expired123098 posted Jan 16, 2023 08:17 PM
Item 1 of 5
Item 1 of 5
expired123098 posted Jan 16, 2023 08:17 PM
REI Co-op Cycles DRT 3.1 Bike
+ Free Store Pickup$1,679
$2,399
30% offREI
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Deal Details
REI has REI Co-op Cycles DRT 3.1 Bike (Bison) on sale for $1678.93. Select free store or curbside pickup where available; otherwise, shipping is available for a fee.
Thanks to Community Member 123098 for finding this deal.
Features:
Thanks to Community Member 123098 for finding this deal.
Features:
- Drivetrain has been upgraded to 1 x 12-speed compared to the previous 1 x 10-speed
- Air-sprung RockShox Recon Gold RL front suspension and RockShox Monarch R Solo Air rear both have external rebound adjust to keep the ride smooth and wheels glued to the trail
- Size XS, S bikes have 26 x 2.8 in. wheels and 120 mm of travel front and rear; size M–XL bikes have 27.5 x 2.8 in. wheels, 140 mm of front travel and 130 mm of rear travel
- 1 x 12-speed drivetrain with Shimano Deore rear derailleur eliminates the front derailleur to enable swift, streamlined shifting and reduce overall weight
- Shimano Deore Shadow+ clutch-style rear derailleur decreases chain slap and makes shifts more reliable
- Comes outfitted with a remote-control X-Fusion Manic dropper seatpost to let you adjust to terrain on the fly (XS–M frames allow 100 mm of travel; L, XL frames allow 150 mm)
- Tektro hydraulic disc brakes deliver reliable stopping power on- or off-road and in variable weather conditions
- Tires and rims are ready for tubeless setup
- Front and rear thru axles provide added rigidity
- Bicycle weight limit is 300 lbs. total, including rider plus all gear carried on the bike and on the rider's body
- Pedals not included
- Specs and images are subject to change
- 1 year of free adjustments
- In-store bike assembly
- Pickup in store or curbside
- Bike experts available at 170+ bike shops
Editor's Notes
Written by qwikwit | Staff- About this deal:
- This REI Co-op Cycles DRT 3.1 Bike is priced $720.07 (30% savings) from the list price.
- REI Co-Op membership details here.
- Refer to the forum thread for additional details and discussion of this bike.
- About this store:
- Details of REI's return policy here. -Corwin
Community Notes
About the Poster
Deal Details
Community Notes
About the Poster
REI has REI Co-op Cycles DRT 3.1 Bike (Bison) on sale for $1678.93. Select free store or curbside pickup where available; otherwise, shipping is available for a fee.
Thanks to Community Member 123098 for finding this deal.
Features:
Thanks to Community Member 123098 for finding this deal.
Features:
- Drivetrain has been upgraded to 1 x 12-speed compared to the previous 1 x 10-speed
- Air-sprung RockShox Recon Gold RL front suspension and RockShox Monarch R Solo Air rear both have external rebound adjust to keep the ride smooth and wheels glued to the trail
- Size XS, S bikes have 26 x 2.8 in. wheels and 120 mm of travel front and rear; size M–XL bikes have 27.5 x 2.8 in. wheels, 140 mm of front travel and 130 mm of rear travel
- 1 x 12-speed drivetrain with Shimano Deore rear derailleur eliminates the front derailleur to enable swift, streamlined shifting and reduce overall weight
- Shimano Deore Shadow+ clutch-style rear derailleur decreases chain slap and makes shifts more reliable
- Comes outfitted with a remote-control X-Fusion Manic dropper seatpost to let you adjust to terrain on the fly (XS–M frames allow 100 mm of travel; L, XL frames allow 150 mm)
- Tektro hydraulic disc brakes deliver reliable stopping power on- or off-road and in variable weather conditions
- Tires and rims are ready for tubeless setup
- Front and rear thru axles provide added rigidity
- Bicycle weight limit is 300 lbs. total, including rider plus all gear carried on the bike and on the rider's body
- Pedals not included
- Specs and images are subject to change
- 1 year of free adjustments
- In-store bike assembly
- Pickup in store or curbside
- Bike experts available at 170+ bike shops
Editor's Notes
Written by qwikwit | Staff- About this deal:
- This REI Co-op Cycles DRT 3.1 Bike is priced $720.07 (30% savings) from the list price.
- REI Co-Op membership details here.
- Refer to the forum thread for additional details and discussion of this bike.
- About this store:
- Details of REI's return policy here. -Corwin
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Top Comments
I've owned more than a couple internally routed bikes, and if you like to maintain them on the regular, it is a huge PITA to do it yourself, or a huge time-sink that bike shops expect (rightfully) to be paid for if you don't do the maintenance yourself.
For example, this bike is decent overall, but has mediocre brakes...these Tektro OEM oriented options, unlike the TRP "more serious" brakes ther same company makes that are typically excellent, are a big hit and miss, not only but including personal experience.
I had them on a 2018 Trek Stache 5 29+ HT, and worked fine. Same model on a '19 Marin San Quentin 2, were almost unusable for the character of the bike and the steep terrain I ride, even after meticulously re-bleeding them twice, making sure pads & rotors were good etc. An issue I never had with the virtually as cheap Shimano MT200 series (which are easier to bleed also).
Do you know which tools you need to upgrade your externally routed brakes ontop of a 5mm hex wrench for the calipers and 5 or 4mm for the lever clamp? (ok maybe a 3mm for the grips & dropper lever too): just something to cut zip ties with...most sets are available pre-bled and otherwise plug-n-play.
To upgrade internally routed brakes? You need to cut the stupid hose in most cases, so you need a new barb and a new compression olive and a bleeding kit to re-fill the fluid, and fluid to do the above, at the minimum...
Depending on how lucky you are and how user-friendly the frame is (expensive frames are internally routed with permanent hoses and you just push from one and to the other, but...that is not typical for sub 3-4K bikes), you might also need a fishing kit of shorts, or if a hose is already there, you might get away McGaivering it with pulling the old hose with a piece of wire or thread attached and pulling the new the opposite way etc, but it is not always possible or easy to achieve...And all of these to do what? Hide 2ft/60cm tops of a 160mm+ hose? Because it comes back out by the BB, at least with full-suspension bikes...PITA.
And when the time comes for the next bike, the hose might need to be cut again, and then gradually becomes too short and you need a new hose, only to realize that Shimano/Sram/Magura etc, ask $40-50 (rear shimano banjo hoses were like $70-90 during the pandemic peaks) for it and it almost makes more sense to have dedicated hoses for every bike vs. removing them...
There was a time when companies were wise to this, with pretty smart solutions like the Canyon Sender 6.0 that had a downtube protector that was doubling as concealing the hoses/cables and giving you the internally routed look without the hassle, but...marketing won.
Road bikes with "fully integrated" hoses that nearly never daylight and go through the stem & bars, are even worse, especially if you end up needing a slightly different fit that is more than few milimeters on your brand new bike, in which case you are out $100s in parts and hoses and time...even experienced bike shops will need hours to make the "swap".
Externally routed hoses are fine.
Now, on alternatives: yes, the T7 is perhaps a bit better than this (I am biased, as a T8 owner [instagram.com]), but not because of internal routing (just on the downtube, it comes out @ the BB, as with most bikes), but it is also important to note that the T7 is only 29" for every size after M. I prefer 29ers, but not everyone does.
The Siskiu D is not better, IMHO, but my main contention is the mixed wheel standards, with front being 15x100 (non-boost) and rear being 12x148 (boost). You cannot get a new 15x100 fork upgrade even if you wanted to, as all serious forks have switched to 15x110 (aka 15mm Boost): this means that you will NEED a new front wheel, or at a minimum relacing the wheel on a new hub, and this is a serious $ ontop that is not needed. Polygon got a deal on overstocked forks & hubs, and pushes them out on Siskiu Ds...
Sorry for the wall-o-text. I am trying to be helpful, just cannot be laconic doing so.
Although I agree that you should tread carefully money-wise, the "first bike should be a HT" rhymes with that only by necessity: a HT with this level of components, which for some might be the minimum "safe" choice for riding even "blue" trails in my neighborhood, won't be cheap...cheaper? Maybe, but not cheap, we still go to 4-figures.
Full suspension bikes are far, FAR easier to learn on, as are far more forgiving. The whole "tough-love" route to learn, is not one I would recommend, again, unless $ is an issue, but still, it is different to say "get a cheap MTB to figure out you like it first", than saying "get a HT" per se. In the same vein as I'd never recommend someone teaching his kiddo to drive in a "MT only transmission car" or "don't get them ABS, they need to modulate their brakes themselves". These are fun challenges that were the norm before, but doesn't need to be today. It is safer to learn the basics without the need to worry about stalling the engine, or locking your wheels because you were out of line on a tight turn, aka when it is the most important to have tech assisting you and covering up for your inexperience. Once you are up for it, sure, turn off the nannies and go for it, but this is not what teenagers should be thinking about when really green.
I am a person who went full circle, from short travel HTs (because long travel did not exist tbh) to long travel HTs, to 150/140 FS "AM" MTB to now finding more fun to run easy trails on a rigid gravel bike (many modern "gravel" bikes are far more capable than mainsteam MTBs were in the 90s, or most big-box "MTBs" are still) or a SS HT, and harder trails on a 130/120 (waiting delivery on my Rocky Mountain Element C). I am 41, so really high-speeds in combination with big jumps & drops are not a thing I pursue anymore, but I can appreciate.
Yes, a Ripmo is not an easy pill to swallow but for very, very few, but the flip of this coin is that I cannot think of many other bikes I wish I had available to let a friend borrow going down his first tecky blue or black trail with me, because it would make it much, much easier and enjoyable. If you find blues and blacks "boring", then sure, challenge yourself seeking the perfect line on a HT that will bite you harder if you f-up and make fun of your friends being slower on FSs, but why setup yourself for rough times if you don't have to?
Even this cheap FS will be vastly easier for inexperienced riders not to be scared on as they are learning their limits and improving upon their skills. My 2c.
final edit & PSA: this and most >$1000 mtbs come with air sprung suspension. The biggest benefit is that you can add or remove air from your shock and fork to tune their springs to your weight. You need a special shock pump to do this (pressurs go up to 2xx region for the shock). You cannot use your tire track pump for this. Don't leave the bike shop without one, unless you already have one, have one in the mail or someone to reliably lend you theirs as long as you need it, and later again. $20-30 versions work fine, $50 digital versions are easier to use but not needed.
EDIT - It's actually the Rift Zone 1 that's $1400 (or less), not the 3.
53 Comments
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EDIT - It's actually the Rift Zone 1 that's $1400 (or less), not the 3.
XS: Maxxis Recon 26 x 2.8 in.
S: Maxxis Recon 26 x 2.8 in.
M: Maxxis Recon 27.5 x 2.8 in.
L: Maxxis Recon 27.5 x 2.8 in.
XL: Maxxis Recon 27.5 x 2.8 in.
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there are so many people dumping bikes on FB, i would check their first.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank Dimitris
I've owned more than a couple internally routed bikes, and if you like to maintain them on the regular, it is a huge PITA to do it yourself, or a huge time-sink that bike shops expect (rightfully) to be paid for if you don't do the maintenance yourself.
For example, this bike is decent overall, but has mediocre brakes...these Tektro OEM oriented options, unlike the TRP "more serious" brakes ther same company makes that are typically excellent, are a big hit and miss, not only but including personal experience.
I had them on a 2018 Trek Stache 5 29+ HT, and worked fine. Same model on a '19 Marin San Quentin 2, were almost unusable for the character of the bike and the steep terrain I ride, even after meticulously re-bleeding them twice, making sure pads & rotors were good etc. An issue I never had with the virtually as cheap Shimano MT200 series (which are easier to bleed also).
Do you know which tools you need to upgrade your externally routed brakes ontop of a 5mm hex wrench for the calipers and 5 or 4mm for the lever clamp? (ok maybe a 3mm for the grips & dropper lever too): just something to cut zip ties with...most sets are available pre-bled and otherwise plug-n-play.
To upgrade internally routed brakes? You need to cut the stupid hose in most cases, so you need a new barb and a new compression olive and a bleeding kit to re-fill the fluid, and fluid to do the above, at the minimum...
Depending on how lucky you are and how user-friendly the frame is (expensive frames are internally routed with permanent hoses and you just push from one and to the other, but...that is not typical for sub 3-4K bikes), you might also need a fishing kit of shorts, or if a hose is already there, you might get away McGaivering it with pulling the old hose with a piece of wire or thread attached and pulling the new the opposite way etc, but it is not always possible or easy to achieve...And all of these to do what? Hide 2ft/60cm tops of a 160mm+ hose? Because it comes back out by the BB, at least with full-suspension bikes...PITA.
And when the time comes for the next bike, the hose might need to be cut again, and then gradually becomes too short and you need a new hose, only to realize that Shimano/Sram/Magura etc, ask $40-50 (rear shimano banjo hoses were like $70-90 during the pandemic peaks) for it and it almost makes more sense to have dedicated hoses for every bike vs. removing them...
There was a time when companies were wise to this, with pretty smart solutions like the Canyon Sender 6.0 that had a downtube protector that was doubling as concealing the hoses/cables and giving you the internally routed look without the hassle, but...marketing won.
Road bikes with "fully integrated" hoses that nearly never daylight and go through the stem & bars, are even worse, especially if you end up needing a slightly different fit that is more than few milimeters on your brand new bike, in which case you are out $100s in parts and hoses and time...even experienced bike shops will need hours to make the "swap".
Externally routed hoses are fine.
Now, on alternatives: yes, the T7 is perhaps a bit better than this (I am biased, as a T8 owner [instagram.com]), but not because of internal routing (just on the downtube, it comes out @ the BB, as with most bikes), but it is also important to note that the T7 is only 29" for every size after M. I prefer 29ers, but not everyone does.
The Siskiu D is not better, IMHO, but my main contention is the mixed wheel standards, with front being 15x100 (non-boost) and rear being 12x148 (boost). You cannot get a new 15x100 fork upgrade even if you wanted to, as all serious forks have switched to 15x110 (aka 15mm Boost): this means that you will NEED a new front wheel, or at a minimum relacing the wheel on a new hub, and this is a serious $ ontop that is not needed. Polygon got a deal on overstocked forks & hubs, and pushes them out on Siskiu Ds...
Sorry for the wall-o-text. I am trying to be helpful, just cannot be laconic doing so.
there are so many people dumping bikes on FB, i would check their first.
Full suspension bikes are far, FAR easier to learn on, as are far more forgiving. The whole "tough-love" route to learn, is not one I would recommend, again, unless $ is an issue, but still, it is different to say "get a cheap MTB to figure out you like it first", than saying "get a HT" per se. In the same vein as I'd never recommend someone teaching his kiddo to drive in a "MT only transmission car" or "don't get them ABS, they need to modulate their brakes themselves". These are fun challenges that were the norm before, but doesn't need to be today. It is safer to learn the basics without the need to worry about stalling the engine, or locking your wheels because you were out of line on a tight turn, aka when it is the most important to have tech assisting you and covering up for your inexperience. Once you are up for it, sure, turn off the nannies and go for it, but this is not what teenagers should be thinking about when really green.
I am a person who went full circle, from short travel HTs (because long travel did not exist tbh) to long travel HTs, to 150/140 FS "AM" MTB to now finding more fun to run easy trails on a rigid gravel bike (many modern "gravel" bikes are far more capable than mainsteam MTBs were in the 90s, or most big-box "MTBs" are still) or a SS HT, and harder trails on a 130/120 (waiting delivery on my Rocky Mountain Element C). I am 41, so really high-speeds in combination with big jumps & drops are not a thing I pursue anymore, but I can appreciate.
Yes, a Ripmo is not an easy pill to swallow but for very, very few, but the flip of this coin is that I cannot think of many other bikes I wish I had available to let a friend borrow going down his first tecky blue or black trail with me, because it would make it much, much easier and enjoyable. If you find blues and blacks "boring", then sure, challenge yourself seeking the perfect line on a HT that will bite you harder if you f-up and make fun of your friends being slower on FSs, but why setup yourself for rough times if you don't have to?
Even this cheap FS will be vastly easier for inexperienced riders not to be scared on as they are learning their limits and improving upon their skills. My 2c.
final edit & PSA: this and most >$1000 mtbs come with air sprung suspension. The biggest benefit is that you can add or remove air from your shock and fork to tune their springs to your weight. You need a special shock pump to do this (pressurs go up to 2xx region for the shock). You cannot use your tire track pump for this. Don't leave the bike shop without one, unless you already have one, have one in the mail or someone to reliably lend you theirs as long as you need it, and later again. $20-30 versions work fine, $50 digital versions are easier to use but not needed.
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