expired Posted by am1288jk • Jun 12, 2023
Jun 12, 2023 8:06 AM
Item 1 of 1
expired Posted by am1288jk • Jun 12, 2023
Jun 12, 2023 8:06 AM
Canon Refurbished Lenses: RF 50mm f/1.8 STM $79, RF 100mm F2.8 L Macro IS USM
& More + Free S&H$799
$1,169
31% offCanon
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Here's a nice DIY kit that'll last for many years, and it'll be a massive improvement over all but the "best" DSLRs. All on a very reasonable budget.
It'll be perfectly fine for stills, but a bit weak for video compared to many modern mirrorless bodies. If video is your primary goal, keep this in mind as you do your homework.
RP Body: $600
50mm/1.8: $80
RF 24-105 IS: $160
RF 100-400 IS: $380
Subtotal: ~$1220
but wait, there's more! subtract $60 savings from buying RP + RF 24-105 combo on the same order....
Total: $1160 (10% loyalty discount, if applicable - brings the total to $1044+tax)
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Other good lenses to possibly consider:
- EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM @ $499
(this is a great Macro --and portrait-- lens that's EF mount. You'll need an EF-to-RF adapter @ $100 to use it on the RP or any R-series mirrorless, but you can do so without any drawbacks).
- EF-M 15-45mm f/3.5-6.3 IS STM @ $49
(if you have an M-series body, this is a very competent & lightweight kit zoom at a bargain price. unfortunately, it's 100% not compatible on EF/EF-S DSLRs or R mirrorless bodies.)
- Canon EF 11-24mm F4L USM @ $1499
(a very strong performing ultra-wide angle lens with minimal distortion, about $500 cheaper than the current used rates. this isn't for everyone, but if you've been eyeballing it, I doubt you'll find it for cheaper. It's $200 cheaper than last Black Friday holiday season. It's a lens with few, if any, comparable versions from other manufacturers. As with all EF lenses, you'll need an adapter for R-series mirrorless.)
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Other components to consider:
- neckstrap (highly personal choice, good brands are Peak Design, Domke, and Black Rapid. I'm not a fan of included neckstraps.)
- camera bag (again, highly personal. good brands are lowepro, ruggard, tamrac. various options include backpack, shoulder bag, sling bag, and holster bags, and hardshell cases like Pelican/Nanuk cases)
- extra batteries (i'd suggest getting 2x spares, as the RP can be a battery hog. get name-brand batteries only from a reputable vendor, like B&H Photo or Adorama.)
- memory card (v60, 128gb-256gb would be more than enough unless you're doing lots of video work, which isn't the RP's strong suit. Once again, beware of counterfeits from places like Amazon. Order from B&H or Adorama or directly from the manufacturer. I always suggest multiple smaller cards instead of one supermassive card -- spares in case of failure.)
- lens protection (i'm personally against UV/protection filters. even the best expensive B+W brand multicoated can cause nasty glares and reflections. I'd suggest getting a lens hood, and a third party branded one at that -- like vello. Canon's official lens hoods are ridiculously expensive.)
- tripod (once again, highly personal option. there's a lot of choices out there with a plethora of options. consider buying used. Bogen/Manfrotto makes very respectable products, for the most part. keep in mind, everyone makes pro-tier and budget-tier hardware.)
The R6 Mark I at $1299 is a smoking hot deal on a really good camera. It's $1000 less than a year ago. https://www.usa.canon.c
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Having used the 70d and 5Ds next to the RP, eye-AF and on-sensor focus were game changers and constituted a massive upgrade to me. The Sigma 18-35 you mention needed extensive focus calibration to use on the 70d and it was still soft at certain distances and focal lengths. Not required on the RP or any mirrorless body.
Having used the 70d and 5Ds next to the RP, eye-AF and on-sensor focus were game changers and constituted a massive upgrade to me. The Sigma 18-35 you mention needed extensive focus calibration to use on the 70d and it was still soft at certain distances and focal lengths. Not required on the RP or any mirrorless body.
The RP at $600 sure as heck beats out nearly every DSLR one can get at that price point, and then some. The full-viewfinder autofocus selection is absolutely a game changer for mirrorless, which isn't something one gets with DSLRs, which tend to cluster around the middle third of the frame.
And built-in lens correction with live-view -- it's really hard to switch back to a DSLR without it.
Not sure the argument for the RP being better than the 5DMIV or D850. The two are heavier...sure. but more feature rich and more, all around capable. No idea how you got to a massive improvement.
That 24-105 should stail in the hands of someone who shoots often. I have a catalog of the 400 photos Ive sold. I am about 50/50 for wide open (1.8 or 2.8) vs stopped down. F7.1 at 105 would mean I wouldn't get a lot of shots that I want.
You listed that 100-400. The pregression I have seen the most is midrange, buy a telephoto, not know how to use a telephoto and the sell it for an UWA zoom.
I concede it would give you a rather flexible kit, but I would be very unsatisfied with it.
I can't play the brand loyalty game. Most of the camera bodies are incredibly capable and, baring a few features, for me its the glass that sets them apart. And specifically the 3d part glass that canon refuses to allow. My ideal kit is a FF body and the Tamron 35-150. Based on the Z release timeline, coming to Nikon soon enough and currently out for Sony. The Canon equivalent costs more than the Tamron lens and a sony body and still comes in at half thr focal length. This, to me, is important because tmat these prices it is a loss leader. They sell the low end body and glass to get you in the door, and then you feel like you're stuck in the absurdly expensive ecosystem.
I will admit, my biases. I am still shooting ASPC DSLR. And though I consider myself amateur, people buy my work. (I shoot when I am.not at my full time job). I have always preferred 3d party glass. They innovate so much more. No one did anything like the Sigma 18-35 for ASPC or the Tamron 35-150 for Sony. Getting into an ecosystem that is also a forced monopoly would be wildy frustrating for me.
I'm not saying the 24-105 is an amazing professional lens. I'm saying it's a dang bargain at $100-160, and a beginner would get a lot of mileage out of it before outgrowing it. And for low light situations, that's where the 50mm/1.8 comes in.
Then you continued about the 100-400, blathered a bit about loyalty and biases and honestly I stopped following along at that point.
If you feel that you're getting "locked" into an ecosystem with a mere $600 body and a $100 lens....well, buddy, take a look at some other ecosystems where $700 is a just rounding error. Now -that's- getting locked in.
You're ripping into a budget option for a beginner, heavily criticizing a DIY package hits far above it's weight class, especially at the price it comes in at. While saying "it's not good for paid work." Well, of course not. If you're getting paid for your stuff, you probably already know what you need -- and dealing with these Mickey Mouse nonsense budget options is not worth your valuable paid time. I don't even know how you carved out enough time from your very profitable day to reply to my comment.
It's like saying a budget point and shoot isn't the best for pro sports work. Yeah, you're right. It probably isn't. The sky is blue and grass is green too.
You're like a cloud searching for a parade to rain on.
Having used the 70d and 5Ds next to the RP, eye-AF and on-sensor focus were game changers and constituted a massive upgrade to me. The Sigma 18-35 you mention needed extensive focus calibration to use on the 70d and it was still soft at certain distances and focal lengths. Not required on the RP or any mirrorless body.
I then count myself lucky with my copy of my 18-35. I never looked up issues as I didn't have any.
I am certainly envious of the mirrorless autofocus cape abilities. But my 7 year old ASPC is still giving me great images...i do want to upgrade though for sure...its just that cost though.
What do you shoot with now?
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I'm not saying the 24-105 is an amazing professional lens. I'm saying it's a dang bargain at $100-160, and a beginner would get a lot of mileage out of it before outgrowing it. And for low light situations, that's where the 50mm/1.8 comes in.
Then you continued about the 100-400, blathered a bit about loyalty and biases and honestly I stopped following along at that point.
If you feel that you're getting "locked" into an ecosystem with a mere $600 body and a $100 lens....well, buddy, take a look at some other ecosystems where $700 is a just rounding error. Now -that's- getting locked in.
You're ripping into a budget option for a beginner, heavily criticizing a DIY package hits far above it's weight class, especially at the price it comes in at. While saying "it's not good for paid work." Well, of course not. If you're getting paid for your stuff, you probably already know what you need -- and dealing with these Mickey Mouse nonsense budget options is not worth your valuable paid time. I don't even know how you carved out enough time from your very profitable day to reply to my comment.
It's like saying a budget point and shoot isn't the best for pro sports work. Yeah, you're right. It probably isn't. The sky is blue and grass is green too.
You're like a cloud searching for a parade to rain on.
Any suggestions on whether the R6 would be better than the A7RIII. Not too worried about megapixels. Thanks
Any suggestions on whether the R6 would be better than the A7RIII. Not too worried about megapixels. Thanks
The next part is the autofocus. Now, the A7R3 can be fantastic. But it can be finicky in a lot of scenarios. If you have a group of people together and you need to switch AF from person to person, eye to eye, on the R6 it's very easy. You just tap the joystick to switch to a different eye. Or you can tap the screen on the person you want to focus on. Or you can use the touch and drag to switch from person to person. During pressure situations, I had a hard time choosing the desired person or eye on the A7R3. An example is you have a runway of models coming down and you need to switch from person to person. On the R6, you can switch fairly easily and get your shots. On the a7R3, it was trickier and often times, it would stick to a person too much.
The A7R3 is also terrible to hold but to each his own on handibility. I don't even have big hands and I find the A7R3 uncomfortable.
Now, I don't know about others, but I'm big into grabbing a camera and getting into shooting right away. The A7R3, like most Sony's, have to really be tailored to be used. Out of box, I hate the interface and usability. Now, recent Sony cameras have gotten better with a newer UI, but nowhere near Canon as out-of-box.
Also, I don't get the hate on EF glass. Red cameras use EF glass. Blackmagic cameras use EF glass. While the EF glass isn't as good as RF glass (especially in AF performance), that EF glass will perform better on the Canon mirrorless cameras better than on any Canon DSLR and certainly better than on Sony bodies.
Super thankful this post; after waiting for years for a cheaper price, I bit the bullet at $1299 (minus 10% from the trade-in loyalty program), the cheapest I've ever seen it. It took two-three days for it to ship.
For everyone else who has been waiting patiently as I have been, I'm honestly not sure it'll get any more affordable than this for a while, so maybe consider making a grab for it once it's restocked.
The people who are out there shooting with whatever they have don't give two hoots about EF, RF, or whatever. They use what they have, in the system they're using, for the desired results they need. Those folks aren't on here moaning and groaning about EF vs RF. They're too busy making awesome things.
That sense of "ooo look at me, I'm a person of culture and sophistication, my tastes are better than yours, pleb" sense of superiority is very real.
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