Direct Tools Factory Outlet has
Ridgid 18V Octane Brushless 1/2" High Torque Impact Wrench (Factory Blemished, Tool Only) on sale for
$119.99.
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Features: - Brushless Motor Technology delivers up to 50% more runtime, more power, and longer motor life
- 6-Mode setting provides adjustable power and speed for the most demanding jobs and precision work
- 3 auto tightening modes provide the user with adjustable speed and power to prevent overtightening
- Maximum torque output of 1,500 ft./lbs. of breakaway torque and 1,100 ft./lbs. of fastening torque for heavy-duty applications
- 1/2 in. friction ring anvil is compatible with popular impact-rated sockets
- LED Light for improved visibility on the jobsite
- Die-cast gear box for increased durability and professional quality
Top Comments
1. The primary use is to remove fasteners, not tighten them.
2. For tightening fasteners, do yourself a favor, look up the proper torque spec and method, then use a torque wrench.
SUBCOMPACT: I use the subcompact wrenches 60-70% of the time. They are lighter and easier to fit in tight spaces. I used to carry the 1/2" subcompact with 2Ah battery to change tires and help stranded motorists when off-roading. It worked fine, since I properly torque my lug nuts. However, It almost met its match, a stranded Hyundai Elantra. Obviously, the last idiot at the tire shop torqued the lug nuts using an air impact wrench. It probably would have done fine if I used an Octane or larger battery. Now I carry my mid-torque, regular size impact wrench for off-roading and helping stranded motorists.
The next question people often ask is whether they should get the 3/8" or 1/2" subcompact. For most people, the 3/8" will do fine. If you're a mechanic, I recommend both. Somebody condescendingly stated that you could just use an adapter. Well that defeats the purpose of a subcompact, since the adapter makes it longer. Also, the largest 3/8" impact socket I have is 17mm. Some brake & suspension bolts in tight places are 19mm, so that requires me to use the 1/2" subcompact. If you're just doing lug nuts, you could use an adapter, but realize that some of the breakaway torque power is lost through the adapter(s).
MID-TORQUE: This will do almost everything you need as a home mechanic, like 90-95%. It's big, so you can't get in tight spaces, but the torque is sufficient for most home mechanic applications. I have never had a problem removing most axle nuts or harmonic balancer pulley bolts. It will remove Honda crank bolts if you have the right battery, fully charged. It is also much heavier than the subcompacts.
HIGH-TORQUE: This is a beast! For the 5-10% jobs when the mid-torque just won't cut it, this thing removes it (or breaks it). We are talking Honda crank bolts and really rusted axle nuts. Also, I have helped large trucks, buses, and tractor trailers change their tires. Beware, it is also very heavy. It will break your wrist if you don't properly brace it and don't know what you are doing.
OTHER THOUGHTS: Constantly maxing out a tool will cause it to wear faster. When I use the subcompacts to remove lug nuts, they hammer more, causing more wear and tear on the tool. When I use the mid-torque or high-torque, I can silently hear them laughing at the lug nuts and spin them off after 1 or 2 hammers.
The Ridgid site for this tool says it's LSA eligible.
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1. The primary use is to remove fasteners, not tighten them.
2. For tightening fasteners, do yourself a favor, look up the proper torque spec and method, then use a torque wrench.
If anyone can find a deal on the 2.0 AH batteries, please let me know. I have been looking for the old style batteries for a while, without success.
Thanks!
The size and weight of the very capable mid-torques is often preferred over these behemoths.
This model beats the similar Milwaukee Fuel, it's a beast. The new version is slightly weaker, but no slouch. Both are probably overkill unless you are working on bulldozers, tractors, and semi trucks.
The size and weight of the very capable mid-torques is often preferred over these behemoths.
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I'd never tighten anything with this lol.
Sure, a beast like this or even a decent mid torque would obviate the need for the breaker & cheater, but for those few isolated situations when I need them, it's not worth the expense for me. Plus I only needed the breaker & cheater for high torque fasteners that were rusted and seized and hadn't been removed in years, and most of those have already been removed, cleaned up and refastened to proper torque, and will probably come off next time if necessary with my Stubby. That said, if I ever come across a decent used mid torque for a really good price, or decide to go junkyard salvaging, I might grab one. Just not a priority right now.
1. The primary use is to remove fasteners, not tighten them.
2. For tightening fasteners, do yourself a favor, look up the proper torque spec and method, then use a torque wrench.
Plus, there are certain high-torque fasteners where I think it's ok to wail on them when reinstalling, like an axle or transmission shaft nut, or a crankshaft pulley bolt, at least with a lower torque impact that only goes up to 250-300ft-lb, because it's often really hard to keep the axle or shaft from turning when using a torque wrench.
Sure, a beast like this or even a decent mid torque would obviate the need for the breaker & cheater, but for those few isolated situations when I need them, it's not worth the expense for me. Plus I only needed the breaker & cheater for high torque fasteners that were rusted and seized and hadn't been removed in years, and most of those have already been removed, cleaned up and refastened to proper torque, and will probably come off next time if necessary with my Stubby. That said, if I ever come across a decent used mid torque for a really good price, or decide to go junkyard salvaging, I might grab one. Just not a priority right now.
Because it's just as powerful but fits better in tighter spaces due to the shorter sockets, which also come in smaller sizes if you need them. I have a 3/8" Milwaukee version of this and love it. In fact it's probably the most popular impact wrench made today.
Unless your impact wrench comes with a setting that backs off when resistance is met, typically 10-20ft-lb, which both saves time and avoids overtorqueing and cross-threading.
Plus, there are certain high-torque fasteners where I think it's ok to wail on them when reinstalling, like an axle or transmission shaft nut, or a crankshaft pulley bolt, at least with a lower torque impact that only goes up to 250-300ft-lb, because it's often really hard to keep the axle or shaft from turning when using a torque wrench.
Btw, in some case a 3/8" impact wrench is actually slightly more powerful than a 1/2":
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