Newegg has
Corsair HX1500i 80 Plus Platinum Fully Modular Ultra-Low Noise 1500 Watt ATX Digital Power Supply (CP-9020215-NA) +
$20 Newegg Promotional eGift Card (Digital Delivery, added to cart automatically) on sale for
$279.99.
Shipping is free.
Amazon has
Corsair HX1500i 80 Plus Platinum Fully Modular Ultra-Low Noise 1500 Watt ATX Digital Power Supply (CP-9020215-NA) on sale for
$279.99.
Shipping is free.
Thanks to community member
CarlosSantana2022 for finding this deal.
- Note: Newegg Promotional eGift Card emailed 4 days after invoice. The gift card will expire in 365 days after issue.
Product Details:
- Features three EPS12V connectors and fully modular, sleeved, flat cabling.
- 80 Plus Platinum Certified: Up to 92% efficiency
- Maximum Power: 1500 W
- 1x 140 mm Fluid Dynamic Bearing (FDB) Fan
- 24-Pin Main Connector
- Single +12V Rail
- 9x PCIe Connectors (6+2-Pin)
- 8x SATA Power Connectors
- 100% Japanese 105°C Electrolytic Capacitors
- 10-Year Limited Warranty
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Per its quick start guide (page 5), the PSU can do 1200W:
https://res.cloudinary.
YMMV, 1500W _might be achieved using 250VAC- the plug for the clothes dryer, electric oven, and perhaps an additional outlet at the EV-car panel.
Since this unit uses the C-19 input, I couldn't find a direct cord to 10-30P (dryer), so this can work (but please keep the cord/adapter as a taped unit to not accidentally use the polarized female):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081NNSFZS/?coliid=I39L7B118EXSW7&colid=2YFTH2S2GG08T&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl... [amazon.com]
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012ELTK8/?coliid=I1G4IQ1X66MO11&colid=2YFTH2S2GG08T&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl... [amazon.com]
If you need to run a longer extension cord, definitely maintain 12AWG thick wiring with GFCI (which outlets near kitchens/garages/washers should be).
Unless a 1400W+ PSU specifically states it needs a dedicated 20A 120VAC outlet (polarized), the PSU would limit 120V input current to 12-15A and output power will be "less".
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Edit: This is the power supply I'm using:
https://www.newegg.com/msi-mpg-a1...6817701016
Example, drawing 500w, is it going to be still at Platinum efficiency?
However if I am not mistaken Platinum & Titanium, etc part of the rating is maintaining a minimum efficiency across the spectrum.
Back in the day I did all the heavy lifting on the math for a Gold vs Titanium and even for me who uses a computer ALL the time the difference in purchase cost would not show a RIO in energy savings for nearly 10+ years.
So honestly I would just focus on getting a good quality PSU that has the features and capacity you need and not stress too much on the rating as long as it is Gold or higher (Silver tends to be cheaper PSU that I would not trust as much)
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I just go by what seems the convention of, "most 120V outlets should only pull 15A max, but since the line/breaker is shared across other outlets, 12A is max " - which alot of mega hair dryers like to push, back in the "Watt Wars", even if they have a built-in GCFI breaker and thermal cutoff, self-resettable.
I read better manuals from 1400+W PSU (Supermicro) where they don't meet advertised max power at 120V, so I was already pre-disappointed.
While I understand why they went with the C19, they should supply a (240V) adapter to at least show they care about what they market (Supermicro didn't provide a cord at all).
In the manual I linked in another post, the fan noise curve is 0dB until 750W, stayed at 5db until 900W.
All that said, perhaps today's HTPC no longer needs that much power (just an NUC?). From someone that barely tolerates a Supermicro (un)RAID chassis with whining fans, a noiseless build is something to appreciate.
In the manual I linked in another post, the fan noise curve is 0dB until 750W, stayed at 5db until 900W.
All that said, perhaps today's HTPC no longer needs that much power (just an NUC?). From someone that barely tolerates a Supermicro (un)RAID chassis with whining fans, a noiseless build is something to appreciate.
But things have changed so much, I replaced my HTPC with a Nvidia Shield years ago and have never needed or wanted a PC for that task again.
The big difference (besides small devices are so much better now) is that everything is streaming. Rather than need a big PC to store and play local files now you can stream from all your favorite subscription services, or in my case I also still have local playback with Plex.
The weakest link for HTPC is user interface. Wireless keyboard, mouse, remote with keyboard on it, etc it never was quite "family friendly" no matter how optimized I made it.
Per its quick start guide (page 5), the PSU can do 1200W:
https://res.cloudinary.com/corsai...SG_Web.pdf [cloudinary.com]
YMMV, 1500W _might be achieved using 250VAC- the plug for the clothes dryer, electric oven, and perhaps an additional outlet at the EV-car panel.
Since this unit uses the C-19 input, I couldn't find a direct cord to 10-30P (dryer), so this can work (but please keep the cord/adapter as a taped unit to not accidentally use the polarized female):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081NNSFZS/?coliid=I39L7B118EXSW7&colid=2YFTH2S2GG08T&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl... [amazon.com]
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012ELTK8/?coliid=I1G4IQ1X66MO11&colid=2YFTH2S2GG08T&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl... [amazon.com]
If you need to run a longer extension cord, definitely maintain 12AWG thick wiring with GFCI (which outlets near kitchens/garages/washers should be).
Unless a 1400W+ PSU specifically states it needs a dedicated 20A 120VAC outlet (polarized), the PSU would limit 120V input current to 12-15A and output power will be "less".
That is incorrect. Per your linked PDF 115-240VAC is indeed 1500 watts. The de-rated 1200watts is only for 100-115VAC inputs (which you should NOT be getting off the regular grid in the USA, you should be seeing ~120vac).
A standard 15amp household circuit will DEFINITELY run a 1500watt power supply (as long as you don't have anything else demanding on that same breaker). I've been running an EVGA supernova 1600Watt T2 80+ Titanium for a while now in my dual-cpu, dual-3090 rig plugged into a regular 15amp wallsocket without a single trip. Keep in mind 15ampsx120vac gives you ~300 watts of headroom BEYOND the overcurrent protection of this power supply. More importantly the REASON most people need a large power supply is not for sustained loads but to mitigate the transient spikes. So even though my sustained load is around 1kW, the 3090's are known to spike for a few milliseconds which would trip a smaller PSU.
FFS, do NOT listen to this jabroni and try to plug a computer into a dryer receptacle with an extension cord. There is zero reason to do so!
A standard 15amp household circuit will DEFINITELY run a 1500watt power supply (as long as you don't have anything else demanding on that same breaker). I've been running an EVGA supernova 1600Watt T2 80+ Titanium for a while now in my dual-cpu, dual-3090 rig plugged into a regular 15amp wallsocket without a single trip. Keep in mind 15ampsx120vac gives you ~300 watts of headroom BEYOND the overcurrent protection of this power supply. More importantly the REASON most people need a large power supply is not for sustained loads but to mitigate the transient spikes. So even though my sustained load is around 1kW, the 3090's are known to spike for a few milliseconds which would trip a smaller PSU.
FFS, do NOT listen to this jabroni and try to plug a computer into a dryer receptacle with an extension cord. There is zero reason to do so!
I stand corrected. This PSU should give 1500W at US single phase.
I thought my Supermicro PWS-2K01-PQ limited power to 1200W, but it also allows 1500W:
1200W (100-115Vac) // 1500W (115-200Vac) // 2000W (200-264Vac)
I'm on 100A PG&E service (newer homes are 200A), so I track loads and which outlets are sharing the same 15A breaker, careful about the quality of cords and what not to plug into the 13A surge suppressor outlet strip. Running out of breakers, my unused 240V outlet is looking for an excuse to be used.
I am surprised your EGA 1600W is willing to pull 17A (without a 20A 5-20P plug). To me, that's pushing it.
I should have trusted this/the Corsair manual, plus have better memory of my PSUs. I let my own experiences cloud my trust.
"jabroni"? "contemptible; stupid; loser". That's a new one. I might be conservative, and I might have experience with manufacturers being concerned about liability or perceived quality of operation, occasionally trying to save us from ourselves.
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