These frames are super mass produced under a variety of brand names, there is nothing particularly special about these frames. That being said I am a huge fan of these because they are actually repairable and upgradeable.. The standardized headset, BB, and Disc brakes make this IMO a solid buy at this price. If you want to upgrade you can get some Shimano hydraulic brakes for $40. If suspension is a concern you can throw on a $50-60 Suntour NCX suspension seatpost to help out there. Other than that I wouldn't touch much else.
If you have some mechanical inclination buy the H1 model for $50 less and throw a 9/10 Speed Shimano CUES on it for an extra $70-90.
After reading through countless shitty bike threads over the past few weeks, I think this might be the shitty bike for me.
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Really no reviews on this that I can find, except for the ones on the website which look fake as hell... Is it any better than the hybrid bikes at Walmart for around the same price? I know almost nothing about bikes but will mainly be using to ride around with the kids on non-hilly streets and light terrain.
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03-19-2024 at 08:35 AM.
Quote
from magnafides
:
Really no reviews on this that I can find, except for the ones on the website which look fake as hell... Is it any better than the hybrid bikes at Walmart for around the same price? I know almost nothing about bikes but will mainly be using to ride around with the kids on non-hilly streets and light terrain.
These frames are super mass produced under a variety of brand names, there is nothing particularly special about these frames. That being said I am a huge fan of these because they are actually repairable and upgradeable.. The standardized headset, BB, and Disc brakes make this IMO a solid buy at this price. If you want to upgrade you can get some Shimano hydraulic brakes for $40. If suspension is a concern you can throw on a $50-60 Suntour NCX suspension seatpost to help out there. Other than that I wouldn't touch much else.
If you have some mechanical inclination buy the H1 model for $50 less and throw a 9/10 Speed Shimano CUES on it for an extra $70-90.
These frames are super mass produced under a variety of brand names, there is nothing particularly special about these frames. That being said I am a huge fan of these because they are actually repairable and upgradeable.. The standardized headset, BB, and Disc brakes make this IMO a solid buy at this price. If you want to upgrade you can get some Shimano hydraulic brakes for $40 on and a Shimano linkglide 10speed for another $80 off aliexpress. If suspension is a concern you can throw on a $50-60 Suntour NCX suspension seatpost to help out there.
Mechanical disks are easier to maintain and will work fine for 95% of the bikers who will get this. The microshift this comes with his decent tnough, I think comparable to alivo. That NCX suspension suggestion you made is excellent! I'm half tempted to buy this bike to upgrade it with the $133 bafang BBS02 750w mid-drive kit with battery I bought a few days ago. Would prefer little nicer bike from FB marketplace but very few choices in $300-$500 budget there for gravel or hybrid bikes like this.
Depends on how mechanically inclined you are. If you have the tools to remove a rear cassette I would save the $50 and upgrade the drivetrain to a 9 or 10 speed Shimano Cues. Otherwise it is worth it for the additional gear. But that is the only difference between the two.
looks like 11 - 34T rear 9 speed with 38T no front derailleur, so I hope you live someplace flat.
Plenty of range. I rode Tour Das Hugel with a slightly worse gearing ratio https://www.dashugel.bike/route/das-hugel
If you are a weenie you can replace the front 38T with a ~$10 34T from amazon
i too have been on a hunt for a decent ebike conversion candidate from the bafang deal a few days back. there have also been a slew of other deals like the diamondback and gt's from dick's. i've seriously been down the same hunt as danimalz and constantly scouring fb marketplace/craigslist/offer up. the debate i have is whether to try and find a cargo bike used and one of these; or just be done with a his and her model of the h1. for those who jump on this one try the code IMBACK for %5 off.
Plenty of range. I rode Tour Das Hugel with a slightly worse gearing ratio https://www.dashugel.bike/route/das-hugel
If you are a weenie you can replace the front 38T with a ~$10 34T from amazon
for most people buying a $250 bike who are not used to 110 mile super hilly bike rides:
This is not a hill friendly bike.
For most beginners, hills are the thing they hate most, and having decent gearing overcomes that.
Yes you can replace the front crank, if you are willing to sacrifice speed down hills.
But it's not about beeing a weenie, some people weigh more and prefer a higher cadence and don't want to put that much pressure on their knees. If you're a 100 lb in-shape teenager then yeah, this bike is very versatile.
for most people buying a $250 bike who are not used to 110 mile super hilly bike rides:
This is not a hill friendly bike.
For most beginners, hills are the thing they hate most, and having decent gearing overcomes that.
Yes you can replace the front crank, if you are willing to sacrifice speed down hills.
But it's not about beeing a weenie, some people weigh more and prefer a higher cadence and don't want to put that much pressure on their knees. If you're a 100 lb in-shape teenager then yeah, this bike is very versatile.
Most people don't use the first gear on hills unless it's REALLY steep. Usually 2-3 works fine. Or are you talking about finding a gear that's not too small but not too big either?
Most people don't use the first gear on hills unless it's REALLY steep.
That's not my experience for non-everyday cyclists. Where I live there are a few 10% grades, and 5% grades aren't uncommon. Bikes with low gearing are just a lot more enjoyable if you're not racing, there's no need to exert any more energy on a hill, you can just sit in the saddle and peddle at your normal cadence.
On an old cheap mountain bike you might have a small front 24 and a large rear 32 = 0.75, and maybe you don't need need 1st gear if you prefer a slow cadence and getting out of the saddle. But this bike is 38 front and 34 rear = 1.11, which is a completely different animal. The old 26" mountain bike tire diameter helped a little too.
They saved a few bucks omitting the front derailleur and a second crank, but they really crippled the versatility in the process.
On flat ground, absolutely, I'd prefer to get rid of the hassle of a cheap front derailleur.
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If you have some mechanical inclination buy the H1 model for $50 less and throw a 9/10 Speed Shimano CUES on it for an extra $70-90.
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank fisc2307
If you have some mechanical inclination buy the H1 model for $50 less and throw a 9/10 Speed Shimano CUES on it for an extra $70-90.
Is this worth $50 more than the H1?
https://kent.bike/products/700c-m...1879064733
Is this worth $50 more than the H1?
https://kent.bike/products/700c-m...1879064733 [kent.bike]
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If you are a weenie you can replace the front 38T with a ~$10 34T from amazon
If you are a weenie you can replace the front 38T with a ~$10 34T from amazon
This is not a hill friendly bike.
For most beginners, hills are the thing they hate most, and having decent gearing overcomes that.
Yes you can replace the front crank, if you are willing to sacrifice speed down hills.
But it's not about beeing a weenie, some people weigh more and prefer a higher cadence and don't want to put that much pressure on their knees. If you're a 100 lb in-shape teenager then yeah, this bike is very versatile.
This is not a hill friendly bike.
For most beginners, hills are the thing they hate most, and having decent gearing overcomes that.
Yes you can replace the front crank, if you are willing to sacrifice speed down hills.
But it's not about beeing a weenie, some people weigh more and prefer a higher cadence and don't want to put that much pressure on their knees. If you're a 100 lb in-shape teenager then yeah, this bike is very versatile.
On an old cheap mountain bike you might have a small front 24 and a large rear 32 = 0.75, and maybe you don't need need 1st gear if you prefer a slow cadence and getting out of the saddle. But this bike is 38 front and 34 rear = 1.11, which is a completely different animal. The old 26" mountain bike tire diameter helped a little too.
They saved a few bucks omitting the front derailleur and a second crank, but they really crippled the versatility in the process.
On flat ground, absolutely, I'd prefer to get rid of the hassle of a cheap front derailleur.