Lowe's has
96.8" Spec Ops Tools Aluminum 3 Vial Box Beam Level on sale for
$57.17.
Shipping is free or select free store pick up where stock permits.
- Note: Availability for free store pick up may vary by location.
Thanks to community member
wolfjunk2 for finding this deal.
Features:- Patented Tourniquet Bungee System attaches to beams, posts, pipes or couduit for lightning-fast, hands-free leveling
- 33% larger high-contrast green vials with 2% slope lines for maximum low-light visibility and speed
- Match grade epoxy-locked 360° solid acrylic block vials deliver .0005"/inch guaranteed lifetime accuracy
- High-strength, precision-milled aluminum box beam with removable shock-absorbing armored end caps survives the world's toughest job sites
- Chamfered spine for a stronger, twist resistant frame that's more comfortable to hold and maneuver
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I can tell you that in construction a long, straight and flat anything is critically needed and if it can level and plumb all the better. Some tradesman pay dearly for just what you describe and they are called screeds.
I would have killed for this remodeling my basement and trying to currently level my wavy, humped and out of level floor. When I furred down the ceiling to level I had to strap a 4' level to a long straight edged board to get the flatness and level I needed. Longer levels span more area and make things easier as you can find humps or dips you may have missed with a shorter level. If two or more adjacent framing members read level across them that does not mean that some other down the line are in the same plane, longer levels help find those out of tolerances and they do it quickly with no setup needed . You may be in fact reading level on two points that are level to each other but low or high of plane. In cases like that some do reach for the laser level but the setup needed slows things to a craw. You can quickly slide a level across framing to check for level. Doing that with laser level would be a super tedious process of resetting it if it is a laser line level or checking with a gauge at various points if it is 360 laser.
Laser have been a great help to the trades and there are times where they are the right and perfect tool for the job but bubble levels are one of the the most needed and critical tools of the trade.
There is great irony that in the age of laser levels I see almost all new homes be they $250,000 to $5,000,000 are terribly out of level, square and flat. Mid and turn of the previous century and even before homes are often more level and flat than any modern home you can buy, they are just built very shoddy with shoddy and cheap materials.
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It's just seems like a very simple mechanic that doesn't exactly measures in nanometer. You literally use your eye to eyeball the bubble to be in the middle. If you're off by a tiny bit, it's like it's out of tolerance.
As a non-construction type guy, maybe there's some other parts I don't get, hence why I'm asking.
Apart from that, what about laser levels?
Seems a lot easier to use if you're paying $100+ for a long piece of straight metal.
- Checking the "flatness" of wall/floor/ceiling framing before drywalling. Any protruding studs can be planed and any recessed studs can have blocking added to bring to flush.
- Using as an 8' straightedge for 4x8 sheets. Very handy.
- Using as a screed for concrete (just kidding on that one - that would be a one time use)
- Good for leveling multiple cabinets before countertops, and across dishwasher/stove gaps
There are many more uses beyond what I mentioned that I can't think of at the moment.Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
What's the tactical advantage that demand such price?
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank DonV1962
It's just seems like a very simple mechanic that doesn't exactly measures in nanometer. You literally use your eye to eyeball the bubble to be in the middle. If you're off by a tiny bit, it's like it's out of tolerance.
As a non-construction type guy, maybe there's some other parts I don't get, hence why I'm asking.
Apart from that, what about laser levels?
Seems a lot easier to use if you're paying $100+ for a long piece of straight metal.
I can tell you that in construction a long, straight and flat anything is critically needed and if it can level and plumb all the better. Some tradesman pay dearly for just what you describe and they are called screeds.
I would have killed for this remodeling my basement and trying to currently level my wavy, humped and out of level floor. When I furred down the ceiling to level I had to strap a 4' level to a long straight edged board to get the flatness and level I needed. Longer levels span more area and make things easier as you can find humps or dips you may have missed with a shorter level. If two or more adjacent framing members read level across them that does not mean that some other down the line are in the same plane, longer levels help find those out of tolerances and they do it quickly with no setup needed . You may be in fact reading level on two points that are level to each other but low or high of plane. In cases like that some do reach for the laser level but the setup needed slows things to a craw. You can quickly slide a level across framing to check for level. Doing that with laser level would be a super tedious process of resetting it if it is a laser line level or checking with a gauge at various points if it is 360 laser.
Laser have been a great help to the trades and there are times where they are the right and perfect tool for the job but bubble levels are one of the the most needed and critical tools of the trade.
There is great irony that in the age of laser levels I see almost all new homes be they $250,000 to $5,000,000 are terribly out of level, square and flat. Mid and turn of the previous century and even before homes are often more level and flat than any modern home you can buy, they are just built very shoddy with shoddy and cheap materials.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank DonV1962
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=50+feet+vivyl+tubing&crid=1LCPHN3Z64C3B&sprefix=50+feet+vivyl+tubing%2Cap... [amazon.com]
You are welcome to spite the nose form your face but please do not advise others to do so. To much on this site has become about personal feelings and neuroticisms of people that do not know what they are talking about.
If this is good level it may be one of the best deals ever as I have been looking for years for reasonably priced 8' level and I have been in the trades my whole life. I bought two and if they look good and read accurate I would buy more.
I can tell you that in construction a long, straight and flat anything is critically needed and if it can level and plumb all the better. Some tradesman pay dearly for just what you describe and they are called screeds.
I would have killed for this remodeling my basement and trying to currently level my wavy, humped and out of level floor. When I furred down the ceiling to level I had to strap a 4' level to a long straight edged board to get the flatness and level I needed. Longer levels span more area and make things easier as you can find humps or dips you may have missed with a shorter level. If two or more adjacent framing members read level across them that does not mean that some other down the line are in the same plane, longer levels help find those out of tolerances and they do it quickly with no setup needed . You may be in fact reading level on two points that are level to each other but low or high of plane. In cases like that some do reach for the laser level but the setup needed slows things to a craw. You can quickly slide a level across framing to check for level. Doing that with laser level would be a super tedious process of resetting it if it is a laser line level or checking with a gauge at various points if it is 360 laser.
Laser have been a great help to the trades and there are times where they are the right and perfect tool for the job but bubble levels are one of the the most needed and critical tools of the trade.
There is great irony that in the age of laser levels I see almost all new homes be they $250,000 to $5,000,000 being terribly out of level, square and flat. Mid and turn of the previous century and even before homes are often the more level and flat than any modern home you can buy, they are just built very shoddy with shoddy and cheap materials.
However for someone doing more major work, putting a straight piece of level on top of something else is probably a lot easier, let alone laser levels make not work in all environments.
I still feel $100+ is expensive for a level, but maybe there's something in the manufacturing of them or just simply lack of competition. The market dictates prices, not based on manufacturing costs, but typically more based on demand.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=50+feet+vivyl+tubing&crid=1LCPHN3Z64C3B&sprefix=50+feet+vivyl+tubing%2Cap... [amazon.com]
You are welcome to spite the nose form your face but please do not advise others to do so. To much on this site has become about personal feelings and neuroticisms of people that do not know what they are talking about.
If this is good level it may be one of the best deals ever as I have been looking for years for reasonably priced 8' level and I have been in the trades my whole life. I bought two and if they look good and read accurate I would buy more.
For my use of simple hanging up a row of pictures (I got one that is all crooked due to short level), mounting shelves, TVs and just basic indoor home stuff. Not for major construction use. Maybe DIY wardrobe at best, but that's unlikely too.
Would you still recommend this level over a laser one?
However for someone doing more major work, putting a straight piece of level on top of something else is probably a lot easier, let alone laser levels make not work in all environments.
I still feel $100+ is expensive for a level, but maybe there's something in the manufacturing of them or just simply lack of competition. The market dictates prices, not based on manufacturing costs, but typically more based on demand.
The Bosch one, somebody posted is an autoleveling laser. Can't you just put it on the floor and adjust, or do you need the entire tripod setup?
For my use of simple hanging up a row of pictures (I got one that is all crooked due to short level), mounting shelves, TVs and just basic indoor home stuff. Not for major construction use. Maybe DIY wardrobe at best, but that's unlikely too.
Would you still recommend this level over a laser one?
However for someone doing more major work, putting a straight piece of level on top of something else is probably a lot easier, let alone laser levels make not work in all environments.
I still feel $100+ is expensive for a level, but maybe there's something in the manufacturing of them or just simply lack of competition. The market dictates prices, not based on manufacturing costs, but typically more based on demand.
The Bosch one, somebody posted is an autoleveling laser. Can't you just put it on the floor and adjust, or do you need the entire tripod setup?
For my use of simple hanging up a row of pictures (I got one that is all crooked due to short level), mounting shelves, TVs and just basic indoor home stuff. Not for major construction use. Maybe DIY wardrobe at best, but that's unlikely too.
Would you still recommend this level over a laser one?
With a laser level you need a tripod or some way to get it to the height you want. If you do not have a tripod you will need one or you will be trying to stack books or boards to get your heights. Been there and done that and it is super frustrating. Alternatively you can set the laser level line anywhere on the wall say sitting on end or coffee table, or shelf, at any height and measure up or down from that but I still find that bit tedious and frustrating and usually grab the level.
I have a laser level and tripods available and still find it quicker and easier to just grab a level. The laser will work well for what you want to do but you have to get it set someway at the height you want.
You do not need to hold the level against the wall to set pictures that may be spaced apart. Just hold it up and use some blue tape or a very fine pencil line to get your bottom or top level. Pencil lines will come if paint if you use alight touch. If the level is near accurate you can extend that line by working down the wall from one end and placing more level tape or marks. One mark at the vertical center line of each picture is all you need and you can use the 4' level you have,a cheap small 6' or 12' plastic level or your eye to level each picture. You can span many feet that way and go across the whole wall. You can even set the first picture and level over form that.
There is definitely cost in involved in in making a good level and they are hard to find. They must extremely flat and be made to precision and the all the multiple bubbles in them must be set true or they are useless. Eight foot levels go up into the multiple hundreds and $100 is the price of lower end ones. You may find that most of those do not read true and that is true even as the cost goes up.
- Checking the "flatness" of wall/floor/ceiling framing before drywalling. Any protruding studs can be planed and any recessed studs can have blocking added to bring to flush.
- Using as an 8' straightedge for 4x8 sheets. Very handy.
- Using as a screed for concrete (just kidding on that one - that would be a one time use)
- Good for leveling multiple cabinets before countertops, and across dishwasher/stove gaps
There are many more uses beyond what I mentioned that I can't think of at the moment.Levels are with regularity used to screed. You just have to clean them quick. This one being cheaper than some scredds many may use it for that purpose
If this level is good I will not be doing that but I have done it with levels just because they were there with no harm done with quick clean. I do like pristine tools but the immediacy of getting a job done and my inherent laziness against going to look for something else gets in the way.
For some reason with levels the niceness and prettiness they have is in inverse to their tendency to get knocked over and go clanging against something you would rather they not. The first ding is always the worst. Definitely take care to not let the vials get to messed up. I have some good levels beat to hell and would still use them but they are getting hard to read. There is plastic polish that can help with that.
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