Powertool Honor US via Amazon has Greenworks 24V Cordless Plumbing Drain Auger w/ 2.0Ah Battery for Unclogging Sinks, Shower Drains, Toilets (DA24B220) for $49.99. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Deal Hunter PennyFound for finding this deal.
Details:
Powered forward or reverse feeding mechanism make the cable down or back drains automatically, and cable lock setting holds cable in place while removing tough clogs.
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Powertool Honor US via Amazon has Greenworks 24V Cordless Plumbing Drain Auger w/ 2.0Ah Battery for Unclogging Sinks, Shower Drains, Toilets (DA24B220) for $49.99. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Deal Hunter PennyFound for finding this deal.
Details:
Powered forward or reverse feeding mechanism make the cable down or back drains automatically, and cable lock setting holds cable in place while removing tough clogs.
Model: Greenworks 24 Volt Cordless Plumbing Drain Auger for Unclogging Sinks, Shower Drains, Toilets, Includes 2.0Ah Battery and Charger
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I am a licensed plumber that specializes in home repairs, so I figured I would comment on this.
The manufacturer lists you can use this to unclog a toilet. I am telling you from my experience that if you use it for that purpose instead of a traditional handheld closet auger, you are likely to either scrape the enamel coating off the toilet at best or shatter the porcelain at the neck of the toilet at worst. This cable diameter is way too thin to unclog a toilet. Also, the drain size underneath a toilet is 3 inches for most homes in my area; in layman's terms, if this cable enters that drain size, it has a real possibility of kinking up on itself and then you'll have a nightmare of a time unraveling it.
They also list it will work for 3/4" pipe. The most common scenario you would run into this would be for an air conditioner drain line stoppage. I believe this is a half truth at best because while the cable could travel through 3/4" straight pipe, it will not be able to move past any 90⁰ fittings. There have been only a handful of times I've had to use a cable in that scenario; most of the times a Kinetic Ram or Gallo Gun using a CO2 cartridge is the best tool for those stoppages.
I feel this tool would be best used for lavatory sink stoppages and bathtub stoppages accessed from the overflow plate. The flexibility of the cable would be best for bathtub stoppages to move past the p-trap whereas a more stiff cable could risk damaging the trap. If you plan to use this for a lavatory stoppage, you will need to make sure you are comfortable with removing the pop-up rod stopper to allow the cable to pass access the drain directly from the sink or disconnect the p-trap and use that way. I have found that many pop-up rod gaskets will often leak when reassembling if they are older than 10 years old.
This tool would work best for a homeowner with moderate experience in home repairs. A professional will most likely pick something like a Milwaukee M12 or M18 Drain Snake that has a longer cable length, a more durable cable, and a longer lasting battery. I could easily see this tool as something a landlord or maintenance guy would have. If you expect this to unclog a kitchen sink, the cable size may succeed in only popping a small hole through the stoppage which would allow a small improvement in drainage, but most kitchen stoppages also have a lot of built up grease that this tool will not be successful in removing.
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Dang. I just bought the Ryobi version of this the other day to unclog a line. This is a much better deal with the battery and charger included.
I just threw away my Ryobi version of this. I'll admit mine was an extreme case (found out the clog was because the previous owners of my house hadn't snaked their drains in literal decades), but the first time I used it, the clutch burned out after it fed out about 20' and couldn't pull it back in. I spent two hours retracting it, backing it out own turn at a time with a set of Vise-grips.
I'm never trusting a "self-feeding" electric again. Electric "assist" via drill attachment, sure, but only if it still has a manual handle on the drum.
I am a licensed plumber that specializes in home repairs, so I figured I would comment on this.
The manufacturer lists you can use this to unclog a toilet. I am telling you from my experience that if you use it for that purpose instead of a traditional handheld closet auger, you are likely to either scrape the enamel coating off the toilet at best or shatter the porcelain at the neck of the toilet at worst. This cable diameter is way too thin to unclog a toilet. Also, the drain size underneath a toilet is 3 inches for most homes in my area; in layman's terms, if this cable enters that drain size, it has a real possibility of kinking up on itself and then you'll have a nightmare of a time unraveling it.
They also list it will work for 3/4" pipe. The most common scenario you would run into this would be for an air conditioner drain line stoppage. I believe this is a half truth at best because while the cable could travel through 3/4" straight pipe, it will not be able to move past any 90⁰ fittings. There have been only a handful of times I've had to use a cable in that scenario; most of the times a Kinetic Ram or Gallo Gun using a CO2 cartridge is the best tool for those stoppages.
I feel this tool would be best used for lavatory sink stoppages and bathtub stoppages accessed from the overflow plate. The flexibility of the cable would be best for bathtub stoppages to move past the p-trap whereas a more stiff cable could risk damaging the trap. If you plan to use this for a lavatory stoppage, you will need to make sure you are comfortable with removing the pop-up rod stopper to allow the cable to pass access the drain directly from the sink or disconnect the p-trap and use that way. I have found that many pop-up rod gaskets will often leak when reassembling if they are older than 10 years old.
This tool would work best for a homeowner with moderate experience in home repairs. A professional will most likely pick something like a Milwaukee M12 or M18 Drain Snake that has a longer cable length, a more durable cable, and a longer lasting battery. I could easily see this tool as something a landlord or maintenance guy would have. If you expect this to unclog a kitchen sink, the cable size may succeed in only popping a small hole through the stoppage which would allow a small improvement in drainage, but most kitchen stoppages also have a lot of built up grease that this tool will not be successful in removing.
Thanks for the information.
What type of auger would you use to unclog a toilet drain (4inch) ?
I have a Ridgid 110V AC version with a separate feed tube (https://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-558...B0716HLZB7, but this is newer than mine). The separate hose and foot operated switch were a game changer for getting under mom's kitchen sink.
This is more likely a venting issue since the two probably share the same drain?
If it's not backing up in the sink, just use the drain stopper in the sink?
As the other contributor skillfully said - this tool will not do the job you will need done, if it's an older home. If it's a new home, I would contact the builder and have them correct this issue.
It's not backing up right now, but I'm worried it'll back up eventually. When I got inspections done, a plumber told recommended getting my sewers cleaned out once a year because there's a lot of visible root growth in the pipes (lots of trees on my property).
Didnt see any1 mention but if u already have a drill they make auger attachments. I believe the rigid brand one is 50$ but is very highly rated.
I've used that and still prefer the automated ones, many times you have to use these tools in awkward positions most people probably don't have 5 feet of space to stretch out their legs in front of a bathroom sink or tub and even with a drill or or god forbid a hand cranked one it gets annoying if you've got a clog further down the drain.
I can't speak for this particular tool but the generic off brand one I got on aliexpress has worked great, this is probably equal to that and you get a greenworks 24v battery with it too. I'd say it's a pretty good deal.
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I just threw away my Ryobi version of this. I'll admit mine was an extreme case (found out the clog was because the previous owners of my house hadn't snaked their drains in literal decades), but the first time I used it, the clutch burned out after it fed out about 20' and couldn't pull it back in. I spent two hours retracting it, backing it out own turn at a time with a set of Vise-grips.
I'm never trusting a "self-feeding" electric again. Electric "assist" via drill attachment, sure, but only if it still has a manual handle on the drum.
That sucks you had that experience. I guess I was fortunate to have it work for me without causing problems. I was able to have it automatically feed and retract without issue.
I am a licensed plumber that specializes in home repairs, so I figured I would comment on this.
The manufacturer lists you can use this to unclog a toilet. I am telling you from my experience that if you use it for that purpose instead of a traditional handheld closet auger, you are likely to either scrape the enamel coating off the toilet at best or shatter the porcelain at the neck of the toilet at worst. This cable diameter is way too thin to unclog a toilet. Also, the drain size underneath a toilet is 3 inches for most homes in my area; in layman's terms, if this cable enters that drain size, it has a real possibility of kinking up on itself and then you'll have a nightmare of a time unraveling it.
They also list it will work for 3/4" pipe. The most common scenario you would run into this would be for an air conditioner drain line stoppage. I believe this is a half truth at best because while the cable could travel through 3/4" straight pipe, it will not be able to move past any 90⁰ fittings. There have been only a handful of times I've had to use a cable in that scenario; most of the times a Kinetic Ram or Gallo Gun using a CO2 cartridge is the best tool for those stoppages.
I feel this tool would be best used for lavatory sink stoppages and bathtub stoppages accessed from the overflow plate. The flexibility of the cable would be best for bathtub stoppages to move past the p-trap whereas a more stiff cable could risk damaging the trap. If you plan to use this for a lavatory stoppage, you will need to make sure you are comfortable with removing the pop-up rod stopper to allow the cable to pass access the drain directly from the sink or disconnect the p-trap and use that way. I have found that many pop-up rod gaskets will often leak when reassembling if they are older than 10 years old.
This tool would work best for a homeowner with moderate experience in home repairs. A professional will most likely pick something like a Milwaukee M12 or M18 Drain Snake that has a longer cable length, a more durable cable, and a longer lasting battery. I could easily see this tool as something a landlord or maintenance guy would have. If you expect this to unclog a kitchen sink, the cable size may succeed in only popping a small hole through the stoppage which would allow a small improvement in drainage, but most kitchen stoppages also have a lot of built up grease that this tool will not be successful in removing.
I agree. When I recently had a clog in my main line. My trap was under my kitchen sink. I being the inquisitive person I am was told don't use those small electric ones or they will kink and you'll never get it out. He told me what to go buy if I wanted one. And This ain't it !!!
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The manufacturer lists you can use this to unclog a toilet. I am telling you from my experience that if you use it for that purpose instead of a traditional handheld closet auger, you are likely to either scrape the enamel coating off the toilet at best or shatter the porcelain at the neck of the toilet at worst. This cable diameter is way too thin to unclog a toilet. Also, the drain size underneath a toilet is 3 inches for most homes in my area; in layman's terms, if this cable enters that drain size, it has a real possibility of kinking up on itself and then you'll have a nightmare of a time unraveling it.
They also list it will work for 3/4" pipe. The most common scenario you would run into this would be for an air conditioner drain line stoppage. I believe this is a half truth at best because while the cable could travel through 3/4" straight pipe, it will not be able to move past any 90⁰ fittings. There have been only a handful of times I've had to use a cable in that scenario; most of the times a Kinetic Ram or Gallo Gun using a CO2 cartridge is the best tool for those stoppages.
I feel this tool would be best used for lavatory sink stoppages and bathtub stoppages accessed from the overflow plate. The flexibility of the cable would be best for bathtub stoppages to move past the p-trap whereas a more stiff cable could risk damaging the trap. If you plan to use this for a lavatory stoppage, you will need to make sure you are comfortable with removing the pop-up rod stopper to allow the cable to pass access the drain directly from the sink or disconnect the p-trap and use that way. I have found that many pop-up rod gaskets will often leak when reassembling if they are older than 10 years old.
This tool would work best for a homeowner with moderate experience in home repairs. A professional will most likely pick something like a Milwaukee M12 or M18 Drain Snake that has a longer cable length, a more durable cable, and a longer lasting battery. I could easily see this tool as something a landlord or maintenance guy would have. If you expect this to unclog a kitchen sink, the cable size may succeed in only popping a small hole through the stoppage which would allow a small improvement in drainage, but most kitchen stoppages also have a lot of built up grease that this tool will not be successful in removing.
30 Comments
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
I'm never trusting a "self-feeding" electric again. Electric "assist" via drill attachment, sure, but only if it still has a manual handle on the drum.
The manufacturer lists you can use this to unclog a toilet. I am telling you from my experience that if you use it for that purpose instead of a traditional handheld closet auger, you are likely to either scrape the enamel coating off the toilet at best or shatter the porcelain at the neck of the toilet at worst. This cable diameter is way too thin to unclog a toilet. Also, the drain size underneath a toilet is 3 inches for most homes in my area; in layman's terms, if this cable enters that drain size, it has a real possibility of kinking up on itself and then you'll have a nightmare of a time unraveling it.
They also list it will work for 3/4" pipe. The most common scenario you would run into this would be for an air conditioner drain line stoppage. I believe this is a half truth at best because while the cable could travel through 3/4" straight pipe, it will not be able to move past any 90⁰ fittings. There have been only a handful of times I've had to use a cable in that scenario; most of the times a Kinetic Ram or Gallo Gun using a CO2 cartridge is the best tool for those stoppages.
I feel this tool would be best used for lavatory sink stoppages and bathtub stoppages accessed from the overflow plate. The flexibility of the cable would be best for bathtub stoppages to move past the p-trap whereas a more stiff cable could risk damaging the trap. If you plan to use this for a lavatory stoppage, you will need to make sure you are comfortable with removing the pop-up rod stopper to allow the cable to pass access the drain directly from the sink or disconnect the p-trap and use that way. I have found that many pop-up rod gaskets will often leak when reassembling if they are older than 10 years old.
This tool would work best for a homeowner with moderate experience in home repairs. A professional will most likely pick something like a Milwaukee M12 or M18 Drain Snake that has a longer cable length, a more durable cable, and a longer lasting battery. I could easily see this tool as something a landlord or maintenance guy would have. If you expect this to unclog a kitchen sink, the cable size may succeed in only popping a small hole through the stoppage which would allow a small improvement in drainage, but most kitchen stoppages also have a lot of built up grease that this tool will not be successful in removing.
Thanks for the information.
What type of auger would you use to unclog a toilet drain (4inch) ?
If it's not backing up in the sink, just use the drain stopper in the sink?
As the other contributor skillfully said - this tool will not do the job you will need done, if it's an older home. If it's a new home, I would contact the builder and have them correct this issue.
It's indeed an older home. 1927 tudor
I can't speak for this particular tool but the generic off brand one I got on aliexpress has worked great, this is probably equal to that and you get a greenworks 24v battery with it too. I'd say it's a pretty good deal.
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I'm never trusting a "self-feeding" electric again. Electric "assist" via drill attachment, sure, but only if it still has a manual handle on the drum.
On the plus side, my tub has drained better the last few weeks after using it.
https://www.homedepot.c
The manufacturer lists you can use this to unclog a toilet. I am telling you from my experience that if you use it for that purpose instead of a traditional handheld closet auger, you are likely to either scrape the enamel coating off the toilet at best or shatter the porcelain at the neck of the toilet at worst. This cable diameter is way too thin to unclog a toilet. Also, the drain size underneath a toilet is 3 inches for most homes in my area; in layman's terms, if this cable enters that drain size, it has a real possibility of kinking up on itself and then you'll have a nightmare of a time unraveling it.
They also list it will work for 3/4" pipe. The most common scenario you would run into this would be for an air conditioner drain line stoppage. I believe this is a half truth at best because while the cable could travel through 3/4" straight pipe, it will not be able to move past any 90⁰ fittings. There have been only a handful of times I've had to use a cable in that scenario; most of the times a Kinetic Ram or Gallo Gun using a CO2 cartridge is the best tool for those stoppages.
I feel this tool would be best used for lavatory sink stoppages and bathtub stoppages accessed from the overflow plate. The flexibility of the cable would be best for bathtub stoppages to move past the p-trap whereas a more stiff cable could risk damaging the trap. If you plan to use this for a lavatory stoppage, you will need to make sure you are comfortable with removing the pop-up rod stopper to allow the cable to pass access the drain directly from the sink or disconnect the p-trap and use that way. I have found that many pop-up rod gaskets will often leak when reassembling if they are older than 10 years old.
This tool would work best for a homeowner with moderate experience in home repairs. A professional will most likely pick something like a Milwaukee M12 or M18 Drain Snake that has a longer cable length, a more durable cable, and a longer lasting battery. I could easily see this tool as something a landlord or maintenance guy would have. If you expect this to unclog a kitchen sink, the cable size may succeed in only popping a small hole through the stoppage which would allow a small improvement in drainage, but most kitchen stoppages also have a lot of built up grease that this tool will not be successful in removing.
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