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Select Costco Locations: 2-Pack 5-Qt Kirkland Signature Full Synthetic Motor Oil Expired
$30
$38.99
(Pricing/Availability May Vary)
Select Costco Wholesale Locations has their 2-Pack 5-Quart Kirkland Signature Full Synthetic Motor Oil Bottles (SAE OW-20, 5W-20, or 5W-30) on sale for $29.99 (price taken off at register) valid for in-warehouse purchase only.
Thanks to community member HomerSaidDoh for finding this deal
Note, product availability/pricing may vary by location. Please check your local warehouse location for details.
Available Product(s)
Thanks to community member HomerSaidDoh for finding this deal
Note, product availability/pricing may vary by location. Please check your local warehouse location for details.
Available Product(s)
- 2-Pack 5-Quart Kirkland Signature Full Synthetic Motor Oil Bottles (SAE OW-20) $29.99
- 2-Pack 5-Quart Kirkland Signature Full Synthetic Motor Oil Bottles (SAE 5W-20) $29.99
- 2-Pack 5-Quart Kirkland Signature Full Synthetic Motor Oil Bottles (SAE 5W-30) $29.99
Original Post
Written by
Edited April 10, 2024
at 06:58 PM
$29.99 for Costco members in warehouse price.
$9 manufacturer's savings is valid through 05/05/24. While supplies last.
Kirkland Signature 0W-20 Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5-quart, 2-pack
Kirkland Signature 5W-20 Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5-quart, 2-pack
Kirkland Signature 5W-30 Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5-quart, 2-pack
https://www.costco.com/motor-oil....ePrice+a
$9 manufacturer's savings is valid through 05/05/24. While supplies last.
Kirkland Signature 0W-20 Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5-quart, 2-pack
Kirkland Signature 5W-20 Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5-quart, 2-pack
Kirkland Signature 5W-30 Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5-quart, 2-pack
https://www.costco.com/motor-oil....ePrice+a
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Community Wiki
Last Edited by Marlin1975
April 11, 2024
at
05:04 AM
Costcos Kirkland motor oil is made by Warren. They also make the oil for amazon and walmarts supertech oil.
It meets the current API standards for motor oil.
Yes it works as well as most other synthetics out there unless you have some specific need/heavily modified vehicle.
Yes you can use 5w-30 in vehicles that call for 5w20 or 0w20. The 20 weight oils are for CAFE needs, not engine longevity. But its best to not use a 20 weight oil in a car that came with 30 weight when new.[SIZE=3]
It meets the current API standards for motor oil.
Yes it works as well as most other synthetics out there unless you have some specific need/heavily modified vehicle.
Yes you can use 5w-30 in vehicles that call for 5w20 or 0w20. The 20 weight oils are for CAFE needs, not engine longevity. But its best to not use a 20 weight oil in a car that came with 30 weight when new.[SIZE=3]
173 Comments
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A traditional premium synthetic has a high performance additive package that meets usually ACEA and Euro OEM specs and uses a better VM that burns cleaner. They also tend to use a better Group III and and/or PAO (Group IV).
You have to understand how these products are made, the Kirkland (Costco), Amazon Basics, and Supertech (Walmart) cheapy syns are all based on a bid in this case Warren won the bid with the lowest cost product. Hence you get just the bare minimum in engine oil, so a skimpy conventional additive packages (8-9% treat) and cheap and dirty VM (OCP). The goal with formulating these products is to make it as absolutely cheap as possible or you don't get the bid.
When premium brands formulate their synthetics (Mobil 1, EDGE, Platinum, Liqui Moly) their goal is to differentiate so when you see 10x better wear protection or sludge prevention it is in comparison to exactly these market general cheapy products as those meet the bare minimum specs. Your premium syns will use a higher end additive pack (13-16% treat) and a clean burning, shear stable star polymer. They also tend to use some higher end base oils like GTL, PAO, esters along with GIII. These also tend to meet ACEA and a lot of the harder Euro specs like Mercedes, VW, etc. This is why you don't see a Kirkland 5W-40 for a VW or Porsche as those products can't meet the tougher specs.
The reason people seem to think they are all the same is they never take apart their engines to see the difference. The higher performance oil will keep your engine running closer to new for longer where the cheap products leave more deposits, sludge, and cause more wear. Your engine will still run, but it will burn more oil and have less hp (clogged piston rings) and likely shorten turbo life as those bearings hate deposits.
Here is a little more proof, most of the big lubricant marketers have introduced their own cheapy syns for fighting grade synthetics to compete with kirkland/amazon/supertech. Mobil has Mobil Synthetic (no 1 in that name) for example. Look up the specs and it's just API SP/dexos1 and is likely a market general cheap formulation just like the others. Mobil 1 however is a different beast and is self formulated by ExxonMobil and still has a nice slug of PAO in the products.
Now if you get into higher variants, I'd agree HM, EP, SUV etc the variance there is much smaller. They might have a little booster or be a smidge thicker but very similar to each other.
My suggestion is to compare specs. If they only meet SP/dexos1 then they are basics. If they meet Porche, VW 50x, MB 229.x, BMW, ACEA specs then they are high tier with robust additive packages.
SWRI Seq IV wear test [swri.org]
UOA is useful but doesn't give you the full picture, for example darker oil doesn't mean it's bad as higher end oils have almost double the dispersant which means they solubilize more contaminants, crappy oils will leave more behind in your engine and sumps.
BTW I used to make these types of products and run all OEM/API/ACEA testing to get them approved.
I don't think I'll convince people like you who think cheaper is better, but the truth is they are different products. A McDonalds hamburger isn't the same as one from Shake Shack, the ingredients are just different and your engine is just like your body, the bad stuff leads to deposits, clogs, wear etc, but it happens slowly over time.
As an ex formulator it pains me deeply when people say "oil is oil" it's like telling a chef that soup is soup because they all use water...
The Shell GTL "oil" for instance has proven to improve deposits on a Sequence IIIG test with the same additive pack over the regular Yubase Group III.
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A traditional premium synthetic has a high performance additive package that meets usually ACEA and Euro OEM specs and uses a better VM that burns cleaner. They also tend to use a better Group III and and/or PAO (Group IV).
You have to understand how these products are made, the Kirkland (Costco), Amazon Basics, and Supertech (Walmart) cheapy syns are all based on a bid in this case Warren won the bid with the lowest cost product. Hence you get just the bare minimum in engine oil, so a skimpy conventional additive packages (8-9% treat) and cheap and dirty VM (OCP). The goal with formulating these products is to make it as absolutely cheap as possible or you don't get the bid.
When premium brands formulate their synthetics (Mobil 1, EDGE, Platinum, Liqui Moly) their goal is to differentiate so when you see 10x better wear protection or sludge prevention it is in comparison to exactly these market general cheapy products as those meet the bare minimum specs. Your premium syns will use a higher end additive pack (13-16% treat) and a clean burning, shear stable star polymer. They also tend to use some higher end base oils like GTL, PAO, esters along with GIII. These also tend to meet ACEA and a lot of the harder Euro specs like Mercedes, VW, etc. This is why you don't see a Kirkland 5W-40 for a VW or Porsche as those products can't meet the tougher specs.
The reason people seem to think they are all the same is they never take apart their engines to see the difference. The higher performance oil will keep your engine running closer to new for longer where the cheap products leave more deposits, sludge, and cause more wear. Your engine will still run, but it will burn more oil and have less hp (clogged piston rings) and likely shorten turbo life as those bearings hate deposits.
Here is a little more proof, most of the big lubricant marketers have introduced their own cheapy syns for fighting grade synthetics to compete with kirkland/amazon/supertech. Mobil has Mobil Synthetic (no 1 in that name) for example. Look up the specs and it's just API SP/dexos1 and is likely a market general cheap formulation just like the others. Mobil 1 however is a different beast and is self formulated by ExxonMobil and still has a nice slug of PAO in the products.
Now if you get into higher variants, I'd agree HM, EP, SUV etc the variance there is much smaller. They might have a little booster or be a smidge thicker but very similar to each other.
My suggestion is to compare specs. If they only meet SP/dexos1 then they are basics. If they meet Porche, VW 50x, MB 229.x, BMW, ACEA specs then they are high tier with robust additive packages.
Informative and helpful post but I'll add one counter argument and caveat. Often in practice, you won't see much difference, because people are bad at maintaining regular schedules, or worse, go longer intervals because they have the premium oil. Cheap oil every 3-5K beats premium oil every 10K.
I have the vvti rattle as well on startup. Did changing oil brands really help?
Stop and start puts the most wear on an engine. Second is dirty/contaminated oil, common with many direct injected engines since the delivered fuel pressure can reach 2000 to 3000 psi.
The root cause is usually associated with dirty oil or oil left in the engine for too long. Cold oil is thicker, so it takes longer to reach critical parts since many oil passages are partially blocked by the use of dirty oil. This problem is less apparent when the oil is hot.
https://www.atschemical
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-babZWqH34
If so, then changing the oil won't fix it. It will need a new vvt-i camshaft sprocket.
If so, then changing the oil won't fix it. It will need a new vvt-i camshaft sprocket.
A partially blocked oil port will result in noise during cold start. A high detergent oil or deposit cleaning chemical can restore functionality if the problem is caught early (dirty locking pin that does not move freely...time 3:16 in the video)
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Most engines will need gasoline to enter via the intake valves to keep them clean. Modern Toyotas use a combination of port and direct injections.
Pretty slick comment
GM dexos1 is the only pay to play but they still check your performance.
The rest you just need to pass the testing and you can claim the spec there is no "pay to play" in the rest of the industry.
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It's your money. If in your head it makes you feel better then do it.
You just won't find any REAL STUDIES that will show you that super tech oil will do any damage to your engine.
Even the oil companies agree and they're the ones who would make more money on earlier oil changes.