Half off the price of new.
- Simplified, rugged design with 1.8" display that's crisp and easy to read in sunlight or low-light conditions
- Get training guidance by syncing structured indoor or outdoor workouts to your device from the Garmin Connect app or other apps, including TrainingPeaks and TrainerRoad
- Improve your fitness with dynamic performance insights such as VO2 max and heart rate (when paired with a compatible heart rate monitor), and manage your efforts during tough ascents with the ClimbPro feature
- Know where you've been, where you're headed and how to get back to start with turn prompts and a breadcrumb map
- Cycling awareness features give loved ones peace of mind; get incident detection and assistance — which both send your real-time location to emergency contacts (when paired with a compatible heart rate monitor)
- Know how far, fast, hard and high you've ridden with data from GPS, GLONASS and Galileo satellites and an altimeter
- Track jump count, jump distance and hang time with mountain bike dynamics
- Train when and where you want, thanks to compatibility with Tacx indoor trainers (coming soon)
- Battery life (Battery life may vary depending on usage): up to 12 hours
https://home.woot.com/offers/garm...t_wp_0_111
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank twostepopper
The normal Renewed/Refurbished price is $119.99.
Released in June 2020.. this is a totally capable bike computer from a reputable company. Just don't feel like you have to jump on this to save $20.
The Wahoo Element Bolt was just listed for $150 on here brand new as well.
Limited-time deal: Wahoo ELEMNT BOLT V1 GPS Cycling/Bike Computer https://a.co/d/fIvT19B
or if you're looking to go cheaper Magene makes some decent quality budget friendly products. Like this computer at $50.
Magene C406 Bike Computer with Holder, Waterproof GPS Cycling Computer, Wireless Smart Road Bicycle Monitor, 2.5 Inch LCD Screen https://a.co/d/j6SVguL
The normal Renewed/Refurbished price is $119.99.
Released in June 2020.. this is a totally capable bike computer from a reputable company. Just don't feel like you have to jump on this to save $20.
The Wahoo Element Bolt was just listed for $150 on here brand new as well.
Limited-time deal: Wahoo ELEMNT BOLT V1 GPS Cycling/Bike Computer https://a.co/d/fIvT19B
or if you're looking to go cheaper Magene makes some decent quality budget friendly products. Like this computer at $50.
Magene C406 Bike Computer with Holder, Waterproof GPS Cycling Computer, Wireless Smart Road Bicycle Monitor, 2.5 Inch LCD Screen https://a.co/d/j6SVguL
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank chi
https://bikecloset.com/product/ga...f6EALw_wcB
https://bikecloset.com/product/ga...f6EALw_wcB [bikecloset.com]
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank Dimitris
Yes, you need a separate power meter, there is no head unit that estimates power in real time without one. Some services, like Strava, might give you a avg. power estimate for a section after you input your weight and bike's weight etc, but of course it is just an estimate and it is based on after-the-fact results.
Power meters are expensive (by comparison to budget devices), even tho radically (like 5-10-fold) cheaper from a decade ago.
Your best bet for a "cheap" yet reliable PM, depends on the time of year (cause discounts not year round) and crankset. For Shimano, those are left-crank only PMs, the likes of Stages & 4iiii. $300ish-450ish should get it. Price varies between "supplying your own crank arm for factory install" to getting a new crankarm from them with the PM already "drilled & mounted" on. Some crank-arms are very expensive in themselves, so pricing varies above what I wrote if you are into Dura-Ace/XTR etc. I have a GRX 810 4iiii and I am happy with it. Specific arm-lenghts and specific crank-arm models are on sale on Chain Reaction Cycles / Wiggle every-now-and-then. Huge stealth secret is that Shimano Hollowtek II "left" crank-arms are all interchangable: nothing stops you from mounting a 170mm long left GRX crank arm or a 105 "road" crank-arm with a PM (or without) on your MTB that uses SLX or Deore and vice versa. Just keep the lenght the same and supress your OCD.
For Sram, their in-house quark spider PMs are ok in price. 450ish on the low-end still. Benefits are that you get dual-sided PM and that the spider itself is better protected than either crank-arm or pedal based PMs.
Pedal based PMs are versatile from the perspective of moving around with minimal hassle, but will set you back some $600+. Best bang for buck seem to be the Favero Assioma line. Really well respected. If you want SPD vs. Look/SPD-SL, maybe look into Garmin's own "rally".
Finally, there are other PM manufacturers that make spiders for Sram, Shimano, Raceface etc. For my MTB, I have a AliExpress bought PM (XCADEY X-POWER S, ~$270) that seems to work fine. I cannot independen$ly test it for accuracy, but I don't care enough to do so).
In theory, the sensors (heart, cadence, power etc) should be what drives the accuracy of your data. The head unit is just a screen to display it on, and a passive GPS/Time tracker to store and tie the data together. So the data dump from the external sensors being stored in a $30 chinesium computer should be the same with what is stored in a $500 Garmin or Wahoo one.
Sad that garmin doesn't allow you to assign different bikes to different configurations. It's a lot of work if you have say.. a road bike.. and a mountain bike. Having to go through your rides and assign different hardware to each ride :/
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Yes, you need a separate power meter, there is no head unit that estimates power in real time without one. Some services, like Strava, might give you a avg. power estimate for a section after you input your weight and bike's weight etc, but of course it is just an estimate and it is based on after-the-fact results.
Power meters are expensive (by comparison to budget devices), even tho radically (like 5-10-fold) cheaper from a decade ago.
Your best bet for a "cheap" yet reliable PM, depends on the time of year and crankset. For Shimano, those are left-crank only PMs, the likes of Stages & 4iiii. $300ish-450ish should get it. Price varies between "supplying your own crank arm for factory install" to getting a new crankarm from them with the PM already "drilled & mounted" on. Some crank-arms are very expensive in themselves, so pricing varies above what I wrote if you are into Dura-Ace/XTR etc. I have a GRX 810 4iiii and I am happy with it. Specific arm-lenghts and specific crank-arm models are on sale on Chain Reaction Cycles / Wiggle every-now-and-then. Huge stealth secret is that Shimano Hollowtek II "left" crank-arms are all interchangable: nothing stops you from mounting a 170mm long left GRX crank arm or a 105 "road" crank-arm with a PM (or without) on your MTB that uses SLX or Deore and vice versa. Just keep the lenght the same and supress your OCD.
For Sram, their in-house quark spider PMs are ok in price. 450ish on the low-end still. Benefits are that you get dual-sided PM and that the spider itself is better protected than either crank-arm or pedal based PMs.
Pedal based PMs are versatile from the perspective of moving around with minimal hassle, but will set you back some $600+. Best bang for buck seem to be the Favero Assioma line. Really well respected. If you want SPD vs. Look/SPD-SL, maybe look into Garmin's own "rally".
Finally, there are other PM manufacturers that make spiders for Sram, Shimano, Raceface etc. For my MTB, I have a AliExpress bought PM (XCADEY X-POWER S, ~$270) that seems to work fine. I cannot independen$ly test it for accuracy, but I don't care enough to do so).
In theory, the sensors (heart, cadence, power etc) should be what drives the accuracy of your data. The head unit is just a screen to display it on, and a passive GPS/Time tracker to store and tie the data together. So the data dump from the external sensors being stored in a $30 chinesium computer should be the same with what is stored in a $500 Garmin or Wahoo one.
So if I can do over again I would find a good old bike that fits you with a good 130mm+ fork and 27.5" or 29" wheels to start with and upgrade the drive. Next I would add a dropper post. After this if you still find yourself biking regularly, I would sell the upgraded bike (for profit if you are lucky) and get a new one to my liking.
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