Kent Bicycles has
700c Metro Bicycles H2 Hybrid Bike (Men's, Various Sizes) for
$249.99.
Shipping is free.
Kent Bicycles has
700c Metro Bicycles H2 Hybrid Bike (Women's, Various Sizes) for
$249.99.
Shipping is free.
Thanks to Staff Member
the-press-box for finding this deal.
Men's recommended sizing:- Medium - 5'5" - 5'10"
- Large - 5'10" - 6'2"
- Extra Large - 6'3" - 6'7"
Women's recommended sizing:- Small - 4'11" - 5'5"
- Medium - 5'3" - 5'8"
Features:- Lightweight Aluminum Frame
- Lightweight Aluminum Fork
- Front & Rear Mechanical Disc Brakes
- Stainless Steel Spokes
- Rubber Comfort Grips
- 350mm Alloy Seat Post
- Road Saddle
- Microshift Marvo 9 Speed Microshift Drivetrain
- Trigger Shifter
- 3pc Alloy Crank
- 700 x 40mm Multi-Use Tires
- Alloy Double-Wall-Wheels
Top Comments
If you have some mechanical inclination buy the H1 model for $50 less and throw a 9/10 Speed Shimano CUES on it for an extra $70-90.
Let's make sure we're talking about the same things first.
The shaft that has the reflector attached to it is called the "seatpost".
The part of the bicycle frame that it slides up and down inside is the "seat tube".
The clamp at the top of the seat tube that you loosen to slide the seatpost up and down is called the "seatpost clamp."
The thing you actually sit on, and that you've already removed in the picture, is called the "saddle."
The two metal pieces that clamp around the rails of the saddle, and attach it to the seatpost, are called the "saddle clamp" or "saddle rail clamp." There is also a metal nut that sits atop the clamp, and a bolt that goes into the clamp from below. You've removed all of those in the picture.
You've disassembled the seatpost as far as possible.
There is nothing else to disassemble and there is no button to press.
To adjust the seat up and down, you loosen the bolt on the seatpost clamp with a metric Allen wrench. It's probably 5mm. It will always be metric.
Then you slide the seatpost up or down, inside the seat tube, until it's where you want it. Then you make sure the nose of the seat is pointing exactly straight, and tighten down the bolt on the seatpost clamp.
There will be a circle marked around the seatpost, near the bottom end, that will usually say something like "Minimum Insertion." That circle should never be visible above the seat tube. If you need to raise the seat higher than that, you need a longer seatpost.
You can buy "quick release" seatpost clamps that let you adjust height without an Allen wrench. If you want one of these, the seat tube diameter is 31.8mm, so you want a "31.8mm quick release seatpost clamp."
To replace the seat, you've already done most of the work. You've already unscrewed and removed the 6mm bolt that holds on the saddle clamp, and you've already removed the two pieces of the saddle clamp itself as well as the nut.
To install a new saddle, place the bottom half of the saddle clamp on top of the seatpost, where it was originally. You can tell the bottom half because it'll have teeth that mate with the teeth in the top of the seatpost, and a long slot instead of a single hole.
Then you place the rails of the new saddle onto the obvious channels in the bottom half of the saddle clamp.
Then you place the top half of the seatpost clamp over the top of the rails.
Then you place the nut atop the top half of the clamp, in the obvious groove.
Then you have to push the bolt back through from below and get it started in the nut, which can be tricky. It can help to have someone else hold the saddle and saddle clamps in place while you do this.
Then you adjust the tilt of the seat (should be roughly flat to the ground) and the forward/backward position of the seat.
Then you tighten down the 6mm nut. Tighten it down well once you've got the tilt and position right, as it tends to work loose.
You're done!
To adjust the new seat once it's installed, you don't have to take the clamp all the way off. Just loosen that bolt until the clamp opens enough to get over the teeth.
Hope this helps!
283 Comments
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank fisc2307
If you have some mechanical inclination buy the H1 model for $50 less and throw a 9/10 Speed Shimano CUES on it for an extra $70-90.
Is this worth $50 more than the H1?
https://kent.bike/products/700c-m...1879064733
Is this worth $50 more than the H1?
https://kent.bike/products/700c-m...1879064733 [kent.bike]
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If you are a weenie you can replace the front 38T with a ~$10 34T from amazon
If you are a weenie you can replace the front 38T with a ~$10 34T from amazon
This is not a hill friendly bike.
For most beginners, hills are the thing they hate most, and having decent gearing overcomes that.
Yes you can replace the front crank, if you are willing to sacrifice speed down hills.
But it's not about beeing a weenie, some people weigh more and prefer a higher cadence and don't want to put that much pressure on their knees. If you're a 100 lb in-shape teenager then yeah, this bike is very versatile.
This is not a hill friendly bike.
For most beginners, hills are the thing they hate most, and having decent gearing overcomes that.
Yes you can replace the front crank, if you are willing to sacrifice speed down hills.
But it's not about beeing a weenie, some people weigh more and prefer a higher cadence and don't want to put that much pressure on their knees. If you're a 100 lb in-shape teenager then yeah, this bike is very versatile.
On an old cheap mountain bike you might have a small front 24 and a large rear 32 = 0.75, and maybe you don't need need 1st gear if you prefer a slow cadence and getting out of the saddle. But this bike is 38 front and 34 rear = 1.11, which is a completely different animal. The old 26" mountain bike tire diameter helped a little too.
They saved a few bucks omitting the front derailleur and a second crank, but they really crippled the versatility in the process.
On flat ground, absolutely, I'd prefer to get rid of the hassle of a cheap front derailleur.
Headwinds are the real morale killer - like an invisible hill with no end. The worst is a long loop ride you plan so you're dealing with the headwind on the way out when your legs are still fresh ... and then the wind shifts mid-ride. DAMHIKT
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