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expirediconian | Staff posted Jan 22, 2025 7:59 PM
Tanglewood Blackbird 6-String Acoustic Electric Guitar w/ Mahogany Body (Black)
$80
$250
68% off
+ Free Shippingat Focus Pro Audio
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+ Free Shippingat Focus Pro AudioDeal Details
Focus Pro Audio has Tanglewood Blackbird 6-String Right-Handed Acoustic Electric Guitar w/ Mahogany Body (Black, TWBBSDE) for $109.99 - $30 w/ discount code FCTW80 = $79.99. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Deal Editor iconian for sharing this deal.
Features:
Thanks to Deal Editor iconian for sharing this deal.
Features:
- 6-string right-handed acoustic electric guitar
- Features a mahogany body
- Techwood fretboard crafted in vintage ivory ABS materials
- Boasts a rich smoky charcoal-stained finish
- Provides a tight bottom end bass note and clear resonance
- Adjustable bridge guitar system
Editor's Notes
Written by SubZero5 | Staff- About this deal:
- Please see the original post for additional details & give the WIKI and additional forum comments a read for helpful discussion.
- About this store:
- Details of Focus Pro Audio's return policy (here)
Community Notes
About the Poster
Deal Details
Community Notes
About the Poster
Focus Pro Audio has Tanglewood Blackbird 6-String Right-Handed Acoustic Electric Guitar w/ Mahogany Body (Black, TWBBSDE) for $109.99 - $30 w/ discount code FCTW80 = $79.99. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Deal Editor iconian for sharing this deal.
Features:
Thanks to Deal Editor iconian for sharing this deal.
Features:
- 6-string right-handed acoustic electric guitar
- Features a mahogany body
- Techwood fretboard crafted in vintage ivory ABS materials
- Boasts a rich smoky charcoal-stained finish
- Provides a tight bottom end bass note and clear resonance
- Adjustable bridge guitar system
Editor's Notes
Written by SubZero5 | Staff- About this deal:
- Please see the original post for additional details & give the WIKI and additional forum comments a read for helpful discussion.
- About this store:
- Details of Focus Pro Audio's return policy (here)
Community Voting
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Top Comments
If you actually want to learn to play acoustic guitar, you don't want this as a starter guitar. You'll just find it frustrating to learn on. As for sound quality, the specs are likely a straight up lie.. I'm sure the body is laminate, not actually mahogany. It may be mahogany laminate and that's fine, but it's still misleading as described.
Laminate back and sides is fine, but you really want a solid wood top, even for a beginner guitar. Those start around $300. Recording King is one good option that will have a few models in that price range, but make sure the product page explicitly states solid top or pass on it. Even if you pay $300 for a guitar, you are still likely going to spend another $100 to get it set up properly by a local shop; so add that to the cost. A half decent beginner acoustic guitar is going to run you around $500 all said and done, unless you luck out with something used.
But again, if you just want something to strum around on and aren't a serious student hoping to play anything with a few years of practice, then this is better than nothing. But I mostly consider this a decoration for your room and I don't mean that in a snobby way, I'm being realistic as someone who has played for thirty years.
It's sometimes possible to find a good cheap guitar for around $300 that's a very good buy for the price.. they do exist, but I'd have to play about fifty of those to find one that really stands out... blindly ordering online, you have a one in fifty chance on a good day.
And obviously, I can't speak to this specific guitar which I don't own and have never played.. but based on what I do know, I have very low expectations.
Addressing a few points that have been raised: First about humidity…in my opinion it is unlikely to affect this guitar, because this guitar is almost certainly plywood. Plywood is inherently more stable in changing humidity than solid wood. This applies to the fingerboard as well. As it is composite, it is unlikely to shrink and expose the ends of the frets. Regarding those exposed fret ends, if they are present, they need to be filed. Otherwise, they will cut at your flesh as your hand changes position on the frets and moves up and down the neck. It is not uncommon to have to do some fret-filing on a cheap (and sometimes not so cheap) guitar. Turning to having your guitar set-up, it's probably not worth it on an $80 guitar. What is worthwhile, however, is to research what a proper setup entails, and to perform the work yourself as best you can. If you get carried away, and screw up the bridge saddle or nut, those are fairly cheap and easy to replace. Don't get too adventurous on truss rod adjustments, as these can cause more problematic damage. None of this is to suggest professional setups are a bad idea. I have my local luthier setup every guitar I buy (I should mention that almost all of my guitars have been purchased used). It's just that on a guitar this cheap you will benefit more from gaining hands-on adjustment experience than the modest improvements even a great luthier can make on an inferior instrument. If you have a luthier nearby, get to know him or her. At some point you are likely to need their services. As far as plywood versus what is usually called "solid wood" construction, both materials can be used to create quality instruments. My folk Yamahas have plywood sides and backs (technically laminate, I suppose), and are very easy to play, with rich and pleasing sound. They do have solid wood tops. They remain unprotected from humidity changes in a house that can get pretty dry in the winter, and have no cracks or other issues so far (I've had them for decades). As far as my all-solid wood guitars go, they are kept in cases with humidity regulating devices enclosed. It's worth noting that My DeArmond X-155 (1999, Korea), has an all plywood body that nonetheless has a very pleasant sound (the X-155 is a hollow-body jazz style acoustic electric).
So, while I'm a bit at odds with some of the other commenters here, I wanted to provide perspective from someone who was dirt-poor when the desire to play the guitar arose. It's really not so much about the guitar, as even pretty bad ones are usually playable, but rather the determination to learn. Be aware, though, that learning on a cheap guitar will be physically painful (pressing down the strings with fingertips until calloused, and getting those fingers into positions you've never had them in before), moreso than a finer instrument. If the guitar is awful and you can't return it, you're out $80 and a lesson is learned. If its shortcomings don't keep you from learning and progressing, welcome to the world of guitar musicians. Good luck!
Edit: Regarding pricing, it shouldn't be too hard to find a decent used Yamaha folk guitar for a hundred bucks. While I haven't played their newer models, historically they usually make a good quality instrument at reasonable cost, cutting the corners that will lower production costs while preserving the tonal quality and playability of the instrument.
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30 Comments
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I have no idea how these guys are getting their set ups for more than 80 bucks though .. that's just bananas.
New strings , tuning, adjusting the truss rod, and action shouldn't cost more than 50
You're highly unlikely to need any adjustments to the nut slots, or the nut, bridge or fret heights of a new acoustic guitar if you're buying from an instrument seller and not the local Walmart's toy section. Factory QC really is that good these days.
Usually, the most you'll need is a truss rod adjustment, which is simple if you take your time.
A total guitar noob won't even know how high they want the action on their guitar, so having the action custom set is simply applying the guitar tech's own preference over the factory's QC default. There's no reason to pay for that until you've learned enough to have an actual preference.
All that said, I think I'd probably go one or two steps above "cheapest I could find" for a first guitar. This one offers neither enough actual details of how it's made, nor any clear closeups of what you're actually buying.
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Addressing a few points that have been raised: First about humidity…in my opinion it is unlikely to affect this guitar, because this guitar is almost certainly plywood. Plywood is inherently more stable in changing humidity than solid wood. This applies to the fingerboard as well. As it is composite, it is unlikely to shrink and expose the ends of the frets. Regarding those exposed fret ends, if they are present, they need to be filed. Otherwise, they will cut at your flesh as your hand changes position on the frets and moves up and down the neck. It is not uncommon to have to do some fret-filing on a cheap (and sometimes not so cheap) guitar. Turning to having your guitar set-up, it's probably not worth it on an $80 guitar. What is worthwhile, however, is to research what a proper setup entails, and to perform the work yourself as best you can. If you get carried away, and screw up the bridge saddle or nut, those are fairly cheap and easy to replace. Don't get too adventurous on truss rod adjustments, as these can cause more problematic damage. None of this is to suggest professional setups are a bad idea. I have my local luthier setup every guitar I buy (I should mention that almost all of my guitars have been purchased used). It's just that on a guitar this cheap you will benefit more from gaining hands-on adjustment experience than the modest improvements even a great luthier can make on an inferior instrument. If you have a luthier nearby, get to know him or her. At some point you are likely to need their services. As far as plywood versus what is usually called "solid wood" construction, both materials can be used to create quality instruments. My folk Yamahas have plywood sides and backs (technically laminate, I suppose), and are very easy to play, with rich and pleasing sound. They do have solid wood tops. They remain unprotected from humidity changes in a house that can get pretty dry in the winter, and have no cracks or other issues so far (I've had them for decades). As far as my all-solid wood guitars go, they are kept in cases with humidity regulating devices enclosed. It's worth noting that My DeArmond X-155 (1999, Korea), has an all plywood body that nonetheless has a very pleasant sound (the X-155 is a hollow-body jazz style acoustic electric).
So, while I'm a bit at odds with some of the other commenters here, I wanted to provide perspective from someone who was dirt-poor when the desire to play the guitar arose. It's really not so much about the guitar, as even pretty bad ones are usually playable, but rather the determination to learn. Be aware, though, that learning on a cheap guitar will be physically painful (pressing down the strings with fingertips until calloused, and getting those fingers into positions you've never had them in before), moreso than a finer instrument. If the guitar is awful and you can't return it, you're out $80 and a lesson is learned. If its shortcomings don't keep you from learning and progressing, welcome to the world of guitar musicians. Good luck!
Edit: Regarding pricing, it shouldn't be too hard to find a decent used Yamaha folk guitar for a hundred bucks. While I haven't played their newer models, historically they usually make a good quality instrument at reasonable cost, cutting the corners that will lower production costs while preserving the tonal quality and playability of the instrument.
Setup applies to all guitars, a $3000 Martin not setup probably will play like crap. This Tanglewood if setup properly will "feel" easier to play than a $3k Martin with super high action (have to use more muscle to press down on the string" or super low action (strings buzzing on the wrong frets and the wrong notes when strumming).
Where more expensive acoustic guitars excel over a lower price guitar is tone and sustain of the sound. As a beginner, your probably don't have a clue what to expect from tone and sustain. My first $80 Fender Acoustic from Guitar Center made sounds when I strummed notes. As a beginner, that's really all you care about. A beginner probably does not have proper fretting hand structure so you are probably accidentally muting your notes as you strum or pick. Once you have proper hand placement on the fretboard, what you will notice playing a more expensive instrument are the clarity of the sounds coming through the soundhole (think muffled sound versus brightness of sound) and sustain (how long the sound keeps coming through the soundhole after you played a note).
If you want to get into playing for the first time, go ahead and pick this up. I would find a friend who has picked up a guitar before to tell you if the action (string height above the frets) are too high or too low and then Youtube how to fix your action height. Without luthier tools, you can use "sheets of paper" to figure out the gap between your frets and strings. Sharp fret ends? Nail file will work. Obviously, don't use a crude nail file on your $3k Martin or Taylor, but this $80 Tanglewood, have at it. It will keep your fingers from bleeding. I guarantee you that if you do get serious with playing a guitar after using this $80 Tanglewood, you "WILL" pick up a nicer guitar down the road.
Yes as a life lesson, I probably would of picked up playing guitar sooner and longer if I had a $400 Alvarez guitar as my first guitar vs the $80 Fender growing up. I didn't play guitar for nearly 20 years because my $80 Fender from guitar center was hard to play and didn't sound as nice as the music I hear on the radio, but I also did not have good playing technique and Youtube did not exist in the 1900's. I did not know in the 90's that a guitar needed to have the truss rod adjusted or the saddle/nut raised or lowered. Today with the plethora of knowledge on Youtube, a beginner has a much better shot at making a $80 Tanglewood enjoyable to play without spending $100 on a guitar setup with a Luthier.
Also Electric guitars vs Acoustic guitars are way different beasts. I am convinced that you can get the cheapest electric guitar, change our the electronics, and you will "sound" much more "expensive" when played through an Amplifier. Acoustics require much more tender love and care to sound the way you want it to sound. Wood types, body shape, string type, etc. That's why most guitar "veterans" recommend pricier acoustics because you can't really upgrade an acoustic down the road like you can in an electric guitar to get the sound you want.
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*adjusts monocle*
Setup applies to all guitars, a $3000 Martin not setup probably will play like crap. This Tanglewood if setup properly will "feel" easier to play than a $3k Martin with super high action (have to use more muscle to press down on the string" or super low action (strings buzzing on the wrong frets and the wrong notes when strumming).
Where more expensive acoustic guitars excel over a lower price guitar is tone and sustain of the sound. As a beginner, your probably don't have a clue what to expect from tone and sustain. My first $80 Fender Acoustic from Guitar Center made sounds when I strummed notes. As a beginner, that's really all you care about. A beginner probably does not have proper fretting hand structure so you are probably accidentally muting your notes as you strum or pick. Once you have proper hand placement on the fretboard, what you will notice playing a more expensive instrument are the clarity of the sounds coming through the soundhole (think muffled sound versus brightness of sound) and sustain (how long the sound keeps coming through the soundhole after you played a note).
If you want to get into playing for the first time, go ahead and pick this up. I would find a friend who has picked up a guitar before to tell you if the action (string height above the frets) are too high or too low and then Youtube how to fix your action height. Without luthier tools, you can use "sheets of paper" to figure out the gap between your frets and strings. Sharp fret ends? Nail file will work. Obviously, don't use a crude nail file on your $3k Martin or Taylor, but this $80 Tanglewood, have at it. It will keep your fingers from bleeding. I guarantee you that if you do get serious with playing a guitar after using this $80 Tanglewood, you "WILL" pick up a nicer guitar down the road.
Yes as a life lesson, I probably would of picked up playing guitar sooner and longer if I had a $400 Alvarez guitar as my first guitar vs the $80 Fender growing up. I didn't play guitar for nearly 20 years because my $80 Fender from guitar center was hard to play and didn't sound as nice as the music I hear on the radio, but I also did not have good playing technique and Youtube did not exist in the 1900's. I did not know in the 90's that a guitar needed to have the truss rod adjusted or the saddle/nut raised or lowered. Today with the plethora of knowledge on Youtube, a beginner has a much better shot at making a $80 Tanglewood enjoyable to play without spending $100 on a guitar setup with a Luthier.
Also Electric guitars vs Acoustic guitars are way different beasts. I am convinced that you can get the cheapest electric guitar, change our the electronics, and you will "sound" much more "expensive" when played through an Amplifier. Acoustics require much more tender love and care to sound the way you want it to sound. Wood types, body shape, string type, etc. That's why most guitar "veterans" recommend pricier acoustics because you can't really upgrade an acoustic down the road like you can in an electric guitar to get the sound you want.
My honest opinion, if someone wants to "learn" guitar, I would recommend an electric guitar and a decent practice amp over an acoustic as your first instrument. Much more forgiving and gives you a chance to pivot in tone where as acoustics, you want a different tone, buy a different/another guitar.
As a point of reference, if you want to "hear" the differences between laminate vs solid, or different wood types, check out https://alvarezguitars.
*adjusts monocle*
https://www.amazon.com/Jasmine-S3...BSale&th=1
P.S. Go find a "Yamaha 700 (older) or 800 (newer) series" guitar.
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Honestly, I don't know how much you are going to get out of an $80 guitar that I've never set hands on, so I'm going to start with that. There might be a limit to what can be improved.
That said, I've had a few $300 guitars and mandolins pass through my hands and part of what makes them cheap is the lack of a setup. Think of it like buying unfinished furniture, you pay less because the last few steps were skipped altogether.
Filing the nut down and getting proper string height at the first fret, adjusting the truss rod correctly for intonation, setting the proper bridge height... just doing those things can make an instrument that is borderline unplayable a decent instrument to learn on. You can take it further and clean up and polish the frets, or maybe even replace the nut or bridge or whatever else, outright. It's probably not worth investing in those things. But just setting the right string height and intonation is worthwhile on most instruments, the cheap ones more so than the expensive ones where this would have been done at the factory (what you pay for).
Saying there is "no such thing" is such horseshit, because I just told you exact steps in the process. Not sure what "lipstick" or "pimping" they are doing because the modifications are functional and not decorative.
I'm not saying to pay $300 to fix up a $250 retail guitar. I wouldn't pay more than $100 although I have no idea what the going rate is. You can do most of the work yourself just taking the time to watch a few youtube videos. A proper nut file will help, but you can buy a cheap set of welding files at Lowes/Home Depot and use those and only spend about $10. It makes a night and day difference on a cheap instrument granted you don't overdue it and create buzzing.
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