Update: This deal is still available and with a slightly lower price.
Amazon has
Tripp Lite Isobar Ultra 8-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip w/ 12' Cord on sale for $54.92 ->
Now $54.41.
Shipping is free.
Walmart also has
Tripp Lite Isobar Ultra 8-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip w/ 12' Cord on sale for $54.92 ->
Now $54.41..
Shipping is free.
Thanks to community member
jmabi for finding this deal.
Product Details:
- 3840-joule surge protection rating
- EMI/RFI noise filtering protects against outside interference
- Isolated filter banks protect against internal interference
- 12-foot AC input cord with 5-15P right-angle plug
Top Comments
on some glorified surge protector, you may as well buy a;
https://www.amazon.com//dp/B00009RA60
line conditioner, which is superior to ANY surge suppressor
as it also adds brown out protect which is very common.
these will remain effective forever, while surge protectors
lose their their rating over the years. i bought this 600w
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29MBmnG
30 years ago for $100 and it's been flawless ever since,
protecting all my home network and AV equipment.
Additionally, as MOVs (the surge protection component) wear out, the clamping voltage drops. If/when the clamping voltage drops below the peaks of the sine wave, it will start clamping when there is not a surge, leading to a positive feedback loop and thermal runaway. This is one of the reasons surge protectors sometimes catch fire. Modern surge protectors are required to have thermal fuses, to reduce the likelihood of this. The point is, all else being equal, a MOV with a lower clamping voltage will fail quicker than one with a higher clamping voltage. It will both be suppressing milder surges and have less room for degradation before failure.
As you brought up, the clamping voltage (and joule rating) can also be different between legs. Unlike hot-neutral and hot-ground, neutral-ground should have less/no difference in potential between them (0V). This is not always the case, especially in improperly wired circuits. The level of protection provided does often differ between the various legs. Surges are less likely neutral-ground, so there's usually less protection there. Hot-neutral and hot-ground are the bigger concern.
As for the product you linked, it looks like a slightly lower end unit. It doesn't appear to be of their flagship Isobar/Isotel line. It lacks the isolated filter banks and metal casing. It may also have weaker surge protection. It does have RJ11 (telephone) protection but not many people still have conventional landlines. I would spend the extra on the Isobar in this deal.
People often overestimate what a line conditioner or UPS does, probably due to good marketing. A line conditioner is usually simply a mediocre surge protector combined with a 2 or 4 stage AVR. As demonstrated in that video, that model has 4 discrete AVR modes (2 boost and 2 buck). This will boost or trim the incoming voltage by a certain percentage. As he shows, it does NOT guarantee a constant 120V. An AVR is really only useful if use experience frequent, prolonged mild/moderate undervoltages or overvoltages and have equipment that is sensitive to them. Many modern switching power supplies are already designed to accept voltages in this range. I don't think line conditioners are particularly useful for the average person. Depending on your needs, a good surge protector or a UPS is likely a better choice.
Unless they've changed, the Tripp-Lite Isobar Ultra is a high quality point-of-use surge protector. Like most other surge protectors you see for sale, it does use sacrificial MOVs that WILL eventually fail (even if it takes decades). If you want something that should last forever, you need to shell out big money for a series mode surge protector. Those are uncommon and expensive (I think about $200 for the most basic model).
For protection from surges originating from outside the house, a whole-house surge protector is the best choice. These provide far superior protection, due to their proximity to earth ground. Point-of-use surge protectors are still a good idea for surges originating inside the house.
If you're going to do that, it would be preferable to do it the other way around. Plug the power conditioner into the surge protector.
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95 Comments
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https://tripplite.eaton
One can do cheaper and get similar specs from from Cyberpower or Monoprice.
on some glorified surge protector, you may as well buy a;
https://www.amazon.com//dp/B00009RA60
line conditioner, which is superior to ANY surge suppressor
as it also adds brown out protect which is very common.
these will remain effective forever, while surge protectors
lose their their rating over the years. i bought this 600w
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29MBmnG
30 years ago for $100 and it's been flawless ever since,
protecting all my home network and AV equipment.
I'm also trying to understand the protection difference between this and another tripp lite TLP1208TEL: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036FS...dp_it&th=1 [amazon.com]
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank
on some glorified surge protector, you may as well buy a;
https://www.amazon.com//dp/B00009RA60
line conditioner, which is superior to ANY surge suppressor
as it also adds brown out protect which is very common.
these will remain effective forever, while surge protectors
lose their their rating over the years. i bought this 600w
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29MBmnG
30 years ago for $100 and it's been flawless ever since,
protecting all my home network and AV equipment.
People often overestimate what a line conditioner or UPS does, probably due to good marketing. A line conditioner is usually simply a mediocre surge protector combined with a 2 or 4 stage AVR. As demonstrated in that video, that model has 4 discrete AVR modes (2 boost and 2 buck). This will boost or trim the incoming voltage by a certain percentage. As he shows, it does NOT guarantee a constant 120V. An AVR is really only useful if use experience frequent, prolonged mild/moderate undervoltages or overvoltages and have equipment that is sensitive to them. Many modern switching power supplies are already designed to accept voltages in this range. I don't think line conditioners are particularly useful for the average person. Depending on your needs, a good surge protector or a UPS is likely a better choice.
Unless they've changed, the Tripp-Lite Isobar Ultra is a high quality point-of-use surge protector. Like most other surge protectors you see for sale, it does use sacrificial MOVs that WILL eventually fail (even if it takes decades). If you want something that should last forever, you need to shell out big money for a series mode surge protector. Those are uncommon and expensive (I think about $200 for the most basic model).
For protection from surges originating from outside the house, a whole-house surge protector is the best choice. These provide far superior protection, due to their proximity to earth ground. Point-of-use surge protectors are still a good idea for surges originating inside the house.
There is literally no better home use surge protector. They will never wear out.
I no longer use standard line interactive UPSs for anything.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
I no longer use standard line interactive UPSs for anything.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank
I'm also trying to understand the protection difference between this and another tripp lite TLP1208TEL: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036FS...dp_it
Additionally, as MOVs (the surge protection component) wear out, the clamping voltage drops. If/when the clamping voltage drops below the peaks of the sine wave, it will start clamping when there is not a surge, leading to a positive feedback loop and thermal runaway. This is one of the reasons surge protectors sometimes catch fire. Modern surge protectors are required to have thermal fuses, to reduce the likelihood of this. The point is, all else being equal, a MOV with a lower clamping voltage will fail quicker than one with a higher clamping voltage. It will both be suppressing milder surges and have less room for degradation before failure.
As you brought up, the clamping voltage (and joule rating) can also be different between legs. Unlike hot-neutral and hot-ground, neutral-ground should have less/no difference in potential between them (0V). This is not always the case, especially in improperly wired circuits. The level of protection provided does often differ between the various legs. Surges are less likely neutral-ground, so there's usually less protection there. Hot-neutral and hot-ground are the bigger concern.
As for the product you linked, it looks like a slightly lower end unit. It doesn't appear to be of their flagship Isobar/Isotel line. It lacks the isolated filter banks and metal casing. It may also have weaker surge protection. It does have RJ11 (telephone) protection but not many people still have conventional landlines. I would spend the extra on the Isobar in this deal.
There is literally no better home use surge protector. They will never wear out.
on some glorified surge protector, you may as well buy a;
https://www.amazon.com//dp/B00009RA60
line conditioner, which is superior to ANY surge suppressor
as it also adds brown out protect which is very common.
these will remain effective forever, while surge protectors
lose their their rating over the years. i bought this 600w
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29MBmnG
30 years ago for $100 and it's been flawless ever since,
protecting all my home network and AV equipment.
The manual says "All models feature an internal protection that will disconnect the surge-protective component at the end of its useful life but will maintain power to the loadnow unprotected."
Translation: when the thing dies, your stuff is not protected.
The manual says "All models feature an internal protection that will disconnect the surge-protective component at the end of its useful life but will maintain power to the loadnow unprotected."
Translation: when the thing dies, your stuff is not protected.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
The manual says "All models feature an internal protection that will disconnect the surge-protective component at the end of its useful life but will maintain power to the loadnow unprotected."
Translation: when the thing dies, your stuff is not protected.
Automatic shutoff permanently cuts power to outlets if protection circuit is incapacitated, preventing equipment damage and indicating replacement is required
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