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Model: Hooyman 4lb Club Sledge Hammer with Heavy Duty Construction, Ergonomic No-Slip H-Grip Handles, Solid Fiberglass Cores, and Epoxy Sealed Heads for Construction, Gardening, Yard Work, and Outdoors
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I have both a 4 and 6 lb that are ten inches in total and they both work wonderfully for what they are designed for. A 4 lb sledge is typically short handled as it gives you great control yet still plenty of power. For chiseling, drilling or driving application where you are holding the tool you do not want a long hammer handle. Long handles also do not work well in tight areas like under car.
It's hammer time
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It's hammer time
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I've got a 4 lb hand sledge that's 12" long and I thought that was short. This is 1 1/2" even shorter.
Using a 4 lb hammer with a handle this short isn't a whole lot different than just gripping the head and using it like a caveman would with a rock.
I've got a 4 lb hand sledge that's 12" long and I thought that was short. This is 1 1/2" even shorter.
Using a 4 lb hammer with a handle this short isn't a whole lot different than just gripping the head and using it like a caveman would with a rock.
I have both a 4 and 6 lb that are ten inches in total and they both work wonderfully for what they are designed for. A 4 lb sledge is typically short handled as it gives you great control yet still plenty of power. For chiseling, drilling or driving application where you are holding the tool you do not want a long hammer handle. Long handles also do not work well in tight areas like under car.
I would often use this to drive stakes in the ground, so I guess if you're attacking a vampire... work started training me this last week to be a GPS surveyor, and this type of thing looks useful to have to go out and knock nails through asphalt, or to put wooden Stakes or hubs in the ground
it's really not the best tool for the job, but you could also use it to drive fence posts. you know those metal ones that you tie wire a wire to
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Just ordered one thanks op. Gonna be replacing the leftover bricks I've been using to smash down yard trimmings for more room in which has been basically a weekly thing.
I have both a 4 and 6 lb that are ten inches in total and they both work wonderfully for what they are designed for. A 4 lb sledge is typically short handled as it gives you great control yet still plenty of power. For chiseling, drilling or driving application where you are holding the tool you do not want a long hammer handle. Long handles also do not work well in tight areas like under car.
You're vague when you're referring to "long handles". The word 'long' is subjective.
Would you consider this 14.88" hand sledge to be too 'long handled'? https://www.amazon.com/Spec-Ops-E...B0DBVYB16P
I wasn't asking for the Hooyman handle to be 18" to 24" long. But approx 14" is reasonable.
I'm simply saying this Hooyman sledge with a TOTAL length of 10.5" will bring some shortcomings that ppl apparently miss.
Contrary to what you think, a sledge with a bit longer handle (12" handle, approx 14" total tool length) actually works better in most tight areas than the same weight hand sledge that's only 10" in total length. There's a technique for working a 3-5 lb hand sledge that involves using both hands on the handle and using the mid-point of the handle as a pivot point. It's been shown to create far stronger impacts from the head than even possible with a short (under 10" handle) in confined spaces.
One must also realize that if you're working in a tight area, with limited swing area, that 4-5 lb head isn't going to build up much velocity and impact, starting from stationary position, swinging with one hand. Even if you're Arnold Schwarzenegger. That's where the slightly longer handle technique comes in.
Also, maintaining full control while using any hammer or sledge shouldn't/doesn't require a 'less than 8.5" handle'. The control comes from the abilities/skills of the user, not the handle length.
You're vague when you're referring to "long handles". The word 'long' is subjective.
Would you consider this 14.88" hand sledge to be too 'long handled'? https://www.amazon.com/Spec-Ops-E...B0DBVYB16P[amazon.com]
I wasn't asking for the Hooyman handle to be 18" to 24" long. But approx 14" is reasonable.
I'm simply saying this Hooyman sledge with a TOTAL length of 10.5" will bring some shortcomings that ppl apparently miss.
Contrary to what you think, a sledge with a bit longer handle (12" handle, approx 14" total tool length) actually works better in most tight areas than the same weight hand sledge that's only 10" in total length. There's a technique for working a 3-5 lb hand sledge that involves using both hands on the handle and using the mid-point of the handle as a pivot point. It's been shown to create far stronger impacts from the head than even possible with a short (under 10" handle) in confined spaces.
One must also realize that if you're working in a tight area, with limited swing area, that 4-5 lb head isn't going to build up much velocity and impact, starting from stationary position, swinging with one hand. Even if you're Arnold Schwarzenegger. That's where the slightly longer handle technique comes in.
Also, maintaining full control while using any hammer or sledge shouldn't/doesn't require a 'less than 8.5" handle'. The control comes from the abilities/skills of the user, not the handle length.
In you rush to embarrass cavemen you forgot the physics they knew and you do not. That is why pile drivers are still used everywhere. Why use swing, muscle and bone when you can use mass to deliver power? It is you that will have people confused about the use of a mull and have them turning away form one of the most useful I tools there can be. A long handles sledge is the specialty tool.
One must realize that the point of heavy mulls is that the force comes from the mass versus your muscle. If you long arc swing them like crazy man every time you are missing the point and the benefits of physics and wearing out muscle, tendon and bone unnecessarily.
Your original thought about the caveman with the stone is correct but you missed why the concept is so critical and still used in to many applications to count. It is just why short handled mulls are so good.
You can kind of just drop them to apply force.You do not need to apply extra power you can kind of let the mass do the work for you. Keeping that mass close to hand makes for accuracy without an need for long swings or swings at all. That is just how I find myself using short handled mulls and it is what they are designed for. My arm does not go behind me to swing it stay close to the tool in front of me and I am usually kind of tapping.
A 14" handle for hand work is to long. Think of the physical geometry when you are swing a sledge at a tool in your hand with your other hand. A long handle is problematic and recipe for disaster.
It is the the same reason you do not swing a long handle framing hammer when you are setting finish nails or driving a punch or chisel. My 13" inch general purpose Estwing claw hammer is really to long for many applications and I notice that I choke up to about 10" when using it for that type work. Estwing knows that and actually designed the handle with a second swell there to give better purchase at that point. That swell ends right at 9" and is often the place I am grabbing the hammer when doing it naturally where it feels right and wears on the body the least. Most jobs do not always require maximum power or force applied. If someone gave you that idea dissuade yourself from it as you will be messing up many things and wearing yourself out for no reason.
Hammers are always not about brute force be they sledges or regular. The mass of sledge is enough to do many things and you do not have to do long and powerful swings to use one. All work is not demolition. Mulls can be used to finesse.
Again short handles on a 4lb sledge are typical and are not a problem. In fact I find more use for my short handle sledges than I do for the long handle ones. The ratio of use must be about 20 to 1 or more. The long handles are the far less frequently used and the more niche tool. Tapping or short almost no swing use applications where the mass is your friend and you do not have to do long arc swings are a much more common use than long swing demolition work where your swing like you are trying to kill something. The point of short handle sledge is almost always that you do not have to swing, you more tap letting the mass do the work. If I need more force I grab a heavier short handle sledge.
I've been gutting and remodeling my house for the last four years and the long handle sledges have came out about twice, the short handle sledges are always out and in use. I found the same when I was doing residential home improvement. If you only consider sledges for demotion like when I was knocking down the deck your theories and ideas might alright but that is a very limiting idea about the uses of sledges and mauls.
Do yourself a favor stop theorizing and watching youtube videos about more power and get a short handle mull and learn how to use it. It will stop you from some crazy process and two hand technique with to long a maul while jammed up under a car trying to get a rotor off. Care to tell us how exactly how we get our body and two hands, long handle mull, elbows, arms, shoulders and larger arc to swing in there? Did the video get into that or was it just theory all about maximum force?
Last edited by DonV1962 May 25, 2025 at 10:04 AM.
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In you rush to embarrass cavemen you forgot the physics they knew and you do not. That is why pile drivers are still used everywhere. Why use swing, muscle and bone when you can use mass to deliver power? It is you that will have people confused about the use of a mull and have them turning away form one of the most useful I tools there can be. A long handles sledge is the specialty tool.One must realize that the point of heavy mulls is that the force comes from the mass versus your muscle. If you long arc swing them like crazy man every time you are missing the point and the benefits of physics and wearing out muscle, tendon and bone unnecessarily.Your original thought about the caveman with the stone is correct but you missed why the concept is so critical and still used in to many applications to count. It is just why short handled mulls are so good.You can kind of just drop them to apply force.You do not need to apply extra power you can kind of let the mass do the work for you. Keeping that mass close to hand makes for accuracy without an need for long swings or swings at all. That is just how I find myself using short handled mulls and it is what they are designed for. My arm does not go behind me to swing it stay close to the tool in front of me and I am usually kind of tapping.A 14" handle for hand work is to long. Think of the physical geometry when you are swing a sledge at a tool in your hand with your other hand. A long handle is problematic and recipe for disaster. It is the the same reason you do not swing a long handle framing hammer when you are setting finish nails or driving a punch or chisel. My 13" inch general purpose Estwing claw hammer is really to long for many applications and I notice that I choke up to about 10" when using it for that type work. Estwing knows that and actually designed the handle with a second swell there to give better purchase at that point. That swell ends right at 9" and is often the place I am grabbing the hammer when doing it naturally where it feels right and wears on the body the least. Most jobs do not always require maximum power or force applied. If someone gave you that idea dissuade yourself from it as you will be messing up many things and wearing yourself out for no reason.Hammers are always not about brute force be they sledges or regular. The mass of sledge is enough to do many things and you do not have to do long and powerful swings to use one. All work is not demolition. Mulls can be used to finesse.Again short handles on a 4lb sledge are typical and are not a problem. In fact I find more use for my short handle sledges than I do for the long handle ones. The ratio of use must be about 20 to 1 or more. The long handles are the far less frequently used and the more niche tool. Tapping or short almost no swing use applications where the mass is your friend and you do not have to do long arc swings are a much more common use than long swing demolition work where your swing like you are trying to kill something. The point of short handle sledge is almost always that you do not have to swing, you more tap letting the mass do the work. If I need more force I grab a heavier short handle sledge.I've been gutting and remodeling my house for the last four years and the long handle sledges have came out about twice, the short handle sledges are always out and in use. I found the same when I was doing residential home improvement. If you only consider sledges for demotion like when I was knocking down the deck your theories and ideas might alright but that is a very limiting idea about the uses of sledges and mauls.Do yourself a favor stop theorizing and watching youtube videos about more power and get a short handle mull and learn how to use it. It will stop you from some crazy process and two hand technique with to long a maul while jammed up under a car trying to get a rotor off. Care to tell us how exactly how we get our body and two hands, long handle mull, elbows, arms, shoulders and larger arc to swing in there? Did the video get into that or was it just theory all about maximum force?
Brush up on your reading comprehension. It fails miserably.
Also, a 4 lb hammer head isn't what any reasonable person would call a lot of mass.
Plus... newsflash, a 10" to 12" handle is NOT a "long handled" sledge.
Where do you even get a 14" handle?
That was the TOTAL length (again, reading comprehension), so subtract a few inches for the head and the typical flare at the handle end.
Where do you even get "a long swing"? LOL You are envisioning a fairy tale scenario that's far different than the reality I'm talking about.
I've been using hammers and sledges of every type and weight, for far more various jobs for a helleva lot longer than you, especially with anvil work, I can assure you, so get off your high 'play-pony' horse, and try to keep your wild thought processes in check, as they do not resemble the facts and reality that was in my words.
It's also laughable that you STILL don't understand even one iota of the two-hand hand sledge technique for certain tight areas. smh
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Using a 4 lb hammer with a handle this short isn't a whole lot different than just gripping the head and using it like a caveman would with a rock.
Using a 4 lb hammer with a handle this short isn't a whole lot different than just gripping the head and using it like a caveman would with a rock.
I would often use this to drive stakes in the ground, so I guess if you're attacking a vampire... work started training me this last week to be a GPS surveyor, and this type of thing looks useful to have to go out and knock nails through asphalt, or to put wooden Stakes or hubs in the ground
it's really not the best tool for the job, but you could also use it to drive fence posts. you know those metal ones that you tie wire a wire to
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Would you consider this 14.88" hand sledge to be too 'long handled'? https://www.amazon.com/Spec-Ops-E...B0DBVYB16P
I wasn't asking for the Hooyman handle to be 18" to 24" long. But approx 14" is reasonable.
I'm simply saying this Hooyman sledge with a TOTAL length of 10.5" will bring some shortcomings that ppl apparently miss.
Contrary to what you think, a sledge with a bit longer handle (12" handle, approx 14" total tool length) actually works better in most tight areas than the same weight hand sledge that's only 10" in total length. There's a technique for working a 3-5 lb hand sledge that involves using both hands on the handle and using the mid-point of the handle as a pivot point. It's been shown to create far stronger impacts from the head than even possible with a short (under 10" handle) in confined spaces.
One must also realize that if you're working in a tight area, with limited swing area, that 4-5 lb head isn't going to build up much velocity and impact, starting from stationary position, swinging with one hand. Even if you're Arnold Schwarzenegger. That's where the slightly longer handle technique comes in.
Also, maintaining full control while using any hammer or sledge shouldn't/doesn't require a 'less than 8.5" handle'. The control comes from the abilities/skills of the user, not the handle length.
Would you consider this 14.88" hand sledge to be too 'long handled'? https://www.amazon.com/Spec-Ops-E...B0DBVYB16P [amazon.com]
I wasn't asking for the Hooyman handle to be 18" to 24" long. But approx 14" is reasonable.
I'm simply saying this Hooyman sledge with a TOTAL length of 10.5" will bring some shortcomings that ppl apparently miss.
Contrary to what you think, a sledge with a bit longer handle (12" handle, approx 14" total tool length) actually works better in most tight areas than the same weight hand sledge that's only 10" in total length. There's a technique for working a 3-5 lb hand sledge that involves using both hands on the handle and using the mid-point of the handle as a pivot point. It's been shown to create far stronger impacts from the head than even possible with a short (under 10" handle) in confined spaces.
One must also realize that if you're working in a tight area, with limited swing area, that 4-5 lb head isn't going to build up much velocity and impact, starting from stationary position, swinging with one hand. Even if you're Arnold Schwarzenegger. That's where the slightly longer handle technique comes in.
Also, maintaining full control while using any hammer or sledge shouldn't/doesn't require a 'less than 8.5" handle'. The control comes from the abilities/skills of the user, not the handle length.
One must realize that the point of heavy mulls is that the force comes from the mass versus your muscle. If you long arc swing them like crazy man every time you are missing the point and the benefits of physics and wearing out muscle, tendon and bone unnecessarily.
Your original thought about the caveman with the stone is correct but you missed why the concept is so critical and still used in to many applications to count. It is just why short handled mulls are so good.
You can kind of just drop them to apply force.You do not need to apply extra power you can kind of let the mass do the work for you. Keeping that mass close to hand makes for accuracy without an need for long swings or swings at all. That is just how I find myself using short handled mulls and it is what they are designed for. My arm does not go behind me to swing it stay close to the tool in front of me and I am usually kind of tapping.
A 14" handle for hand work is to long. Think of the physical geometry when you are swing a sledge at a tool in your hand with your other hand. A long handle is problematic and recipe for disaster.
It is the the same reason you do not swing a long handle framing hammer when you are setting finish nails or driving a punch or chisel. My 13" inch general purpose Estwing claw hammer is really to long for many applications and I notice that I choke up to about 10" when using it for that type work. Estwing knows that and actually designed the handle with a second swell there to give better purchase at that point. That swell ends right at 9" and is often the place I am grabbing the hammer when doing it naturally where it feels right and wears on the body the least. Most jobs do not always require maximum power or force applied. If someone gave you that idea dissuade yourself from it as you will be messing up many things and wearing yourself out for no reason.
Hammers are always not about brute force be they sledges or regular. The mass of sledge is enough to do many things and you do not have to do long and powerful swings to use one. All work is not demolition. Mulls can be used to finesse.
Again short handles on a 4lb sledge are typical and are not a problem. In fact I find more use for my short handle sledges than I do for the long handle ones. The ratio of use must be about 20 to 1 or more. The long handles are the far less frequently used and the more niche tool. Tapping or short almost no swing use applications where the mass is your friend and you do not have to do long arc swings are a much more common use than long swing demolition work where your swing like you are trying to kill something. The point of short handle sledge is almost always that you do not have to swing, you more tap letting the mass do the work. If I need more force I grab a heavier short handle sledge.
I've been gutting and remodeling my house for the last four years and the long handle sledges have came out about twice, the short handle sledges are always out and in use. I found the same when I was doing residential home improvement. If you only consider sledges for demotion like when I was knocking down the deck your theories and ideas might alright but that is a very limiting idea about the uses of sledges and mauls.
Do yourself a favor stop theorizing and watching youtube videos about more power and get a short handle mull and learn how to use it. It will stop you from some crazy process and two hand technique with to long a maul while jammed up under a car trying to get a rotor off. Care to tell us how exactly how we get our body and two hands, long handle mull, elbows, arms, shoulders and larger arc to swing in there? Did the video get into that or was it just theory all about maximum force?
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Also, a 4 lb hammer head isn't what any reasonable person would call a lot of mass.
Plus... newsflash, a 10" to 12" handle is NOT a "long handled" sledge.
Where do you even get a 14" handle?
That was the TOTAL length (again, reading comprehension), so subtract a few inches for the head and the typical flare at the handle end.
Where do you even get "a long swing"? LOL You are envisioning a fairy tale scenario that's far different than the reality I'm talking about.
I've been using hammers and sledges of every type and weight, for far more various jobs for a helleva lot longer than you, especially with anvil work, I can assure you, so get off your high 'play-pony' horse, and try to keep your wild thought processes in check, as they do not resemble the facts and reality that was in my words.
It's also laughable that you STILL don't understand even one iota of the two-hand hand sledge technique for certain tight areas. smh