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Model: In The Swim Calcium Hypochlorite Chlorine Granular Pool Shock - 24 X 1 Pound Bags
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Costco has a 24 pack in store. But i can't recall the price. I feel like it was under $100, but i can't say for certain. Can anyone confirm the Costco price?
Costco in Rochester, NY had HTH super shock 15lbs (included 15 test strips) for 61.99 last week. They also had 3" chlorine tablets 37.5 lbs for 164.99 which is the cheapest I could find.
Costco has a 24 pack in store. But i can't recall the price. I feel like it was under $100, but i can't say for certain. Can anyone confirm the Costco price?
it was 94.99 for the 24 pack Clorox shock xtra blue
Costco has a 24 pack in store. But i can't recall the price. I feel like it was under $100, but i can't say for certain. Can anyone confirm the Costco price?
Those are the clorox tri-chlor shock bags that are like, 40% available chlorine and a bunch of other crap. Like another poster said, the hth cal-hypo box at Costco has 15 1lb bags for $62+tax, but are, I think 56% strength. These are $0.05 less per bag and 12% stronger. May return the Costco stuff and buy this. In The Swim is solid.
Costco in Rochester, NY had HTH super shock 15lbs (included 15 test strips) for 61.99 last week. They also had 3" chlorine tablets 37.5 lbs for 164.99 which is the cheapest I could find.
Sam's has 40lbs di-chlor pucks for 160. Costco is in bed with clorox who uses tri-chlor and is sometimes less weight (37.5lbs) for more money. Only you know your pool chemistry and can decide which is the better "value". But pucks are "stabilized" and leave a lot of CYA behind and that builds up over time, eventually necessitating partial or full drainage to remove.
Last edited by Munkynutss May 4, 2023 at 12:04 AM.
Sam's has 40lbs di-chlor pucks for 160. Costco is in bed with clorox who uses tri-chlor and is less weight for more money. Only you know your pool chemistry and can decide which is the better "value". But pucks are "stabilized" and leave a lot of CYA behind and that builds up over time, eventually necessitating partial or full drainage to remove.
Yes, both are "stabilized" with cyanuric acid. Di-chlor generally has a little more CYA than tri-chlor.
Di-chlor will also dissolve much quicker and shouldn't affect the pH levels as much as tri-chlor, but tri-chlor basically puts more chlorine into the water (higher concentration), plus is slower dissolving.
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As for the Member's Mark (Sam's) vs Clorox (Costco), clorox tabs usually give around 96-97% available chlorine, sometimes less. While the Member's Mark tabs are 99%. Just FYI.
Yes, both are "stabilized" with cyanuric acid. Di-chlor generally has a little more CYA than tri-chlor.
Di-chlor will also dissolve much quicker and shouldn't affect the pH levels as much as tri-chlor, but tri-chlor basically puts more chlorine into the water (higher concentration), plus is slower dissolving.
I learned my lesson with stabilized chlorine and the extra CYA I was adding with every packet. I had no idea that I was adding CYA and that it stays in the water long after the chlorine has worn off. It stays in there as you add more packets, thus lowering the effectiveness of the chlorine. So water gets dirtier, you think to add more chlorine to clean it, so you add another packet (or 2, 3, 4) and now you're CYA keeps going up and stays there. All the sudden the chlorine isn't as effective, then comes the algae. No bueno.
At least that was my experience with a sunny pool. I've since switched to liquid chlorine, but it's still a pain to add almost daily during peak season. I'm switching to a salt water generator this month and can't wait. If CYA isn't an issue for you, then packets are certainly more convenient than the gallon jugs of liquid chlorine.
I learned my lesson with stabilized chlorine and the extra CYA I was adding with every packet. I had no idea that I was adding CYA and that it stays in the water long after the chlorine has worn off. It stays in there as you add more packets, thus lowering the effectiveness of the chlorine. So water gets dirtier, you think to add more chlorine to clean it, so you add another packet (or 2, 3, 4) and now you're CYA keeps going up and stays there. All the sudden the chlorine isn't as effective, then comes the algae. No bueno.
At least that was my experience with a sunny pool. I've since switched to liquid chlorine, but it's still a pain to add almost daily during peak season. I'm switching to a salt water generator this month and can't wait. If CYA isn't an issue for you, then packets are certainly more convenient than the gallon jugs of liquid chlorine.
That's what makes these bags of cal-hypo superior in almost every way to the clorox "shock" and the Member's Mark shock bags, both of which I believe are tri-chlor and di-chlor, respectively.
It's not all wine & roses, though. Cal-hypo will be harder on plaster and your pool's underground piping, and raise your calcium hardness levels (the "cal" stands for "calcium", after all).
Liquid chlorine seems to be the most effective with the least downsides overall, but the bugnuts crazy price increases in the last few years, plus the spotty availability, means there'll be a lot of folks draining their pools in the coming years as more and more rely on pucks and bagged shock exclusively.
That's what makes these bags of cal-hypo superior in almost every way to the clorox "shock" and the Member's Mark shock bags, both of which I believe are tri-chlor and di-chlor, respectively.
It's not all wine & roses, though. Cal-hypo will be harder on plaster and your pool's underground piping, and raise your calcium hardness levels (the "cal" stands for "calcium", after all).
Liquid chlorine seems to be the most effective with the least downsides overall, but the bugnuts crazy price increases in the last few years, plus the spotty availability, means there'll be a lot of folks draining their pools in the coming years as more and more rely on pucks and bagged shock exclusively.
He's talking about Cyanuric Acid in the bags. Not the calcium. Cya will eventually build up and make your chlorine less effective. These bags are trash. Just add bleach.
He's talking about Cyanuric Acid in the bags. Not the calcium. Cya will eventually build up and make your chlorine less effective. These bags are trash. Just add bleach.
Yes, I'm aware. Reading comprehension doesn't appear to be your strong suit.
These bags aren't "trash", nor do they contain cyanuric acid. They're decent to "shock" the pool when you get a bloom or had a period of particularly heavy use and/or high heat has eaten up all the free chlorine. But I was also informing him that there are downsides to using cal-hypo to shock the pool.
As to the rest of your screed, household bleach is anywhere from 5% to 7.5% concentration, whereas the HASA liquid chlorine is usually around 12%. So you're adding less unnecessary elements (that you'll need to mitigate or remove eventually) per bottle on average, but achieving a superior result, drop for drop.
Liquid chlorine has its issue of having to do it DAILY. Not for me. And then when you are out of town you either lose control or add tabs. Poolrx has always helped me with having to use less shock and tabs keeping the cya more in check. Everyone has their own way of doing it though.
Yes, both are "stabilized" with cyanuric acid. Di-chlor generally has a little more CYA than tri-chlor.
Di-chlor will also dissolve much quicker and shouldn't affect the pH levels as much as tri-chlor, but tri-chlor basically puts more chlorine into the water (higher concentration), plus is slower dissolving.
If you have Menards, 12.5% sodium hypo is on sale for 3.99 after rebate. I bought 24 jugs today. My pool is 40k gallons and I only used that 2x strength bleach last year and it went fine. Would be great solution for smaller pools.
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Liquid chlorine has its issue of having to do it DAILY. Not for me. And then when you are out of town you either lose control or add tabs. Poolrx has always helped me with having to use less shock and tabs keeping the cya more in check. Everyone has their own way of doing it though.
For sure. And every pool is unique, with unique chemistry, thus unique needs.
Out here we have a Leslie's that is notorious for having "weak" (probably watered down) HASA liquid chlorine. People are in all the time talking about having dumped 2 gallons a week and still getting algae blooms by Friday. The boxes of stuff at HD and Lowe's sit outside all day and are never rotated, so you never know what strength you're actually getting. Have to drive over 20 minutes each way to get stuff that's decent.
In CA, we also haven't been able to drain/refill for years and years. So my pool has been a friggin' nightmare to get back on an even keel. Hardness, cya, phosphates through the roof. Trying one of those solar ionizing copper tube deals now. Yes, that desperate.
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Di-chlor will also dissolve much quicker and shouldn't affect the pH levels as much as tri-chlor, but tri-chlor basically puts more chlorine into the water (higher concentration), plus is slower dissolving.
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Di-chlor will also dissolve much quicker and shouldn't affect the pH levels as much as tri-chlor, but tri-chlor basically puts more chlorine into the water (higher concentration), plus is slower dissolving.
At least that was my experience with a sunny pool. I've since switched to liquid chlorine, but it's still a pain to add almost daily during peak season. I'm switching to a salt water generator this month and can't wait. If CYA isn't an issue for you, then packets are certainly more convenient than the gallon jugs of liquid chlorine.
At least that was my experience with a sunny pool. I've since switched to liquid chlorine, but it's still a pain to add almost daily during peak season. I'm switching to a salt water generator this month and can't wait. If CYA isn't an issue for you, then packets are certainly more convenient than the gallon jugs of liquid chlorine.
It's not all wine & roses, though. Cal-hypo will be harder on plaster and your pool's underground piping, and raise your calcium hardness levels (the "cal" stands for "calcium", after all).
Liquid chlorine seems to be the most effective with the least downsides overall, but the bugnuts crazy price increases in the last few years, plus the spotty availability, means there'll be a lot of folks draining their pools in the coming years as more and more rely on pucks and bagged shock exclusively.
It's not all wine & roses, though. Cal-hypo will be harder on plaster and your pool's underground piping, and raise your calcium hardness levels (the "cal" stands for "calcium", after all).
Liquid chlorine seems to be the most effective with the least downsides overall, but the bugnuts crazy price increases in the last few years, plus the spotty availability, means there'll be a lot of folks draining their pools in the coming years as more and more rely on pucks and bagged shock exclusively.
These bags aren't "trash", nor do they contain cyanuric acid. They're decent to "shock" the pool when you get a bloom or had a period of particularly heavy use and/or high heat has eaten up all the free chlorine. But I was also informing him that there are downsides to using cal-hypo to shock the pool.
As to the rest of your screed, household bleach is anywhere from 5% to 7.5% concentration, whereas the HASA liquid chlorine is usually around 12%. So you're adding less unnecessary elements (that you'll need to mitigate or remove eventually) per bottle on average, but achieving a superior result, drop for drop.
Di-chlor will also dissolve much quicker and shouldn't affect the pH levels as much as tri-chlor, but tri-chlor basically puts more chlorine into the water (higher concentration), plus is slower dissolving.
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Out here we have a Leslie's that is notorious for having "weak" (probably watered down) HASA liquid chlorine. People are in all the time talking about having dumped 2 gallons a week and still getting algae blooms by Friday. The boxes of stuff at HD and Lowe's sit outside all day and are never rotated, so you never know what strength you're actually getting. Have to drive over 20 minutes each way to get stuff that's decent.
In CA, we also haven't been able to drain/refill for years and years. So my pool has been a friggin' nightmare to get back on an even keel. Hardness, cya, phosphates through the roof. Trying one of those solar ionizing copper tube deals now. Yes, that desperate.
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