Lighted end shows power is on and cord is ready to use. 15 Amps, 125 Volts, 1875 Watts. Limited lifetime warranty. Southwire 50-ft 12 / 3-Prong Outdoor Sjtw Heavy Duty Lighted Extension Cord | 2548SWUSA1LREC
Product SKU:
5013205085_5013205085
UPC:
32886296253
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I'm an electrical engineer. My advice is neither wrong, nor dangerous, but you did misread it. If he is charging a 12V battery and delivering 40A to the battery, the absolute maximum POWER that is being delivered to the battery is about 600 watts. The battery charger itself is not 100% efficient, if we assume it's 50% efficient worst case (and that strikes me as particularly bad) then the maximum instantaneous dissipation is 1200W (half in the charger, and half delivered to the battery). This assumes 100% of the power is coming from the wall, which may not be the case, since the 40A is in "starter mode", and likely had stored some energy in the charger.
So the question is how much current will be pulled through the extension cord. If you dissipate 1200W at 120V, that's 10 amps going through the extension cord (assuming a power factor of 1, I hope this is mostly reasonable), which gives you pretty good margin on the15A limit. It's also worth pointing out that "starting mode" means inherently that you aren't running it for more than a few seconds. If 12 gauge wire is rated for 15A , that almost certainly means continuously (12 gauge NM Romex would typically be rated for 20A continuous)... So, even if you exceeded 15A for a few seconds, it's a non-issue since heat takes a while to build up. It's pretty common for 120V welders to exceed 15A when the arc is first being struck, and it generally doesn't matter, the breakers don't even notice. In other words, there's a huge amount of margin.
What's more, most 120V single phase house wiring in the US is 12 or 14 gauge which is rated for 20A or 15A respectively, and tied to a 20A or 15A breaker respectively. So, it'd be really odd to manufacture a battery charger that exceeds 15A over more than a second or two since many breakers would be unhappy with it.
thanks op. Was able to get last %0' at my local Lowes, all stores out of 100' and showed $99 if ordered on line. Did get another 50' one @ HD w/ free shipping as all local were out. Good deal and needed a new one plus got 2nd for my son.
Sale/clearance prices are good for 12-3 extension cords. The wires are a heavier gauge than what houses have run internally except for possibly the kitchen. Any power tool should not have a problem being run off one of these. The 100' cord will be heavy. The only downside is that they get really stiff in cold temperatures.
Sale/clearance prices are good for 12-3 extension cords. The wires are a heavier gauge than what houses have run internally except for possibly the kitchen. Any power tool should not have a problem being run off one of these. The 100' cord will be heavy. The only downside is that they get really stiff in cold temperatures.
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from AlexS2465
:
Why are you giving advice which is straight forward dangerous? The gauge of the wire is designed for current rating NOT power rating, so you can send higher than 120 voltage as long as it's below rated of insulation (could be up to 600V I think or 300V they will mark that on the wire itself) BUT you can NOT send higher than rated current since the wire will become heating element as higher current than what 12GA thickness of copper can handle goes through it and meets the internal resistance of the wire. There are different materials wire can be made so it handles higher than pure copper current but in this case if it's rated to 15A then stick to that as constant max, as far as short instance it should handle around 20A but I wouldn't run it at that rating for long.
For simple example imagine sending 20 people through tunnel that can only fit 15 wide and ask them how they feel about it.
He wasn't talking about running 15V/40A through the extension cable. He was answering the question "can you run 120V though the extension cord to a battery charger that supplies 40A at 15V?". So yes, you should be looking at power draw of the battery charger and seeing that you'd be fine because the current through the extension cord at 120V will be less than 15A.
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank hpmax
Quote
from AlexS2465
:
Why are you giving advice which is straight forward dangerous? The gauge of the wire is designed for current rating NOT power rating, so you can send higher than 120 voltage as long as it's below rated of insulation (could be up to 600V I think or 300V they will mark that on the wire itself) BUT you can NOT send higher than rated current since the wire will become heating element as higher current than what 12GA thickness of copper can handle goes through it and meets the internal resistance of the wire. There are different materials wire can be made so it handles higher than pure copper current but in this case if it's rated to 15A then stick to that as constant max, as far as short instance it should handle around 20A but I wouldn't run it at that rating for long.
For simple example imagine sending 20 people through tunnel that can only fit 15 wide and ask them how they feel about it.
I'm an electrical engineer. My advice is neither wrong, nor dangerous, but you did misread it. If he is charging a 12V battery and delivering 40A to the battery, the absolute maximum POWER that is being delivered to the battery is about 600 watts. The battery charger itself is not 100% efficient, if we assume it's 50% efficient worst case (and that strikes me as particularly bad) then the maximum instantaneous dissipation is 1200W (half in the charger, and half delivered to the battery). This assumes 100% of the power is coming from the wall, which may not be the case, since the 40A is in "starter mode", and likely had stored some energy in the charger.
So the question is how much current will be pulled through the extension cord. If you dissipate 1200W at 120V, that's 10 amps going through the extension cord (assuming a power factor of 1, I hope this is mostly reasonable), which gives you pretty good margin on the15A limit. It's also worth pointing out that "starting mode" means inherently that you aren't running it for more than a few seconds. If 12 gauge wire is rated for 15A , that almost certainly means continuously (12 gauge NM Romex would typically be rated for 20A continuous)... So, even if you exceeded 15A for a few seconds, it's a non-issue since heat takes a while to build up. It's pretty common for 120V welders to exceed 15A when the arc is first being struck, and it generally doesn't matter, the breakers don't even notice. In other words, there's a huge amount of margin.
What's more, most 120V single phase house wiring in the US is 12 or 14 gauge which is rated for 20A or 15A respectively, and tied to a 20A or 15A breaker respectively. So, it'd be really odd to manufacture a battery charger that exceeds 15A over more than a second or two since many breakers would be unhappy with it.
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So the question is how much current will be pulled through the extension cord. If you dissipate 1200W at 120V, that's 10 amps going through the extension cord (assuming a power factor of 1, I hope this is mostly reasonable), which gives you pretty good margin on the15A limit. It's also worth pointing out that "starting mode" means inherently that you aren't running it for more than a few seconds. If 12 gauge wire is rated for 15A , that almost certainly means continuously (12 gauge NM Romex would typically be rated for 20A continuous)... So, even if you exceeded 15A for a few seconds, it's a non-issue since heat takes a while to build up. It's pretty common for 120V welders to exceed 15A when the arc is first being struck, and it generally doesn't matter, the breakers don't even notice. In other words, there's a huge amount of margin.
What's more, most 120V single phase house wiring in the US is 12 or 14 gauge which is rated for 20A or 15A respectively, and tied to a 20A or 15A breaker respectively. So, it'd be really odd to manufacture a battery charger that exceeds 15A over more than a second or two since many breakers would be unhappy with it.
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank barreled
For simple example imagine sending 20 people through tunnel that can only fit 15 wide and ask them how they feel about it.
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank hpmax
For simple example imagine sending 20 people through tunnel that can only fit 15 wide and ask them how they feel about it.
I'm an electrical engineer. My advice is neither wrong, nor dangerous, but you did misread it. If he is charging a 12V battery and delivering 40A to the battery, the absolute maximum POWER that is being delivered to the battery is about 600 watts. The battery charger itself is not 100% efficient, if we assume it's 50% efficient worst case (and that strikes me as particularly bad) then the maximum instantaneous dissipation is 1200W (half in the charger, and half delivered to the battery). This assumes 100% of the power is coming from the wall, which may not be the case, since the 40A is in "starter mode", and likely had stored some energy in the charger.
So the question is how much current will be pulled through the extension cord. If you dissipate 1200W at 120V, that's 10 amps going through the extension cord (assuming a power factor of 1, I hope this is mostly reasonable), which gives you pretty good margin on the15A limit. It's also worth pointing out that "starting mode" means inherently that you aren't running it for more than a few seconds. If 12 gauge wire is rated for 15A , that almost certainly means continuously (12 gauge NM Romex would typically be rated for 20A continuous)... So, even if you exceeded 15A for a few seconds, it's a non-issue since heat takes a while to build up. It's pretty common for 120V welders to exceed 15A when the arc is first being struck, and it generally doesn't matter, the breakers don't even notice. In other words, there's a huge amount of margin.
What's more, most 120V single phase house wiring in the US is 12 or 14 gauge which is rated for 20A or 15A respectively, and tied to a 20A or 15A breaker respectively. So, it'd be really odd to manufacture a battery charger that exceeds 15A over more than a second or two since many breakers would be unhappy with it.
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