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That's true for most newer cars. Some really old OBD-II cars will not retest fast enough and pass.
Basically when OBD-II rolled out in 1996, code scanners were so few and far between that the ECMs would retest much longer cycles. You could clear codes and eek through, so CARB and EPA required shorter retesting periods.
The "clear" function clears some non-historical codes, but when the ECM re-runs the tests, they'll come right back if they're still failing. So it won't work for a smog check with any car made in the last 15-20 years.
It's still a concern for a test drive, so you should definitely test drive a car for 15 minutes of run time, and then retest with a scan tool after.
Bluetooth range is only 90ft and most devices identify the device that's trying to pair. There's also pins required on both ends for devices of a certain class and indicator icons when you're tethering via Bluetooth.
Not to mention, the nefarious person would need to know the MAC address of the device you originally paired to and most of those dongles don't have more than a 15ft range... so they'd be pretty close by when grabbing this.
just remember you can use these code scanner tools to turn off the check engine light, but dont even think about taking said car in to be inspected as even though the check engine light is off on the dashboard, the onboard computer still knows there is a problem and said car will not pass.
Depends on the issue. I have a recurring code that comes up every few weeks on my car. If I clear the code and drive it 30-40 miles then it passes the inspection just fine.
Does anyone here on this specific model? How is it?
Quick and fast, does the job. The I/M readiness check is way better than most scanners, not having to scroll around the menus to look for readiness data. It also has green check marks so it looks more friendly for reading readiness.
Also the light indicator for codes and no codes is redundant but, nonetheless adds to the user friendliness of it.
Launch makes a lot of more advanced readers also. This is a really good one for the price compared to the $20 type code only black and white readers, especially with the extra functions and ease of use.
I own two other $300+ readers for specific advanced stuff, but always defer to this one for initial quick checking and smog readiness checking.
just remember you can use these code scanner tools to turn off the check engine light, but dont even think about taking said car in to be inspected as even though the check engine light is off on the dashboard, the onboard computer still knows there is a problem and said car will not pass.
1. Easy way is to find a smog guy who knows how to bypass the issue and get you passed.
2. You can imagine that dealer mechanics can "fix" any issue with their proprietary tools because their company made the car.
3. https://netcult.ch/elmue/HUD%20ECU%20Hacker/
And you can imagine those handy with electronics are happy hacking around the same systems.
You can get a car to pass....just need to know the right ways.
just remember you can use these code scanner tools to turn off the check engine light, but dont even think about taking said car in to be inspected as even though the check engine light is off on the dashboard, the onboard computer still knows there is a problem and said car will not pass.
That's not how OBDII works.
When the battery gets pulled or a reset code is sent, the DCT Readiness memory gets cleared.
These readiness checks are what determine whether the car can be smogged or not.
Each car has different requirements, but most can clear readiness in under an hour of driving and much less if you have a shop manual with required procedures.
There's no standard for OBDII which requires past codes be stored anywhere on the ECU. With that said, most severe codes will throw well before you finish clearing DCT readiness.
Be aware re: Bluetooth dongles that your phone will remember the network name used to connect to the device. Knowing that such devices are popular and that their network names are predictable, a malicious person can exploit these facts by creating a network of the same name to which your phone will automatically connect when in proximity. This will then enable them to monitor the phone's traffic.
I won't say how I know this.
That's pretty tinfoil hat...
Bluetooth range is only 90ft and most devices identify the device that's trying to pair. There's also pins required on both ends for devices of a certain class and indicator icons when you're tethering via Bluetooth.
Not to mention, the nefarious person would need to know the MAC address of the device you originally paired to and most of those dongles don't have more than a 15ft range... so they'd be pretty close by when grabbing this.
I had to do SRS control unit replacement and wasn't sure if any of the cheap scanners will reset the light and do complete diagnostic. Ended up buying Foxwell NT680 pro. Turned out i didn't even need to reset or diagnose anything. Replacing the unit reset everything automatically and all works well. I don't like the interface and support is non-existent for Foxwell brand. They email from china. Takes days and that's only immediately after i received it so that i don't return it within 15 days. It's expensive but has limited functionality. I bought it for lifetime updates. Problem with these scanners they advertise ALL systems but not all cars are capable of ALL system. My scanner can read TPMS but my car "doesn't have that functionality". Not all cars and not all scanners can read, reset, program, everything. I watched one video where a guy had pro grade scanner and it gave him false positive. In the past when i used a BT dongle with Torque app i also had some false positives. When i took it to a dealer they found nothing. This scanner is probably just as good as a cheap BT dongle.
Best thing you can do to reset your lights (check engine/smog crap)is to unhook the car battery cable from battery for 5 minutes. Resets the computer. Works like a charm on my 2004 Lexus 330.
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Basically when OBD-II rolled out in 1996, code scanners were so few and far between that the ECMs would retest much longer cycles. You could clear codes and eek through, so CARB and EPA required shorter retesting periods.
The "clear" function clears some non-historical codes, but when the ECM re-runs the tests, they'll come right back if they're still failing. So it won't work for a smog check with any car made in the last 15-20 years.
It's still a concern for a test drive, so you should definitely test drive a car for 15 minutes of run time, and then retest with a scan tool after.
Bluetooth range is only 90ft and most devices identify the device that's trying to pair. There's also pins required on both ends for devices of a certain class and indicator icons when you're tethering via Bluetooth.
Not to mention, the nefarious person would need to know the MAC address of the device you originally paired to and most of those dongles don't have more than a 15ft range... so they'd be pretty close by when grabbing this.
Works great for pulling codes and resetting lights.
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I've done this on my last two cars actually.
Also the light indicator for codes and no codes is redundant but, nonetheless adds to the user friendliness of it.
Launch makes a lot of more advanced readers also. This is a really good one for the price compared to the $20 type code only black and white readers, especially with the extra functions and ease of use.
I own two other $300+ readers for specific advanced stuff, but always defer to this one for initial quick checking and smog readiness checking.
2. You can imagine that dealer mechanics can "fix" any issue with their proprietary tools because their company made the car.
3. https://netcult.ch/elmue/HUD%20ECU%20Hac
And you can imagine those handy with electronics are happy hacking around the same systems.
You can get a car to pass....just need to know the right ways.
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When the battery gets pulled or a reset code is sent, the DCT Readiness memory gets cleared.
These readiness checks are what determine whether the car can be smogged or not.
Each car has different requirements, but most can clear readiness in under an hour of driving and much less if you have a shop manual with required procedures.
There's no standard for OBDII which requires past codes be stored anywhere on the ECU. With that said, most severe codes will throw well before you finish clearing DCT readiness.
I won't say how I know this.
Bluetooth range is only 90ft and most devices identify the device that's trying to pair. There's also pins required on both ends for devices of a certain class and indicator icons when you're tethering via Bluetooth.
Not to mention, the nefarious person would need to know the MAC address of the device you originally paired to and most of those dongles don't have more than a 15ft range... so they'd be pretty close by when grabbing this.
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