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I'm going to disagree on the order of removal and installation. Always remove the negative terminal first and reinstall it last. This eliminates the possibility of shorting a tool between the positive terminal and frame ground while removing/installing it.
Keep in mind the battery is a critical car component. The price is low enough to take the risk of early failure but have a backup plan (keep a lithium jump starter in the trunk, it's useful to have anyways) and don't expect warranty service (if any at all) to get you another battery before you buckle and pick one up locally.
The benefit of purchasing locally is just driving in to get the battery tested and swapped if defective within the 3 year warranty. On that note, don't go to Costco for batteries, they suck ever since they started the pro-rated refund.
Edit: Not dumping on the deal, I bought the H6. No core charge for recycling means I can keep the existing one which is mostly functional as a backup (remote start was failing which is a high cutoff). I figured my scenario is low risk.
Darn. I have a Tacoma as well and was about to pull the trigger on this AGM. Didn't realize Im better off with the lead based battery. Is this true? Should I stick with lead battery
Go check your Tacoma cause mine charges at 14.29 factory idling
Last edited by leek69 January 9, 2025 at 03:46 PM.
Based on what I'm seeing, a simple diode install inline with your ALT-S fuse tricks the ECM into telling the alternator to provide the 14.4V+ that AGM batteries want. Can be purchased on sites like eBay for $25 or so, but easy enough to fabricate yourself. The striped end of the diode will likely go towards the fused side of the circuit (the 0V side when fuse is removed)
Digging in a little further, a diode has an inherent forward voltage drop of .2-1V, depending on diode type. The ECM sees this circuit as its system voltage monitoring point and adjusts the alternator's output upwards by that same amount, making your AGM battery a happy camper without side effects.
The diode trick only works on the 2nd gen
My 3rd gen doesn't have the ALT-S fuse circuit so it is controlled by the ECU only. I'll just use a battery tender (I linked below) and top it off every month or two.
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In some newer vehicles like the 2016+ Tacomas, the voltage is regulated by the ECU, meaning no voltage regulator Alt-S circuit to spoof. The ECU can be reprogramed for 3rd Gen using OV Tune and likely others
Darn. I have a Tacoma as well and was about to pull the trigger on this AGM. Didn't realize Im better off with the lead based battery. Is this true? Should I stick with lead battery
The diode trick only works on the 2nd gen
My 3rd gen doesn't have the ALT-S fuse circuit so it is controlled by the ECU only. I'll just use a battery tender (I linked below) and top it off every month or two.
Fair enough; I don't own a Toyota so my knowledge of this issue is limited. Just thought I'd bring it up because I've seen these discussions before about AGM upgrades to them. I guess it comes down to additional expenses for hardware or an ECM reflash being justified or not versus just going back in with a flooded battery.
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Depends on how cared for
Is your boat on a ctek?
The Weize effectively has no warranty
Neither do ones from the store. Pro rated is worthless when it's a 2-4 yr warranty. Of course it's gonna last 2 yrs. Although, for high capacity, the walmarts are a good value.
Either buy 1 yr warranty lead acid battery from walmart or buy AGM online for a standard battery, imo. Last one I bought was weize group 47 for $107 total.
Last edited by DillDozer January 9, 2025 at 01:13 PM.
Looking at the "WEIZE Platinum AGM Car Battery BCI Group 49 - 12V 95Ah H8 Automotive Battery" if it is different for different SKUs.
Looking to replace a Walmart Everstart maxx H8 that never worked well for a 2008 BMW 335XI
Hoping this one will be robust for many winters to come.
These are manufactured in China by GUANGDONG TONGLI POWER TECHNOLOGY CO.,LTD. There are many hundreds of reviews posted on Amazon for them. The Group 48/H6 for example has an average rating of 4.6 of 5 stars with 500+ reviews. The Chinese have been getting very aggressive pricewise to establish a solid U.S market share of automotive AGMs, something they did very successfully years ago with powersports AGMs. On a side note, some BMWs require a battery reset through the OBDII port when replacing the battery so that the ECM can read and adjust to the new battery for optimum charging.
sounds defective, 900 CCA is a shit ton. I have a 575 CCA battery with a dead cell that worked at almost zero.
Possibly, people will laugh...but it checked fine at Napa several times, but it would constantly let me down.
The vehicle would sit for extended periods of time, as it's not the only vehicle in service, and those cars are power hungry.
So I kept a small lithium jetski battery in the rear bin, and jumped it via a 50A SMH plug fairly frequently...over the last 2 years. That little group 20 NOCO NLP20 battery had enough in it to start the vehicle alone. Yet the Walmart one would constantly be problematic, particularly in the winter.
But since it was never a priority, just kept rolling with it hoping for a suitable deal to pop up, hope this one is a good choice. Usually default to enthusiast forums for prescriptive replacements, but those groups don't seems to be enthusiastic about which cell to select and why.
These are manufactured in China by GUANGDONG TONGLI POWER TECHNOLOGY CO.,LTD. There are many hundreds of reviews posted on Amazon for them. The Group 48/H6 for example has an average rating of 4.6 of 5 stars with 500+ reviews. The Chinese have been getting very aggressive pricewise to establish a solid U.S market share of automotive AGMs, something they did very successfully years ago with powersports AGMs. On a side note, some BMWs require a battery reset through the OBDII port when replacing the battery so that the ECM can read and adjust to the new battery for optimum charging.
This one required Registration, and have on each cell.
Question if anyone knows, when the specific profile for Ah and chemistry is not available for explicit selection , what is the "correct" selection if any?
Is it simply to select the closest capacity with the correct chemistry cell? It there any guidance on over/under capacity selection given the cell isn't identical to the options given when registering a new replacement BMW cell?
Possibly, people will laugh...but it checked fine at Napa several times, but it would constantly let me down.
The vehicle would sit for extended periods of time, as it's not the only vehicle in service, and those cars are power hungry.
So I kept a small lithium jetski battery in the rear bin, and jumped it via a 50A SMH plug fairly frequently...over the last 2 years. That little group 20 NOCO NLP20 battery had enough in it to start the vehicle alone. Yet the Walmart one would constantly be problematic, particularly in the winter.
But since it was never a priority, just kept rolling with it hoping for a suitable deal to pop up, hope this one is a good choice. Usually default to enthusiast forums for prescriptive replacements, but those groups don't seems to be enthusiastic about which cell to select and why.
My guess is that your BMW has a substantial parasitic draw during periods of non-use, virtually guaranteeing battery discharge over time and the resultant sulfation that kills lead-acid cells. My solution for seldom used batteries is to hook up a cheap "dumb" 12V battery charger with float function and 2-4 amp output for a battery this size, and plug it into a mechanical dial timer to turn on for 30 minutes to an hour every day. Implementing this has literally added years of life to my intermittent use batteries by counteracting the effects of self-discharge and parasitic draw.
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Possibly, people will laugh...but it checked fine at Napa several times, but it would constantly let me down.
The vehicle would sit for extended periods of time, as it's not the only vehicle in service, and those cars are power hungry.
So I kept a small lithium jetski battery in the rear bin, and jumped it via a 50A SMH plug fairly frequently...over the last 2 years. That little group 20 NOCO NLP20 battery had enough in it to start the vehicle alone. Yet the Walmart one would constantly be problematic, particularly in the winter.
But since it was never a priority, just kept rolling with it hoping for a suitable deal to pop up, hope this one is a good choice. Usually default to enthusiast forums for prescriptive replacements, but those groups don't seems to be enthusiastic about which cell to select and why.
Those digital testers are bullshit, b/c they're not carbon load piles. I took in a battery that couldn't even crank and it said 700 CA. I told them it was full of shit and to just swap it. They did and new battery fired it right up.
I agree with Bubba. If they're sitting, definitely hook up a trickle charger. The nice ones have auto desulphate modes. If it's a bunch of cars, I think I'd install a socket underneath bumper (or wherever is convenient and hidden) to hook up the trickle charger. Just like a standard DC plug or even banana plugs.
I can definitely see BMWs eating power, b/c all of the computer buffoonery and overengineered crap.
Last edited by DillDozer January 9, 2025 at 02:13 PM.
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every little bit counts right
The benefit of purchasing locally is just driving in to get the battery tested and swapped if defective within the 3 year warranty. On that note, don't go to Costco for batteries, they suck ever since they started the pro-rated refund.
Edit: Not dumping on the deal, I bought the H6. No core charge for recycling means I can keep the existing one which is mostly functional as a backup (remote start was failing which is a high cutoff). I figured my scenario is low risk.
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Digging in a little further, a diode has an inherent forward voltage drop of .2-1V, depending on diode type. The ECM sees this circuit as its system voltage monitoring point and adjusts the alternator's output upwards by that same amount, making your AGM battery a happy camper without side effects.
My 3rd gen doesn't have the ALT-S fuse circuit so it is controlled by the ECU only. I'll just use a battery tender (I linked below) and top it off every month or two.
Mine sold tax free so that helped with another 7% off
My 3rd gen doesn't have the ALT-S fuse circuit so it is controlled by the ECU only. I'll just use a battery tender (I linked below) and top it off every month or two.
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Is your boat on a ctek?
The Weize effectively has no warranty
Either buy 1 yr warranty lead acid battery from walmart or buy AGM online for a standard battery, imo. Last one I bought was weize group 47 for $107 total.
Looking at the "WEIZE Platinum AGM Car Battery BCI Group 49 - 12V 95Ah H8 Automotive Battery" if it is different for different SKUs.
Looking to replace a Walmart Everstart maxx H8 that never worked well for a 2008 BMW 335XI
Hoping this one will be robust for many winters to come.
Looking at the "WEIZE Platinum AGM Car Battery BCI Group 49 - 12V 95Ah H8 Automotive Battery" if it is different for different SKUs.
Looking to replace a Walmart Everstart maxx H8 that never worked well for a 2008 BMW 335XI
Hoping this one will be robust for many winters to come.
Looking at the "WEIZE Platinum AGM Car Battery BCI Group 49 - 12V 95Ah H8 Automotive Battery" if it is different for different SKUs.
Looking to replace a Walmart Everstart maxx H8 that never worked well for a 2008 BMW 335XI
Hoping this one will be robust for many winters to come.
The vehicle would sit for extended periods of time, as it's not the only vehicle in service, and those cars are power hungry.
So I kept a small lithium jetski battery in the rear bin, and jumped it via a 50A SMH plug fairly frequently...over the last 2 years. That little group 20 NOCO NLP20 battery had enough in it to start the vehicle alone. Yet the Walmart one would constantly be problematic, particularly in the winter.
But since it was never a priority, just kept rolling with it hoping for a suitable deal to pop up, hope this one is a good choice. Usually default to enthusiast forums for prescriptive replacements, but those groups don't seems to be enthusiastic about which cell to select and why.
Question if anyone knows, when the specific profile for Ah and chemistry is not available for explicit selection , what is the "correct" selection if any?
Is it simply to select the closest capacity with the correct chemistry cell? It there any guidance on over/under capacity selection given the cell isn't identical to the options given when registering a new replacement BMW cell?
The vehicle would sit for extended periods of time, as it's not the only vehicle in service, and those cars are power hungry.
So I kept a small lithium jetski battery in the rear bin, and jumped it via a 50A SMH plug fairly frequently...over the last 2 years. That little group 20 NOCO NLP20 battery had enough in it to start the vehicle alone. Yet the Walmart one would constantly be problematic, particularly in the winter.
But since it was never a priority, just kept rolling with it hoping for a suitable deal to pop up, hope this one is a good choice. Usually default to enthusiast forums for prescriptive replacements, but those groups don't seems to be enthusiastic about which cell to select and why.
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The vehicle would sit for extended periods of time, as it's not the only vehicle in service, and those cars are power hungry.
So I kept a small lithium jetski battery in the rear bin, and jumped it via a 50A SMH plug fairly frequently...over the last 2 years. That little group 20 NOCO NLP20 battery had enough in it to start the vehicle alone. Yet the Walmart one would constantly be problematic, particularly in the winter.
But since it was never a priority, just kept rolling with it hoping for a suitable deal to pop up, hope this one is a good choice. Usually default to enthusiast forums for prescriptive replacements, but those groups don't seems to be enthusiastic about which cell to select and why.
I agree with Bubba. If they're sitting, definitely hook up a trickle charger. The nice ones have auto desulphate modes. If it's a bunch of cars, I think I'd install a socket underneath bumper (or wherever is convenient and hidden) to hook up the trickle charger. Just like a standard DC plug or even banana plugs.
I can definitely see BMWs eating power, b/c all of the computer buffoonery and overengineered crap.
Join The Conversation
Share your experience with the Slickdeals community
Share information with the community. Please follow our Community Guidelines and be kind!