to other Acer, so you have total of 8gb ram in that machine. And use the 8gb silicon power in the other Acer. So both units have 8gb. Nothing wrong with 8 gb's in both units. You can always upgrade later.
I wanted to provide an update regarding the issues I described above. I swapped out both RAM sticks from each unit and placed them in the other, and low & behold both units passed the Memtest.
Regarding the very slow WIFI download issue, I called and spoke with the Acer Recertified support folks listed on the side of the units. They gave me two options: send both units back (on their dime) for a full refund, or send them both back for repair. I decided to go with the repair option but will be out of the units for 7-10 business days.
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I plan to pull both 8gb sticks and delete any personal files I had saved before sending the units back for repair.
Regarding the very slow WIFI download issue, I called and spoke with the Acer Recertified support folks listed on the side of the units. They gave me two options: send both units back (on their dime) for a full refund, or send them both back for repair. I decided to go with the repair option but will be out of the units for 7-10 business days.
Also available at Newegg for 99 bucks.
Regarding the very slow WIFI download issue, I called and spoke with the Acer Recertified support folks listed on the side of the units. They gave me two options: send both units back (on their dime) for a full refund, or send them both back for repair. I decided to go with the repair option but will be out of the units for 7-10 business days.
p.s. I have wifi doggles in my PC parts box, a few of them that I used in different PC's over the years. If you have wifi usb devices, maybe see if they work, just to test wifi. And narrow down the problem. Maybe wifi drivers, maybe they are wrong, and need to be updated, right? Under Device Manager, look at them, and see if any caution type icon next to it. Just trouble-shooting outloud.
p.s.s. Maybe for fun, make a chromeosflex usb stick, I did, and start up from the stick and test chrome and see how the wifi signal is using chrome usb. Don't install chrome , just test it out.
p.s.s.s Just to make sure you are running windows 10/11 right and not some other OS, first things first. Did you do ANYTHING different when you got the unit, you installed windows 10/11 and had wifi issue? right?
p.s. I have wifi doggles in my PC parts box, a few of them that I used in different PC's over the years. If you have wifi usb devices, maybe see if they work, just to test wifi. And narrow down the problem. Maybe wifi drivers, maybe they are wrong, and need to be updated, right? Under Device Manager, look at them, and see if any caution type icon next to it. Just trouble-shooting outloud.
p.s.s. Maybe for fun, make a chromeosflex usb stick, I did, and start up from the stick and test chrome and see how the wifi signal is using chrome usb. Don't install chrome , just test it out.
p.s.s.s Just to make sure you are running windows 10/11 right and not some other OS, first things first. Did you do ANYTHING different when you got the unit, you installed windows 10/11 and had wifi issue? right?
I had taken a look at the WIFI adapter under Device Manager, and did not see any warnings on either unit. On both units, right after installing the extra 8gb RAM I immediately did the free Windows 11 upgrade plus any subsequent updates that were available. I am definitely running Windows 11 on both.
I had not heard of chromeosflex before, but you have me interested now that I am dipping my feet back into tinkering with PC's after taking a break for a good 20 years or so. If it is not too involved, I might quickly try installing that onto a USB drive and see if the WIFI works the same as under Windows on these PC's. The funny thing is that I am not really planning to use these boxes with WIFI much, however I figure now is my chance to get it fixed before the warranty/return period ends and I lose my options. I guess having the option for WIFI might come in handy if I need a PC running in a spot where I haven't run ethernet cable.
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I had taken a look at the WIFI adapter under Device Manager, and did not see any warnings on either unit. On both units, right after installing the extra 8gb RAM I immediately did the free Windows 11 upgrade plus any subsequent updates that were available. I am definitely running Windows 11 on both.
I had not heard of chromeosflex before, but you have me interested now that I am dipping my feet back into tinkering with PC's after taking a break for a good 20 years or so. If it is not too involved, I might quickly try installing that onto a USB drive and see if the WIFI works the same as under Windows on these PC's. The funny thing is that I am not really planning to use these boxes with WIFI much, however I figure now is my chance to get it fixed before the warranty/return period ends and I lose my options. I guess having the option for WIFI might come in handy if I need a PC running in a spot where I haven't run ethernet cable.
We are just trying to find out if chromeosflex has drivers that work during wifi. If they do, and it's good speed, the wifi adapter should be good and it could be driver issue.
Now if nothing let's the wifi work on the motherboard, then yeah, return it. I don't know if Acer CARE app can do any upgrades on your PC. Did you get a Acer firmware bios update? Check optional updates in windows 11 to, to see if any optional drive or firmware is available to you. It could be outdated bios or something else. At least trouble shoot it before sending it in, ... just so you have experience at trouble-shooting it. Maybe someone else has a suggestion too.
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