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Sold By | Sale Price |
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Amazon | $9.78 |
Rating: | (4.7 out of 5 stars) |
Reviews: | 3,466 Amazon Reviews |
Product Name: | SharkBite 1/2 x 3/8 Inch Compression Angle Stop Valve, Quarter Turn, Push to Connect Brass Plumbing Fitting, PEX Pipe, Copper, CPVC, PE-RT, HDPE, 23036-0000LF |
Manufacturer: | Cash Acme |
Model Number: | 23036-0000LF |
Product SKU: | B004XM5GE6 |
UPC: | 7131405261031 |
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Typically if your plumbing source comes out of the wall and your fixture is above that point you use this right angle adapters. If your plumbing comes out of the floor and your fixture is above you'd use a straight connector shut off.
Also it helps to remove the faucet head/aerator anytime you shut water off and turn it back on otherwise they can potentially get clogged by debris.
Edit: Also to save yourself some aggravation you can typically fix a leaking gate valve by tightening the packing nut as they can work themselves loose. this is the nut behind the handle. Usually just an 1/8 of a turn will stop a slow drip but if it doesn't tighten with light force don't overdue it as you can break the valve if you go crazy
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I do the same. The regular compression right angle valves are almost $10/pc but if you buy 20 of them ( 1 box) they're only $5/pc.
Great price of you have a big project, want a few for back up, or are sharing with friends!
Bath/kitchen faucet supply?
Laundry supply?
Toilet supply?
Are they usually all the same size?
https://www.supplyhouse
Bluefin version of this connector is a bit over $8, for example.
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Bath/kitchen faucet supply?
Laundry supply?
Toilet supply?
Are they usually all the same size?
While certainly many exceptions exist most standard residential household plumbing to areas like kitchen sink cabinets, bathroom sink cabinets, toilets, etc is through 1/2" feed lines, be it copper, PEX, etc. from there it typically is reduced to a 3/8" male fitting where you'd connect your 3/8" supply line directly to the fixture. So assuming the pipe below your old shut-off is 1/2" you'd cut that cleanly off (after isolating off course, even if it means shutting the main water supply and opening a faucet below stream to drain residual water), clean the outside of the pipe and debur the inside, set the 1/2" side to proper depth over the 1/2" pipe, close the valve, test the connection by turning the water back on and pressurizing the line, then hook the female 3/8" of your supply line running to the fixture to the 3/8" outlet of this adapter.
Typically if your plumbing source comes out of the wall and your fixture is above that point you use this right angle adapters. If your plumbing comes out of the floor and your fixture is above you'd use a straight connector shut off.
Also it helps to remove the faucet head/aerator anytime you shut water off and turn it back on otherwise they can potentially get clogged by debris.
Edit: Also to save yourself some aggravation you can typically fix a leaking gate valve by tightening the packing nut as they can work themselves loose. this is the nut behind the handle. Usually just an 1/8 of a turn will stop a slow drip but if it doesn't tighten with light force don't overdue it as you can break the valve if you go crazy
Typically if your plumbing source comes out of the wall and your fixture is above that point you use this right angle adapters. If your plumbing comes out of the floor and your fixture is above you'd use a straight connector shut off.
Also it helps to remove the faucet head/aerator anytime you shut water off and turn it back on otherwise they can potentially get clogged by debris.
Edit: Also to save yourself some aggravation you can typically fix a leaking gate valve by tightening the packing nut as they can work themselves loose. this is the nut behind the handle. Usually just an 1/8 of a turn will stop a slow drip but if it doesn't tighten with light force don't overdue it as you can break the valve if you go crazy
This info here is worth a thousand dollars. The last time I asked a plumber to replace all the old valves in the house to the quarter turn ones and it cost me more than $1000. I totally forgot that years ago I had replaced a freeze damaged outdoor spigot myself with sharkbite. I could have replaced all my valves with shark bites and saved that $1000. But I was so sick of wrestling with wrenches in tight spaces I simply forgot I could just cut it off and use sharkbite. Next house I'll remember! I'm so scared of plumbing I prefer sharkbite to compression fittings. I never feel confident that I know what I'm doing with compression fittings. Sharkbite I just push in and that's it! That spigot has been leak free for over 5 years.
The only rule is that you need to be able to see the fitting to use it. Nothing behind drywall when it comes to push to fit connections.
This is not a deal considering the other brands I listed are available for the same or less at Home Depot. If you want Shark bite, go for it. It's the first push to fit brand in America. Somehow that commands a price premium.
I use compression fittings as well but they can be a pain if you do not have the right tools. I have the right tools and they are still a pain to get to seal correctly.
Make sure you get the shark bite removal tool if you are going to be buying push to fit fittings. Shark bite does not include the little plastic horse shoe with their products. Other brands do include the removal tool.
https://www.supplyhouse
Bluefin version of this connector is a bit over $8, for example.
Bath/kitchen faucet supply?
Laundry supply?
Toilet supply?
Are they usually all the same size?
If the existing connections in your house are threaded, you would save yourself a lot of hassle by going back with threaded vs push connect which will require cutting of the threaded ends.
For no solder valves, I like the kind that use a compression fitting more than these since when tightened, they stay put.