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expiredIzzy138 | Staff posted May 15, 2025 2:50 PM

Costway 12000 BTU 24 SEER2 115V Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner & Heater w/ WiFi

$579

$1,518

61% off
+ Free Shippingat Costway
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Deal Details
Update: This popular deal is still available.

Costway has Costway Energy Star Certified 12000 BTU 24 SEER2 115V Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner and Heater WiFi Enabled for $759 – $180 when you apply coupon code XQFP10895 in cart = $579. Shipping is free.

Thanks to staff member Izzy138 for finding this deal.

Note: Shipping protection charge can be removed at checkout

Product Details:
  • Color: White
  • Material: Metal, Aluminum, Plastic
  • Indoor Unit Size: 32.5" x 12" x 8"
  • Outdoor Unit Size: 28" x 11" x 21"
  • Max Control Distance: 26 ft
  • Cooling Capacity: 12000 BTU
  • Heating Capacity: 12300 BTU
  • Cooling Power: 960W
  • Heating Power: 850W
  • Voltage: 115V~60Hz
  • Heat Pump: 1 ton
  • Coverage Area: 750 sq.ft
  • Dehumidifying Capacity: 51 Pints/Day
  • Air Flow Rate: 412 CFM
  • Temperature Setting Range: 60℉~90℉
  • Refrigeration: R32
  • HSPF: 210
  • SEER: 224

Editor's Notes

Written by RevOne | Staff

Original Post

Written by Izzy138 | Staff
Community Notes
About the Poster
Deal Details
Community Notes
About the Poster
Update: This popular deal is still available.

Costway has Costway Energy Star Certified 12000 BTU 24 SEER2 115V Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner and Heater WiFi Enabled for $759 – $180 when you apply coupon code XQFP10895 in cart = $579. Shipping is free.

Thanks to staff member Izzy138 for finding this deal.

Note: Shipping protection charge can be removed at checkout

Product Details:
  • Color: White
  • Material: Metal, Aluminum, Plastic
  • Indoor Unit Size: 32.5" x 12" x 8"
  • Outdoor Unit Size: 28" x 11" x 21"
  • Max Control Distance: 26 ft
  • Cooling Capacity: 12000 BTU
  • Heating Capacity: 12300 BTU
  • Cooling Power: 960W
  • Heating Power: 850W
  • Voltage: 115V~60Hz
  • Heat Pump: 1 ton
  • Coverage Area: 750 sq.ft
  • Dehumidifying Capacity: 51 Pints/Day
  • Air Flow Rate: 412 CFM
  • Temperature Setting Range: 60℉~90℉
  • Refrigeration: R32
  • HSPF: 210
  • SEER: 224

Editor's Notes

Written by RevOne | Staff

Original Post

Written by Izzy138 | Staff

Community Voting

Deal Score
+85
Good Deal
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220 Comments

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May 16, 2025 8:36 PM
2.8K Comments
Joined Jun 2012
lennonstMay 16, 2025 8:36 PM
2.8K Comments
Quote from baller11111 :
just switch the breaker and you have 110, most likely no need to run a new wire (check the gauge and run length with amps). Each model has the efficiency listed...that is what matters, not 110 vs 220
Not exactly how it works.
May 16, 2025 8:42 PM
144 Comments
Joined May 2015
fafzaMay 16, 2025 8:42 PM
144 Comments
Does the AC power need to be supplied to the condenser or the air handler?
May 16, 2025 8:46 PM
840 Comments
Joined Apr 2008
AoDAzraelMay 16, 2025 8:46 PM
840 Comments
Quote from Carlosos :
You should be able to put 2 of them on one 20 amp circuit and still be below the 80% max for continues use applications. With one on a 20 amp circuit you still got 1440W to be used which is enough for most other things.
Yeah, but I'm willing to bet that when talkinng about an outlet most people are thinking of using a 15A. Should still be OK in MOST cases, but not if someone's got some crazy gaming PC setup and a mini beverage fridge on that same circuit.
May 16, 2025 8:48 PM
187 Comments
Joined Jan 2016
Mr.FixerUpperMay 16, 2025 8:48 PM
187 Comments
Quote from cormudgen :
I already have 220 pulled for an existing 10 year old Daikan. I'm capable of taking the circuit down to 110 (and arguably could use another free slot in my panel as i'm close to maxing out). The 220 version is $50 more. Any advantages to staying with 220?
Keep in mind that if you plan on running your house on a smaller generator that is not 220/240 capable, you will not be able to run this AC. If you are on a 115, you can likely squeeze this AC load at least when needed.
2
May 16, 2025 9:23 PM
2.5K Comments
Joined Apr 2005
dealjumprMay 16, 2025 9:23 PM
2.5K Comments
For those that intend to put just use a plug instead of hardwired, you can probably put it in eco mode and it will stay well below 500W. Not legal but it's hard times right now so you do you.

Heck, a window unit or portable can pull 1,200W so I wouldn't worry too much.
May 16, 2025 9:28 PM
453 Comments
Joined Jan 2019
slammin_sammyMay 16, 2025 9:28 PM
453 Comments
Quote from luvboox :
If Houston gets below 5° you probably won't have electricity 😉
All these hypotheticals are kind of ironic; I equate it to someone who refuses to invest money with blue chip companies in the stock market. If those companies drop to zero and you lose all your money, there are MUCH bigger problems than your 401k.

If its below 5 in houston its probably a nuclear winter
1
May 16, 2025 9:28 PM
38 Comments
Joined Aug 2011
extreme_raccoon_8736May 16, 2025 9:28 PM
38 Comments
Quote from hajalie24 :
How hard is it to vacuum the lines? I've installed a BlueRidge DIY system (similar to MRCOOL) myself and it was fairly easy. My utility is offering impressive rebates and I was about to buy a crap ton more of the DIY units but these ones are tempting too.
I didn't find vacuuming the units very difficult. You just need a vacuum pump kit, review some YouTube videos and be patient

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May 16, 2025 9:41 PM
1.1K Comments
Joined May 2009
hajalie24May 16, 2025 9:41 PM
1.1K Comments
Quote from extreme_raccoon_8736 :
I didn't find vacuuming the units very difficult. You just need a vacuum pump kit, review some YouTube videos and be patient
Thanks for answering, will check it out
May 16, 2025 9:42 PM
297 Comments
Joined May 2008

This comment has been rated as unhelpful by Slickdeals users.

May 16, 2025 9:47 PM
1.4K Comments
Joined Jul 2009
xllbenllxMay 16, 2025 9:47 PM
1.4K Comments
Quote from cormudgen :
I already have 220 pulled for an existing 10 year old Daikan. I'm capable of taking the circuit down to 110 (and arguably could use another free slot in my panel as i'm close to maxing out). The 220 version is $50 more. Any advantages to staying with 220?
From what I understand, 220 units are generally more power efficient than 110
1
May 16, 2025 9:49 PM
1.4K Comments
Joined Jul 2009
xllbenllxMay 16, 2025 9:49 PM
1.4K Comments
Quote from Zdog628 :
Unless it's a condensor failure, which if yours runs and needs "topping off" its likely not a condensor failure, the small leaks are at the connections from freeze/thaw. Re-flare the copper tubing ends and get new fittings. $20 if you're a plumber with tools, $300 to hire someone.
This. I talked to an HVAC guy and they said it's typically from incorrect installation/tightening of the lines. The flared lines are apparently pretty delicate, so over tightening can cause leak, as well as under tightening
May 16, 2025 9:51 PM
1.4K Comments
Joined Jul 2009
xllbenllxMay 16, 2025 9:51 PM
1.4K Comments
Quote from BigPapa2 :
Anyone has experience with costway vs pioneer vs tosot? I'm researching which of the three brands is better as they're about the same price and either made by gree or aux

which would you recommend?
Fwiw, i I have a pioneer unit that crapped out after a year or so. On the up side, as long as your unit is registered, you get 5yrs warranty I believe. Warranty process was cake -- they just shipped out the parts prettyuch with no fuss. You're responsible for procuring your own install labor though
May 16, 2025 10:00 PM
58 Comments
Joined Dec 2015
TheMentalNomadMay 16, 2025 10:00 PM
58 Comments
Quote from canyonheights9 :
No 3 stage heat pump can operate below -5f - it's a basic law of thermodynamics. If 4 stage maybe. But that requires a electric condenser heater - which will cost a fortune to use.
"No 3 stage heat pump can operate below -5f - it's a basic law of thermodynamics."
Sorry, but that's simply not true. There's no such law of thermodynamics, and there are heat pumps that can operate well below that.
It's simply a matter of matching the refrigerant used to the temperature range desired.
There are multiple "cold climate" heat pumps that have been developed in recent years that work well below that temperature. Mitsubishi has the Hyper Heat line, Pioneer has Hyperformance, etc., they all still work below -20 degrees f (getting less efficient as it gets colder, but they both heat well at -5 and can operate down at -22.)
But those high-performance high-efficiency models are a lot more expensive, and most of us don't need that kind of cold climate performance.
May 16, 2025 10:03 PM
1.5K Comments
Joined Mar 2006
juddevMay 16, 2025 10:03 PM
1.5K Comments
I just called costway and asked what model number this is and they told me fp10302us-wh
Searching fp10302us-wh takes me to a different model at costwav with a seer2 rating of 20.
The only reason I am considering ordering this for my travel trailer is for the Seer2 rating of 24, as that would run on 600 watts as opposed to 800 watts on the seer2 20 model. 600 watts would be pretty easy to run on 2 solar panels and still charge batteries at the same time, where 800 watts would probably need 3 panels

Now I don't know if it is worth it to sell my uninstalled pioneer 12k 19Seer2 model and buy this one or not
Last edited by juddev May 16, 2025 at 03:06 PM.

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May 16, 2025 10:26 PM
390 Comments
Joined Jun 2011
MidniteoylMay 16, 2025 10:26 PM
390 Comments
Quote from Tatersalad :
It'will be more efficient being on 220v. I always prefer the 220v versions. Same wire, breaker is more because it's a two pull. For some reason some people have an idea anything 220 costs more electricity, it's just the opposite you get the benefit of both phases…

Since I see several people giving bad info.

I'm headed to an event and will get into greater detail when I have time.

The 120v unit here is. 960w that works out to a max draw of about 8 amps while on high.

The same thing in 220v is also 960w divide that by 220v you get 4.36 amps nearly half at the same max setting.

So to help explain this… the 120v one will be drawing 8amps on a single phase which your electrical meter will show you taking 8 amps and your bill will reflect this.
The 220v one will be just a bit over 4.3 amps on both A&B phases, which your electrical meter sees this as 4.3 amps and your bill will be less.

The meters look at which ever phase is the highest and charges to that number, that's why balancing your panel load can save you money.
You are charged for the *power* (watts) you use, not the amps..

--

Power = Current x Voltage

110v x 10 amps = 1100 watts.

220v x 5 amps = 1100 watts.

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