Not all lessees will qualify. Higher lease rates apply for lessees with lower credit ratings.
No security deposit required.
Includes application of $7,500 EV Lease Bonus resulting in a net capitalized cost of of $31,259.
Net capitalized cost includes $650 acquisition fee. Dealer contribution may vary and could affect actual lease payment. Total monthly payments $11,952. Option to purchase at lease end $24,815.
Lessee is also responsible for insurance, maintenance, repairs, $.20 per mile over 10,000 miles/year, excess wear, and a $400 disposition fee. Disposition fee of $400 applies in all states except in CO, IN, IA, KS, ME, OK, SC, WI, WV, and WY, where disposition fee is subject to state law
Refer to forum thread for additional offers and discussion from the community regarding this offer.
This collaborative space allows users to contribute additional information, tips, and insights to enhance the original deal post. Feel free to share your knowledge and help fellow shoppers make informed decisions.
Not all lessees will qualify. Higher lease rates apply for lessees with lower credit ratings.
No security deposit required.
Includes application of $7,500 EV Lease Bonus resulting in a net capitalized cost of of $31,259.
Net capitalized cost includes $650 acquisition fee. Dealer contribution may vary and could affect actual lease payment. Total monthly payments $11,952. Option to purchase at lease end $24,815.
Lessee is also responsible for insurance, maintenance, repairs, $.20 per mile over 10,000 miles/year, excess wear, and a $400 disposition fee. Disposition fee of $400 applies in all states except in CO, IN, IA, KS, ME, OK, SC, WI, WV, and WY, where disposition fee is subject to state law
Refer to forum thread for additional offers and discussion from the community regarding this offer.
Good luck finding a Hyundai dealership that isn't marking up 7.5k to negate the credit. Tried to buy one last year and they marked up anywhere from 2k minimum to 8k with add-ons.
Hyundai actually found the issue, it was an app that sent a bunch of information/stayed connected when the car is off. Teslas have a worse issue which is phantom drain, since the car stays connected for connectivity/app usage it drains the main drive battery. Ends up making the car horribly inefficient. People come back to their cars with way less drivable range.
The Ioniq 5 is plagued with Apple Car Play issues. I own one and have been dealing with it with no luck from ether Hyundai or Gerald, The dealer in Chicago. Even the windshield is flimsy and multiple owners have reported. I as well have had a crack. Rather go for a Tesla and claim your goodies for the fed rebate. Plus the Bluelink app is slower than a snail.
Last edited by vintech1976 June 7, 2023 at 11:44 AM.
Never leased before. I think I understand the net capitalized cost calculation which is used to determine lease payments. What then is the cost of the vehicle after the lease term?
Dont lease a car if you want to buy it. If you want to buy it, then buy it. Why lease it? I have done leases for a long time. Zero fleeces. I dont like cap cost leases as I have never done one. If the car is totaled or stolen the cap money is lost. I dont know if there is a way to proetect that. Anyway if you did pay a cap cost you need to total everything and divide by 36 for the true monthly payment. I strongly suggest you go to leasehacker forums and read and stud before trying to lease any vehicle. Also top tier credit helps on a lease.
I know a bunch of people who have owned a Tesla, and it's not all sunshine and roses. As much as Tesla fanboys want you to believe.
And that applies to every new car on the road today about sunshine and roses. See what happens when you take an Audi brand new to the dealer service dept that is known to be the greatest ever and they give you attitude. Or the Volvo dealer that scratches the car when its serviced, or the Lexus dealer, or Mercedes.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank benuendos
First off - go to https://leasehackr.com/ before you even consider leasing. It's legitimately the best information resource I've found by degrees. You find out how it all really works. My last lease was just ridiculously cheap because I followed their guide and used their calculator.l
Second - do not *ever* put money down on a lease to lower the monthly payment. You get into an accident and total your lease? That money is gone. You really want to risk dumping $5k plus down the drain?
Finally (but not really - that's what the website is for), in this environment get a Costco membership and go to dealers in their network. They have to legitimately offer a discount under MSRP, so no markup grifting. If you happen to live in a market that not awful anymore this probably isn't necessary if you are good at haggling, but if you're in somewhere like NY or Cali it can be a godsend
Oh! And make sure to pay attention to the section on Multiple Security Deposits (MSDs). It will save you a ton in the right circumstances
100%
The best deal here is to lease it and as soon as you get your account settled, buyout the vehicle by financing it through a credit union at a low APR. That way, you pocket the 7500 credit which is not available by doing a retail purchase.
I wouldn't put any cash down on a lease, just do a basic 36/10k with your first month due at signing and buy it.
I did this too. Once I got my Hyundai Finance Account setup, I went to my credit union and got financing to buy out the lease. There were some lease fees that could not be removed (acquisition fees, document fees, etc), but I was able to take home a good portion of the $7,500 credit.
This must be a paid advertisement post for SlickDeals because it's actually a Sh*tDeal. Total cost of lease is actually $16,952.04 not including taxes and fees.
If you include the acquisition fee at the end: $17,647.04
If you include the buyout price for the total cost: $41,767.04
Even factoring in the EV credit does not help this deal with overall costs
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Good luck finding a Hyundai dealership that isn't marking up 7.5k to negate the credit. Tried to buy one last year and they marked up anywhere from 2k minimum to 8k with add-ons.
Hopefully this comment isn't deterring people. If you look around the different forums/reddit, you will see that many are reporting getting these for 3-4k below MSRP. We have car salesmen in this thread advertising 1k below retail and I can tell you that they aren't doing it out of the kindness of their heart...The vehicle market has changed drastically from just a month ago. They are called bubbles for a reason.
This must be a paid advertisement post for SlickDeals because it's actually a Sh*tDeal. Total cost of lease is actually $16,952.04 not including taxes and fees.
If you include the acquisition fee at the end: $17,647.04
If you include the buyout price for the total cost: $41,767.04
Even factoring in the EV credit does not help this deal with overall costs
I have leased cars for a long time. I have never seen so much talk about buying out the lease. Explain to me why the main goal is to buy it out? That sounds like those who have never leased. Not to meantion without very good credit your rates will be higher. The idea here due to the 7500 is to lease it ONLY and return it. The idea is that you are paying hopefully the exact depreciation of the car or less. The benefit here for some is lease not buy. I dont like CAP cost leases myself. I typically only like sign and drive.
Is that before the $7500 tax credit? I've seen dealers dealers often have some fine print that they keep all incentives.
So in other wards, you are waving your hands around to intentionally hide moving the goal posts to cover up your original incorrect statement.
So.. you wished your neighbor paid more than you?
None of my statements were incorrect. I'm telling you how to save money and you and your buddies are trying to tell m I'm wrong.
The $7500 you're seeing here is a tax credit that is being issued to Hyundai that they're passing on to the consumer in order to sell the vehicle. The tax credit is for them "leasing" you an EV. If you go through a third party, who will also pass on the tax credit to you, then not only do you get the $7500, but you get the $5000 cash rebate as well.
You cannot get the tax credit on your own, because Hyundai does not meet the government requirements on their Ioniq 5, but since it's an EV they still qualify for the tax credit for leasing one.
But like I've already said, do it your own way and go through HMF if you think that's the right play. I'm not buying an Ioniq, but I decided to, I'm getting the whole $12,500, plus any other rebates and perks I can pull from it.
Initially got my IONIQ 5 Limited lease at Freehold Hyundai, NJ. No markup, $0 down, $0 DAS. Took about a month and a half with Hyundai Motor Finance, but eventually bought it out afterwards, so $7500 tax credit plus no sales tax thanks to NJ's ZEV exemption.
Also, thanks to markups.org, I found and bought another car at Brandfon Hyundai in West Haven, CT. They don't mark up their vehicles over MSRP. Was a bit of a hike to get there, but it was worth it.
I did this too. Once I got my Hyundai Finance Account setup, I went to my credit union and got financing to buy out the lease. There were some lease fees that could not be removed (acquisition fees, document fees, etc), but I was able to take home a good portion of the $7,500 credit.
In Florida you can only do a lease buyout with the dealer and they decide the terms of it.
Announced "highway driving range" for the most EVs are complete marketing bullshit! I leased (and pretty to get rid of!) Nissan Leaf 2021 with 40 kWh battery; the real range on a highway was about 120 miles at summer and less than 100 miles winter times.
Also, these "mpg" calculations and announcements are bullshit too, especially with the current electricity prices. From my personal experience, with my driving pattern, the real saving was about $25-30/month (these days I'm working mostly remotely, refilling the tank of my Altima about twice a month).
And of course I do know how the EVs/Teslas fanboys reacts on these facts but I just couldn't keep silent
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Dont lease a car if you want to buy it. If you want to buy it, then buy it. Why lease it? I have done leases for a long time. Zero fleeces. I dont like cap cost leases as I have never done one. If the car is totaled or stolen the cap money is lost. I dont know if there is a way to proetect that. Anyway if you did pay a cap cost you need to total everything and divide by 36 for the true monthly payment. I strongly suggest you go to leasehacker forums and read and stud before trying to lease any vehicle. Also top tier credit helps on a lease.
And that applies to every new car on the road today about sunshine and roses. See what happens when you take an Audi brand new to the dealer service dept that is known to be the greatest ever and they give you attitude. Or the Volvo dealer that scratches the car when its serviced, or the Lexus dealer, or Mercedes.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank benuendos
Second - do not *ever* put money down on a lease to lower the monthly payment. You get into an accident and total your lease? That money is gone. You really want to risk dumping $5k plus down the drain?
Finally (but not really - that's what the website is for), in this environment get a Costco membership and go to dealers in their network. They have to legitimately offer a discount under MSRP, so no markup grifting. If you happen to live in a market that not awful anymore this probably isn't necessary if you are good at haggling, but if you're in somewhere like NY or Cali it can be a godsend
Oh! And make sure to pay attention to the section on Multiple Security Deposits (MSDs). It will save you a ton in the right circumstances
The best deal here is to lease it and as soon as you get your account settled, buyout the vehicle by financing it through a credit union at a low APR. That way, you pocket the 7500 credit which is not available by doing a retail purchase.
I wouldn't put any cash down on a lease, just do a basic 36/10k with your first month due at signing and buy it.
If you include the acquisition fee at the end: $17,647.04
If you include the buyout price for the total cost: $41,767.04
Even factoring in the EV credit does not help this deal with overall costs
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
If you include the acquisition fee at the end: $17,647.04
If you include the buyout price for the total cost: $41,767.04
Even factoring in the EV credit does not help this deal with overall costs
I have leased cars for a long time. I have never seen so much talk about buying out the lease. Explain to me why the main goal is to buy it out? That sounds like those who have never leased. Not to meantion without very good credit your rates will be higher. The idea here due to the 7500 is to lease it ONLY and return it. The idea is that you are paying hopefully the exact depreciation of the car or less. The benefit here for some is lease not buy. I dont like CAP cost leases myself. I typically only like sign and drive.
So in other wards, you are waving your hands around to intentionally hide moving the goal posts to cover up your original incorrect statement.
So.. you wished your neighbor paid more than you?
The $7500 you're seeing here is a tax credit that is being issued to Hyundai that they're passing on to the consumer in order to sell the vehicle. The tax credit is for them "leasing" you an EV. If you go through a third party, who will also pass on the tax credit to you, then not only do you get the $7500, but you get the $5000 cash rebate as well.
You cannot get the tax credit on your own, because Hyundai does not meet the government requirements on their Ioniq 5, but since it's an EV they still qualify for the tax credit for leasing one.
But like I've already said, do it your own way and go through HMF if you think that's the right play. I'm not buying an Ioniq, but I decided to, I'm getting the whole $12,500, plus any other rebates and perks I can pull from it.
Also, thanks to markups.org, I found and bought another car at Brandfon Hyundai in West Haven, CT. They don't mark up their vehicles over MSRP. Was a bit of a hike to get there, but it was worth it.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Also, these "mpg" calculations and announcements are bullshit too, especially with the current electricity prices. From my personal experience, with my driving pattern, the real saving was about $25-30/month (these days I'm working mostly remotely, refilling the tank of my Altima about twice a month).
And of course I do know how the EVs/Teslas fanboys reacts on these facts but I just couldn't keep silent
Join The Conversation
Share your experience with the Slickdeals community
Share information with the community. Please follow our Community Guidelines and be kind!