expiredQueensGambit posted Jan 02, 2023 10:15 AM
Item 1 of 5
Item 1 of 5
expiredQueensGambit posted Jan 02, 2023 10:15 AM
GE 6-Outlet Wall Tap Power Outlet Extender (White)
$6.40
$7.99
19% offAmazon
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Deal Details
Amazon has GE 6-Outlet Wall Tap Power Outlet Extender (White; 56575) on sale for $6.39. Shipping is free w/ Prime or on $25+ orders.
Thanks to Community Member QueensGambit for finding this deal.
Key Features:
Thanks to Community Member QueensGambit for finding this deal.
Key Features:
- 6 Grounded outlets: Accepts 3 bulky AC adapters & 3 standard plugs
- Circuit Breaker: 15A circuit breaker shuts off power to the outlers in case of an overload or short circuit
- Reset Switch: Handy switch located on top of the unit
- UL Listed
- 90-Day Warranty
Editor's Notes
Written by powerfuldoppler | Staff- About this deal:
- This price is $1.60 less (20% savings) than the listed retail price.
- About this product:
- 4.7 out of 5 stars rating at Amazon based on over 39,850 customer reviews
- About this store:
- Don't have Amazon Prime? Students can get a free 6-Month Amazon Prime trial with free 2-day shipping, unlimited video streaming & more.
- If you're not a student, there's also a free 1-Month Amazon Prime trial available.
- You can view Amazon's Return Policy here.
- Additional Note:
- Please refer to the Forum Thread for additional discussion regarding this deal.
Community Notes
About the Poster
Deal Details
Community Notes
About the Poster
Amazon has GE 6-Outlet Wall Tap Power Outlet Extender (White; 56575) on sale for $6.39. Shipping is free w/ Prime or on $25+ orders.
Thanks to Community Member QueensGambit for finding this deal.
Key Features:
Thanks to Community Member QueensGambit for finding this deal.
Key Features:
- 6 Grounded outlets: Accepts 3 bulky AC adapters & 3 standard plugs
- Circuit Breaker: 15A circuit breaker shuts off power to the outlers in case of an overload or short circuit
- Reset Switch: Handy switch located on top of the unit
- UL Listed
- 90-Day Warranty
Editor's Notes
Written by powerfuldoppler | Staff- About this deal:
- This price is $1.60 less (20% savings) than the listed retail price.
- About this product:
- 4.7 out of 5 stars rating at Amazon based on over 39,850 customer reviews
- About this store:
- Don't have Amazon Prime? Students can get a free 6-Month Amazon Prime trial with free 2-day shipping, unlimited video streaming & more.
- If you're not a student, there's also a free 1-Month Amazon Prime trial available.
- You can view Amazon's Return Policy here.
- Additional Note:
- Please refer to the Forum Thread for additional discussion regarding this deal.
Community Voting
Deal Score
+54
Good Deal
Bad Deal
Price Intelligence
Model: GE 6-Outlet Grounded Wall Tap With Transformer/Resettable Circuit, White, 56575
Deal HistoryÂ
Deal History includes data from multiple reputable stores, such as Best Buy, Target, and Walmart. The lowest price among stores for a given day is selected as the "Sale Price".
Sale Price does not include sale prices at Amazon unless a deal was posted by a community member.
Sale Price does not include sale prices at Amazon unless a deal was posted by a community member.
Sale Price
- $NaN
- Today
Current Prices
Sort: Lowest to Highest | Last Updated 9/17/2025, 11:25 PM| Sold By | Sale Price |
|---|---|
 Amazon | $6.55 |
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Top Comments
Old wiring (outlets with only two prongs) did not have the third prong which is a redundant earth ground to help redirect current away from your body when there was a short in the wiring to a metal component you might be holding.
All circuits have a neutral in some capacity since otherwise you don't have a complete circuit and electricity will not flow. However in the circuits for light switches (even in more recent wiring after grounding was added), electricians would not run the neutral wire down from a light fixture to the light switch box since all you really need to do is interrupt the "hot" leg of the circuit to get the switching behavior. Modern smart switches that replace a light switch directly need some amount of current to always be flowing and to reliably do that, they need a neutral to complete their own circuit. There are some "smart" switches that don't need a circuit in the box, but technically those are always using more electricity by providing some small amount of current through the whole light fixture rather than just using the current they need by having their own complete circuit with a direct neutral connection.
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Old wiring (outlets with only two prongs) did not have the third prong which is a redundant earth ground to help redirect current away from your body when there was a short in the wiring to a metal component you might be holding.
All circuits have a neutral in some capacity since otherwise you don't have a complete circuit and electricity will not flow. However in the circuits for light switches (even in more recent wiring after grounding was added), electricians would not run the neutral wire down from a light fixture to the light switch box since all you really need to do is interrupt the "hot" leg of the circuit to get the switching behavior. Modern smart switches that replace a light switch directly need some amount of current to always be flowing and to reliably do that, they need a neutral to complete their own circuit. There are some "smart" switches that don't need a circuit in the box, but technically those are always using more electricity by providing some small amount of current through the whole light fixture rather than just using the current they need by having their own complete circuit with a direct neutral connection.
Old wiring (outlets with only two prongs) did not have the third prong which is a redundant earth ground to help redirect current away from your body when there was a short in the wiring to a metal component you might be holding.
All circuits have a neutral in some capacity since otherwise you don't have a complete circuit and electricity will not flow. However in the circuits for light switches (even in more recent wiring after grounding was added), electricians would not run the neutral wire down from a light fixture to the light switch box since all you really need to do is interrupt the "hot" leg of the circuit to get the switching behavior. Modern smart switches that replace a light switch directly need some amount of current to always be flowing and to reliably do that, they need a neutral to complete their own circuit. There are some "smart" switches that don't need a circuit in the box, but technically those are always using more electricity by providing some small amount of current through the whole light fixture rather than just using the current they need by having their own complete circuit with a direct neutral connection.
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As an FYI, GE wall taps are made under license of the GE name by Jasco Products (US headquarters) who then usually further subcontracts to another third party manufacturer in China to apply the GE label: https://byjasco.com/media/magewor...t_003
Just saying, most everything in outlet taps come from some no-name in China whether you want to pay for the extra GE label or not.
https://www.amazon.com/Extender-5...B08XZMJ342
https://www.amazon.com/Extender-5...B08XZMJ342
For the other product, they also put in the effort to test to applicable UL standards with a nationally recognized test lab (NRTL). UL listings aren't the only game in town for safety testing. Big name manufacturers often list with other NRTLs like ETL, TUV, and CSA for selling products (including medical devices like CT scanners) in the United States and internationally.
In order to maintain the listing with an NRTL, periodic audits are performed. This is to ensure quality control over time. I don't think the process for quality control of the two products would be night-and-day different.
https://www.amazon.com/Extender-5...B08XZMJ342
That one also doesn't have the screw mount for the outlet, so when unplugging plugs, it pulls out the whole unit and some folks hate that. Just pointing it out for the next person!
but basically, if i run both the microwave/toaster simultaneously, it's going to trip the 15A breaker out in the garage and this saves me a few steps when that happens. sure, i should put in a 20A breaker at some point. but ths was an easy quick fix that has served us well.
works reliably so far and wherever it's made, it's made just fine as far as i can see.
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For the other product, they also put in the effort to test to applicable UL standards with a nationally recognized test lab (NRTL). UL listings aren't the only game in town for safety testing. Big name manufacturers often list with other NRTLs like ETL, TUV, and CSA for selling products (including medical devices like CT scanners) in the United States and internationally.
In order to maintain the listing with an NRTL, periodic audits are performed. This is to ensure quality control over time. I don't think the process for quality control of the two products would be night-and-day different.
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