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The Monolith M12 v2 is a huge, heavy subwoofer that delivers serious bass and looks like a standout value for the output. Setup reports describe clean, punchy low end, strong performance in surround systems, and enough headroom to get loud once calibrated correctly. The main catch is power, since this EU and UK version is 220 to 240 volt and needs a transformer, dedicated 240 volt wiring, or a hardware conversion to run on US power. It is a bargain if you can handle the electrical side and the size.
DIYers comfortable with a 240V setup, because it can run from a dedicated 240V outlet or a properly sized step-up transformer.
Bass fans who want a compact-looking bargain, because the 12-inch cabinet is still described as a beast with output that feels far bigger than its size.
The deal may be time-sensitive because stock and pricing appear uncertain, including reports of the price changing and the item showing no stock afterward.
Yes, a step-up transformer can power it, and several setups report it working well. A 3000W/3000VA unit is the common recommendation for headroom; smaller converters may work, but undersizing can cause heat or clipping.
It is very large for a 12-inch sub and is described as heavier and bulkier than expected, with some comparing its enclosure size to a 12-15 inch class cabinet. Freight delivery and two-person handling were mentioned because the shipment can be around 136 lb on a skid.
No. The EU/UK version is rated for 220-240V, 50/60Hz, and the board is not set up to run on 120V as-is. US buyers need either a step-up transformer, a 240V outlet, or a hardware conversion to use it safely.
Yes, it is repeatedly described as a beast with very strong output, especially after proper setup and calibration. Owners say it adds a lot of sub bass to surround systems and can sound clean with punch and rumble.
Yes. The reported EU/UK-to-US conversion uses a jumper and fuse change, and one parts list says it can be done for about $10 with Digikey parts. After the conversion, it powers up on 120V normally.
I thought of buying that one too... but ended up with that Amazon tonchean one.
The sub came with 3 power cords, Which power cord are you using?
I used the type F plug, because thats what the converter I got takes. Yours might accept the other cables as well, there is no difference at all with them. That converter should work perfect for you, 3000w is way more than enough.
Mine works great with a step up transformer (3000w), had to configure my avr from scratch and turn the gain up on the sub to really get the response I wanted. The m12 is harder to drive than my last sub. But man is the base crazy good. The high density fiber board is great
These monolith subs need gain around 12 o clock and avr trim around-5db but its ymmv thing
Sound should be clean(like a sealed sub) with lots of punch and rumble.
Thanks, missed your original link, and didn't realize the output was simply a C13 style. I will be running a 240v dedicated line to a new receptacle and using the cord you linked to.
Note that some receptacles will not play nice with that plug. Some common 240V rceptacles have a rejection style ground plug that will not allow a round ground pin to enter the receptacle. Below is a link to a $4 Amazon plug you can use if you prefer to cut off the end of one of the supplied cables (not that there is no ground connection to the subwoofer, so don't be surprised if you don't see a ground conductor in the cutoff end of the cable):
Below is a link to a $4 Amazon plug you can use on a typical home depot 240V receptacle. Just cut off the end of one of the provided Monprice cables and attach this plug. This is definitely the low-cost solution to make the subwoofer work in the USA without the eyesore of a transformer (provided you have access to rewire one of the outlets in your intended room for 240V from your panelboard).
Note that there is no ground connection on this subwoofer, so don't be surprised if you don't see a ground conductor in the cutoff end of the Monoprice cable!
Last edited by TheMaster May 11, 2026 at 06:48 AM.
Has never even got close to this low for US version. That's why this was a steal.
Well it was $500 on Black Friday 2024, before the tariffs. But the shipping was $200 or so.
I have to say this sub is pretty nice. Its just ridiculously huge for a 12" sub. I am using the Tonchean 3000W 220V upconverter. Its silent and no problems so far.
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Well it was $500 on Black Friday 2024, before the tariffs. But the shipping was $200 or so.
I have to say this sub is pretty nice. Its just ridiculously huge for a 12" sub. I am using the Tonchean 3000W 220V upconverter. Its silent and no problems so far.
It is a crazy large and heavy sub, but man does it deliver, as long as it is steup correctly, it has really added a ton of sub bass to my surround setup. I had an old acoustech pl100 and it was a good budget sub for its day. But this thing is crazy good. Especially for the price.
For anyone interested, someone over at ASR determined the only difference between the EU/UK and the US version is the blue jumper cable and the fuse. Put a jumper and change the fuse and he confirmed that it powers up perfectly on 120v. https://www.audiosciencereview.co...st-2593016
For anyone interested, someone over at ASR determined the only difference between the EU/UK and the US version is the blue jumper cable and the fuse. Put a jumper and change the fuse and he confirmed that it powers up perfectly on 120v. https://www.audiosciencereview.co...st-2593016
Is there more info on this? Where can we buy the jumper and what fuse is needed?
I went to ASR but not a lot of info there either.
EDIT:
I think it needs a T6.3L250V 5X20mm fuse according to some pictures of the US version. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Don't know where to buy the TE350777 jumper tho.
Last edited by sweetnamja May 13, 2026 at 10:47 AM.
Is there more info on this? Where can we buy the jumper and what fuse is needed?
I went to ASR but not a lot of info there either.
EDIT:
I think it needs a T6.3L250V 5X20mm fuse according to some pictures of the US version. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Don't know where to buy the TE350777 jumper tho.
I see those connectors on ebay, but it looks like pins and wires are sold separately. What a pain.
I have really bad luck with plate amps and I dont want to mess with the warranty. I will just stick with the upconverter.
My setup is on the reddit thread if anyone is curious.
OMG LOL, this will go down as one of the best subwoofer deals in history.
someone over at ASR determined the only difference between the EU/UK and the US version is the blue jumper cable and the fuse. Put a jumper and change the fuse and he confirmed that it powers up perfectly on 120v.
Just did the conversion tonight, was super easy and only cost $10 for all the parts from Digikey. Works perfect now on 120v and I can return the power converter.
Just did the conversion tonight, was super easy and only cost $10 for all the parts from Digikey. Works perfect now on 120v and I can return the power converter.
nice, can you link the parts?
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Here is a link to a cart with everything you would need, I changed to USPS advantage cheapest shipping, it came in just a coupled days. https://www.digikey.com/short/99f1ntmr
1 x connector
2 x crimp connector contacts
2 x fuses (1 on the main board, 1 in the fuse slot of the power connector)
1 foot 14 or 16 AWG wire (you can also use any wiring you may have at home).
Should go without saying, but completely unplug the subwoofer before doing this.
Crimp the connector contacts onto a short loop of wire, if you don't have a crimp tool you can easily use needle nose pliers to create a decent crimp onto the wire. I also soldered the connections, but that isn't strictly necessary. Then just insert the 2 ends and seat them into the connector and put the completed jumper into the empty slot of the mainboard.
Replace mainboard fuse and the fuse where you connect the power cable.
Power up the sub and enjoy running off 120v.
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Community Reviews
The Monolith M12 v2 is a huge, heavy subwoofer that delivers serious bass and looks like a standout value for the output. Setup reports describe clean, punchy low end, strong performance in surround systems, and enough headroom to get loud once calibrated correctly. The main catch is power, since this EU and UK version is 220 to 240 volt and needs a transformer, dedicated 240 volt wiring, or a hardware conversion to run on US power. It is a bargain if you can handle the electrical side and the size.
Common Questions (5)
AI-generated summary based on comments from the community. Updated ago
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The sub came with 3 power cords, Which power cord are you using?
Sound should be clean(like a sealed sub) with lots of punch and rumble.
https://www.amazon.com/Plugrand-R...r=8-5&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Plugrand-R...r=8-5&th=1
Note that there is no ground connection on this subwoofer, so don't be surprised if you don't see a ground conductor in the cutoff end of the Monoprice cable!
I have to say this sub is pretty nice. Its just ridiculously huge for a 12" sub. I am using the Tonchean 3000W 220V upconverter. Its silent and no problems so far.
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I have to say this sub is pretty nice. Its just ridiculously huge for a 12" sub. I am using the Tonchean 3000W 220V upconverter. Its silent and no problems so far.
https://www.audioscienc
https://www.audioscienc
I went to ASR but not a lot of info there either.
EDIT:
I think it needs a T6.3L250V 5X20mm fuse according to some pictures of the US version. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Don't know where to buy the TE350777 jumper tho.
I went to ASR but not a lot of info there either.
EDIT:
I think it needs a T6.3L250V 5X20mm fuse according to some pictures of the US version. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Don't know where to buy the TE350777 jumper tho.
I have really bad luck with plate amps and I dont want to mess with the warranty. I will just stick with the upconverter.
My setup is on the reddit thread if anyone is curious.
someone over at ASR determined the only difference between the EU/UK and the US version is the blue jumper cable and the fuse. Put a jumper and change the fuse and he confirmed that it powers up perfectly on 120v.
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1 x connector
2 x crimp connector contacts
2 x fuses (1 on the main board, 1 in the fuse slot of the power connector)
1 foot 14 or 16 AWG wire (you can also use any wiring you may have at home).
Should go without saying, but completely unplug the subwoofer before doing this.
Crimp the connector contacts onto a short loop of wire, if you don't have a crimp tool you can easily use needle nose pliers to create a decent crimp onto the wire. I also soldered the connections, but that isn't strictly necessary. Then just insert the 2 ends and seat them into the connector and put the completed jumper into the empty slot of the mainboard.
Replace mainboard fuse and the fuse where you connect the power cable.
Power up the sub and enjoy running off 120v.
Join The Conversation
Share your experience with the Slickdeals community
Share information with the community. Please follow our Community Guidelines and be kind!