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Used Condition: Creality K1 Max Large Build 3D Printer w/ 4-Pack PLA Filament
$288
$410
29% off
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creality_refurbished via eBay has Used Condition: Creality K1 Max Large Build 3D Printer w/ 4-Pack PLA Filament on sale for $339 - Extra 15% Off ($50.85) w/ coupon BESTGIFTS (apply during checkout) = $288.15. Shipping is free.
Thanks to community member jheath430 for finding this deal
Note, product is a certified used unit. This item may be a floor model or store return that has been used.
About the Product
Thanks to community member jheath430 for finding this deal
Note, product is a certified used unit. This item may be a floor model or store return that has been used.
About the Product
- 600mm/s Printing Speed
- 300x300x300 Large Build Volume
- Dual Model Cooling Fans
- Dual Hands-Free Auto Leveling
- Versatile AI LiDAR
- Observant AI Camera
- Used Condition: Creality K1 Max Large Build 3D Printer
- 4-Pack Creality PLA Filaments
Editor's Notes
Written by Discombobulated | Staff- Price Research
- At the time of research, this used condition unit offers a coupon savings of $50.85 lower (15% savings) compared to a new unit sold by $629.
- About the Deal
- Must apply the listed coupon code during checkout for discount to apply (while logged into your account)
- Product will be sold directly by the Creality brand/manufacturer
- Offer valid through November 2, 2025 or while supplies last
- Please see original post/WIKI for additional details (if applicable) or check the forum comments for helpful insights/discussion
- Additional Details
- Bulk savings is offered when purchasing 2+ units
- Product is eligible for 30 day return w/ purchase; seller pays for return shipping
Community Notes
About the Poster
Deal Details
Community Notes
About the Poster
creality_refurbished via eBay has Used Condition: Creality K1 Max Large Build 3D Printer w/ 4-Pack PLA Filament on sale for $339 - Extra 15% Off ($50.85) w/ coupon BESTGIFTS (apply during checkout) = $288.15. Shipping is free.
Thanks to community member jheath430 for finding this deal
Note, product is a certified used unit. This item may be a floor model or store return that has been used.
About the Product
Thanks to community member jheath430 for finding this deal
Note, product is a certified used unit. This item may be a floor model or store return that has been used.
About the Product
- 600mm/s Printing Speed
- 300x300x300 Large Build Volume
- Dual Model Cooling Fans
- Dual Hands-Free Auto Leveling
- Versatile AI LiDAR
- Observant AI Camera
- Used Condition: Creality K1 Max Large Build 3D Printer
- 4-Pack Creality PLA Filaments
Editor's Notes
Written by Discombobulated | Staff- Price Research
- At the time of research, this used condition unit offers a coupon savings of $50.85 lower (15% savings) compared to a new unit sold by $629.
- About the Deal
- Must apply the listed coupon code during checkout for discount to apply (while logged into your account)
- Product will be sold directly by the Creality brand/manufacturer
- Offer valid through November 2, 2025 or while supplies last
- Please see original post/WIKI for additional details (if applicable) or check the forum comments for helpful insights/discussion
- Additional Details
- Bulk savings is offered when purchasing 2+ units
- Product is eligible for 30 day return w/ purchase; seller pays for return shipping
Community Voting
Deal
Score
+21
Good Deal
Bad Deal
Top Comments
With V3 , the issue is the opposite. There are no adjustment screws, just spacers, and they use a probe to generate a mesh "level". But honestly: mesh leveling is not a true replacement for starting from an perfectly level bed. You can get super clean prints on an Ender V3 if you very carefully shim the bed until the corners are all equally level (and the auto level makes that much easier to check and continue adjusting).
I'll just say I haven't had an ender I couldn't get level, and even for V2 series most stayed level through hundreds of prints short of accidentally hitting a leveling screw. A lot of people will complain if a printer isn't plug and immediately play perfectly: which, if it's just a hobby thing you do every couple months for fun, FAIR. But if you're at all serious/"serious" (and it's OK to not be!), you're going to need to work on your printers eventually. Every type of printer (even the various ink ones!) is a machine that ends up needing tuning and repair due to wear and tear. Personally I think it's pretty silly to trash up to a thousand or dollars so worth of machine over a few minutes of leveling.
I'm not going to comment on the K1 series more specifically because I haven't bought any and worked on them. But I'd be surprised if any leveling issues on them weren't just as easily fixable as the Ender V3s (and the related videos I've seen are exactly the same as what I've done with my V3 SEs), at which point... well. If people want to spend hundreds or even thousand more over an issue that takes at most 30 minutes to fix and doesn't need any special tools/experience/etc? Hey everyone has their own priorities, I'm not judging, but I also think it's important for people to have enough info to make that decision based on THEIR priorities and what they feel that can handle.
Final note: Personally I'm staying away from Bambu due to their closed and proprietary aspects and especially some of the more recent moves they've made. Creality has had its own bumps and issues in that direction, just nowhere near as bad, even if they're certainly no saints. But to each her own and all that. $288 for a K1 Max is tempting for single color printing, but as a "used condition" I'd always advise being ready to work on it, AT LEAST enough to know what parts to ask for replacements on if it comes in and has issues.
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39 Comments
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Not sure why the thumbs down, this statement is very true in general. Not sure about the k1 but I've had several enders and even with the auto bed leveling kit I spent collectively hours trying to get it level to start properly and even when I did, it would go out of level a few prints later. Going to get a bambu when the p2s comes out.
If you don't mind tinkering I'm sure it's fine. If you want set it and forget it, the leveling issues would be of concern to me.
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With V3 [SE/KE/etc], the issue is the opposite. There are no adjustment screws, just spacers, and they use a probe to generate a mesh "level". But honestly: mesh leveling is not a true replacement for starting from an [almost] perfectly level bed. You can get super clean prints on an Ender V3 if you very carefully shim the bed until the corners are all equally level (and the auto level makes that much easier to check and continue adjusting).
I'll just say I haven't had an ender I couldn't get level, and even for V2 series most stayed level through hundreds of prints short of accidentally hitting a leveling screw. A lot of people will complain if a printer isn't plug and immediately play perfectly: which, if it's just a hobby thing you do every couple months for fun, FAIR. But if you're at all serious/"serious" (and it's OK to not be!), you're going to need to work on your printers eventually. Every type of printer (even the various ink ones!) is a machine that ends up needing tuning and repair due to wear and tear. Personally I think it's pretty silly to trash up to a thousand or dollars so worth of machine over a few minutes of leveling.
I'm not going to comment on the K1 series more specifically because I haven't bought any and worked on them. But I'd be surprised if any leveling issues on them weren't just as easily fixable as the Ender V3s (and the related videos I've seen are exactly the same as what I've done with my V3 SEs), at which point... well. If people want to spend hundreds or even thousand[s] more over an issue that takes at most 30 minutes to fix and doesn't need any special tools/experience/etc? Hey everyone has their own priorities, I'm not judging, but I also think it's important for people to have enough info to make that decision based on THEIR priorities and what they feel that can handle.
Final note: Personally I'm staying away from Bambu due to their closed and proprietary aspects and especially some of the more recent moves they've made. Creality has had its own bumps and issues in that direction, just nowhere near as bad, even if they're certainly no saints. But to each her own and all that. $288 for a K1 Max is tempting for single color printing, but as a "used condition" I'd always advise being ready to work on it, AT LEAST enough to know what parts to ask for replacements on if it comes in and has issues.
With V3 [SE/KE/etc], the issue is the opposite. There are no adjustment screws, just spacers, and they use a probe to generate a mesh "level". But honestly: mesh leveling is not a true replacement for starting from an [almost] perfectly level bed. You can get super clean prints on an Ender V3 if you very carefully shim the bed until the corners are all equally level (and the auto level makes that much easier to check and continue adjusting).
I'll just say I haven't had an ender I couldn't get level, and even for V2 series most stayed level through hundreds of prints short of accidentally hitting a leveling screw. A lot of people will complain if a printer isn't plug and immediately play perfectly: which, if it's just a hobby thing you do every couple months for fun, FAIR. But if you're at all serious/"serious" (and it's OK to not be!), you're going to need to work on your printers eventually. Every type of printer (even the various ink ones!) is a machine that ends up needing tuning and repair due to wear and tear. Personally I think it's pretty silly to trash up to a thousand or dollars so worth of machine over a few minutes of leveling.
I'm not going to comment on the K1 series more specifically because I haven't bought any and worked on them. But I'd be surprised if any leveling issues on them weren't just as easily fixable as the Ender V3s (and the related videos I've seen are exactly the same as what I've done with my V3 SEs), at which point... well. If people want to spend hundreds or even thousand[s] more over an issue that takes at most 30 minutes to fix and doesn't need any special tools/experience/etc? Hey everyone has their own priorities, I'm not judging, but I also think it's important for people to have enough info to make that decision based on THEIR priorities and what they feel that can handle.
Final note: Personally I'm staying away from Bambu due to their closed and proprietary aspects and especially some of the more recent moves they've made. Creality has had its own bumps and issues in that direction, just nowhere near as bad, even if they're certainly no saints. But to each her own and all that. $288 for a K1 Max is tempting for single color printing, but as a "used condition" I'd always advise being ready to work on it, AT LEAST enough to know what parts to ask for replacements on if it comes in and has issues.
I should also add I don't regret my experience with the creality line. Learning the ins and outs of the mechanics and how it operates, playing with klipper, etc. were all priceless experiences. It's also not lost on me that creality has opened the world of 3D printing to many by creating affordable printers. I know I wouldn't have been able to jump in ages ago if their options weren't available.
Bottom line, didn't mean to knock creality. Was just highlighting it may not be plug and play, so wanted folks to understand the tradeoffs.
Buyer beware, you might get a K1 Max full of broken glass and with a inoperable hotend assembly.
Enders (pre V3) go out of alignment due to the screws/springs (even before we get to bed heat warping as a topic). There are replacements to help better lock them in. Equally, failing to have adequate tension in the springs always caused issues too. There's also the issue of slowly losing X axis level on single Z screw printers (and equally getting it aligned correctly on dual screw ones), but that doesn't apply to a CoreXY based printer like the K series.
With V3 [SE/KE/etc], the issue is the opposite. There are no adjustment screws, just spacers, and they use a probe to generate a mesh "level". But honestly: mesh leveling is not a true replacement for starting from an [almost] perfectly level bed. You can get super clean prints on an Ender V3 if you very carefully shim the bed until the corners are all equally level (and the auto level makes that much easier to check and continue adjusting).
I'll just say I haven't had an ender I couldn't get level, and even for V2 series most stayed level through hundreds of prints short of accidentally hitting a leveling screw. A lot of people will complain if a printer isn't plug and immediately play perfectly: which, if it's just a hobby thing you do every couple months for fun, FAIR. But if you're at all serious/"serious" (and it's OK to not be!), you're going to need to work on your printers eventually. Every type of printer (even the various ink ones!) is a machine that ends up needing tuning and repair due to wear and tear. Personally I think it's pretty silly to trash up to a thousand or dollars so worth of machine over a few minutes of leveling.
I'm not going to comment on the K1 series more specifically because I haven't bought any and worked on them. But I'd be surprised if any leveling issues on them weren't just as easily fixable as the Ender V3s (and the related videos I've seen are exactly the same as what I've done with my V3 SEs), at which point... well. If people want to spend hundreds or even thousand[s] more over an issue that takes at most 30 minutes to fix and doesn't need any special tools/experience/etc? Hey everyone has their own priorities, I'm not judging, but I also think it's important for people to have enough info to make that decision based on THEIR priorities and what they feel that can handle.
Final note: Personally I'm staying away from Bambu due to their closed and proprietary aspects and especially some of the more recent moves they've made. Creality has had its own bumps and issues in that direction, just nowhere near as bad, even if they're certainly no saints. But to each her own and all that. $288 for a K1 Max is tempting for single color printing, but as a "used condition" I'd always advise being ready to work on it, AT LEAST enough to know what parts to ask for replacements on if it comes in and has issues.
Regardless of what printer anyone buys, you make great points that everything is going to need work at some point, so I would argue that ease of repair (including availability of replacement parts) should be an important consideration in deciding what to purchase.
As tempting as the price tag is on this one to get a 300x300 bed, personally, I think I'm headed in the direction of a Voron, so everything is customized to my specifications.
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First one came with a bad clog, but after clearing it by removing the nozzle and heatbreak and manually heating them up to remove all the buildup in the heatbreak, it wanted to start its print in the front left half the time, slamming into the frame. The print also slides to the right as it goes, so it's missing steps for whatever reason. It also came missing one of the two screws for the lidar mounting. I see people talking about installing 3rd party firmware to get actual errors to figure out what's going on with it, but no. I didn't buy this as parts/repair. I've done enough tinkering with machines 5 years ago.
Second one, the lever for the extruder is always engaged, no matter which position it's in. Can't install filament. The clog cleaning tool can scrape through, but it's thinner than filament, and it doesn't change resistance in either lever position. The quick disconnect fitting also has a lot of black gunk around it, so I assume someone pulled out a lot of molten filament a few times, likely gunking up the extruder gear assembly.
Third one just had the tools thrown in the center without any protection, and the glass is busted. I haven't taken it out of the box - it's simply glass everywhere. The filament tube also came disconnected from the hotend, but I'm not touching this machine that had things banging around inside in transit.
I'm sure I could spend a long time trying to get one or two working machines by moving parts around, or disassembling things further, but I'm returning them all. That's not something a buyer should need to do on a machine that isn't sold as parts/repair.
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