Home Depot has
6' Gladiator Adjustable Height Birch Top Workbench (Gray, GAWB06HWEG0 on sale for
$265 (price in cart). Select free store pickup where stock permits, otherwise shipping starts at $55.
Thanks to Community Member
Omgchillax for sharing this deal.
Features:
- Rated weight capacity of 3000-lbs. is ideal for handling heavy projects
- Hardwood top has pre-drilled holes for easy leg installation
- Heavy duty steel frame and legs provide a strong foundation that won't shake or slide; nylon foot pads prevent floor stains and corrosion
- Ideal for a wide range of uses, including a desk, project area or bar area
- Thick hardwood top has spacious surface area and is UV-cured for lasting beauty and durability
- Leg height adjusts in 1.25'' increments
- Fully adjustable to meet ADA height requirements
- Threaded bolt leveler feet allow you to fine-tune placement on uneven floors
- One-year limited warranty on the workbench top and limited lifetime warranty on the legs and metal frame
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Top Comments
The clearcoat on it isn't very durable and has worn out in a few places.
The center front is not supported by anything. The back has a long metal bar that secures to the wood. So, the front center begins to sag a little, I'd say like 1/8", if any kind of weight is routinely placed on that location. Also since the back has that metal piece it's not possible to clamp anything to it. No monitor clamp, etc. You must clamp those to the sides.
Unless you're going to use it as a standing desk you'll probably wind up letting the legs go all the way down, even past the last notch. At this height it is 28" to the table top.
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I'm wondering if you could do something similar with an angle iron (L-beam) on the front edge for similar (though slightly less capacity) effect.
Either way, really good idea and got me thinking. Thank you for sharing it!
If you're up to it, I'd like to tell you how I fixed this. I've been using a regular 4x8 3/4" pine sheet for over 5 years now with no sag. The same method I describe can be used here:
I set my Dewalt router up with a 1/8" bit, on a guide rail about 2 inches in from the edge of the wood. I have the depth set to about 3/8". I then router a straight line almost from edge to edge, about 2 inches from either end. Then I set the guide rail another half inch in, and make a perfectly parallel cut next to the first. I now have two parallel grooves, perfect for... C-channel steel! I then laid the steel into the grooves. Finally, I use the pre-cut holes in the C-channel for screws to secure it into the wood. Your wood table is now reinforced with steel and will never sag.
I'm wondering if you could do something similar with an angle iron (L-beam) on the front edge for similar (though slightly less capacity) effect.
Either way, really good idea and got me thinking. Thank you for sharing it!
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