Lighted end shows power is on and cord is ready to use. 15 Amps, 125 Volts, 1875 Watts. Limited lifetime warranty. Southwire 50-ft 12 / 3-Prong Outdoor Sjtw Heavy Duty Lighted Extension Cord | 2548SWUSA1LREC
Product SKU:
5013205085_5013205085
UPC:
32886296253
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I'm an electrical engineer. My advice is neither wrong, nor dangerous, but you did misread it. If he is charging a 12V battery and delivering 40A to the battery, the absolute maximum POWER that is being delivered to the battery is about 600 watts. The battery charger itself is not 100% efficient, if we assume it's 50% efficient worst case (and that strikes me as particularly bad) then the maximum instantaneous dissipation is 1200W (half in the charger, and half delivered to the battery). This assumes 100% of the power is coming from the wall, which may not be the case, since the 40A is in "starter mode", and likely had stored some energy in the charger.
So the question is how much current will be pulled through the extension cord. If you dissipate 1200W at 120V, that's 10 amps going through the extension cord (assuming a power factor of 1, I hope this is mostly reasonable), which gives you pretty good margin on the15A limit. It's also worth pointing out that "starting mode" means inherently that you aren't running it for more than a few seconds. If 12 gauge wire is rated for 15A , that almost certainly means continuously (12 gauge NM Romex would typically be rated for 20A continuous)... So, even if you exceeded 15A for a few seconds, it's a non-issue since heat takes a while to build up. It's pretty common for 120V welders to exceed 15A when the arc is first being struck, and it generally doesn't matter, the breakers don't even notice. In other words, there's a huge amount of margin.
What's more, most 120V single phase house wiring in the US is 12 or 14 gauge which is rated for 20A or 15A respectively, and tied to a 20A or 15A breaker respectively. So, it'd be really odd to manufacture a battery charger that exceeds 15A over more than a second or two since many breakers would be unhappy with it.
Thanks OP.
I grabbed (6) of the 50's and (4) of the 25's for shop/field use.
My local store did not have any of the 100's, and when I tried to get any shipped, the price jumped up.
No big deal... I really didn't need any of the 100 footers anyway. 25's and 50's are cheaper to replace when a section gets cut rather than trashing out a whole 100' when a cut/break happens.
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Keep in mind SJTW cords get really stiff in cold weather. This is a great deal but I've noticed a night and day difference between this and an elastomer-wrapped cord in colder weather (elastomer will cost more though).
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Do you think this will be heavy duty enough to power a 1500W space heater outside? I know they say you shouldn't use extension cords with a space heater, but its in an "igloo" away from a power outlet so this is the only way to get power. Right now we are using two RV power cords that are very heavy duty but need multiple adapters to make this work.
Do you think this will be heavy duty enough to power a 1500W space heater outside? I know they say you shouldn't use extension cords with a space heater, but its in an "igloo" away from a power outlet so this is the only way to get power. Right now we are using two RV power cords that are very heavy duty but need multiple adapters to make this work.
this will power your space heater just fine. 12/3 is capable of 15amps. the reason they say not to use extension cords is people will plug a 2k watt space heater into a christmas grandma special extension cord and wonder why it burned down.
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So the question is how much current will be pulled through the extension cord. If you dissipate 1200W at 120V, that's 10 amps going through the extension cord (assuming a power factor of 1, I hope this is mostly reasonable), which gives you pretty good margin on the15A limit. It's also worth pointing out that "starting mode" means inherently that you aren't running it for more than a few seconds. If 12 gauge wire is rated for 15A , that almost certainly means continuously (12 gauge NM Romex would typically be rated for 20A continuous)... So, even if you exceeded 15A for a few seconds, it's a non-issue since heat takes a while to build up. It's pretty common for 120V welders to exceed 15A when the arc is first being struck, and it generally doesn't matter, the breakers don't even notice. In other words, there's a huge amount of margin.
What's more, most 120V single phase house wiring in the US is 12 or 14 gauge which is rated for 20A or 15A respectively, and tied to a 20A or 15A breaker respectively. So, it'd be really odd to manufacture a battery charger that exceeds 15A over more than a second or two since many breakers would be unhappy with it.
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If anybody knows where to get the 25 or 50 in North NJ, please let me know
edit: I got it in East Hanover.
thanks for all the help guys
I grabbed (6) of the 50's and (4) of the 25's for shop/field use.
My local store did not have any of the 100's, and when I tried to get any shipped, the price jumped up.
No big deal... I really didn't need any of the 100 footers anyway. 25's and 50's are cheaper to replace when a section gets cut rather than trashing out a whole 100' when a cut/break happens.
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https://brickseek.com/lowes-inven...5013205
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank dts0240
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what zip code are you finding the prices in HD?
full price in my HD area.
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