Update: This popular deal is still available.
Costway has
Costway Energy Star Certified 12000 BTU 24 SEER2 115V Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner and Heater WiFi Enabled for $759 – $180 when you apply coupon code
XQFP10895 in cart =
$579.
Shipping is free.
Thanks to staff member
Izzy138 for finding this deal.
Note: Shipping protection charge can be removed at checkout
Product Details:
- Color: White
- Material: Metal, Aluminum, Plastic
- Indoor Unit Size: 32.5" x 12" x 8"
- Outdoor Unit Size: 28" x 11" x 21"
- Max Control Distance: 26 ft
- Cooling Capacity: 12000 BTU
- Heating Capacity: 12300 BTU
- Cooling Power: 960W
- Heating Power: 850W
- Voltage: 115V~60Hz
- Heat Pump: 1 ton
- Coverage Area: 750 sq.ft
- Dehumidifying Capacity: 51 Pints/Day
- Air Flow Rate: 412 CFM
- Temperature Setting Range: 60℉~90℉
- Refrigeration: R32
- HSPF: 210
- SEER: 224
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Top Comments
Could you terminate to a plug? Yes. Should you? Probably not. Feels like that would not meet code, but I can't confirm that. Just sounds suspect.
That said, I have a Costway 18K BTU mini split in my 1,000 sqft shop with very little insulation. It works well, but it isn't but enough for the shop. I knew that putting it in. I paid $589 about a year ago, but no WiFi on mine. 220 volt
I installed it, and consider myself slightly above novice. I know enough to be dangerous. Plenty of online videos. Only odd tool you need is an HVAC vacuum. Otherwise all the tools you need you probably already have.
Instructions are detailed good. The only issue I had was really around the electrical wiring . The wire colors on the unit did not match the instructions, so it took me a bit to figure it out.
--
Power = Current x Voltage
110v x 10 amps = 1100 watts.
220v x 5 amps = 1100 watts.
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Heck, a window unit or portable can pull 1,200W so I wouldn't worry too much.
If its below 5 in houston its probably a nuclear winter
I didn't find vacuuming the units very difficult. You just need a vacuum pump kit, review some YouTube videos and be patient
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Thanks for answering, will check it out
From what I understand, 220 units are generally more power efficient than 110
This. I talked to an HVAC guy and they said it's typically from incorrect installation/tightening of the lines. The flared lines are apparently pretty delicate, so over tightening can cause leak, as well as under tightening
which would you recommend?
Fwiw, i I have a pioneer unit that crapped out after a year or so. On the up side, as long as your unit is registered, you get 5yrs warranty I believe. Warranty process was cake -- they just shipped out the parts prettyuch with no fuss. You're responsible for procuring your own install labor though
Sorry, but that's simply not true. There's no such law of thermodynamics, and there are heat pumps that can operate well below that.
It's simply a matter of matching the refrigerant used to the temperature range desired.
There are multiple "cold climate" heat pumps that have been developed in recent years that work well below that temperature. Mitsubishi has the Hyper Heat line, Pioneer has Hyperformance, etc., they all still work below -20 degrees f (getting less efficient as it gets colder, but they both heat well at -5 and can operate down at -22.)
But those high-performance high-efficiency models are a lot more expensive, and most of us don't need that kind of cold climate performance.
Searching fp10302us-wh takes me to a different model at costwav with a seer2 rating of 20.
The only reason I am considering ordering this for my travel trailer is for the Seer2 rating of 24, as that would run on 600 watts as opposed to 800 watts on the seer2 20 model. 600 watts would be pretty easy to run on 2 solar panels and still charge batteries at the same time, where 800 watts would probably need 3 panels
Now I don't know if it is worth it to sell my uninstalled pioneer 12k 19Seer2 model and buy this one or not
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Since I see several people giving bad info.
I'm headed to an event and will get into greater detail when I have time.
The 120v unit here is. 960w that works out to a max draw of about 8 amps while on high.
The same thing in 220v is also 960w divide that by 220v you get 4.36 amps nearly half at the same max setting.
So to help explain this… the 120v one will be drawing 8amps on a single phase which your electrical meter will show you taking 8 amps and your bill will reflect this.
The 220v one will be just a bit over 4.3 amps on both A&B phases, which your electrical meter sees this as 4.3 amps and your bill will be less.
The meters look at which ever phase is the highest and charges to that number, that's why balancing your panel load can save you money.
--
Power = Current x Voltage
110v x 10 amps = 1100 watts.
220v x 5 amps = 1100 watts.
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