Hmm wouldn't KEF Q350 be better option at $500 when on sale? $800 for these seems high.
This is hardly any kind of blowout/close out sale. These prices are just back to the pre-pandemic/pre-inflation prices. Nothing to write home about.
Which is fine by me because it means my mint condition Ultra bookshelves in gloss white still have good value.
I want these speakers. $800+ tax a pair is just an inch from what I'm willing to spend though. At $800 i have to open the door to looking at a billion more speakers at that price or more. I just bought the prime elevation and waiting for them in the mail.
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There are some whacko audiophiles who think it actually makes a difference (the audiophile world is full of snake oil nonsense). Most people agree it doesn't do a damn thing and hardly anyone with bi-wire capable terminals actually uses them.
I believe you meant to say they are capable of being bi-wired.
You left off bi-amped, they can be wired that way also.
Just stating facts for those that are interested. If you're sitting close enough then a low sensitivity speaker will be just fine. So if you're sitting a couple meters away I'm sure it will be just fine. For those that are sitting further away I would implore them to actually do the math and figure out exactly how much power they will need to run whichever speakers they want to use.
Great. Sensitivity is a factor for some, especially when it's very low. Add in low impedance and it's way more important. These SVS and the d15's are right in the middle of the range of sensitivity. Low 80's is "low" and 90 or higher is considered "high".
You can calculate power requirements based on sensitivity, but the X factor is your room's acoustic. Easier to drive a low sensitivity speaker in a "live" room vs "dead" room. Much of what you hear are reflections off the walls. The room's size is also a factor.
Had ultra towers, ultra center, and non-ultra bookshelves. Sold them all. Great customer service. Very good product. Just wanted a little more.
Their sub I still own. Had 2, sold one. The one I kept broke, I messaged SVS, outside the warranty they still sent out a replacement part with instructions and the tools required to replace a large, expensive part.
For that I'll never shit on SVS. They have very good products. I spent much more to get better quality, but they are great at their price points. Especially the subwoofers.
I have these in a 2.1 home theater/music/streaming set up. Excellent speakers. The metallic tweeter and frequency response is perfect for tricky film sound effects mixed together with dialogue. Anyone who has ever heard them is blown away and has told me they felt like they were in a movie theater. They are also very capable for music.
Great. Sensitivity is a factor for some, especially when it's very low. Add in low impedance and it's way more important. These SVS and the d15's are right in the middle of the range of sensitivity. Low 80's is "low" and 90 or higher is considered "high".
You can calculate power requirements based on sensitivity, but the X factor is your room's acoustic. Easier to drive a low sensitivity speaker in a "live" room vs "dead" room. Much of what you hear are reflections off the walls. The room's size is also a factor.
I would definitely argue that low to mid 80s is considered low, high 80s is considered medium, and 90s is considered high.
Most people are going to be running these off of their AVR and in any multi-channel setup that's just trouble. I'm currently running 98dB sensitivity speakers and will never look back! Haha.
I would definitely argue that low to mid 80s is considered low, high 80s is considered medium, and 90s is considered high.
Most people are going to be running these off of their AVR and in any multi-channel setup that's just trouble. I'm currently running 98dB sensitivity speakers and will never look back! Haha.
Which speakers are you using?
I don't think ppl running these off of a midrange to upper level brand name AVR's will have much trouble. Many ppl will be using subwoofers, which takes a huge load off of these speakers. Bass frequencies use the most wattage by far.
And for the even less sensitive D15's I use, I use a denon x3800 with zero issues. And that's without subs.
Again, the room plays a huge role in what you hear. Half or more of what you hear are wall reflections.
According to that snake oil salesman as soon as you buy speakers from Focal, Emotiva, Dynaudio, Bowers and Wilkins, Jamo, KEF, Klipsch, Paradigm, Monolith, Polk, Revel, SVS, Sony, Wharfedale, Elac, etc. the first thing you need to do is go to him so that he can sell you $400 worth of parts to "fix" a problem that is not there. I must admit, he is running a pretty clever racket but he has long been exposed as a fraud all over audio forums.
I don't think ppl running these off of a midrange to upper level brand name AVR's will have much trouble. Many ppl will be using subwoofers, which takes a huge load off of these speakers. Bass frequencies use the most wattage by far.
And for the even less sensitive D15's I use, I use a denon x3800 with zero issues. And that's without subs.
Again, the room plays a huge role in what you hear. Half or more of what you hear are wall reflections.
I'm running some custom DIYSG speakers.
I'm fairly certain the average person on Slickdeals is running this on a Denon/Pioneer/Onkyo and not a high end AVR. Most AVRs are less than 125 Watts for 2 channels driven (not all channels)
I'm fairly certain the average person on Slickdeals is running this on a Denon/Pioneer/Onkyo and not a high end AVR. Most AVRs are less than 125 Watts for 2 channels driven (not all channels)
People often grossly overestimate the actual wattage they need. Most listening is done at a handful of watts. Add a subwoofer to the mix and the power needs are cut dramatically.
How did you test your speaker's sensitivity?
What do you use for surrounds? I got 4 of the ultra surrounds recently, haven't connected yet.
NHT SuperZero 2.1 i found cheap locally. Planning on either a pair of Ultra Bookshelves or Prime satellites. I'm sure the Ultra surrounds rip but my room is quite wide which makes the bipole ultra surrounds not a great fit vs monopole bookshelves.
Quote
from shintax
:
Good speakers but not ideal if you don't like bright sound as these have metal tweeters.
I'm quite sensitive to bright/sibilant speakers and have returned several speakers for that reason. SVS Prime or Ultra speakers are not bright or fatiguing at all to me, but remain very detailed. I avoided SVS speakers for years because of their tweeter material, but after hearing my friend's Prime bookshelves that he got for his record collection I was sold. I was surprised I enjoyed how the SVS prime's sounded, because not everyone online loves them. Its always good to try out multiple speakers in your space, because the sound that YOU prefer is the only opinion that matters.
At no point over the past several months have I had any sort of fatigue from my Ultras across music, movies, tv, or games. They have been my stop off of the audiophile train. Impeccable sound as far as I'm concerned without being super specific on placement or what hardware I'm using to drive them.
NHT SuperZero 2.1 i found cheap locally. Planning on either a pair of Ultra Bookshelves or Prime satellites. I'm sure the Ultra surrounds rip but my room is quite wide which makes the bipole ultra surrounds not a great fit vs monopole bookshelves.
I'm quite sensitive to bright/sibilant speakers and have returned several speakers for that reason. SVS Prime or Ultra speakers are not bright or fatiguing at all to me, but remain very detailed. I avoided SVS speakers for years because of their tweeter material, but after hearing my friend's Prime bookshelves that he got for his record collection I was sold. I was surprised I enjoyed how the SVS prime's sounded, because not everyone online loves them. Its always good to try out multiple speakers in your space, because the sound that YOU prefer is the only opinion that matters.
At no point over the past several months have I had any sort of fatigue from my Ultras across music, movies, tv, or games. They have been my stop off of the audiophile train. Impeccable sound as far as I'm concerned without being super specific on placement or what hardware I'm using to drive them.
Wondering if I should get the Ultra towers and center before they're gone... I've got Polk Audio Rti12 & Csi5 for the front. Not too worried about timber matching for the surrounds, but FOMO kicking in a bit.
People often grossly overestimate the actual wattage they need. Most listening is done at a handful of watts. Add a subwoofer to the mix and the power needs are cut dramatically.
How did you test your speaker's sensitivity?
Interestingly, depending on the location of their speakers and MLP, I've noticed the opposite where people actually underestimate them. A subwoofer is fine for LFE, but I would recommend everyone to look at the sensitivity of their drivers/speakers across all frequencies.
I ran my own tests with REW and UMIK, but did have Erin (from EAC) do a separate independent tests to ensure my speakers were built correctly.
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Which is fine by me because it means my mint condition Ultra bookshelves in gloss white still have good value.
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There are some whacko audiophiles who think it actually makes a difference (the audiophile world is full of snake oil nonsense). Most people agree it doesn't do a damn thing and hardly anyone with bi-wire capable terminals actually uses them.
You left off bi-amped, they can be wired that way also.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=kVk...R
Great. Sensitivity is a factor for some, especially when it's very low. Add in low impedance and it's way more important. These SVS and the d15's are right in the middle of the range of sensitivity. Low 80's is "low" and 90 or higher is considered "high".
You can calculate power requirements based on sensitivity, but the X factor is your room's acoustic. Easier to drive a low sensitivity speaker in a "live" room vs "dead" room. Much of what you hear are reflections off the walls. The room's size is also a factor.
Their sub I still own. Had 2, sold one. The one I kept broke, I messaged SVS, outside the warranty they still sent out a replacement part with instructions and the tools required to replace a large, expensive part.
For that I'll never shit on SVS. They have very good products. I spent much more to get better quality, but they are great at their price points. Especially the subwoofers.
You can calculate power requirements based on sensitivity, but the X factor is your room's acoustic. Easier to drive a low sensitivity speaker in a "live" room vs "dead" room. Much of what you hear are reflections off the walls. The room's size is also a factor.
I would definitely argue that low to mid 80s is considered low, high 80s is considered medium, and 90s is considered high.
Most people are going to be running these off of their AVR and in any multi-channel setup that's just trouble. I'm currently running 98dB sensitivity speakers and will never look back! Haha.
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Most people are going to be running these off of their AVR and in any multi-channel setup that's just trouble. I'm currently running 98dB sensitivity speakers and will never look back! Haha.
Which speakers are you using?
I don't think ppl running these off of a midrange to upper level brand name AVR's will have much trouble. Many ppl will be using subwoofers, which takes a huge load off of these speakers. Bass frequencies use the most wattage by far.
And for the even less sensitive D15's I use, I use a denon x3800 with zero issues. And that's without subs.
Again, the room plays a huge role in what you hear. Half or more of what you hear are wall reflections.
I don't think ppl running these off of a midrange to upper level brand name AVR's will have much trouble. Many ppl will be using subwoofers, which takes a huge load off of these speakers. Bass frequencies use the most wattage by far.
And for the even less sensitive D15's I use, I use a denon x3800 with zero issues. And that's without subs.
Again, the room plays a huge role in what you hear. Half or more of what you hear are wall reflections.
I'm running some custom DIYSG speakers.
I'm fairly certain the average person on Slickdeals is running this on a Denon/Pioneer/Onkyo and not a high end AVR. Most AVRs are less than 125 Watts for 2 channels driven (not all channels)
I'm fairly certain the average person on Slickdeals is running this on a Denon/Pioneer/Onkyo and not a high end AVR. Most AVRs are less than 125 Watts for 2 channels driven (not all channels)
People often grossly overestimate the actual wattage they need. Most listening is done at a handful of watts. Add a subwoofer to the mix and the power needs are cut dramatically.
How did you test your speaker's sensitivity?
At no point over the past several months have I had any sort of fatigue from my Ultras across music, movies, tv, or games. They have been my stop off of the audiophile train. Impeccable sound as far as I'm concerned without being super specific on placement or what hardware I'm using to drive them.
I'm quite sensitive to bright/sibilant speakers and have returned several speakers for that reason. SVS Prime or Ultra speakers are not bright or fatiguing at all to me, but remain very detailed. I avoided SVS speakers for years because of their tweeter material, but after hearing my friend's Prime bookshelves that he got for his record collection I was sold. I was surprised I enjoyed how the SVS prime's sounded, because not everyone online loves them. Its always good to try out multiple speakers in your space, because the sound that YOU prefer is the only opinion that matters.
At no point over the past several months have I had any sort of fatigue from my Ultras across music, movies, tv, or games. They have been my stop off of the audiophile train. Impeccable sound as far as I'm concerned without being super specific on placement or what hardware I'm using to drive them.
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How did you test your speaker's sensitivity?
I ran my own tests with REW and UMIK, but did have Erin (from EAC) do a separate independent tests to ensure my speakers were built correctly.