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Model: GE 6-Outlet Grounded Wall Tap With Transformer/Resettable Circuit, White, 56575
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I think you might be confusing earth ground (third round prong) and neutral (one of the two slots on all outlets).
Old wiring (outlets with only two prongs) did not have the third prong which is a redundant earth ground to help redirect current away from your body when there was a short in the wiring to a metal component you might be holding.
All circuits have a neutral in some capacity since otherwise you don't have a complete circuit and electricity will not flow. However in the circuits for light switches (even in more recent wiring after grounding was added), electricians would not run the neutral wire down from a light fixture to the light switch box since all you really need to do is interrupt the "hot" leg of the circuit to get the switching behavior. Modern smart switches that replace a light switch directly need some amount of current to always be flowing and to reliably do that, they need a neutral to complete their own circuit. There are some "smart" switches that don't need a circuit in the box, but technically those are always using more electricity by providing some small amount of current through the whole light fixture rather than just using the current they need by having their own complete circuit with a direct neutral connection.
(Edit) Deleting - not trying to say this is a bad deal, was just calling out some false sense of security in once trusted name brands. Read quotes in other posts later if you want to see this comment.
(Edit) Deleting - not trying to say this is a bad deal, was just calling out some false sense of security in once trusted name brands. Read quotes in other posts later if you want to see this comment.
Last edited by statueim January 2, 2023 at 10:52 AM.
I don't see a breaker setting listed anywhere? I would worry that this thing will eventually start tripping often. I had a cheap power strip that would do that. It wouldn't take more than around 8-10A with a 15A rating. I was using it for just low-powered chargers and the like, but didn't trust it and tossed it.
Just curious. A lot of the smart switches require a neutral, and of course my house doesn't have neutrals in most of the circuits. So, in principle could they be wired into a plug like this?
Just curious. A lot of the smart switches require a neutral, and of course my house doesn't have neutrals in most of the circuits. So, in principle could they be wired into a plug like this?
Switch wiring to a light fixture and outlet wiring are very different. All outlets have a neutral. Light switches on the other hand could choose to take the neutral directly back to the circuit to daisy chain to another lighting outlet without going back to the switch.
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Quote
from Steve1971
:
Just curious. A lot of the smart switches require a neutral, and of course my house doesn't have neutrals in most of the circuits. So, in principle could they be wired into a plug like this?
I think you might be confusing earth ground (third round prong) and neutral (one of the two slots on all outlets).
Old wiring (outlets with only two prongs) did not have the third prong which is a redundant earth ground to help redirect current away from your body when there was a short in the wiring to a metal component you might be holding.
All circuits have a neutral in some capacity since otherwise you don't have a complete circuit and electricity will not flow. However in the circuits for light switches (even in more recent wiring after grounding was added), electricians would not run the neutral wire down from a light fixture to the light switch box since all you really need to do is interrupt the "hot" leg of the circuit to get the switching behavior. Modern smart switches that replace a light switch directly need some amount of current to always be flowing and to reliably do that, they need a neutral to complete their own circuit. There are some "smart" switches that don't need a circuit in the box, but technically those are always using more electricity by providing some small amount of current through the whole light fixture rather than just using the current they need by having their own complete circuit with a direct neutral connection.
I think you might be confusing earth ground (third round prong) and neutral (one of the two slots on all outlets).
Old wiring (outlets with only two prongs) did not have the third prong which is a redundant earth ground to help redirect current away from your body when there was a short in the wiring to a metal component you might be holding.
All circuits have a neutral in some capacity since otherwise you don't have a complete circuit and electricity will not flow. However in the circuits for light switches (even in more recent wiring after grounding was added), electricians would not run the neutral wire down from a light fixture to the light switch box since all you really need to do is interrupt the "hot" leg of the circuit to get the switching behavior. Modern smart switches that replace a light switch directly need some amount of current to always be flowing and to reliably do that, they need a neutral to complete their own circuit. There are some "smart" switches that don't need a circuit in the box, but technically those are always using more electricity by providing some small amount of current through the whole light fixture rather than just using the current they need by having their own complete circuit with a direct neutral connection.
This is very well put. Most people confuse these wires when in order to make a circuit you have to have a neutral wire - there's a lot of confusion about a neutral wire
Last edited by QueensGambit January 2, 2023 at 11:04 AM.
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OP, weren't you complaining about Chinese shill products in another thread recently?
As an FYI, GE wall taps are made under license of the GE name by Jasco Products (US headquarters) who then usually further subcontracts to another third party manufacturer in China to apply the GE label: https://byjasco.com/media/magewor...t_003_.pdf
Just saying, most everything in outlet taps come from some no-name in China whether you want to pay for the extra GE label or not.
I don't have the care or time to research this but I'm sure the quality control and standards of a GE "labeled" product vs a complete Chinese branded shill are night and day. Highly doubt GE would put their stamp on a product if it didn't meet standards.
Last edited by QueensGambit January 2, 2023 at 10:12 AM.
The other product you referred to as "Chinese branded shill" was indeed a brand I had never heard of before. I likely haven't heard of the name of the actual manufacturer of this product either.
For the other product, they also put in the effort to test to applicable UL standards with a nationally recognized test lab (NRTL). UL listings aren't the only game in town for safety testing. Big name manufacturers often list with other NRTLs like ETL, TUV, and CSA for selling products (including medical devices like CT scanners) in the United States and internationally.
In order to maintain the listing with an NRTL, periodic audits are performed. This is to ensure quality control over time. I don't think the process for quality control of the two products would be night-and-day different.
That one also doesn't have the screw mount for the outlet, so when unplugging plugs, it pulls out the whole unit and some folks hate that. Just pointing it out for the next person!
I own this and have had it for about a year and a half. i snagged it for my kitchen countertop outlet that i have a toaster oven and microwave plugged into with no GFI inline. this allows those to stay plugged in, even if i need a stand mixer or whatever.
but basically, if i run both the microwave/toaster simultaneously, it's going to trip the 15A breaker out in the garage and this saves me a few steps when that happens. sure, i should put in a 20A breaker at some point. but ths was an easy quick fix that has served us well.
works reliably so far and wherever it's made, it's made just fine as far as i can see.
The other product you referred to as "Chinese branded shill" was indeed a brand I had never heard of before. I likely haven't heard of the name of the actual manufacturer of this product either.
For the other product, they also put in the effort to test to applicable UL standards with a nationally recognized test lab (NRTL). UL listings aren't the only game in town for safety testing. Big name manufacturers often list with other NRTLs like ETL, TUV, and CSA for selling products (including medical devices like CT scanners) in the United States and internationally.
In order to maintain the listing with an NRTL, periodic audits are performed. This is to ensure quality control over time. I don't think the process for quality control of the two products would be night-and-day different.
Do you have a substitute product - manufactured wherever you deem acceptable that you recommend for this price point? Link it here then. I see you've posted a whopping 2 deals. Otherwise, it seems like people are enjoying this deal as it's on the front page.
Last edited by QueensGambit January 2, 2023 at 09:56 AM.
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Old wiring (outlets with only two prongs) did not have the third prong which is a redundant earth ground to help redirect current away from your body when there was a short in the wiring to a metal component you might be holding.
All circuits have a neutral in some capacity since otherwise you don't have a complete circuit and electricity will not flow. However in the circuits for light switches (even in more recent wiring after grounding was added), electricians would not run the neutral wire down from a light fixture to the light switch box since all you really need to do is interrupt the "hot" leg of the circuit to get the switching behavior. Modern smart switches that replace a light switch directly need some amount of current to always be flowing and to reliably do that, they need a neutral to complete their own circuit. There are some "smart" switches that don't need a circuit in the box, but technically those are always using more electricity by providing some small amount of current through the whole light fixture rather than just using the current they need by having their own complete circuit with a direct neutral connection.
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank statueim
Old wiring (outlets with only two prongs) did not have the third prong which is a redundant earth ground to help redirect current away from your body when there was a short in the wiring to a metal component you might be holding.
All circuits have a neutral in some capacity since otherwise you don't have a complete circuit and electricity will not flow. However in the circuits for light switches (even in more recent wiring after grounding was added), electricians would not run the neutral wire down from a light fixture to the light switch box since all you really need to do is interrupt the "hot" leg of the circuit to get the switching behavior. Modern smart switches that replace a light switch directly need some amount of current to always be flowing and to reliably do that, they need a neutral to complete their own circuit. There are some "smart" switches that don't need a circuit in the box, but technically those are always using more electricity by providing some small amount of current through the whole light fixture rather than just using the current they need by having their own complete circuit with a direct neutral connection.
Old wiring (outlets with only two prongs) did not have the third prong which is a redundant earth ground to help redirect current away from your body when there was a short in the wiring to a metal component you might be holding.
All circuits have a neutral in some capacity since otherwise you don't have a complete circuit and electricity will not flow. However in the circuits for light switches (even in more recent wiring after grounding was added), electricians would not run the neutral wire down from a light fixture to the light switch box since all you really need to do is interrupt the "hot" leg of the circuit to get the switching behavior. Modern smart switches that replace a light switch directly need some amount of current to always be flowing and to reliably do that, they need a neutral to complete their own circuit. There are some "smart" switches that don't need a circuit in the box, but technically those are always using more electricity by providing some small amount of current through the whole light fixture rather than just using the current they need by having their own complete circuit with a direct neutral connection.
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As an FYI, GE wall taps are made under license of the GE name by Jasco Products (US headquarters) who then usually further subcontracts to another third party manufacturer in China to apply the GE label: https://byjasco.com/media/magewor...t_003
Just saying, most everything in outlet taps come from some no-name in China whether you want to pay for the extra GE label or not.
https://www.amazon.com/Extender-5...B08XZMJ342
https://www.amazon.com/Extender-5...B08XZMJ342
For the other product, they also put in the effort to test to applicable UL standards with a nationally recognized test lab (NRTL). UL listings aren't the only game in town for safety testing. Big name manufacturers often list with other NRTLs like ETL, TUV, and CSA for selling products (including medical devices like CT scanners) in the United States and internationally.
In order to maintain the listing with an NRTL, periodic audits are performed. This is to ensure quality control over time. I don't think the process for quality control of the two products would be night-and-day different.
https://www.amazon.com/Extender-5...B08XZMJ342
That one also doesn't have the screw mount for the outlet, so when unplugging plugs, it pulls out the whole unit and some folks hate that. Just pointing it out for the next person!
but basically, if i run both the microwave/toaster simultaneously, it's going to trip the 15A breaker out in the garage and this saves me a few steps when that happens. sure, i should put in a 20A breaker at some point. but ths was an easy quick fix that has served us well.
works reliably so far and wherever it's made, it's made just fine as far as i can see.
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Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
For the other product, they also put in the effort to test to applicable UL standards with a nationally recognized test lab (NRTL). UL listings aren't the only game in town for safety testing. Big name manufacturers often list with other NRTLs like ETL, TUV, and CSA for selling products (including medical devices like CT scanners) in the United States and internationally.
In order to maintain the listing with an NRTL, periodic audits are performed. This is to ensure quality control over time. I don't think the process for quality control of the two products would be night-and-day different.
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