BuyDig via eBay has
16" Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-1600SW 1600W High Excursion Subwoofer (1070652, Ebony Vinyl) for $1124.99 - $225 w/ coupon code
NEWYEAR20 applied at checkout =
$899.99.
Shipping is free.
Thanks to Deal Editor
iconian for finding this deal.
Product Details:
- Spun Copper Front-Firing Cerametallic Woofers
- High Efficiency Class-D Amplifier
- Front-Firing Slot Port With Exclusive Internal Flare Technology
- Flexible Controls
- 1/2-Watt Standby Mode
- Inputs: Dual RCA/LFE Line In, WA-2 Wireless Port
- Dimensions (H x W x D): 23.39 x 23.50 x 27.35" (59.4 x 59.7 x 69.5cm)
- Weight: 110.9 lbs (50.3kg)
Top Comments
You want a sub that can play flat, low, loud, and with low distortion. CEA-2010-A and CEA-2010-B are the heart of the scientific measurement of sub performance for all of these areas. The scores are each useful, but they have different thresholds of distortion, so they're not really comparable. Make sure you're comparing apples to apples, or just compare on one site alone, like Audioholics or Erin's Audio.
I have dumped on a lot of terrible Klipsch gear in the past. This sub, and the subs in this new line, are stellar and cheap. I have the RP1400 in the garage, and it's great. I have an SVS PB16 in the cave, which is better. This RP1600 Klipsch is just barely shy of the PB16 in 20hz+ performance, and better below 20hz. The SVS has an app with impressive EQ, balanced inputs, a pass through, an app, and better looks for 3x the money. The Rythmik FV15HP costs 2x more and can't hit the sub bass, but it has lots of knobs to control performance on the back. The RP1400 is overkill. The 1600 and PB16 are massive overkill. To EQ flat with my JBL 708P monitors, I have to put the PB16 at about -32db. The RP1600 would probably have to be at -30db. That's a heck of a lot of overhead to go with speakers that handle 108db of continuous SPL and 114db peak.
So yeah, this is overkill and an amazing value.
These are some super deep dives on people adjusting subwoofers for an even response but if you're actually curious provide an opportunity for learning:
https://youtu.be/T2XoW4KNpNw?si=
https://peteswrite.blog
https://www.hifizine.co
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You want a sub that can play flat, low, loud, and with low distortion. CEA-2010-A and CEA-2010-B are the heart of the scientific measurement of sub performance for all of these areas. The scores are each useful, but they have different thresholds of distortion, so they're not really comparable. Make sure you're comparing apples to apples, or just compare on one site alone, like Audioholics or Erin's Audio.
I have dumped on a lot of terrible Klipsch gear in the past. This sub, and the subs in this new line, are stellar and cheap. I have the RP1400 in the garage, and it's great. I have an SVS PB16 in the cave, which is better. This RP1600 Klipsch is just barely shy of the PB16 in 20hz+ performance, and better below 20hz. The SVS has an app with impressive EQ, balanced inputs, a pass through, an app, and better looks for 3x the money. The Rythmik FV15HP costs 2x more and can't hit the sub bass, but it has lots of knobs to control performance on the back. The RP1400 is overkill. The 1600 and PB16 are massive overkill. To EQ flat with my JBL 708P monitors, I have to put the PB16 at about -32db. The RP1600 would probably have to be at -30db. That's a heck of a lot of overhead to go with speakers that handle 108db of continuous SPL and 114db peak.
So yeah, this is overkill and an amazing value.
If you put the sub far from the source, RCA kind of sucks, and balanced is better. These are RCA only, or wireless for 200 bucks more.
There is a delay of about 1 ms per foot. You'll want to be able to put a delay into the speakers if the sub is much farther than the speakers.
Volume drops with distance, so you'll want to match to your listening position.
Bass is not easy to locate up to about 80hz, so if you crossover at 100hz or above, you may notice some issues with hearing things from the wrong location. This probably varies by person.
Bass is omnidirectional, so it doesn't really matter what direction the sub faces.
I had my sub mid-room with the speakers on one end, and when I moved from one spot in the room to another, the bass levels varied dramatically. Now I have the sub centered.
Room modes, drops as certain frequencies cancel out with room reflections, will vary widely by where your sub is located. Some people will do a sub walk, moving the sub bit by bit to get the least problem or no problem in the listening position. Having more subs solves this too.
These are some super deep dives on people adjusting subwoofers for an even response but if you're actually curious provide an opportunity for learning:
https://youtu.be/T2XoW4KNpNw?si=
https://peteswrite.blog
https://www.hifizine.co
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SV_Cfi6
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
The nice thing is you could likely get away with 12", much smaller footprint to boot!
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