expired Posted by leonz • Apr 22, 2023
Apr 22, 2023 2:51 PM
Item 1 of 5
Item 1 of 5
expired Posted by leonz • Apr 22, 2023
Apr 22, 2023 2:51 PM
Canon Refurbished Lenses & Cameras: EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM $199, EOS RP Body
& More + Free Shipping$599
$900
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RF 16mm f/2.8 STM @ $179.00 --- Great compact prime for RF system, very fair price. If you have zooms that are 24+, then you'll appreciate the little bit of extra width w/ solid quality this gives at a bargain price.
RF 100-400mm f/5.6-8 IS USM @ $399.00 --- Normally on sale for $550. Very quick to focus, very quiet, very stabilized lens with 5.5 stops of IS. Combine that with an IBIS-capable body, it's pretty good at this price point....even when factoring the horrible f/8 aperture. Pair this with an APS-C body (like the R7 w/ IBIS), and you'll get effective 640mm reach on a budget. A similar competitor is the Sigma 150-600mm, which goes on sale once or twice a year a $700.
EOS RP @ $599.00 --- I'm hesitant to suggest this, unless price is your only consideration. The R10 is $900-ish, the R8 replacement to the RP is $1500 and utterly blows this camera out of the water. But if max price is your only concern and you must have mirrorless, then it's not a terrible option. It was $600 in the 2022 holiday sale (w/ camera sling bag + grip extension), but the R8 wasn't announced yet. I personally feel this should be $100-200 cheaper given how many options are out there now.
EF 11-24mm f/4L USM @ $1699.00 --- Ok, this is NOT a budget option. But this is a pro-tier super-ultra-wide that has precious little distortion. If you do indoors work like architectural or real estate, this is your secret weapon. Your ace up your sleeve. You'll make this $1700 back in no time. Few wide lenses come close to this quality, and not really at this price point.
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$220 RF 24-105mm (https://www.usa.canon.c
$400 RF 100-400mm (https://www.usa.canon.c
$120 RF 50mm/1.8 -- nifty fifty (https://www.usa.canon.c
$600 RP Body (https://www.usa.canon.c
You'll get a very inexpensive (if slightly aging) full-frame body that's still regarded as pretty good.
The cons: you're giving up faster/stickier AF, faster burst rates, better video, and better low-light performance compared to the newer R8 @ $1500 (same form factor, full-frame). But at $900 less, only you can determine if any of that is a deal-breaker.
And in the future, you can upgrade to the R8 and all of the above lenses will be compatible. You can keep the RP body, or sell it. I don't have a crystal ball, but you may get $400-500 for it. Offsetting the price of the (then discounted?) R8....and you've used a nice RP all this time for a mere $100-200 cost. You can't rent a camera body for $50/year.
And you'll have two silent, quick focusing lenses -- the long of which uses Canon's nano-USM motor system. They're not "fast" optically at f/7.1 and f/8, but the aggressive on-lens IS helps eliminate handheld shake. Covering the range of 24mm to 400mm (same reach as buying 15mm-250mm labeled lenses for APS-C).
You'll have immense flexibility with these two lenses, as it covers everything from a fairly wide to telephoto. The 24-105 isn't too heavy to daily carry.
For anything needing better optical performance, you have a 50mm/1.8 (actual 50mm on a full frame, not a 50mm on a APS-C which is more like 80mm).
As time goes on, you can get a Canon EF-to-RF adapter and use any of the many awesome EF full-frame lenses that have been released since 1987, from Canon and countless other vendors. There are some real bargains and real amazing lenses to be had out there, and they'll be almost always 100% compatible with this setup.
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Other things you'll need:
1-2x additional batteries (only buy first-party canon). The RP tends to be a battery hog.
Third-party lens hood (Vello) for each lens. I strongly recommend against UV/protection filters, as they give serious ghosting/reflections from external light sources. Even expensive $70+ multicoated B+W filters are susceptible to it -- I know this personally, I've sunk more money into these pieces of glass just to ruin the image from the top tier lens I just bought. A lens hood is plenty of protection for normal use.
Camera bag of some sort (lowepro or ruggard are considered good brands, but it's highly personal).
At least 2x memory cards (about $30-40 for a v60 128gb SD, buy name-brands like Sandisk, Sony, Kingston, ProGrade, etc).
I'd also argue to get a better neckstrap, but that's a highly personal choice. Popular options are BlackRapid, Peak Design, ThinkTank, and Domke.
*Update, called Canon and they're issuing a refund. Super easy process and they are always very helpful and friendly.
187 Comments
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It's a delightfully thin and light pancake lens, which pairs well with your lightweight T7i.
That 17-85 lens you mentioned is an....average kit lens. It's optically slow and not that sharp. The best part about it is that it's relatively lightweight and inexpensive.
It's a delightfully thin and light pancake lens, which pairs well with your lightweight T7i.
That 17-85 lens you mentioned is an....average kit lens. It's optically slow and not that sharp. The best part about it is that it's relatively lightweight and inexpensive.
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$220 RF 24-105mm (https://www.usa.canon.c
$400 RF 100-400mm (https://www.usa.canon.c
$120 RF 50mm/1.8 -- nifty fifty (https://www.usa.canon.c
$600 RP Body (https://www.usa.canon.c
You'll get a very inexpensive (if slightly aging) full-frame body that's still regarded as pretty good.
The cons: you're giving up faster/stickier AF, faster burst rates, better video, and better low-light performance compared to the newer R8 @ $1500 (same form factor, full-frame). But at $900 less, only you can determine if any of that is a deal-breaker.
And you'll ahve two ultra silent, quick focusing lenses -- the long of which uses Canon's nano-USM motor system. They're not "fast" optically at f/7.1 and f/8, but the aggressive on-lens IS helps eliminate handheld shake. Covering the range of 24mm to 400mm (same reach as buying 15mm-250mm labeled lenses for APS-C).
You'll have immense flexibility with these two lenses, as it covers everything from a fairly wide to telephoto. The 24-105 isn't too heavy to daily carry.
For anything needing better optical performance, you have a 50mm/1.8 (actual 50mm on a full frame, not a 50mm on a APS-C which is more like 80mm).
As time goes on, you can get a Canon EF-to-RF adapter and use any of the many awesome EF full-frame lenses that have been released since 1987, from Canon and countless other vendors. There are some real bargains and real amazing lenses to be had out there, and they'll be almost always 100% compatible with this setup.
[avoid EF-S and M lenses, as the former will incur a 1.6x crop factor w/ severe loss of resolution and the latter is entirely incompatible]
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Other things you'll need:
1-2x additional batteries (only buy first-party canon). The RP tends to be a battery hog.
Some sort of UV/protection filter for each lens.
Third-party lens hood (Vello) for each lens.
Camera bag of some sort (lowepro or ruggard are considered good brands).
At least 2x memory cards (about $30-40 for a v60 128gb SD, buy name-brands like Sandisk, Sony, Kingston, ProGrade, etc).
I'd also argue to get a better neckstrap, but that's a highly personal choice. Popular higher end options are BlackRapid and Peak Design.
Fairly new to cameras, wondering if R10 is worth the difference. Thanks
Fairly new to cameras, wondering if R10 is worth the difference. Thanks
The R8/RP is a full frame, which is a larger sensor than the smaller APS-C.
Typically speaking, the APS-C sensor is lower cost and is in entry-level/enthusiast bodies -- the 7D, 80D, 90D, T7i, SL3, the entire M series, R10, R7, etc.
It generally has lower dynamic range, not as good high ISO performance, and incurs a crop factor of 1.6x. That means every lens you put on a APS-C body is magnified by 1.6 -- a 50mm feels like an 85mm. That's a great "benefit" if you're doing sports or wildlife, where you need a longer focal length....a 300mm becomes a 480mm.
The drawback is on the wide end -- an 18mm is more like a 28.8mm, and you typically feel the constraints the wider you go. One to two MM on the wider end is far more impactful than a dozen MM on the longer end.
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R10 better than the RP? That's a hard question, as the answer is "it depends". They two different cameras targeted at two different segments.
The RP is a compact full-frame, the baby brother to the original Canon EOS R, first of the line. Other models like the R5 and R6 are the bigger, wealthier cousins.
The R10 is a compact APS-C, the baby brother to the R7. Same sort of comparisons apply.
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The R10 is also newer compared to the RP, and as such, as slightly improved quality of life features.
Another side benefit is the R10 being APS-C, can happily accept legacy EF-S lenses (via adapter) without any resolution penalty. If you get the R, RP, R5, R6, R7, or R3....those are full frame. You can use the adapter and put on an EF-S lens, but it'll automatically impose a 1.6x crop as the glass is smaller -- the end result is a lower megapixel image.
There are many EF-S really awesome lenses to choose from, including many budget options that don't have price equivalents in the EF/RF world. And you can use any EF lens too, though you're carrying and "paying for" glass that the sensor just doesn't use. That's why many EF-S and RF-S lenses are lighter -- less glass for a smaller sensor.
For example, there's a really nice RF-S 18-150mm "kit" lens for the APS-C R-series cameras, like the R10 and R7. It's a great walkaround lens that can be found around $300 used. The full-frame equivalent is the RF 24-240 (remember the crop factor)....and this lens is $900 new. You're paying for full-frame glass, sometimes significantly.
For example, I can pick up a first-gen Canon 7D for $100-150, and you could take photos with a prime lens that for web or small prints are indistinguishable from the newest mirrorless. And I can also take a cruddy photo on a mirrorless that is far worse than a good shot on an ancient DSLR. Newer tech gives you flexibility -- faster burst, higher ISO, better AF, higher resolution, VIDEO, etc. But good glass and technique are more important.
The 5DmkIV is a camera that'll go down in history. High performance, built very solidly, etc. If you need those quality of life features, then it might serve you better than a more-plastic R10 or R8 -- even if those mirrorless cousins beat it out on the spec sheet.
For example, for just $1000, I can get the Canon 1DX mk 1. That's the top tier professional camera line. It's a bit old, but it can stand toe to toe with (or beat) many mirrorless cameras -- the absolute best from 10-15 years ago is lower-mid-tier today. It's also built like a tank with extreme weather sealing, so you can skip arm day at the gym.
But for features on a budget, it's hard to recommend any DSLR when mirrorless is backwards compatible with lenses (via adapter)....while getting excellent stills and good-to-excellent video performance.
Mirrorless provide many quality of life improvements, but that's not to say a luxury DSLR didn't have their own quality of life features too. Just because a car might be 20 years old, heated seats are still heated seats.
DSLRs like the 5DmkII might have defined SLR video, but they're no longer the big dogs in the world they created.
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I'd go with the RP. For the quality of life improvements a newer camera brings + it has video. It's smaller and lighter -- less fatigue. You have the option of RF and EF lenses (via adapter). And most importantly, the RP is $200 cheaper.
If you have the famous Cashback starts with R, you get additional 7.5% Cashback.
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The Refurbished EF 85mm f/1.4L IS USM is only 999, which is like the king of portrait lens
https://www.usa.canon.c
Biggest benefit for me is when using heavy lenses (I use a lot of f1.4 primes -- like the 85mm 1.4, 105mm 1.4, 14-24mm 2.8 and 135 f2), these can easily be close to 3 pounds and they just feel super off-balance and difficult to shoot with on a mirrorless.
Batteries also seem to last MUCH longer on DSLR due to not always powering an LCD, plus other expansion options like a battery grip with side-shutter release which isn't possible on something like an RP.
With that said, if you're only planning to shoot with RF lenses and not many adapted ones, mirrorless is great. I still use my mirrorless with my 14-24, 20, 24, 35 and 50 lenses.. but the 85/105/135 and 70-200 are so much easier on a DSLR
Mirrorless tends to focus super quickly, but I also don't care too much about the weight and size of lenses
Fairly new to cameras, wondering if R10 is worth the difference. Thanks
As a non-professional, I prefer to carry one lens that covers a range of situations
in my travels rather than multiple lenses. YMMV.
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