frontpagephoinix | Staff posted Jan 28, 2026 10:18 PM
Item 1 of 2
Item 1 of 2
frontpagephoinix | Staff posted Jan 28, 2026 10:18 PM
DeWALT 1-1/16" IMPACT READY Deep Socket for 1/2" Drive (DW22952)
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$19
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank FuschiaJuice6414
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Found this with the help of ChatGPT. Is this what you were referring to?
https://www.amazon.com/Pkuukme-3P...B0FD369259
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https://www.homedepot.c
Found this with the help of ChatGPT. Is this what you were referring to?
https://www.amazon.com/Pkuukme-3P...B0FD369259
The 1800 in-lbs on that Ryobi is 150 ft-lbs, and probably optimistic. May or may not be enough for loosen your ~80 ft-lb lug nuts. For your water heater (or anything 1 1/16"), grab a cheap 1/2" breaker bar to break it loose, then switch to the impact driver.
Also, if the drill has a hammer icon, that's impacting linearly (in and out), which is not for fasteners, but for drilling into masonry/concrete/brick.
I would go straight in with the impact wrench and not bother with the breaker bar first. At least in my experience, if that rod is in there tight enough, a bar with a human pushing it has a good chance of turning the whole water heater (even if full and being held by another person!) rather than breaking the rod loose.
Of course YMMV based on circumstances but the IW is more of a sure bet to do the whole job rather than "maybe" getting it loose with the bar.
EDIT: I just realized you were replying to someone who maybe just has an impact driver and not an IW. I think in that case I'd probably still try the ID first, but your luck is much more likely to vary wildly.
If you do have an IW then it's a no brainer IMHO.
I would go straight in with the impact wrench and not bother with the breaker bar first. At least in my experience, if that rod is in there tight enough, a bar with a human pushing it has a good chance of turning the whole water heater (even if full and being held by another person!) rather than breaking the rod loose.
Of course YMMV based on circumstances but the IW is more of a sure bet to do the whole job rather than "maybe" getting it loose with the bar.
EDIT: I just realized you were replying to someone who maybe just has an impact driver and not an IW. I think in that case I'd probably still try the ID first, but your luck is much more likely to vary wildly.
If you do have an IW then it's a no brainer IMHO.
I'd like to think 400 pounds of water + someone gripping the outer diameter would provide decent counter-torque, but a 1 1/16" bolt with a couple decades of corrosion could be pretty nasty.
https://www.homedepot.c
Found this with the help of ChatGPT. Is this what you were referring to?
https://www.amazon.com/Pkuukme-3P...B0FD369259
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YQ3...asin_
You might have luck with your impact driver, but if not just rent an impact wrench or get a cheap corded one if there's a deal on one somewhere.
This socket is the specific size for water heater tanks. If you find another bolt the same size elsewhere...that's more niche. With that in mind, it's a large bolt and needs a lot of torque. They're put in tight, under pressure for usually a decade before removal, in a water environment, where most sealants can't be used since they'd contaminate drinking water. You will need a lot of torque to break them away and this socket needs a 1/2" drive.
Breaker bar - in theory the ideal tool but in practice you will just twist the plumbing and make a lot more work.
Impact driver (1/4" hex shaft) - highly unlikely to have the oomph aka torque to break these free. Ask me how I know.
Impact wrench - yeah, now we're taking. Preferably a hefty 1/2" drive one - if you don't own one, the walmart hyper tough is like 100 bucks with battery and charger. It's also one of the higher powered impacts out there which I personally used to do this exact repair on a 20yo tank in a vacation house last fall because I didn't have my regular tools with me.
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