Bambu Lab Store via Amazon has Bambu Lab P1S Combo 3D Printer w/ AMS Multi-Color Printing on sale for $479. Shipping is free.
B&H Photo Video also has Bambu Lab P1S Combo 3D Printer w/ AMS Multi-Color Printing on sale for $479. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Deal Hunter ItsSoCheap for sharing this deal.
Features:
Up to 16 Colors: Bring your designs to life with vibrant multi-color/multi-material printing capabilities, perfect for showcasing your creativity. Note: Connecting Bambu Lab AMS is required.
500mm/s and 20000 mm/s² Acceleration True High Speed: Don't wait around for your masterpieces. Lightning-fast printing speed lets you focus on creating, not waiting.
Enclosed Design: Fully enclosed body improves print performance for advanced filaments. Automatic Bed Leveling: Say hello to high-quality, successful prints. Auto bed leveling makes 3D printing such an easy thing.
Set Up in 15 Minutes: Spend more time printing and less time setting up. User-friendly design ensures a hassle-free assembly experience for all skill levels.
Supported Filament: Ideal: PLA, PETG, TPU, PVA, PET ABS, ASA; Capable : PA, PC; Not Recommended: Carbon/Glass Fiber Reinforced Polymer.
This collaborative space allows users to contribute additional information, tips, and insights to enhance the original deal post. Feel free to share your knowledge and help fellow shoppers make informed decisions.
Bambu Lab Store via Amazon has Bambu Lab P1S Combo 3D Printer w/ AMS Multi-Color Printing on sale for $479. Shipping is free.
B&H Photo Video also has Bambu Lab P1S Combo 3D Printer w/ AMS Multi-Color Printing on sale for $479. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Deal Hunter ItsSoCheap for sharing this deal.
Features:
Up to 16 Colors: Bring your designs to life with vibrant multi-color/multi-material printing capabilities, perfect for showcasing your creativity. Note: Connecting Bambu Lab AMS is required.
500mm/s and 20000 mm/s² Acceleration True High Speed: Don't wait around for your masterpieces. Lightning-fast printing speed lets you focus on creating, not waiting.
Enclosed Design: Fully enclosed body improves print performance for advanced filaments. Automatic Bed Leveling: Say hello to high-quality, successful prints. Auto bed leveling makes 3D printing such an easy thing.
Set Up in 15 Minutes: Spend more time printing and less time setting up. User-friendly design ensures a hassle-free assembly experience for all skill levels.
Supported Filament: Ideal: PLA, PETG, TPU, PVA, PET ABS, ASA; Capable : PA, PC; Not Recommended: Carbon/Glass Fiber Reinforced Polymer.
Are you looking to take a moral stand or just print some things? I'm an open-source, like-to-tinker kind of guy but sometimes I just want shit to work. My P1S just works. I don't have to fark with it, I don't have to calibrate anything, I don't have to update the software, I don't have to tweak the print settings, etc. I can go on MakerWorld from the office, click print, and have the thing ready when I get home. To me, that's worth the premium price and the cost of a closed ecosystem.
I'll try to tie together a couple of the different questions and comparisons already here.
P1s vs p2s differences are quite a bit more than just which AMS is included.
Just the differences:
Hardware & Print Head
Hotend Swap: P2S has toolless quick-swap system; P1S requires screwdriver and some reaching and caution.
Nozzle & Extruder Material: P2S comes with a hardened steel nozzle and hardened steel gears; P1S comes with a stainless steel nozzle and steel gears. Minor upgrades that could be purchased for P1s, around $50
Extruder Drive: P2S utilizes a high-precision PMSM servo; P1S uses a standard stepper motor extruder.
Motion Belts: P2S is equipped with wider 9mm GT2 belts; P1S utilizes 6mm GT2 belts. Less stretch potential.
Filament Cutter: P2S uses a rear-deployed cutting mechanism; P1S uses a front-lever mechanical cutter. Less water waste, maybe likely easier maintenance
Chamber & Thermal Regulation
Bed Temperature: P2S maximum heatbed temperature of 110°C; P1S maximum of 100°C.
Ventilation: P2S incorporates an adaptive system with auto-adjusting circulation flaps and cold-air intake vents; P1S relies on passive ventilation and a basic auxiliary fan. Can be significant for some filaments.
Filtration: P2S accommodates a larger activated carbon air filter than the P1S. Not significant.
Sensors: P2S includes an integrated door status sensor; P1S lacks a door open/close sensor.
Camera & Smart Monitoring
Camera: P2S features a 1080p high-frame-rate camera stream; P1S uses a low-frame-rate 720p camera. Important for some people.
AI Features: P2S provides local NPU-powered AI detection for spaghetti, clogs, and build-plate QR codes; P1S uses baseline remote monitoring. Could be huge win, identifying a failure on a long print
Body & Accessories
Lighting: P2S integrates dual internal LED strip lights; P1S has a single low-powered internal light. Significant of attempt to live monitor or video monitor. P1s lighting is less than ideal but can be upgraded.
Feet: P2S includes built-in anti-vibration rubber feet; P1S ships with standard hard feet.
Ecosystem: P2S natively powers and dry-circulates the AMS 2 Pro system via standard cables; P1S requires a dedicated external power adapter to use any automated drying modules. Matters only if attaching AMS2 to P1s, as that would require separate power supply / plug.
Someone compared P1s or P2s against Snapmaker U1. Not really a 1:1 comparison. U1 is open frame (less dust protection is more maintenance. U1 overestimates its speed by 20%+, and lacks the compatability with more complex and engineered filaments. U1 may excel in simple prints with basic filaments, and many switches between colors. P2s (andP1s) have broader compatibility with more filament types and will excel at speed and print quality for single color prints.
Budget always matters. If someones budget only allows P1s and not P2s, there should be no hesitation on the P1s. It is an excellent machine and meets the needs for most. For a heavy user with the budget, the small improvements on the p2s are well worth the price increase.
Comparing against Bambu Labs multi head models like X2D is more complicated. Highter complexity, calibration, and maintenance are part of the higher feature set, and may not be for a beginning user. One of the best parts about the bambu p1s and p2s is they are as plug and play as any 3d printer can be. That's where I would recommend most people start. If you outgrow that, then you might actually need 2 printers and can buy whatever newest revision of si m the dual head model is released 2 years from now.
This. I went from Creality Ender 3v2 to a P1S+AMS2 combo. I'd argue the closed ecosystem is actually what makes it so seamless and convenient. I'm also a like-to-tinker kind of guy but sometimes you just don't want to have to tinker. I'd rather tinker in the modeling or electronics side of things and let the printer do its job reliably.
Makerworld making the search, slicer, and print all in one click is really the biggest advantage. I've printed way, way more due to this convenience than I ever would have with other printers. The Handy app is more limited than Bambu Studio but being able to search, click, print while at work is a game changer like you said.
I just got the flashforge creator 5 for $480 so I'm not sure why anyone would wanna go back to a single nozzle set up like this unless they wanted to stay in the bamboo family. I'm sure this is a great deal for what it is but times are changing. For instance a 4 color 24hr print on this machine would take about 7-8 or less on a multi head machine.
Fair point and I agree but I rarely do multicolor printing. If I do, it's 2 colors with a contrasting text to finish off the top layers.
Multi-tool head is definitely the way forward for multicolor but for me, the Makerworld integration and zero tinkering with settings has been invaluable.
Correct. But if you get the P1S through Bambu Lab, you'll get the ams 2 pro for $509.
Also, the P1S will lose bugs/features support about 1.5-2 years earlier than a P2S and the P2S is $140 more. Personally that matters to me, your preference may vary.
if you plan to upgrade to harden nozzle and extruder that is $50. A 4 Spooler dryer is about $80-$100.
This. I went from Creality Ender 3v2 to a P1S+AMS2 combo. I'd argue the closed ecosystem is actually what makes it so seamless and convenient. I'm also a like-to-tinker kind of guy but sometimes you just don't want to have to tinker. I'd rather tinker in the modeling or electronics side of things and let the printer do its job reliably.
Makerworld making the search, slicer, and print all in one click is really the biggest advantage. I've printed way, way more due to this convenience than I ever would have with other printers. The Handy app is more limited than Bambu Studio but being able to search, click, print while at work is a game changer like you said.
This. The closed eco system actually is better with these printers... the screwing around is over if you hop in with one of these. I enjoy tinkering but at some point you also want your stuff to work...
This. The closed eco system actually is better with these printers... the screwing around is over if you hop in with one of these. I enjoy tinkering but at some point you also want your stuff to work...
Until shit breaks or doesn't turn out and people have no clue why or how to fix it.
There's something to be said for understand how the machine works and what factors into different problems when things fail.
Until shit breaks or doesn't turn out and people have no clue why or how to fix it.
There's something to be said for understand how the machine works and what factors into different problems when things fail.
I suppose that's maybe a fair criticism but how is that different than any other printer? Bambu is a huge community. If there's an issue, someone's had it before and there's most likely a fix somewhere on youtube/reddit.
The main criticism is that when parts break, they're expensive compared to others since it's more module-based. Plenty of 3rd party manufacturers though for wear-parts.
Coming from an Ender with manual bed leveling, I suppose I'm biased and have a better understanding of potential printer issues but with the help of youtube/reddit/AI, I find it hard to believe a newbie wouldn't be able to fix any problems pretty easily.
I think they will release the p3c soon (competitor to the u1, k3, c5) and am waiting for that instead, though I expect that to be similarly priced to the competitors, maybe more.
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Genuine question, what do the folks here use multicolor prints for? Is it mostly for toys and figurines? For more functional parts, surely the dual nozzle x2d is sufficient right? My understanding is the primary nozzle is hardened and can print many engineering materials, and the second would be useful for support material.
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I'll try to tie together a couple of the different questions and comparisons already here.
P1s vs p2s differences are quite a bit more than just which AMS is included.
Just the differences: Hardware & Print Head
Hotend Swap: P2S has toolless quick-swap system; P1S requires screwdriver and some reaching and caution.
Nozzle & Extruder Material: P2S comes with a hardened steel nozzle and hardened steel gears; P1S comes with a stainless steel nozzle and steel gears. Minor upgrades that could be purchased for P1s, around $50
Extruder Drive: P2S utilizes a high-precision PMSM servo; P1S uses a standard stepper motor extruder.
Motion Belts: P2S is equipped with wider 9mm GT2 belts; P1S utilizes 6mm GT2 belts. Less stretch potential.
Filament Cutter: P2S uses a rear-deployed cutting mechanism; P1S uses a front-lever mechanical cutter. Less water waste, maybe likely easier maintenance
Chamber & Thermal Regulation
Bed Temperature: P2S maximum heatbed temperature of 110°C; P1S maximum of 100°C.
Ventilation: P2S incorporates an adaptive system with auto-adjusting circulation flaps and cold-air intake vents; P1S relies on passive ventilation and a basic auxiliary fan. Can be significant for some filaments.
Filtration: P2S accommodates a larger activated carbon air filter than the P1S. Not significant.
Sensors: P2S includes an integrated door status sensor; P1S lacks a door open/close sensor.
Camera & Smart Monitoring
Camera: P2S features a 1080p high-frame-rate camera stream; P1S uses a low-frame-rate 720p camera. Important for some people.
AI Features: P2S provides local NPU-powered AI detection for spaghetti, clogs, and build-plate QR codes; P1S uses baseline remote monitoring. Could be huge win, identifying a failure on a long print
Body & Accessories
Lighting: P2S integrates dual internal LED strip lights; P1S has a single low-powered internal light. Significant of attempt to live monitor or video monitor. P1s lighting is less than ideal but can be upgraded.
Feet: P2S includes built-in anti-vibration rubber feet; P1S ships with standard hard feet.
Ecosystem: P2S natively powers and dry-circulates the AMS 2 Pro system via standard cables; P1S requires a dedicated external power adapter to use any automated drying modules. Matters only if attaching AMS2 to P1s, as that would require separate power supply / plug.
Someone compared P1s or P2s against Snapmaker U1. Not really a 1:1 comparison. U1 is open frame (less dust protection is more maintenance. U1 overestimates its speed by 20%+, and lacks the compatability with more complex and engineered filaments. U1 may excel in simple prints with basic filaments, and many switches between colors. P2s (andP1s) have broader compatibility with more filament types and will excel at speed and print quality for single color prints.
Budget always matters. If someones budget only allows P1s and not P2s, there should be no hesitation on the P1s. It is an excellent machine and meets the needs for most. For a heavy user with the budget, the small improvements on the p2s are well worth the price increase.
Comparing against Bambu Labs multi head models like X2D is more complicated. Highter complexity, calibration, and maintenance are part of the higher feature set, and may not be for a beginning user. One of the best parts about the bambu p1s and p2s is they are as plug and play as any 3d printer can be. That's where I would recommend most people start. If you outgrow that, then you might actually need 2 printers and can buy whatever newest revision of si m the dual head model is released 2 years from now.
Last edited by E-Zee October 28, 2026 at 11:10 AM.
Correct. But if you get the P1S through Bambu Lab, you'll get the ams 2 pro for $509.Also, the P1S will lose bugs/features support about 1.5-2 years earlier than a P2S and the P2S is $140 more. Personally that matters to me, your preference may vary.
Until shit breaks or doesn't turn out and people have no clue why or how to fix it.
There's something to be said for understand how the machine works and what factors into different problems when things fail.
the printer literally gives you error codes, then links in the app from the error to full troubleshooting guides that narrow down parts.
i had the AMS communication board on my almost 4yr old giving intermittent connections... obviously didn't know this was the issue, error was intermittent loss of communication with the AMS. i went through the troubleshooting guide, grabbed my DMM and checked all the pin/pin resistances stated in the instructions until i found the culprit. ordered a new board, followed the replacement instructions and i was up and running again.
documentation was far better and more accessible than any other tool or piece of electronics that i have in my house or use for any of my professional work, and from the vendor.
your point is nonsense... coming from the early days of FDM and learning entirely too much about keeping a printer up and running happy, i'm glad that a company has pushed the industry this far into an actual controlled and documented solution.
if all you OpenSores folks had your way, we'd still be living with crazy expensive Prusa bed slingers and the rest of us buying Creality from LightInTheBox or some other equally shady site.
If anyone is looking for multicolor printing primarily, check the snapmaker U1. I was ready to buy the x2d but changed my mind because mostly I will be doing multicolored prints.
snapmaker? I'm never buying anything they make again.
What is the consensus on these? I saw a bit of frustration online regarding the ecosystem and it being somewhat closed off. Also saw some complaints about the fact that you have to send your prints to the cloud first? I dont know the full picture. Reviews are all glowing but no one really talks about that part. Personally, I dont want to have to be online to be able to print something but if there are other options, that would be welcome.
Bambu products just work. My kids and wife use it without me having to help them. You go bambu if you want to just fire off prints and not have to have a hobby of repairing and tweaking your printer. They love the A1 mini we grabbed last black friday and now I'm sitting with my finger ready to order the X2D. We didn't grab the AMS bundle and rigged multi color a fairly ghetto way (plenty of guides)
Now we've been using the lil guy far more than I ever expected. It paid for itself when I needed a special socket adapter to change my cars headlights. If you go down the path of lego bricks OMG the savings.
Genuine question, what do the folks here use multicolor prints for? Is it mostly for toys and figurines? For more functional parts, surely the dual nozzle x2d is sufficient right? My understanding is the primary nozzle is hardened and can print many engineering materials, and the second would be useful for support material.
yup... figurines, models, games, and toys in general. if you're doing primarily functional parts or organizational stuff, even if you're doing figurines/miniatures that you plan to paint later, 2 nozzles will more than do the job. second nozzle for a different material type for supports is a great addition.
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snapmaker? I'm never buying anything they make again.
I have U1 and they have did a real good job with it and I am so impressed with their support team. I believe their earlier printers had issues, but they have totally changed themselves with U1
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Top Comments
P1s vs p2s differences are quite a bit more than just which AMS is included.
Just the differences:
Hardware & Print Head
Hotend Swap: P2S has toolless quick-swap system; P1S requires screwdriver and some reaching and caution.
Nozzle & Extruder Material: P2S comes with a hardened steel nozzle and hardened steel gears; P1S comes with a stainless steel nozzle and steel gears. Minor upgrades that could be purchased for P1s, around $50
Extruder Drive: P2S utilizes a high-precision PMSM servo; P1S uses a standard stepper motor extruder.
Motion Belts: P2S is equipped with wider 9mm GT2 belts; P1S utilizes 6mm GT2 belts. Less stretch potential.
Filament Cutter: P2S uses a rear-deployed cutting mechanism; P1S uses a front-lever mechanical cutter. Less water waste, maybe likely easier maintenance
Chamber & Thermal Regulation
Bed Temperature: P2S maximum heatbed temperature of 110°C; P1S maximum of 100°C.
Ventilation: P2S incorporates an adaptive system with auto-adjusting circulation flaps and cold-air intake vents; P1S relies on passive ventilation and a basic auxiliary fan. Can be significant for some filaments.
Filtration: P2S accommodates a larger activated carbon air filter than the P1S. Not significant.
Sensors: P2S includes an integrated door status sensor; P1S lacks a door open/close sensor.
Camera & Smart Monitoring
Camera: P2S features a 1080p high-frame-rate camera stream; P1S uses a low-frame-rate 720p camera. Important for some people.
AI Features: P2S provides local NPU-powered AI detection for spaghetti, clogs, and build-plate QR codes; P1S uses baseline remote monitoring. Could be huge win, identifying a failure on a long print
Body & Accessories
Lighting: P2S integrates dual internal LED strip lights; P1S has a single low-powered internal light. Significant of attempt to live monitor or video monitor. P1s lighting is less than ideal but can be upgraded.
Feet: P2S includes built-in anti-vibration rubber feet; P1S ships with standard hard feet.
Ecosystem: P2S natively powers and dry-circulates the AMS 2 Pro system via standard cables; P1S requires a dedicated external power adapter to use any automated drying modules. Matters only if attaching AMS2 to P1s, as that would require separate power supply / plug.
Someone compared P1s or P2s against Snapmaker U1. Not really a 1:1 comparison. U1 is open frame (less dust protection is more maintenance. U1 overestimates its speed by 20%+, and lacks the compatability with more complex and engineered filaments. U1 may excel in simple prints with basic filaments, and many switches between colors. P2s (andP1s) have broader compatibility with more filament types and will excel at speed and print quality for single color prints.
Budget always matters. If someones budget only allows P1s and not P2s, there should be no hesitation on the P1s. It is an excellent machine and meets the needs for most. For a heavy user with the budget, the small improvements on the p2s are well worth the price increase.
Comparing against Bambu Labs multi head models like X2D is more complicated. Highter complexity, calibration, and maintenance are part of the higher feature set, and may not be for a beginning user. One of the best parts about the bambu p1s and p2s is they are as plug and play as any 3d printer can be. That's where I would recommend most people start. If you outgrow that, then you might actually need 2 printers and can buy whatever newest revision of si m the dual head model is released 2 years from now.
Makerworld making the search, slicer, and print all in one click is really the biggest advantage. I've printed way, way more due to this convenience than I ever would have with other printers. The Handy app is more limited than Bambu Studio but being able to search, click, print while at work is a game changer like you said.
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Multi-tool head is definitely the way forward for multicolor but for me, the Makerworld integration and zero tinkering with settings has been invaluable.
Also, the P1S will lose bugs/features support about 1.5-2 years earlier than a P2S and the P2S is $140 more. Personally that matters to me, your preference may vary.
Bambu Lab
Whoa Black Betty
Bambu Lab
Bed's all level no time to dab
Makerworld making the search, slicer, and print all in one click is really the biggest advantage. I've printed way, way more due to this convenience than I ever would have with other printers. The Handy app is more limited than Bambu Studio but being able to search, click, print while at work is a game changer like you said.
There's something to be said for understand how the machine works and what factors into different problems when things fail.
There's something to be said for understand how the machine works and what factors into different problems when things fail.
The main criticism is that when parts break, they're expensive compared to others since it's more module-based. Plenty of 3rd party manufacturers though for wear-parts.
Coming from an Ender with manual bed leveling, I suppose I'm biased and have a better understanding of potential printer issues but with the help of youtube/reddit/AI, I find it hard to believe a newbie wouldn't be able to fix any problems pretty easily.
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank
P1s vs p2s differences are quite a bit more than just which AMS is included.
Just the differences:
Hardware & Print Head
- Hotend Swap: P2S has toolless quick-swap system; P1S requires screwdriver and some reaching and caution.
- Nozzle & Extruder Material: P2S comes with a hardened steel nozzle and hardened steel gears; P1S comes with a stainless steel nozzle and steel gears. Minor upgrades that could be purchased for P1s, around $50
- Extruder Drive: P2S utilizes a high-precision PMSM servo; P1S uses a standard stepper motor extruder.
- Motion Belts: P2S is equipped with wider 9mm GT2 belts; P1S utilizes 6mm GT2 belts. Less stretch potential.
- Filament Cutter: P2S uses a rear-deployed cutting mechanism; P1S uses a front-lever mechanical cutter. Less water waste, maybe likely easier maintenance
Chamber & Thermal Regulation- Bed Temperature: P2S maximum heatbed temperature of 110°C; P1S maximum of 100°C.
- Ventilation: P2S incorporates an adaptive system with auto-adjusting circulation flaps and cold-air intake vents; P1S relies on passive ventilation and a basic auxiliary fan. Can be significant for some filaments.
- Filtration: P2S accommodates a larger activated carbon air filter than the P1S. Not significant.
- Sensors: P2S includes an integrated door status sensor; P1S lacks a door open/close sensor.
Camera & Smart Monitoring- Camera: P2S features a 1080p high-frame-rate camera stream; P1S uses a low-frame-rate 720p camera. Important for some people.
- AI Features: P2S provides local NPU-powered AI detection for spaghetti, clogs, and build-plate QR codes; P1S uses baseline remote monitoring. Could be huge win, identifying a failure on a long print
Body & Accessories- Lighting: P2S integrates dual internal LED strip lights; P1S has a single low-powered internal light. Significant of attempt to live monitor or video monitor. P1s lighting is less than ideal but can be upgraded.
- Feet: P2S includes built-in anti-vibration rubber feet; P1S ships with standard hard feet.
- Ecosystem: P2S natively powers and dry-circulates the AMS 2 Pro system via standard cables; P1S requires a dedicated external power adapter to use any automated drying modules. Matters only if attaching AMS2 to P1s, as that would require separate power supply / plug.
Someone compared P1s or P2s against Snapmaker U1. Not really a 1:1 comparison. U1 is open frame (less dust protection is more maintenance. U1 overestimates its speed by 20%+, and lacks the compatability with more complex and engineered filaments. U1 may excel in simple prints with basic filaments, and many switches between colors. P2s (andP1s) have broader compatibility with more filament types and will excel at speed and print quality for single color prints.Budget always matters. If someones budget only allows P1s and not P2s, there should be no hesitation on the P1s. It is an excellent machine and meets the needs for most. For a heavy user with the budget, the small improvements on the p2s are well worth the price increase.
Comparing against Bambu Labs multi head models like X2D is more complicated. Highter complexity, calibration, and maintenance are part of the higher feature set, and may not be for a beginning user. One of the best parts about the bambu p1s and p2s is they are as plug and play as any 3d printer can be. That's where I would recommend most people start. If you outgrow that, then you might actually need 2 printers and can buy whatever newest revision of si m the dual head model is released 2 years from now.
There's something to be said for understand how the machine works and what factors into different problems when things fail.
i had the AMS communication board on my almost 4yr old giving intermittent connections... obviously didn't know this was the issue, error was intermittent loss of communication with the AMS. i went through the troubleshooting guide, grabbed my DMM and checked all the pin/pin resistances stated in the instructions until i found the culprit. ordered a new board, followed the replacement instructions and i was up and running again.
documentation was far better and more accessible than any other tool or piece of electronics that i have in my house or use for any of my professional work, and from the vendor.
your point is nonsense... coming from the early days of FDM and learning entirely too much about keeping a printer up and running happy, i'm glad that a company has pushed the industry this far into an actual controlled and documented solution.
if all you OpenSores folks had your way, we'd still be living with crazy expensive Prusa bed slingers and the rest of us buying Creality from LightInTheBox or some other equally shady site.
Now we've been using the lil guy far more than I ever expected. It paid for itself when I needed a special socket adapter to change my cars headlights. If you go down the path of lego bricks OMG the savings.
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