@Home Depot. Free shipping or store pickup where available.
YMMV but check your gas provider to see if there are any rebates available. NJNG seems to be offering a $500 rebate.
This collaborative space allows users to contribute additional information, tips, and insights to enhance the original deal post. Feel free to share your knowledge and help fellow shoppers make informed decisions.
@Home Depot. Free shipping or store pickup where available.
YMMV but check your gas provider to see if there are any rebates available. NJNG seems to be offering a $500 rebate.
Any insights about the product? I have 2x50 gallon tanked gas heaters. Can I replace both with this tankless one or I will need 2?
Really depends how much water you use at one time, but generally you exchange 1:1. Sounds like you've got a big house, and 1 tankless will likely be insufficient. I would get 2.
Any insights about the product? I have 2x50 gallon tanked gas heaters. Can I replace both with this tankless one or I will need 2?
That's more of a throughput question... this heater can heat 11gal/min. If you use less than that at any given time, theoretically this can go forever. A typical shower is 2.1gal/min between hot and cold. If you start running multiple showers, the dishwasher, multiple washers, etc... all at once, then you might need a second one. If it's intermittent or long running (e.g. consecutive showers for 40 minutes each) then this is probably enough.
Tank water heaters heat much more slowly, but the 50x2 gallons is already hot, so you get hot water until the tanks get too cold.
Last edited by antaholics September 2, 2026 at 11:19 AM.
Note that *actual* gpm (vs what's in marketing material -- 11gpm in this case) depends much on the temperature rise: how many degrees it must raise the incoming water to reach its setpoint. Basically the gap between the incoming water temp (eg are you in cold/hot climate? Is it summer/winter?) and what temp you have your heater set at. Since this greatly determines how "hard" your heater has to work and therefore what its real-world throughput might be.
For example, in Seattle right now I'm getting 65f out of tap and my tankless (Navien, 200k btu) is set at 120f, so that's a rise of 55 degrees. All else equal *actual* GPM would be different if either/both of these variables were different.
Other factors, too, of course. Main point is to understand the advertised GPM rating so that you're not surprised 😉
Last edited by manolobindo September 2, 2026 at 04:41 PM.
Note that *actual* gpm (vs what's in marketing material -- 11gpm in this case) depends much on the temperature rise: how many degrees it must raise the incoming water to reach its setpoint. Basically the gap between the incoming water temp (eg are you in cold/hot climate? Is it summer/winter?) and what temp you have your heater set at. Since this greatly determines how "hard" your heater has to work and therefore what its real-world throughput might be. For example, in Seattle right now I'm getting 65f out of tap and my tankless (Navien, 200k btu) is set at 120f, so that's a rise of 55 degrees. All else equal *actual* GPM would be different if either/both of these variables were different. Other factors, too, of course. Main point is to understand the advertised GPM rating so that you're not surprised 😉
I agree with this wholeheartedly. I had one in a different part of Michigan. If you look at the box it comes in where the instructions, it'll show decreasing groundwater temperatures the further you get north in the country. I've got some pretty icy feeling water coming out of my tap in the winter in northern Michigan. That's going to take a lot more energy and a larger temperature spread to get to 120 degrees out of the tap if that was a desired temperature setting. This unit will slow the water flow down if it comes in too cold to make sure that it comes out to the temperature you're requesting. I wouldn't get 11 gallons per minute where I live. It would be closer to 6 or 7 gallons per minute.
Just my 2 cents but get one with a recirculation pump or add one if possible. I have a navian with the pump and having instant hot water is amazing especially when cold out. Even though I live in Texas it's still an amazing feature.
2
Like
Helpful
Funny
Not helpful
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Just my 2 cents but get one with a recirculation pump or add one if possible. I have a navian with the pump and having instant hot water is amazing especially when cold out. Even though I live in Texas it's still an amazing feature.
Just my 2 cents but get one with a recirculation pump or add one if possible. I have a navian with the pump and having instant hot water is amazing especially when cold out. Even though I live in Texas it's still an amazing feature.
I like the idea of the recirculation pump but from what I could find on this unit (reading the Q&A on the Home Depot site), it could also be bypassed and not used, which is more inviting for me at this point. I would have to add additional plumbing to an existing home to put a recirculating line in. Perhaps, someday I'll own a house or build a house where I could enjoy this feature of instant hot water instead of delayed hot water.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank
Boiler guy here, Over 20 years experience.
IF you are planning to buy this, you will need to convert to a PVC or polypropylene vent pipe. DO NOT use your existing flue pipe or chimney. This is most likely a condensing water heater, this is why you are able to use pvc or polypropylene flue pipe and this will produce condensation inside you flue pipe and when mixed with exhaust gases, will produce sulfuric acid. You will also need a neutralizer for the condensation and some where to drain to.
You will need an outlet to plug this into. These are all MUST!
NOW addition to all that, this is like an option but a must in my book and must if an inspection checks this. A mixing valve (aka tempering valve). With this valve you can increase the capacity, sort of. I usually set the water heater to around 160, then the mixing valve to 120 (nyc code) with this you heater produces 160 BUT the mixing valve only uses SOME of it, because it MIXES it with the cold water thus dropping the water temp to 120degs. One might be able to set this as high as 180, maybe 200 BUT you need a mixing valve.
Hope this helps. I can keep going on how this works, but I have to go.
Any insights about the product? I have 2x50 gallon tanked gas heaters. Can I replace both with this tankless one or I will need 2?
Read my comment. This might help you decide if this can replace 2-50 tanks along with a mixing valve. BUT check and see if your meter can supply the BTUs
This uses 199k BTUs!
And uses a 3/4" gas line.
Most 1 fam homes only have 1/2" line.
Also, Most 1 fam homes can't supply 199k just for the water heater.
Make sure you gas meter will be able to produce that much BTUs. Add up all your appliance BTUs ratings and this heater and make sure this stay under the gas meter rating.
Like
Helpful
Funny
Not helpful
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Read my comment. This might help you decide if this can replace 2-50 tanks along with a mixing valve. BUT check and see if your meter can supply the BTUs
Hi sorry for digging back but is there a purpose to raise it that high? I've seen it kills the legionella but not much more than that, does raising it to 180 and using the mixing valve make it more efficient?
Like
Helpful
Funny
Not helpful
Join The Conversation
Share your experience with the Slickdeals community
Share information with the community. Please follow our Community Guidelines and be kind!
Join The Conversation
Share your experience with the Slickdeals community
Share information with the community. Please follow our Community Guidelines and be kind!
16 Comments
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Tank water heaters heat much more slowly, but the 50x2 gallons is already hot, so you get hot water until the tanks get too cold.
For example, in Seattle right now I'm getting 65f out of tap and my tankless (Navien, 200k btu) is set at 120f, so that's a rise of 55 degrees. All else equal *actual* GPM would be different if either/both of these variables were different.
Other factors, too, of course. Main point is to understand the advertised GPM rating so that you're not surprised 😉
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank
IF you are planning to buy this, you will need to convert to a PVC or polypropylene vent pipe. DO NOT use your existing flue pipe or chimney. This is most likely a condensing water heater, this is why you are able to use pvc or polypropylene flue pipe and this will produce condensation inside you flue pipe and when mixed with exhaust gases, will produce sulfuric acid. You will also need a neutralizer for the condensation and some where to drain to.
You will need an outlet to plug this into. These are all MUST!
NOW addition to all that, this is like an option but a must in my book and must if an inspection checks this. A mixing valve (aka tempering valve). With this valve you can increase the capacity, sort of. I usually set the water heater to around 160, then the mixing valve to 120 (nyc code) with this you heater produces 160 BUT the mixing valve only uses SOME of it, because it MIXES it with the cold water thus dropping the water temp to 120degs. One might be able to set this as high as 180, maybe 200 BUT you need a mixing valve.
Hope this helps. I can keep going on how this works, but I have to go.
And uses a 3/4" gas line.
Most 1 fam homes only have 1/2" line.
Also, Most 1 fam homes can't supply 199k just for the water heater.
Make sure you gas meter will be able to produce that much BTUs. Add up all your appliance BTUs ratings and this heater and make sure this stay under the gas meter rating.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Join The Conversation
Share your experience with the Slickdeals community
Share information with the community. Please follow our Community Guidelines and be kind!