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IMO its NOT worth the risk to use cheap knockoff gimmicks
Ill put this here to warn people about these shady devices that may DESROY your nice dewalt batteries
Reviews not the best. I will put my warning on this so people don't destroy their expensive Dewalt batteries on this device:
BEWARE: I do NOT see any mention of battery saving low-voltage-cutoff in the tool, so its possible this device will run your expensive dewalt batteries BELOW safe level, which completely ruins the batteries which cannot ever be charged again! This is not something I would buy unless the knockoff tool specifically states it has a LVC inside the tool itself (because Dewalt batteries do NOT have them onboard, its in the TOOLS)
Requoting to aware people on this problem:
"I would NEVER trust a non-dewalt tool. The battery cutoff is inside the dewalt TOOLS, so many non-dewalt tools (cheap ones without low voltage cutoff) will permanently ruin dewalt batteries (by draining the batteries down completely which makes them un-recoverable). I would NOT trust this crappy device to NOT destroy my nice batteries."
"Im not saying NEVER buy off-brand, but unless the off-brand tool literally brags about having "low voltage cutoff" in the tool itself, avoid at all costs, its not worth ruining your dewalt batteries (which cannot be recovered or ever used again).
You can buy the tool above, but you NEED to remove the battery after every single usage, and when using, check the battery level indicator every few minutes, and STOIP USING IT if the battery level goes from 2 down to 1 bar, but NOT use at 1 bar because you don't know where the bottom of that last bar ends.
Hopefully I save a few Dewalt owners from trashing their expensive batteries"
Also:
Dewalt keeps their LVC inside the tools, NOT the batteries. Many people discharge their batteries past the point of resuscitation. And the "tricks" don't always work to get a battery back working. Google for plenty of stories. Many Dewalt batteries have been junked because of stuff like above, and inability to "rescue" them using hacks and tricks.
Not worth possibly trashing your dewalt batteries, just to save a few bucks on a shoddy chinese tool, IMO, but you're free to do what you want.
I just want to warn people so they don't unknowingly destroy their expensive batteries to save twenty bucks... Most people don't know about the dewalt LVC being in the tools NOT the batteries like many other brands have...
More info from Big Clive, the bear himself: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1EakRb
Edit to add: this ad is confusing. It says "with battery", and then "battery not included"... ?
A deep discharged LiIon DeWalt battery pack can be boosted by a second batry pack so that the charger will recognize it as healthy.
A T10 driver and a 5 volt DC supply can also be used to push up individual weak cells beyond the charger cutoff threshold.
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A deep discharged LiIon DeWalt battery pack can be boosted by a second batry pack so that the charger will recognize it as healthy.
A T10 driver and a 5 volt DC supply can also be used to push up individual weak cells beyond the charger cutoff threshold.
I would NOT risk my batteries because some random dude on the internet claims its "fixable". This is foolish, this is terrible advice. "yeah just wreck your $100 battery on the 0.3% chance you can fix it!!!". No, thats insane, do you work for these crappy chinese product companies? The ones that destroy dewalt batteries? Because WAY more people have destroyed their batteries, than have "fixed" them.
I would NOT risk my batteries because some random dude on the internet claims its "fixable". This is foolish, this is terrible advice. "yeah just wreck your $100 battery on the 0.3% chance you can fix it!!!". No, thats insane, do you work for these crappy chinese product companies? The ones that destroy dewalt batteries? Because WAY more people have destroyed their batteries, than have "fixed" them.
Some battery chargers and analyzers (including Cadex), feature a wake-up feature or "boost" to reactivate and recharge batteries that have fallen asleep. Without this provision, a charger renders these batteries unserviceable and the packs would be discarded. Boost applies a small charge current to activate the protection circuit and if a correct cell voltage can be reached, the charger starts a normal charge.
Some over-discharged batteries can be "boosted" to life again. Discard the pack if the voltage does not rise to a normal level within a minute while on boost.
Do not boost lithium-based batteries back to life that have dwelled below 1.5V/cell for a week or longer. Copper shunts may have formed inside the cells that can lead to a partial or total electrical short. When recharging, such a cell might become unstable, causing excessive heat or show other anomalies. The Cadex "boost" function halts the charge if the voltage does not rise normally.
When boosting a battery, assure correct polarity. Advanced chargers and battery analyzers will not service a battery if placed in reverse polarity. A sleeping Li-ion does not reveal the voltage, and boosting must be done with awareness. Li-ion is more delicate than other systems and a voltage applied in reverse can cause permanent damage.
Storing lithium-ion batteries presents some uncertainty. On one end, manufacturers recommend keeping them at a state-of-charge of 40–50 percent, and on the other end there is the worry of losing them due to over-discharge(See BU-702: How to Store Batteries) There is ample bandwidth between these criteria and if in doubt, keep the battery at a higher charge in a cool place.
Cadex examined 294 mobile phones batteries that were returned under warranty. The Cadex analyzer restored 91 percent to a capacity of 80 percent and higher; 30 percent were inactive and needed a boost, and 9 percent were non-serviceable. All restored packs were returned to service and performed flawlessly. This study shows the large number of mobile phone batteries that fail due to over-discharging and can be salvaged.
Last Updated: 3-Nov-2021
https://www.batteryuniv
The battery is junked because the user is uninformed.
You do realize that this article is NOT talking about Dewalt batteries, right?
Nowhere in there, do they mention Dewalt.
Dewalt does NOT have the battery protections in the battery itself. (which is annoying). Dewalt has the battery protections in the TOOL itself, NOT the battery.
So again, I question your angle here, why you are arguing something (falsely). Are you simply uninformed? Are you purposely misleading people to buy these shitty knockoff products that DO NOT HAVE low volt protections? Or is this simply a redditor type "im gunna argue on the internet" type thing? Because you are 100% wrong, and I think its YOU that keeps trying to argue with me on this topic, but are 100% WRONG
Hell, ask AI about it (but you need to mention that it is DEWALT, as they are not like other brands):
1. The Link is Irrelevant
As you noted, that link points to a Battery University reference, and it does not mention DeWalt, nor does it address how DeWalt specifically engineers its cordless ecosystem. Citing general battery theory or typical lithium-ion pack behavior from an abstract article does nothing to prove what DeWalt's proprietary hardware actually does.
2. DeWalt's Design Architecture
You are correct about how DeWalt handles low-voltage cutoff (LVC) / low-voltage protection (LVP):
The Protection is in the Tool: For standard DeWalt 20V MAX slide-style batteries (like the DCB203, DCB205, etc.), the battery pack itself is basically just a cluster of lithium-ion cells, a simple thermistor for temperature monitoring, and basic series connections. There is no onboard microcontroller or LVP cutoff MOSFET circuit inside the standard battery housing to shut off power when voltage drops too low.
3. The Danger of Knockoff Adapters and Chinese Tools
Because the protection logic lives in the OEM tool and not the battery:
- When you slide a genuine DeWalt 20V battery onto a cheap third-party Chinese work light, adapter, fan, soldering iron, or knockoff tool that lacks DeWalt's communication handshake and internal cutoff circuitry, there is nothing stopping the device from draining the battery down to zero.
- Once a lithium-ion cell drops below its critical voltage threshold (usually around 2.5V to 2.8V per cell, or ~7.5V to 8.4V total for a 3S/6S pack), the internal chemistry degrades permanently, copper shunts can form causing internal shorts, and the DeWalt charger will subsequently reject the battery as "faulty" (blinking error lights).
Your assessment is entirely accurate: the other person is trying to use a generic, irrelevant link to wave away a well-documented hardware reality of the DeWalt ecosystem. Without an OEM DeWalt tool (or a specialized adapter that explicitly includes its own low-voltage cutoff circuit) mediating the discharge, a genuine DeWalt battery will happily let itself be run down into a brick by unmanaged third-party electronics.You do realize that this article is NOT talking about Dewalt batteries, right?
Nowhere in there, do they mention Dewalt.
Dewalt does NOT have the battery protections in the battery itself. (which is annoying). Dewalt has the battery protections in the TOOL itself, NOT the battery.
So again, I question your angle here, why you are arguing something (falsely). Are you simply uninformed? Are you purposely misleading people to buy these shitty knockoff products that DO NOT HAVE low volt protections? Or is this simply a redditor type "im gunna argue on the internet" type thing? Because you are 100% wrong, and I think its YOU that keeps trying to argue with me on this topic, but are 100% WRONG
Hell, ask AI about it (but you need to mention that it is DEWALT, as they are not like other brands):
1. The Link is Irrelevant
As you noted, that link points to a Battery University reference, and it does not mention DeWalt, nor does it address how DeWalt specifically engineers its cordless ecosystem. Citing general battery theory or typical lithium-ion pack behavior from an abstract article does nothing to prove what DeWalt's proprietary hardware actually does.
2. DeWalt's Design Architecture
You are correct about how DeWalt handles low-voltage cutoff (LVC) / low-voltage protection (LVP):
The Protection is in the Tool: For standard DeWalt 20V MAX slide-style batteries (like the DCB203, DCB205, etc.), the battery pack itself is basically just a cluster of lithium-ion cells, a simple thermistor for temperature monitoring, and basic series connections. There is no onboard microcontroller or LVP cutoff MOSFET circuit inside the standard battery housing to shut off power when voltage drops too low.
3. The Danger of Knockoff Adapters and Chinese Tools
Because the protection logic lives in the OEM tool and not the battery:
- When you slide a genuine DeWalt 20V battery onto a cheap third-party Chinese work light, adapter, fan, soldering iron, or knockoff tool that lacks DeWalt's communication handshake and internal cutoff circuitry, there is nothing stopping the device from draining the battery down to zero.
- Once a lithium-ion cell drops below its critical voltage threshold (usually around 2.5V to 2.8V per cell, or ~7.5V to 8.4V total for a 3S/6S pack), the internal chemistry degrades permanently, copper shunts can form causing internal shorts, and the DeWalt charger will subsequently reject the battery as "faulty" (blinking error lights).
Your assessment is entirely accurate: the other person is trying to use a generic, irrelevant link to wave away a well-documented hardware reality of the DeWalt ecosystem. Without an OEM DeWalt tool (or a specialized adapter that explicitly includes its own low-voltage cutoff circuit) mediating the discharge, a genuine DeWalt battery will happily let itself be run down into a brick by unmanaged third-party electronics.The board achieves this through several critical functions:
Cell Monitoring and Balancing
Inside the pack, lithium-ion cells are welded in series. The circuit board connects directly to individual nickel strips between each cell cluster via the C1, C2, C3, and C4 pins.
• Voltage Tracking: It provides a safe interface for the DeWalt charger to read each individual cell's voltage.
• Equalization: During charging, the board ensures that all cells fill up equally, preventing any single cell from getting overcharged (which can cause fires) or undercharged (which destroys capacity).
A factory DeWalt charger detects a defective battery pack by acting as an intelligent diagnostic computer every time a pack is inserted. It doesn't just read the main positive and negative terminals; it tests a series of communication pins (TH, ID, and C1 through C4).
The charger triggers a fast-flashing red light error code (the "Faulty Pack" signal) if the battery fails any of the following parameters:
Individual Cell Voltage Imbalance (The "C" Pins)
Inside a standard 20V Max battery, five lithium-ion cells (or groups of cells) are wired in series. The charger features independent contacts that line up with pins C1, C2, C3, and C4 on the battery.
• The Test: The charger samples the exact voltage of every cell group independently relative to the negative terminal (B-).
• The Failure: If one cell group has completely shorted out, dropped to 0V, or severely "fallen behind" the others (e.g., four cells read 3.8V but one reads 2.1V), the internal balancing circuit realizes it cannot safely equalize the pack. The charger immediately flags the pack as defective.
The battery is junked because the user is uninformed.
If anything, YOU are completely uninformed. (or a bot spamming the same thing over and over)
If anything, YOU are completely uninformed. (or a bot spamming the same thing over and over)
Hmm. Let's try again: The battery is junked because the user is uninformed.
You are using IRRELEVANT information, on batteries that have nothing to do with the topic at hand: that these GARBAGE knockoff products are DESTROYING dewalt batteries. End of story.
Stop misleading people into ruining their VERY expensive Dewalt batteries, with your false information, it is very dishonest and a shitty thing to do to people. For shame.
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