Tesla has dropped the base price of the Tesla Model Y from $44,990 down to $40,490. All Model Y vehicles also qualify for the $7,500 Federal Tax Credit (details here).
Thanks to Community Member xTorquEx for finding this deal.
Available models:
Tesla Model Y (Standard Range) from $40,490
Tesla Model Y (Long Range) from $44,990
Tesla Model Y (Performance Dual Motor All-Wheel Drive) from $48,140
To qualify for the federal tax credit, one must not exceed the following adjusted gross income limits:
$300,000 for married couples filing jointly
$225,000 for heads of households
$150,000 for all other filers
The tax credit is not refundable, which means one must have federal tax due to take advantage of it. If the tax due is less than the credit amount, one can only claim the credit up to the amount of the tax due.
This collaborative space allows users to contribute additional information, tips, and insights to enhance the original deal post. Feel free to share your knowledge and help fellow shoppers make informed decisions.
Rebates depend on region. In California, discount is up to $7200 for RWD Y.
Last Updated by desi_babu_2010 on 04-06-2024 at 09:15 PM
Tesla has dropped the base price of the Tesla Model Y from $44,990 down to $40,490. All Model Y vehicles also qualify for the $7,500 Federal Tax Credit (details here).
Thanks to Community Member xTorquEx for finding this deal.
Available models:
Tesla Model Y (Standard Range) from $40,490
Tesla Model Y (Long Range) from $44,990
Tesla Model Y (Performance Dual Motor All-Wheel Drive) from $48,140
To qualify for the federal tax credit, one must not exceed the following adjusted gross income limits:
$300,000 for married couples filing jointly
$225,000 for heads of households
$150,000 for all other filers
The tax credit is not refundable, which means one must have federal tax due to take advantage of it. If the tax due is less than the credit amount, one can only claim the credit up to the amount of the tax due.
There's a pattern with Tesla threads here. I don't care if you all wanna discuss the deal or the cars but it always turns into paaaages and paaaages of bickering back and forth and nobody ,except for the few involved, enjoy that or wanna wade through that. So cut that stuff out, please and thank you.
FYI just because it says "New" doesn't mean it qualifies for the 7500 tax credit. Demo models are new but do not qualify for 7500. If the specific inventory item qualifies it will directly say it on the site.
1,479 Comments
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Wait till end of Q2 (early to mid June). They'll be throwing all the offers because they can't afford to have 2 bad quarters. And they have a ton of cars in inventory and the refresh won't be coming this year.
Either early June or early Sept or early Dec will be the best times to buy.
I'd be interested, but after being spoiled by Hondas and Toyotas, I have three concerns:
1. Reliability
2. Cost of Repair
3. Depreciation
What are y'all's thoughts on this?
I own a model y and after 16 months of owning it, my total cost to maintain is rotating tires and adding windshield washer. This may be too simple of a comparison but look at your electric lawnmower..what's the reliability of that? Electric cars have low maintenance cost, plus the Tesla battery is covered for 100k or 8 years.
The depreciation for EV's are higher so I would buy a used one with low miles or lease one and then buy which unfortunately teslas don't offer lease to buy
With increase of petty crimes in my area, I don't feel safe owning a fancy car. Target for break ins.
It depends where you live. But generally people will still break into Kias and Hyundais rather than a Tesla. I was worried about vandalism initially but it hasn't born out. Maybe because where I live there are tons of Teslas-- in my neighborhood, would guess it's the 2nd most common make after Toyotas.
Also I don't think Teslas are "fancy" cars, unless you are talking about the S/X. The 3/Y are meant to be daily commuters and family cars. Someone mentioned Highlander Hybrid, but to get a similar trim (ie leather seats and AWD), you need the Limited trim (51.6k). A RAV4 hybrid with Softex is the XSE trim (38.7k). The MY LR is between those two and so is competitively priced, with vastly superior cruise control/lane assist built in (standard autopilot is very good/safe for the highways).
How about stop moderating speech, let ppl do what they want to do
Besides keeping the thread on topic, it keeps those who might be interested from having to wade through pages of comments that don't belong. And since we're all here for the deals, if you'd like to further discuss the site's rules, feel free to PM me so as not to take the thread further off topic. Thanks
How do you have so much money but ask these questions?
I think I made a impulse buy when I purchased Model Y in 22 (traded in 2006 G35) I have got a good trade-in value at that time. Now, trying to see if I can reset with clean start or keep going with that purchase. However model Y has been good to me so far very little repairs able to get around city with out any issue. I def' need a 7-seater for my family needs.
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I have mix feelings about my car. Tesla service is poor, once you own their car. My maintenance cost so far is about $2400 so far: four cameras, heating element, rear defrosters led to the entire rear windshield being replaced; the rate in which I'm burning rubber is also concerning. My winter tires are in its third season, and I'm not sure if I'll get to a fifth. I paid for FSD; it's clear to me that FSD (unsupervised) is not possible with my car, and I've recommended to coworkers that did buy Tesla's to avoid that option like the flu. If I could wave a wand to exchange FSD for LR AWD, I'm making that switch. The furthest journey I'll make is a single sitting to visit family in Boston, and that's 250 miles--4 hours before I bought my Tesla. That trip is now 5 hours because I must tact on a recharge stop. So if I had a 320 mile range M3, with a 20% reduction, that's plenty of juice for me.
Tax credit is Non Refundable and you can't roll it forward so you need 7500 in tax liability the year you buy it.
This is not correct,you do not need $7500 in tax liability if you take the credit at point of sale, but then find you have less than $7500 in liability when you file taxes. The IRS will not claw back any difference.
Q4: What if a buyer has insufficient tax liability to fully use a transferred credit? (added Oct. 6, 2023)
A4. The amount of the credit that the electing taxpayer elects to transfer to the eligible entity may exceed the electing taxpayer's regular tax liability for the taxable year in which the sale occurs, and the excess, if any, is not subject to recapture from the dealer or the buyer.
I have mix feelings about my car. Tesla service is poor, once you own their car. My maintenance cost so far is about $2400 so far: four cameras, heating element, rear defrosters led to the entire rear windshield being replaced; the rate in which I'm burning rubber is also concerning. My winter tires are in its third season, and I'm not sure if I'll get to a fifth. I paid for FSD; it's clear to me that FSD (unsupervised) is not possible with my car, and I've recommended to coworkers that did buy Tesla's to avoid that option like the flu. If I could wave a wand to exchange FSD for LR AWD, I'm making that switch. The furthest journey I'll make is a single sitting to visit family in Boston, and that's 250 miles--4 hours before I bought my Tesla. That trip is now 5 hours because I must tact on a recharge stop.
Why are you stopping for an hour to add the amount of charge that should take about 5-10 minutes?
How do you have $2400 in repairs for a car that should've been in full warranty until this year? (and still is for powertrain) unless you drive an unusually high # of miles.
The New Tesla Model Y Juniper is going to release in 4-6 weeks. And MSRP will be 5k cheaper. So it's better to wait for the new model to release soon. Build quality and features will be like the new Model 3 highland. Plus at the same time the Model 3 performance will release with the $7500 rebate also. I'd recommend to wait!
I think I made a impulse buy when I purchased Model Y in 22 (traded in 2006 G35) I have got a good trade-in value at that time. Now, trying to see if I can reset with clean start or keep going with that purchase. However model Y has been good to me so far very little repairs able to get around city with out any issue. I def' need a 7-seater for my family needs.
The best case scenario of any new car is to own it for longest duration possible, at least until the 8 year mark , with regular maintenance. Selling and new start is just cutting losses, not gaining anything from it.
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There's a pattern with Tesla threads here. I don't care if you all wanna discuss the deal or the cars but it always turns into paaaages and paaaages of bickering back and forth and nobody ,except for the few involved, enjoy that or wanna wade through that. So cut that stuff out, please and thank you.
1,479 Comments
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Either early June or early Sept or early Dec will be the best times to buy.
1. Reliability
2. Cost of Repair
3. Depreciation
What are y'all's thoughts on this?
The depreciation for EV's are higher so I would buy a used one with low miles or lease one and then buy which unfortunately teslas don't offer lease to buy
Also I don't think Teslas are "fancy" cars, unless you are talking about the S/X. The 3/Y are meant to be daily commuters and family cars. Someone mentioned Highlander Hybrid, but to get a similar trim (ie leather seats and AWD), you need the Limited trim (51.6k). A RAV4 hybrid with Softex is the XSE trim (38.7k). The MY LR is between those two and so is competitively priced, with vastly superior cruise control/lane assist built in (standard autopilot is very good/safe for the highways).
It's always been this way in car world.
PSA: if you want this brand, lease it with no money down.
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Tax credit is Non Refundable and you can't roll it forward so you need 7500 in tax liability the year you buy it.
This is not correct,you do not need $7500 in tax liability if you take the credit at point of sale, but then find you have less than $7500 in liability when you file taxes. The IRS will not claw back any difference.
https://www.irs.gov/newsroom/topi...les-credit
A4. The amount of the credit that the electing taxpayer elects to transfer to the eligible entity may exceed the electing taxpayer's regular tax liability for the taxable year in which the sale occurs, and the excess, if any, is not subject to recapture from the dealer or the buyer.
Why are you stopping for an hour to add the amount of charge that should take about 5-10 minutes?
How do you have $2400 in repairs for a car that should've been in full warranty until this year? (and still is for powertrain) unless you drive an unusually high # of miles.
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