- $8 manufacturer's savings is valid 8/30/23 through 09/24/23. While supplies last. Limit 5 per member.
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- Details of Costco's return policy here [costco.com].
PQIA Analysis of 5w30 in 2021, when it was updated to be rated API SP and ILSAC GF-6A: https://pqia.org/kirkland-full-sy...motor-oil/
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The 0W-20 and 5W-30 appear to be Dexos 2 Gen 2. I haven't looked up whether D2G2 has been tested to mitigate low-speed pre-initiation (LSPI), common in some US direct-injection engines, especially turbos (DIT).
I personally just changed the oil in my turbo Subie (FA20DIT) with Kirkland Signature 5W-30 Dexos 1 (ONE) Gen 3, which IS tested to mitigate LSPI.
When I researched this several years ago, the Dexos 2 (not gen 2) was spec'd by GM for their small turbos, but then they changed it to Dexos 1 due to LSPI. I would personally stick with D1G3 if you have a small turbo engine with direct injection. If you don't have direct injection, then D2G2 will likely be more robust.
1. It is a challenge to jack up the car and put it on jack stands for newbies, do you even know what kind of jack to use or the correct place to jack up the car? If you mess up here, you might damage your car or get yourself killed. I suggest using ramps as they're easier to use, and remember to get wheel chocks.
2. To a newbie, you might have trouble removing the oil drain plug because the clearance under the car is limited and your ratchet might not provide enough leverage. A longer breaker bar will make things easier.
3. To a newbie, you might have trouble removing the oil filter that was spun on too tightly. It is best to use an oil filter removal tool.
4. You can't dump the used oil filter and used oil anywhere you like, you need to bring them to the appropriate dumping locations, which is an additional hassle.
After you consider all these, paying someone else to do it might seem like the more attractive option.
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For my Subarus the oil filter is on top of the engine - couldn't be much easier to change and results in zero mess. Some of my older vehicles had the oil tucked up on the side of the engine - always made a mess.
I also installed a little Fumoto drain valve to make it even easier and less messy. I only have to do the following:
1. Jack car up from one side and add jack stand for safety
2. Slide used oil catch container under the engine drain pan
3. Turn drain valve lever to commence drain.
4. Lower car
5. Remove old oil filter and clean seating area (I only change the filter every other interval - Fram Ultra)
6. When drain is complete, shut drain valve and clean the few drops of oil on the nozzle
7. Fill new filter maybe halfway to wet the pleats and install, if applicable
8. Add oil per manual (5-6 qts depending on which Subie) and check level
9. Start engine and run for ten or so seconds (how long it takes for the idle to come down for me)
10. Check oil level and add as necessary
Anyone can do this - I have faith in you! I've done it in the grass with only hand tools before and im far from the best shade-tree mech. Lol
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Some shops might do an oil change with your oil and filter, charging you only for labor and maybe disposal fees. If I wasn't inclined to change my own oil I'm not sure I'd do this unless I had a very good relationship with the shop, because it's your ass if something goes wrong and there's any possibility of it being the oil. Eg, they didn't put enough oil in, you don't check, they blame it on consumption due to your choice of oil.
step 1.
At ~ $3.20/qt it can't be beat - even the M1 rebate game is slightly more $$ and you have to jump through all the hoops, not to mention there are redemption limits.
FWIW this and many of the store brand oils (Walmart, Amazon, etc) are all made by Warren Distribution.
You're saying that you only are putting 5qts in at a time and it's showing midway in the hatchmarks?
<~~~~has a 2019 Odyssey
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