Advance Auto Parts has
11-Oz Arctic Freeze Ultra Synthetic Automotive A/C Refrigerant (R-134a) on clearance for $6.95 - extra 20% off when you apply discount code
SPRING in cart =
$5.91. Select free store pickup where stock permits.
Thanks to community member
TalentedRecess733 for finding this deal.
- Note: Availability for pickup may vary by location (not available in Washington or Vermont).
Product Details:
- Auto refrigerant lets you easily recharge your car's AC
- AC leak sealer works on hoses, gaskets and O-rings
- Car AC recharge kit has moisture and acid eliminator to make your system last longer
- Find the pressure port, attach with the quick connect fitting and recharge
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Top Comments
https://www.walmart.com/ip/SuperT.../100977940
Unless you have been in a fender bender or your piping, condenser / evaporator core is damaged, the valve cores are usually the culprit for A/C leaks.
It's the first thing I replace when helping someone with their A/C. Then I use a pump to draw a vacuum to test for leaks and if it's stable for at least 30 mins, I recharge the system. So many times I've seen the red and blue caps for (or black) A/C service ports missing (which is a bad sign), which lets dirt in and gas escape. If you're missing those, replace them as soon as you can.
If you have a bad condenser, evaporator core, hoses, seals, etc... that can be found by using leak detector dye. If it's a plugged orifice tube or compressor, well that's a horse of a different color. Even still, most o-rings can be replaced cheaply if necessary, as long as you know where they are.
I go through a few of these kits that come with the valve tool.
https://www.amazon.com/Conditione...B0
https://www.amazon.com/gohantee-C...B07T2RBHR3
Other than the peculiarities of different vehicles, A/C work isn't complicated, but getting to the parts to replace them is.
I am not an expert, but I've taught myself how to use the various tools and rented the expensive ones from AutoZone. If you're handy enough, you can diagnose your own issue and repair it with very little investment.
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https://www.walmart.com/ip/SuperT.../100977940
Unless you have been in a fender bender or your piping, condenser / evaporator core is damaged, the valve cores are usually the culprit for A/C leaks.
It's the first thing I replace when helping someone with their A/C. Then I use a pump to draw a vacuum to test for leaks and if it's stable for at least 30 mins, I recharge the system. So many times I've seen the red and blue caps for (or black) A/C service ports missing (which is a bad sign), which lets dirt in and gas escape. If you're missing those, replace them as soon as you can.
If you have a bad condenser, evaporator core, hoses, seals, etc... that can be found by using leak detector dye. If it's a plugged orifice tube or compressor, well that's a horse of a different color. Even still, most o-rings can be replaced cheaply if necessary, as long as you know where they are.
I go through a few of these kits that come with the valve tool.
https://www.amazon.com/Conditione...B0
https://www.amazon.com/gohantee-C...B07T2RBHR3
Other than the peculiarities of different vehicles, A/C work isn't complicated, but getting to the parts to replace them is.
I am not an expert, but I've taught myself how to use the various tools and rented the expensive ones from AutoZone. If you're handy enough, you can diagnose your own issue and repair it with very little investment.
Put the regular stuff in and the a/c started working again.
Then i thought it would be a good idea to add a can of stop leak since we only want the car to last another year or 2. A/C stopped working after a few days
Low side pressure is still fine so I think the stop leak messed something up, A/C still blows cool air, but it wasnt ice cold like before.
---
Also something weird, it seems that warm air blows out of driver side, but cool air out of passenger side.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/SuperT.../100977940
Unless you have been in a fender bender or your piping, condenser / evaporator core is damaged, the valve cores are usually the culprit for A/C leaks.
It's the first thing I replace when helping someone with their A/C. Then I use a pump to draw a vacuum to test for leaks and if it's stable for at least 30 mins, I recharge the system. So many times I've seen the red and blue caps for (or black) A/C service ports missing (which is a bad sign), which lets dirt in and gas escape. If you're missing those, replace them as soon as you can.
If you have a bad condenser, evaporator core, hoses, seals, etc... that can be found by using leak detector dye. If it's a plugged orifice tube or compressor, well that's a horse of a different color. Even still, most o-rings can be replaced cheaply if necessary, as long as you know where they are.
I go through a few of these kits that come with the valve tool.
https://www.amazon.com/Conditione...B0
https://www.amazon.com/gohantee-C...B07T2RBHR3
Other than the peculiarities of different vehicles, A/C work isn't complicated, but getting to the parts to replace them is.
I am not an expert, but I've taught myself how to use the various tools and rented the expensive ones from AutoZone. If you're handy enough, you can diagnose your own issue and repair it with very little investment.
Also something weird, it seems that warm air blows out of driver side, but cool air out of passenger side.
Sounds like a blend door issue
I wouldn't touch refrigerant with stop leak in it for a car, even if it was cheaper. It's probably not going to do anything and you've now made sure that no shop will work on your car without replacing more stuff in your AC system. They normally test for contaminants during the evacuation so that they don't ruin their equipment. If you've got stop leak in there, either the price just went up or some places will turn you elsewhere.
As for the gauges, they're all pretty wildly innacurate (sometimes even with high-side readings) so I use a cheapo $10 trigger hose to add plain refrigerant to older vehicles that simply need a recharge because they've never had one and it's been nearly 20 years or to find a leak as I inject UV dye. Anything else and I'm probably taking it to a shop for proper service so I don't leak it every year and find myself with a larger amount of stuff to replace down the line.
You're supposed to be adding the right amount of PAG oil along with your refrigerant if you're doing a large fill, but especially when replacing a component.
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