expiredIzzy138 | Staff posted Aug 14, 2024 05:27 PM
Item 1 of 9
Item 1 of 9
expiredIzzy138 | Staff posted Aug 14, 2024 05:27 PM
12000 BTU 110V Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner with 20 SEER2
+ Free Shipping$446
$1,120
60% offYitahome
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Midea is one of the other MFGs that make some of the more known brands like Pioneer.
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Can you blame them?
Think about it - you have a business, requires all sorts of certifications, specialized equipment, etc. Sure you like marking up what you sell but you think, hey I'll install this rando minisplit for someone. Fine. Trying to install it, something breaks because it's cheap. Or maybe it has oddly-sized tubing or fasteners you don't have tools for. You charge it with refrigerant only to find it has a leak. Manufacturer CS is nonexistent. You can't ask questions or get parts (in a timely manner). Let's say they DO get it running then 6 months later, something happens. Now they're on the hook for it, or get into a pissing match with the customer.
It's just not worth it for them. Basically same reason why auto repair shops don't like using customer-purchased parts - when shit goes south, who's to blame? I mean heck, as a homeowner, the whole reason you're considering units like these is that they have been made dumb enough as to not require an HVAC tech, you realize that you're not getting something from nothing and the tradeoff is probably quality, yet you're also wondering why the pros don't want to deal with these DIY units.
Maybe someone out there who's probably more a handyman than anything, could take something like this on, but with essentially zero warranty.
Is this the typical range for a heat pump mini split?
So you can't set the thermostat to anything below 60 degrees in the winter? I'd rather let my shop dip to 50 when not occupied.
Is this the typical range for a heat pump mini split?
Personally I consider heat pumps shoulder season devices, so obviously running AC in the winter, with a few weeks on either side of neutrality (no AC or heat), but on either side of that is a good space for the heat pump when it's probably above freezing outside most of the time. Then in the middle of winter I'm using our NG boiler and pellet stove. So here in New England I generally run the boiler Jan ~ March or so, then the heat pump March ~ May, May into June is probably neutral, then June - Sept is AC, Sept-Oct is neutral, Oct-December is heat pump and December-Jan is boiler. Our electricity is fairly expensive here though, and that certainly weighs on the decision.
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Think about it - you have a business, requires all sorts of certifications, specialized equipment, etc. Sure you like marking up what you sell but you think, hey I'll install this rando minisplit for someone. Fine. Trying to install it, something breaks because it's cheap. Or maybe it has oddly-sized tubing or fasteners you don't have tools for. You charge it with refrigerant only to find it has a leak. Manufacturer CS is nonexistent. You can't ask questions or get parts (in a timely manner). Let's say they DO get it running then 6 months later, something happens. Now they're on the hook for it, or get into a pissing match with the customer.
It's just not worth it for them. Basically same reason why auto repair shops don't like using customer-purchased parts - when shit goes south, who's to blame? I mean heck, as a homeowner, the whole reason you're considering units like these is that they have been made dumb enough as to not require an HVAC tech, you realize that you're not getting something from nothing and the tradeoff is probably quality, yet you're also wondering why the pros don't want to deal with these DIY units.
Maybe someone out there who's probably more a handyman than anything, could take something like this on, but with essentially zero warranty.
EDIT: NVM it swapped to the 220v which is seer 17, the 110v is seer20
There's a reason why legit brands dont sell direct to consumer, because if the install is poorly done, the brand gets blamed.
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Edit:
Seems my comment is getting a lot of hate. I'm all hears for a reply explaining why it's a problem... The indoor unit and outdoor units are precharged, no? I'd assume they're filled with the correct amount of refrigerant for the system with the included line set. Purging the line set with refrigerant displaces the air (and associated humidity) so that should be all you need. In fact, that's how you fill the system after vacuuming anyway - you purge the low pressure hose line before tightening and opening the valve.
Of course, you're relying on the manufacturer doing their part correctly, which may be questionable but still the process *should* be fine.
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