expiredv_h posted Jul 08, 2025 12:07 PM
Item 1 of 3
Item 1 of 3
expiredv_h posted Jul 08, 2025 12:07 PM
Prime Members: Midea U-Shaped AC Window Air Conditioner: 10,000BTU $320, 8,000BTU
& More + Free Shipping$280
$380
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Anyway, mine was on the list (less than one year old, from Costco), filled out the webform immediately after the recall, they sent me a link for a photo of cord cut, did that in a week and in three weeks I got the virtual debit card.
As an engineering (ECE&CS) professor, I decided to read up on the LCDI (Leakage current detection interface) protection they use. This is what I learned and just for information.
It is for cord damage and current leaking (from Line or neutral) out of the conductors leading to quick fire (cause: dog chewing, people stepping on it or AC sitting on the cord, you name it; A simple caution perhaps a better choice but this is first world with first world solutions). I found two small sensor wires outside of L and N conductor insulating jackets and each wrapped in something like aluminum foils. These two sensor lines and sensing/actuator electronic circuit are used at the plug end to sense any leakage and trip the circuit. At the device end (the AC or whatever), these sensor wires seem to be not connected (I also kind of guessed this from looking at AC replacement cords available at HD or Amazon as I did not want to spend energy opening up the AC unit. They are PITA) and simply shorted at the device end and sealed with electrical tape or equivalent.
I came across a circuit schematic by a tear down of the LCDI plug but that diagram seems to be little different from the one used by Midea (everyone has their own patented circuit). But again, I did not open my LCDI plug. Too much unnecessary work for this senior citizen
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I just finished installing it. Compared to my original U model the new one has a vastly improved mounting system that makes it much easier to install, and feels much more secure.
It also comes with ~8 of the new drain plugs, you only need one, but the rest are spare in case you need to replace it. I'll see if I can easily replace one from my original unit. I never had issues with water buildup, but wouldn't hurt.
Link [youtube.com]
Mold can be an issue on pretty much all window A/C units and IMO should be monitored.
The water at the heart of the issue is humidity from the interior air condensing on the "cold" coil. Dehumidifying the interior air is desirable for comfort. But the water needs to be dealt with. With a central A/C, it just drains into a drain (or gets pumped with a condensate pump to a sink or something).
Much older window A/C units were designed to just have this water drain out the back and drip down onto the world below. Somewhere along the line, designs changed so this water would collect/pool under the big exterior fan that blows air onto the "hot" coil to cool it, so this fan would splash the water onto the coil to help cool it, improving efficiency and also reducing the amount that would otherwise drip onto whatever was below the unit, since it would evaporate when splashed onto the "hot" coil.
When the unit stopped, there would still be a little water pooled. Mold resulted and apparently in such a way that the portion where interior air moved could be exposed. Issue was prevalent enough in these Mideas to warrant a recall.
Some people didn't care about the bump in efficiency or the dripping of water onto the world below, and drilled a hole into their new window A/C, Midea or otherwise.
The "redesign" is just the addition of a drain plug that does let water drip out, but slowly so that water can still pool enough while the unit is running to be splashed onto the hot coil so as to improve efficiency and largely evaporate rather than dripping onto the world below. But when the unit stops, any standing water will now drip away before it would become a problem.
Running a window A/C can actually help cool a house more efficiently than central A/C. Central A/C requires a powerful blower to move the home's air to it, and then back out throughout the home through the ductwork. Putting a window AC on the second floor especially takes advantage of physics with warm air natually rising to the upstairs where the window AC can cool it. So physics is largely bringing the warm air to be cooled upstairs into the range of the window unit free of charge.
It's not the same as central A/C in terms of how evenly the rooms of the home are cooled, and moving air through a central A/C does offer the benefit of being able to move it through a filter, and just in general preventing "stale" air, so like anything it's a tradeoff.
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Would it make sense to get one of these to cool the second floor of the house (~1000 sq ft) during peak time instead of using the central AC.? In fact, perhaps get wo - one for the first floor as well.
Link [youtube.com]
Did the truepic credit option it took them 6 days to approve throwing out the old unit.
went to costco bought a new $359 12k unit
new one still throttles down to 130w so its not too big for room.. and is half as loud as the old one.. which I loved.
Total WIN. got a 4.5 summer season newer one
with more capacity if I need it.. ie I forget to turn it on and its 90F up there when I get home.
for about $70
If I was a jerk I could probably fix the cord with some butt splice connectors and electrical tape.
but its going out to the curb for the methies to trash pick.
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nothing you can just buy premade that I have seen.
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