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The 5600X I bought is part of a PC build meant to be an Xmas gift for my nephews that I wanted to put together ahead of time while it was still in stock at a decent price. Don't feel bad a/b pay $100 more for your 5600X. Imagine buying a 5800X for $325 in 2021 on discount from a promotion only for it to sell today in 2023 at $180-$190 while on sale: welcome to my life, lol. I don't lose sleep over it; as technology gets older, it eventually gets replaced by something newer and better and the point of diminishing returns occurs, forcing it to be sold at a "bargain" which sucks for early adopters, but is a boon for "slickdealers". It's the nature of the beast which I've learned to accept.
This is actually a pretty good deal. I recently bought a 5600X for $130 during Prime Day and an AsRock mini-ITX motherboard for around $90 if that means anything, and you shouldn't have any issues w/ the quality of Asus AM4 motherboards.
The flashback BIOS feature allows you to update/flash the BIOS w/o accessing the BIOS or OS. You simply copy the BIOS file to the root of a USB flash drive and connect it to the designated flashback port on the motherboard and press the flashback button and you're off to the races.
This is actually a pretty good deal. I recently bought a 5600X for $130 during Prime Day and an AsRock mini-ITX motherboard for around $90 if that means anything, and you shouldn't have any issues w/ the quality of Asus AM4 motherboards.
Same here. I bought 2 5600x cpus for my kids gaming PCs paired with 3070s. They max out all video settings on every game with this setup. This combo is a great value if your looking to build a gaming PC.
I like the BIOS flashback button on it .. some may call this paranoia but you might want to take advantage of that and install the latest stable version of the BIOS that Asus offers for the motherboard on Asus's website , maybe order a cheap usb 2.0 thumb drive (I've heard some reports online of usb 3.0 not working sometimes for bios flash . in my case the usb 2.0 thumb drive bios flash didn't take too long anyways) if you don't have one lying around already at the same time... just to be on the safe side and make sure the MB has no problem recognizing the CPU when you install it.
I've also been told by the tom's hardware forum guys (who have never steered me wrong before) that while you could use the stock thermal paste that comes on the included CPU cooler apparently it's REALLY hard to separate it such that you can remove the CPU and replace it with a faster one later on... despite being the "older version" of the arctic thermal paste this is still effective and cheap at $6 a tube maybe order that too
and just grab some 90 percent rubbing alchohol and surprisingly enough paper coffee filters (I've been told on tom's hardware this is the best way to remove thermal paste so you don't leave behind cloth residue that can mess with the CPU cooling ) which are both cheap at your local Walmart and good to have around in case the CPU doesn't work or later on down the line when you swap out the CPU.
There's some debate about whether this or arguably "more bang for your buck" larger (2 TB) sized drives say without DRAM are better but my "go to" drives.. the samsung 970 evo plus and the crucial mx500 drives, each 1 TB, are still under $50 each
(though as others have warned the samsung 970 does run hot ... there's some debate online about what's a "safe" temp but some have reported the samsung hitting 50 and 60 degrees on a regular basis and still being just fine)
If you're a fan of programmable RGB I would check out the motherboard manual
I could be wrong but I think that's an 4 pin connection which is , according to my online internet research, an "older" port for RGB lighting that may not work with say a Lian Li 216 PC case for example ... so if you're buying RGB fans or what not double check them and see if they're compatible with the motherboard.
I did some more research, this is supposed to be an expensive but mostly good (maybe bad? check the amazon reviews) option where you just bypass the 4 pin RGB on the motherboard and connect all the RGB stuff up to this controller instead ... apparently you have to be very careful to place it just right if you use the included tape or it's real heck to remove the tape and place it elsewhere (note as well they don't include the screws you'd need to install it into a hard drive slot )
But you can order m3 screws pretty cheaply .. these are kind of small but include m3 screws to fasten a hard drive and m2 screws to screw in a m2 form factor ssd drive.. yep the asus MB will come with screws for that too, I found the darn things so difficult to use that I preferred spending the $5 for this set of screws and the included screwdriver (strongly recommend you have a magnet around like most PC builders should so you don't lose screws when screwing them in during your PC build .. I'm guessing you'd just have be careful not to touch the motherboard with the magnetized screw but I can say from experience a magnetized screwdriver makes pc building so much easier ! )
AM4 boards, even B450, aren't cheap at the moment, so this is a very solid deal. This is $10 cheaper than Micro Center's current 5600X + B450M DS3H Wifi which is an even more stripped-down board but does have WiFi. This along with anything from a 6600 XT to a 6800 XT would make for a great entry-to-upper-midrange build. With the lower-end GPUs you could get by with a 3600 or 5500, but here you have the CPU headroom to upgrade those and also a bit of a CPU upgrade path (to a 5800X3D) as well.
I don't think that's fully correct. One review on the newegg page shows a photo of the box, which has a blurb "Windows 11 Ready." There are online forums where people had older boards of this model and were able to install Win11 with BIOS updates & other settings changed.
The ASUS website even has Win11-specific drivers too.
Last edited by Hoseman666 September 24, 2023 at 12:00 PM.
This is a great deal to build a decent pc around. And still plenty of upgrade options on the processor down the track.
"plenty" as in 5600x3d or 5800x3d, and maybe 5900x, 5950x for more cores if you actually need the cores. that's it. not worth upgrading to 5700x or 5800x.
Bless your heart 🥲... Luckily, I bought myself a 1080Ti during BF for around $550 in 2018 which held me over while last gen GPUs were being scalped to kingdom come. Once prices stabilized to its original MSRP, I decided against buying NVIDIA and sided w/ AMD's offerings, and I bought some of their high-end GPUs at a "bargain": a new Asus Tuff 6800 XT at $612 in July 2022; a new XFX MERC 6950 XT at $567 in June 2023; an open box 6700 XT for $245 in Aug 2023.
I think I maxed out my "luck of the draw" for now. I got one fo the Cyberpower pc Asrock 5700xt Challenger D refurbs for 100$. I tested as soon as it came in. For some reason when i installed the AMD drivers (from the AMD website) it just stopped showing any video. Didn't work on my tester bench either, so I RMA-ed, and they sent back a "5700xt 12Gb !?". That is what it says on the sticker, but it looks exactly like a 6700xt Challenger Pro 12Gb. Smoke translucent fans, 3 fans not 2. And GPU-z tells me it's a 6700xt. The sticker on the card is the only thing that says "5700xt". I'm not sure what happened, but this one works, and i just wanted a working card.
I like the BIOS flashback button on it .. some may call this paranoia but you might want to take advantage of that and install the latest stable version of the BIOS that Asus offers for the motherboard on Asus's website , maybe order a cheap usb 2.0 thumb drive (I've heard some reports online of usb 3.0 not working sometimes for bios flash . in my case the usb 2.0 thumb drive bios flash didn't take too long anyways) if you don't have one lying around already at the same time... just to be on the safe side and make sure the MB has no problem recognizing the CPU when you install it.
I've also been told by the tom's hardware forum guys (who have never steered me wrong before) that while you could use the stock thermal paste that comes on the included CPU cooler apparently it's REALLY hard to separate it such that you can remove the CPU and replace it with a faster one later on... despite being the "older version" of the arctic thermal paste this is still effective and cheap at $6 a tube maybe order that too
and just grab some 90 percent rubbing alchohol and surprisingly enough paper coffee filters (I've been told on tom's hardware this is the best way to remove thermal paste so you don't leave behind cloth residue that can mess with the CPU cooling ) which are both cheap at your local Walmart and good to have around in case the CPU doesn't work or later on down the line when you swap out the CPU.
There's some debate about whether this or arguably "more bang for your buck" larger (2 TB) sized drives say without DRAM are better but my "go to" drives.. the samsung 970 evo plus and the crucial mx500 drives, each 1 TB, are still under $50 each
(though as others have warned the samsung 970 does run hot ... there's some debate online about what's a "safe" temp but some have reported the samsung hitting 50 and 60 degrees on a regular basis and still being just fine)
If you're a fan of programmable RGB I would check out the motherboard manual
I could be wrong but I think that's an 4 pin connection which is , according to my online internet research, an "older" port for RGB lighting that may not work with say a Lian Li 216 PC case for example ... so if you're buying RGB fans or what not double check them and see if they're compatible with the motherboard.
I did some more research, this is supposed to be an expensive but mostly good (maybe bad? check the amazon reviews) option where you just bypass the 4 pin RGB on the motherboard and connect all the RGB stuff up to this controller instead ... apparently you have to be very careful to place it just right if you use the included tape or it's real heck to remove the tape and place it elsewhere (note as well they don't include the screws you'd need to install it into a hard drive slot )
But you can order m3 screws pretty cheaply .. these are kind of small but include m3 screws to fasten a hard drive and m2 screws to screw in a m2 form factor ssd drive.. yep the asus MB will come with screws for that too, I found the darn things so difficult to use that I preferred spending the $5 for this set of screws and the included screwdriver (strongly recommend you have a magnet around like most PC builders should so you don't lose screws when screwing them in during your PC build .. I'm guessing you'd just have be careful not to touch the motherboard with the magnetized screw but I can say from experience a magnetized screwdriver makes pc building so much easier ! )
I've had no issues using USB 3 drives on AM4/5 boards for the last few years, either for flash updates or for OS installation. (Well, except for those damn Samsung drives that are only the size of the USB connector ... those overheat and will literally fall apart because they melt the glue holding themselves together. Had to remove the remnants of one with needle nose pliers.)
The likelihood that this board won't already have a Vermeer-compatible BIOS and that you'd need to flash it before it will recognize the CPU is so close to zero its not even worth talking about. Just slap the CPU in and you'll be fine. I promise.
The thermal paste can in fact rip your CPU out of the socket, but a) there's very little danger in this (it won't harm the CPU pins as long as you don't do something else to them) and b) it means you're doing it wrong. Twist the cooler to "break" the tension before pulling it away from the motherboard. I've ripped a few AM4 CPUs out of the socket this way, and they're all fine. And for the record, I don't think the thermal paste is really the culprit as most of them were installed with Artic MX5, not the AMD-supplied paste. I just twist the coolers off now to avoid this, because it's a pain in the ass to get the CPU unglued from the cooler if it comes out this way.
Obsessing about the effectiveness of thermal paste, to the point of worrying about "cloth residue" left behind from cleaning it is utterly useless. Unless you're trying to break world records with LN2, just use some paper towels and leave worrying about thermal paste impurities to the neckbeards.
Not gonna touch the RGB stuff, cause I don't care and just turn it all off. SSD preference is mostly just that. Any decent PCIe4 drive is going to be pretty competitive and their failure rates are a tiny fraction of old mechanical drives. For my money, I'd go with the bigger drives (2TB minimum as far as I'm concerned these days).
Magnetic screwdrivers are completely fine as long as you're not using magnetic storage (i.e., old spindle hard drives). There's no problem using magnetic stuff around your motherboard.
Last edited by CummingsSM September 24, 2023 at 01:55 PM.
1. Is it recommended even if you are using it as a side PC to be used less frequently. PC not to be used for high end games.
2. Is this CPU only good if you overlock or it;'s a good value even when not overclocking?
1. The included cooler is fine.
2. Manually overclocking Ryzen is a waste of time for almost everyone.
Ryzen CPUs are designed to "overclock" themselves within reason depending on the power and thermal headroom your motherboard, cooler, and environment provide. If you want absolutely maximum performance, you want a beefy motherboard with over-engineered power circuitry and a strong cooler. But if that's what you're going for, you shouldn't be buying a 6c CPU that's a generation and a half old.
This is a great value as-is. No need to buy an expensive cooler for it, though you might get a small performance boost if you do.
Look up "PBO" if you want to push the CPU harder. Or else just install it and forget about because you probably wouldn't notice the difference anyway.
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Not any kind of "deal" these days.
Not any kind of "deal" these days.
I've also been told by the tom's hardware forum guys (who have never steered me wrong before) that while you could use the stock thermal paste that comes on the included CPU cooler apparently it's REALLY hard to separate it such that you can remove the CPU and replace it with a faster one later on... despite being the "older version" of the arctic thermal paste this is still effective and cheap at $6 a tube maybe order that too
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product...UTF8&
and just grab some 90 percent rubbing alchohol and surprisingly enough paper coffee filters (I've been told on tom's hardware this is the best way to remove thermal paste so you don't leave behind cloth residue that can mess with the CPU cooling ) which are both cheap at your local Walmart and good to have around in case the CPU doesn't work or later on down the line when you swap out the CPU.
There's some debate about whether this or arguably "more bang for your buck" larger (2 TB) sized drives say without DRAM are better but my "go to" drives.. the samsung 970 evo plus and the crucial mx500 drives, each 1 TB, are still under $50 each
(though as others have warned the samsung 970 does run hot ... there's some debate online about what's a "safe" temp but some have reported the samsung hitting 50 and 60 degrees on a regular basis and still being just fine)
If you're a fan of programmable RGB I would check out the motherboard manual
https://dlcdnets.asus.c
I could be wrong but I think that's an 4 pin connection which is , according to my online internet research, an "older" port for RGB lighting that may not work with say a Lian Li 216 PC case for example ... so if you're buying RGB fans or what not double check them and see if they're compatible with the motherboard.
I did some more research, this is supposed to be an expensive but mostly good (maybe bad? check the amazon reviews) option where you just bypass the 4 pin RGB on the motherboard and connect all the RGB stuff up to this controller instead ... apparently you have to be very careful to place it just right if you use the included tape or it's real heck to remove the tape and place it elsewhere (note as well they don't include the screws you'd need to install it into a hard drive slot )
https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Chro...op?ie=UT
https://dl.razerzone.co
But you can order m3 screws pretty cheaply .. these are kind of small but include m3 screws to fasten a hard drive and m2 screws to screw in a m2 form factor ssd drive.. yep the asus MB will come with screws for that too, I found the darn things so difficult to use that I preferred spending the $5 for this set of screws and the included screwdriver (strongly recommend you have a magnet around like most PC builders should so you don't lose screws when screwing them in during your PC build .. I'm guessing you'd just have be careful not to touch the motherboard with the magnetized screw but I can say from experience a magnetized screwdriver makes pc building so much easier ! )
https://www.amazon.com/2280ssd-Sc...op?ie=UTF8
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product...0DER&
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
The ASUS website even has Win11-specific drivers too.
2. Is this CPU only good if you overlock or it;'s a good value even when not overclocking?
I've also been told by the tom's hardware forum guys (who have never steered me wrong before) that while you could use the stock thermal paste that comes on the included CPU cooler apparently it's REALLY hard to separate it such that you can remove the CPU and replace it with a faster one later on... despite being the "older version" of the arctic thermal paste this is still effective and cheap at $6 a tube maybe order that too
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product...UTF8&
and just grab some 90 percent rubbing alchohol and surprisingly enough paper coffee filters (I've been told on tom's hardware this is the best way to remove thermal paste so you don't leave behind cloth residue that can mess with the CPU cooling ) which are both cheap at your local Walmart and good to have around in case the CPU doesn't work or later on down the line when you swap out the CPU.
There's some debate about whether this or arguably "more bang for your buck" larger (2 TB) sized drives say without DRAM are better but my "go to" drives.. the samsung 970 evo plus and the crucial mx500 drives, each 1 TB, are still under $50 each
(though as others have warned the samsung 970 does run hot ... there's some debate online about what's a "safe" temp but some have reported the samsung hitting 50 and 60 degrees on a regular basis and still being just fine)
If you're a fan of programmable RGB I would check out the motherboard manual
https://dlcdnets.asus.c
I could be wrong but I think that's an 4 pin connection which is , according to my online internet research, an "older" port for RGB lighting that may not work with say a Lian Li 216 PC case for example ... so if you're buying RGB fans or what not double check them and see if they're compatible with the motherboard.
I did some more research, this is supposed to be an expensive but mostly good (maybe bad? check the amazon reviews) option where you just bypass the 4 pin RGB on the motherboard and connect all the RGB stuff up to this controller instead ... apparently you have to be very careful to place it just right if you use the included tape or it's real heck to remove the tape and place it elsewhere (note as well they don't include the screws you'd need to install it into a hard drive slot )
https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Chro...op?ie=UT
https://dl.razerzone.co
But you can order m3 screws pretty cheaply .. these are kind of small but include m3 screws to fasten a hard drive and m2 screws to screw in a m2 form factor ssd drive.. yep the asus MB will come with screws for that too, I found the darn things so difficult to use that I preferred spending the $5 for this set of screws and the included screwdriver (strongly recommend you have a magnet around like most PC builders should so you don't lose screws when screwing them in during your PC build .. I'm guessing you'd just have be careful not to touch the motherboard with the magnetized screw but I can say from experience a magnetized screwdriver makes pc building so much easier ! )
https://www.amazon.com/2280ssd-Sc...op?ie=UTF8
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product...0DER&
I've had no issues using USB 3 drives on AM4/5 boards for the last few years, either for flash updates or for OS installation. (Well, except for those damn Samsung drives that are only the size of the USB connector ... those overheat and will literally fall apart because they melt the glue holding themselves together. Had to remove the remnants of one with needle nose pliers.)
The likelihood that this board won't already have a Vermeer-compatible BIOS and that you'd need to flash it before it will recognize the CPU is so close to zero its not even worth talking about. Just slap the CPU in and you'll be fine. I promise.
The thermal paste can in fact rip your CPU out of the socket, but a) there's very little danger in this (it won't harm the CPU pins as long as you don't do something else to them) and b) it means you're doing it wrong. Twist the cooler to "break" the tension before pulling it away from the motherboard. I've ripped a few AM4 CPUs out of the socket this way, and they're all fine. And for the record, I don't think the thermal paste is really the culprit as most of them were installed with Artic MX5, not the AMD-supplied paste. I just twist the coolers off now to avoid this, because it's a pain in the ass to get the CPU unglued from the cooler if it comes out this way.
Obsessing about the effectiveness of thermal paste, to the point of worrying about "cloth residue" left behind from cleaning it is utterly useless. Unless you're trying to break world records with LN2, just use some paper towels and leave worrying about thermal paste impurities to the neckbeards.
Not gonna touch the RGB stuff, cause I don't care and just turn it all off. SSD preference is mostly just that. Any decent PCIe4 drive is going to be pretty competitive and their failure rates are a tiny fraction of old mechanical drives. For my money, I'd go with the bigger drives (2TB minimum as far as I'm concerned these days).
Magnetic screwdrivers are completely fine as long as you're not using magnetic storage (i.e., old spindle hard drives). There's no problem using magnetic stuff around your motherboard.
2. Is this CPU only good if you overlock or it;'s a good value even when not overclocking?
2. Manually overclocking Ryzen is a waste of time for almost everyone.
Ryzen CPUs are designed to "overclock" themselves within reason depending on the power and thermal headroom your motherboard, cooler, and environment provide. If you want absolutely maximum performance, you want a beefy motherboard with over-engineered power circuitry and a strong cooler. But if that's what you're going for, you shouldn't be buying a 6c CPU that's a generation and a half old.
This is a great value as-is. No need to buy an expensive cooler for it, though you might get a small performance boost if you do.
Look up "PBO" if you want to push the CPU harder. Or else just install it and forget about because you probably wouldn't notice the difference anyway.
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