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Not an engineer but am pre med with some formal applied physics training.
Resistance is dependent on main 3 factors…resistivity of the conduit material, length of the conduit, and cross sectional area of the conduit.
Power dissipation is current squared multiplied by resistance.
Conduits can be considered only a small portion of resistance where the appliance determines the resistance and thus current given essentially static voltage.
V= I x R
Power = I x V
Power = I^2 x R (refactored)
Here's where it gets interesting. Say you have a toaster set to low, then turn it to high…say that halves the resistance inside the toaster leaving the cord resistance static, which essentially halves the circuit resistance and doubles the current through the circuit. This would essentially double the power at the same voltage flowing through the circuit and dissipated within the appliance BUT the resistance of the conduit between the voltage source and appliance remained static while current through essentially doubled, so while the appliance had a 2x power increase the conduit saw a 4x increase in power dissipation, where the power dissipation in the conduit (extension cord) is dependent mostly on its resistance as the current is essentially determined by the appliance.
Conduit resistance = (resistivity x length) / cross sectional area
Thus, all else equal, conduits that are longer, of smaller diameter, and which use material of lower conductivity (higher resistivity) will have have higher resistance and dissipate more total power (heat up more) given the same current.
However at the same gauge (diameter) and resistivity (conductor material) a shorter cable like a dollar store cable has lower resistance and will dissipate less total energy BUT the same energy per unit length…so temperature increase of the extension cord is resistance dependent…thus if a cord feels cooler then it is very likely lower resistance per unit length.
Aluminum is a good conductor, and often used for its lower cost and light weight in industrial applications at high voltages as it has less resistance per unit weight than copper. However in small conduits, it's inferior. Weight and usually cost isn't a huge issue, it exhibits higher stress fatigue than copper meaning it's less durable being bent often, and will result in greater losses and more heating at the same diameter and length. This is why solid copper cables are superior to aluminum or copper clad aluminum for home extension cords. In fact at longer lengths and running appliances at high current, a large diameter solid copper extension cord can notably decrease power consumption versus a narrower gauge aluminum cord, and lower cost of operation while increasing safety with higher durability as well…such as when used to power a space heater.
* many cheap cords will use narrow conductors but thick insulation to make it feel more substantial.
* * many electrical cords that DON'T say solid copper very likely aren't…and if the plug isn't copper colored it almost certainly isn't a copper cord, but if the plug is copper colored it may still be only copper plated.
I appreciate it. I've dedicated my life to helping others and one of the ways I was always taught to do that is to learn from others whenever possible, and teach others whenever possible : )
We are all in this together!
18 Comments
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Are there any EE majors here that can shed some light on this:
It says 33% bigger core, I presume this implies larger diameter, which implies bigger current threshold... Yet, it is is rated at 'up to 13A'. My tiny extension cord from Dollar Tree is rated at 15A and it handles almost 1800W without getting noticeably hot. What am I missing here?
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank redaurora
EE here. This is 16 gauge wire, pure copper. This is lesser rated than what your breaker size is (15A or 20A typically), so if you have as long as you don't exceed the rated 13A, you should be fine. But if you add more loads, you risk heating up the wire.
FWIW I tried to order the 15' and the 25' last time these were on sale and the order never made it to my door. Honestly not sure where it went but it took a decent amount of time to get the money back.
That said at this price with the size of my christmas display I am in for a few
Are there any EE majors here that can shed some light on this:It says 33% bigger core, I presume this implies larger diameter, which implies bigger current threshold... Yet, it is is rated at 'up to 13A'. My tiny extension cord from Dollar Tree is rated at 15A and it handles almost 1800W without getting noticeably hot. What am I missing here?
I wouldn't trust what any dollar store electronics product claims
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank luckydog97
Quote
from amoled
:
Are there any EE majors here that can shed some light on this:
It says 33% bigger core, I presume this implies larger diameter, which implies bigger current threshold... Yet, it is is rated at 'up to 13A'. My tiny extension cord from Dollar Tree is rated at 15A and it handles almost 1800W without getting noticeably hot. What am I missing here?
Not an engineer but am pre med with some formal applied physics training.
Resistance is dependent on main 3 factors…resistivity of the conduit material, length of the conduit, and cross sectional area of the conduit.
Power dissipation is current squared multiplied by resistance.
Conduits can be considered only a small portion of resistance where the appliance determines the resistance and thus current given essentially static voltage.
V= I x R
Power = I x V
Power = I^2 x R (refactored)
Here's where it gets interesting. Say you have a toaster set to low, then turn it to high…say that halves the resistance inside the toaster leaving the cord resistance static, which essentially halves the circuit resistance and doubles the current through the circuit. This would essentially double the power at the same voltage flowing through the circuit and dissipated within the appliance BUT the resistance of the conduit between the voltage source and appliance remained static while current through essentially doubled, so while the appliance had a 2x power increase the conduit saw a 4x increase in power dissipation, where the power dissipation in the conduit (extension cord) is dependent mostly on its resistance as the current is essentially determined by the appliance.
Conduit resistance = (resistivity x length) / cross sectional area
Thus, all else equal, conduits that are longer, of smaller diameter, and which use material of lower conductivity (higher resistivity) will have have higher resistance and dissipate more total power (heat up more) given the same current.
However at the same gauge (diameter) and resistivity (conductor material) a shorter cable like a dollar store cable has lower resistance and will dissipate less total energy BUT the same energy per unit length…so temperature increase of the extension cord is resistance dependent…thus if a cord feels cooler then it is very likely lower resistance per unit length.
Aluminum is a good conductor, and often used for its lower cost and light weight in industrial applications at high voltages as it has less resistance per unit weight than copper. However in small conduits, it's inferior. Weight and usually cost isn't a huge issue, it exhibits higher stress fatigue than copper meaning it's less durable being bent often, and will result in greater losses and more heating at the same diameter and length. This is why solid copper cables are superior to aluminum or copper clad aluminum for home extension cords. In fact at longer lengths and running appliances at high current, a large diameter solid copper extension cord can notably decrease power consumption versus a narrower gauge aluminum cord, and lower cost of operation while increasing safety with higher durability as well…such as when used to power a space heater.
* many cheap cords will use narrow conductors but thick insulation to make it feel more substantial.
* * many electrical cords that DON'T say solid copper very likely aren't…and if the plug isn't copper colored it almost certainly isn't a copper cord, but if the plug is copper colored it may still be only copper plated.
Ok I'm done ranting
Last edited by luckydog97 August 30, 2025 at 09:56 AM.
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One of my nieces just bought a brand new house in Tucson. My brother went to install ceiling fans there, and found all the wiring is copper clad aluminum.
It says 33% bigger core, I presume this implies larger diameter, which implies bigger current threshold... Yet, it is is rated at 'up to 13A'. My tiny extension cord from Dollar Tree is rated at 15A and it handles almost 1800W without getting noticeably hot. What am I missing here?
Not an engineer but am pre med with some formal applied physics training.
Resistance is dependent on main 3 factors…resistivity of the conduit material, length of the conduit, and cross sectional area of the conduit.
Power dissipation is current squared multiplied by resistance.
Conduits can be considered only a small portion of resistance where the appliance determines the resistance and thus current given essentially static voltage.
V= I x R
Power = I x V
Power = I^2 x R (refactored)
Here's where it gets interesting. Say you have a toaster set to low, then turn it to high…say that halves the resistance inside the toaster leaving the cord resistance static, which essentially halves the circuit resistance and doubles the current through the circuit. This would essentially double the power at the same voltage flowing through the circuit and dissipated within the appliance BUT the resistance of the conduit between the voltage source and appliance remained static while current through essentially doubled, so while the appliance had a 2x power increase the conduit saw a 4x increase in power dissipation, where the power dissipation in the conduit (extension cord) is dependent mostly on its resistance as the current is essentially determined by the appliance.
Conduit resistance = (resistivity x length) / cross sectional area
Thus, all else equal, conduits that are longer, of smaller diameter, and which use material of lower conductivity (higher resistivity) will have have higher resistance and dissipate more total power (heat up more) given the same current.
However at the same gauge (diameter) and resistivity (conductor material) a shorter cable like a dollar store cable has lower resistance and will dissipate less total energy BUT the same energy per unit length…so temperature increase of the extension cord is resistance dependent…thus if a cord feels cooler then it is very likely lower resistance per unit length.
Aluminum is a good conductor, and often used for its lower cost and light weight in industrial applications at high voltages as it has less resistance per unit weight than copper. However in small conduits, it's inferior. Weight and usually cost isn't a huge issue, it exhibits higher stress fatigue than copper meaning it's less durable being bent often, and will result in greater losses and more heating at the same diameter and length. This is why solid copper cables are superior to aluminum or copper clad aluminum for home extension cords. In fact at longer lengths and running appliances at high current, a large diameter solid copper extension cord can notably decrease power consumption versus a narrower gauge aluminum cord, and lower cost of operation while increasing safety with higher durability as well…such as when used to power a space heater.
* many cheap cords will use narrow conductors but thick insulation to make it feel more substantial.
* * many electrical cords that DON'T say solid copper very likely aren't…and if the plug isn't copper colored it almost certainly isn't a copper cord, but if the plug is copper colored it may still be only copper plated.
Ok I'm done ranting [IMG]https://static.slickdealscdn.com/images/smilies/emot-LMAO.gif[/IMG]
Alrighty - Now give us the detailed explanation - my head didn't quite explode with this one 🤪
(Actually, I 'liked' your explanation - impressively done.)
Not an engineer but am pre med with some formal applied physics training.
Resistance is dependent on main 3 factors…resistivity of the conduit material, length of the conduit, and cross sectional area of the conduit.
Power dissipation is current squared multiplied by resistance.
Conduits can be considered only a small portion of resistance where the appliance determines the resistance and thus current given essentially static voltage.
V= I x R
Power = I x V
Power = I^2 x R (refactored)
Here's where it gets interesting. Say you have a toaster set to low, then turn it to high…say that halves the resistance inside the toaster leaving the cord resistance static, which essentially halves the circuit resistance and doubles the current through the circuit. This would essentially double the power at the same voltage flowing through the circuit and dissipated within the appliance BUT the resistance of the conduit between the voltage source and appliance remained static while current through essentially doubled, so while the appliance had a 2x power increase the conduit saw a 4x increase in power dissipation, where the power dissipation in the conduit (extension cord) is dependent mostly on its resistance as the current is essentially determined by the appliance.
Conduit resistance = (resistivity x length) / cross sectional area
Thus, all else equal, conduits that are longer, of smaller diameter, and which use material of lower conductivity (higher resistivity) will have have higher resistance and dissipate more total power (heat up more) given the same current.
However at the same gauge (diameter) and resistivity (conductor material) a shorter cable like a dollar store cable has lower resistance and will dissipate less total energy BUT the same energy per unit length…so temperature increase of the extension cord is resistance dependent…thus if a cord feels cooler then it is very likely lower resistance per unit length.
Aluminum is a good conductor, and often used for its lower cost and light weight in industrial applications at high voltages as it has less resistance per unit weight than copper. However in small conduits, it's inferior. Weight and usually cost isn't a huge issue, it exhibits higher stress fatigue than copper meaning it's less durable being bent often, and will result in greater losses and more heating at the same diameter and length. This is why solid copper cables are superior to aluminum or copper clad aluminum for home extension cords. In fact at longer lengths and running appliances at high current, a large diameter solid copper extension cord can notably decrease power consumption versus a narrower gauge aluminum cord, and lower cost of operation while increasing safety with higher durability as well…such as when used to power a space heater.
* many cheap cords will use narrow conductors but thick insulation to make it feel more substantial.
* * many electrical cords that DON'T say solid copper very likely aren't…and if the plug isn't copper colored it almost certainly isn't a copper cord, but if the plug is copper colored it may still be only copper plated.
Alrighty - Now give us the detailed explanation - my head didn't quite explode with this one 🤪
(Actually, I 'liked' your explanation - impressively done.)
I appreciate it. I've dedicated my life to helping others and one of the ways I was always taught to do that is to learn from others whenever possible, and teach others whenever possible : )
I appreciate it. I've dedicated my life to helping others and one of the ways I was always taught to do that is to learn from others whenever possible, and teach others whenever possible : )
We are all in this together!
That's what i'm talkin about! Teamwork makes the dream work, not everyone can know everything! lolol
Leave a Comment
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Resistance is dependent on main 3 factors…resistivity of the conduit material, length of the conduit, and cross sectional area of the conduit.
Power dissipation is current squared multiplied by resistance.
Conduits can be considered only a small portion of resistance where the appliance determines the resistance and thus current given essentially static voltage.
V= I x R
Power = I x V
Power = I^2 x R (refactored)
Here's where it gets interesting. Say you have a toaster set to low, then turn it to high…say that halves the resistance inside the toaster leaving the cord resistance static, which essentially halves the circuit resistance and doubles the current through the circuit. This would essentially double the power at the same voltage flowing through the circuit and dissipated within the appliance BUT the resistance of the conduit between the voltage source and appliance remained static while current through essentially doubled, so while the appliance had a 2x power increase the conduit saw a 4x increase in power dissipation, where the power dissipation in the conduit (extension cord) is dependent mostly on its resistance as the current is essentially determined by the appliance.
Conduit resistance = (resistivity x length) / cross sectional area
Thus, all else equal, conduits that are longer, of smaller diameter, and which use material of lower conductivity (higher resistivity) will have have higher resistance and dissipate more total power (heat up more) given the same current.
However at the same gauge (diameter) and resistivity (conductor material) a shorter cable like a dollar store cable has lower resistance and will dissipate less total energy BUT the same energy per unit length…so temperature increase of the extension cord is resistance dependent…thus if a cord feels cooler then it is very likely lower resistance per unit length.
Aluminum is a good conductor, and often used for its lower cost and light weight in industrial applications at high voltages as it has less resistance per unit weight than copper. However in small conduits, it's inferior. Weight and usually cost isn't a huge issue, it exhibits higher stress fatigue than copper meaning it's less durable being bent often, and will result in greater losses and more heating at the same diameter and length. This is why solid copper cables are superior to aluminum or copper clad aluminum for home extension cords. In fact at longer lengths and running appliances at high current, a large diameter solid copper extension cord can notably decrease power consumption versus a narrower gauge aluminum cord, and lower cost of operation while increasing safety with higher durability as well…such as when used to power a space heater.
* many cheap cords will use narrow conductors but thick insulation to make it feel more substantial.
* * many electrical cords that DON'T say solid copper very likely aren't…and if the plug isn't copper colored it almost certainly isn't a copper cord, but if the plug is copper colored it may still be only copper plated.
Ok I'm done ranting
We are all in this together!
18 Comments
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It says 33% bigger core, I presume this implies larger diameter, which implies bigger current threshold... Yet, it is is rated at 'up to 13A'. My tiny extension cord from Dollar Tree is rated at 15A and it handles almost 1800W without getting noticeably hot. What am I missing here?
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank redaurora
That said at this price with the size of my christmas display I am in for a few
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank luckydog97
It says 33% bigger core, I presume this implies larger diameter, which implies bigger current threshold... Yet, it is is rated at 'up to 13A'. My tiny extension cord from Dollar Tree is rated at 15A and it handles almost 1800W without getting noticeably hot. What am I missing here?
Resistance is dependent on main 3 factors…resistivity of the conduit material, length of the conduit, and cross sectional area of the conduit.
Power dissipation is current squared multiplied by resistance.
Conduits can be considered only a small portion of resistance where the appliance determines the resistance and thus current given essentially static voltage.
V= I x R
Power = I x V
Power = I^2 x R (refactored)
Here's where it gets interesting. Say you have a toaster set to low, then turn it to high…say that halves the resistance inside the toaster leaving the cord resistance static, which essentially halves the circuit resistance and doubles the current through the circuit. This would essentially double the power at the same voltage flowing through the circuit and dissipated within the appliance BUT the resistance of the conduit between the voltage source and appliance remained static while current through essentially doubled, so while the appliance had a 2x power increase the conduit saw a 4x increase in power dissipation, where the power dissipation in the conduit (extension cord) is dependent mostly on its resistance as the current is essentially determined by the appliance.
Conduit resistance = (resistivity x length) / cross sectional area
Thus, all else equal, conduits that are longer, of smaller diameter, and which use material of lower conductivity (higher resistivity) will have have higher resistance and dissipate more total power (heat up more) given the same current.
However at the same gauge (diameter) and resistivity (conductor material) a shorter cable like a dollar store cable has lower resistance and will dissipate less total energy BUT the same energy per unit length…so temperature increase of the extension cord is resistance dependent…thus if a cord feels cooler then it is very likely lower resistance per unit length.
Aluminum is a good conductor, and often used for its lower cost and light weight in industrial applications at high voltages as it has less resistance per unit weight than copper. However in small conduits, it's inferior. Weight and usually cost isn't a huge issue, it exhibits higher stress fatigue than copper meaning it's less durable being bent often, and will result in greater losses and more heating at the same diameter and length. This is why solid copper cables are superior to aluminum or copper clad aluminum for home extension cords. In fact at longer lengths and running appliances at high current, a large diameter solid copper extension cord can notably decrease power consumption versus a narrower gauge aluminum cord, and lower cost of operation while increasing safety with higher durability as well…such as when used to power a space heater.
* many cheap cords will use narrow conductors but thick insulation to make it feel more substantial.
* * many electrical cords that DON'T say solid copper very likely aren't…and if the plug isn't copper colored it almost certainly isn't a copper cord, but if the plug is copper colored it may still be only copper plated.
Ok I'm done ranting
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Are there any EE majors here that can shed some light on this:
It says 33% bigger core, I presume this implies larger diameter, which implies bigger current threshold... Yet, it is is rated at 'up to 13A'. My tiny extension cord from Dollar Tree is rated at 15A and it handles almost 1800W without getting noticeably hot. What am I missing here?
Not an engineer but am pre med with some formal applied physics training.
Resistance is dependent on main 3 factors…resistivity of the conduit material, length of the conduit, and cross sectional area of the conduit.
Power dissipation is current squared multiplied by resistance.
Conduits can be considered only a small portion of resistance where the appliance determines the resistance and thus current given essentially static voltage.
V= I x R
Power = I x V
Power = I^2 x R (refactored)
Here's where it gets interesting. Say you have a toaster set to low, then turn it to high…say that halves the resistance inside the toaster leaving the cord resistance static, which essentially halves the circuit resistance and doubles the current through the circuit. This would essentially double the power at the same voltage flowing through the circuit and dissipated within the appliance BUT the resistance of the conduit between the voltage source and appliance remained static while current through essentially doubled, so while the appliance had a 2x power increase the conduit saw a 4x increase in power dissipation, where the power dissipation in the conduit (extension cord) is dependent mostly on its resistance as the current is essentially determined by the appliance.
Conduit resistance = (resistivity x length) / cross sectional area
Thus, all else equal, conduits that are longer, of smaller diameter, and which use material of lower conductivity (higher resistivity) will have have higher resistance and dissipate more total power (heat up more) given the same current.
However at the same gauge (diameter) and resistivity (conductor material) a shorter cable like a dollar store cable has lower resistance and will dissipate less total energy BUT the same energy per unit length…so temperature increase of the extension cord is resistance dependent…thus if a cord feels cooler then it is very likely lower resistance per unit length.
Aluminum is a good conductor, and often used for its lower cost and light weight in industrial applications at high voltages as it has less resistance per unit weight than copper. However in small conduits, it's inferior. Weight and usually cost isn't a huge issue, it exhibits higher stress fatigue than copper meaning it's less durable being bent often, and will result in greater losses and more heating at the same diameter and length. This is why solid copper cables are superior to aluminum or copper clad aluminum for home extension cords. In fact at longer lengths and running appliances at high current, a large diameter solid copper extension cord can notably decrease power consumption versus a narrower gauge aluminum cord, and lower cost of operation while increasing safety with higher durability as well…such as when used to power a space heater.
* many cheap cords will use narrow conductors but thick insulation to make it feel more substantial.
* * many electrical cords that DON'T say solid copper very likely aren't…and if the plug isn't copper colored it almost certainly isn't a copper cord, but if the plug is copper colored it may still be only copper plated.
Ok I'm done ranting [IMG]https://static.slickdealscdn.com/images/smilies/emot-LMAO.gif[/IMG]
(Actually, I 'liked' your explanation - impressively done.)
Resistance is dependent on main 3 factors…resistivity of the conduit material, length of the conduit, and cross sectional area of the conduit.
Power dissipation is current squared multiplied by resistance.
Conduits can be considered only a small portion of resistance where the appliance determines the resistance and thus current given essentially static voltage.
V= I x R
Power = I x V
Power = I^2 x R (refactored)
Here's where it gets interesting. Say you have a toaster set to low, then turn it to high…say that halves the resistance inside the toaster leaving the cord resistance static, which essentially halves the circuit resistance and doubles the current through the circuit. This would essentially double the power at the same voltage flowing through the circuit and dissipated within the appliance BUT the resistance of the conduit between the voltage source and appliance remained static while current through essentially doubled, so while the appliance had a 2x power increase the conduit saw a 4x increase in power dissipation, where the power dissipation in the conduit (extension cord) is dependent mostly on its resistance as the current is essentially determined by the appliance.
Conduit resistance = (resistivity x length) / cross sectional area
Thus, all else equal, conduits that are longer, of smaller diameter, and which use material of lower conductivity (higher resistivity) will have have higher resistance and dissipate more total power (heat up more) given the same current.
However at the same gauge (diameter) and resistivity (conductor material) a shorter cable like a dollar store cable has lower resistance and will dissipate less total energy BUT the same energy per unit length…so temperature increase of the extension cord is resistance dependent…thus if a cord feels cooler then it is very likely lower resistance per unit length.
Aluminum is a good conductor, and often used for its lower cost and light weight in industrial applications at high voltages as it has less resistance per unit weight than copper. However in small conduits, it's inferior. Weight and usually cost isn't a huge issue, it exhibits higher stress fatigue than copper meaning it's less durable being bent often, and will result in greater losses and more heating at the same diameter and length. This is why solid copper cables are superior to aluminum or copper clad aluminum for home extension cords. In fact at longer lengths and running appliances at high current, a large diameter solid copper extension cord can notably decrease power consumption versus a narrower gauge aluminum cord, and lower cost of operation while increasing safety with higher durability as well…such as when used to power a space heater.
* many cheap cords will use narrow conductors but thick insulation to make it feel more substantial.
* * many electrical cords that DON'T say solid copper very likely aren't…and if the plug isn't copper colored it almost certainly isn't a copper cord, but if the plug is copper colored it may still be only copper plated.
Ok I'm done ranting
(Actually, I 'liked' your explanation - impressively done.)
We are all in this together!
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
We are all in this together!
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