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4' x 8' 1195 lb. Capacity Heavy Duty Folding Utility Trailer $224.99(+tax) AC B&M - Harbor Freight Hools
$224.99
$399.99
http://www.harborfreig
Haul-Master - item#90154 - 1195 lb. Capacity Heavy Duty Folding Utility Trailer, 48 in. x 96 in.
$399.99 regular, On sale for $299.99
Use coupon code 13276113 in-store(good on-line too) for 25% OFF ANY ONE ITEM.
Total is $224.99 + Tax
240 bucks for a 4x8 decent little trailer that most crossover SUV's these days could pull, Requires assembly, but with another 60 in lumber and it'd be hard to find a heavily used one on craigslist for that cheap. Comes with title, just purchased one at my local HF.
Haul-Master - item#90154 - 1195 lb. Capacity Heavy Duty Folding Utility Trailer, 48 in. x 96 in.
$399.99 regular, On sale for $299.99
Use coupon code 13276113 in-store(good on-line too) for 25% OFF ANY ONE ITEM.
Total is $224.99 + Tax
240 bucks for a 4x8 decent little trailer that most crossover SUV's these days could pull, Requires assembly, but with another 60 in lumber and it'd be hard to find a heavily used one on craigslist for that cheap. Comes with title, just purchased one at my local HF.
Created 03-21-2014
at 05:42 PM
by jrh62520
in
Autos
(7)
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Community Wiki
Last Edited by WIckedNews
March 22, 2014
at
08:27 AM
This post can be edited by most users to provide up-to-date information about developments of this thread based on user responses, and user findings. Feel free to add, change or remove information shown here as it becomes available. This includes new coupons, rebates, ideas, thread summary, and similar items.
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Here are instructions on how to build a trailer.
http://www.outsidether
Once a Thread Wiki is added to a thread, "Create Wiki" button will disappear. If you would like to learn more about Thread Wiki feature, click here.
Here are instructions on how to build a trailer.
http://www.outsidether
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I pull mine around in a wagon. Two oxen.
YouTube "pack hubs trailer", I dunno how, but I know how to Google.
Countersink: basically drilling the hole out so the screw is flush and not sticking out to catch on anything you drag across the surface. 1: drill hole for bolt to go through, 2: drill hole directly into previous hole but only the depth of bolt head. if it's a machine bolt, drill bit should be no smaller than the diameter of the bolt. If it's a wood screw, same works, or I do it slightly smaller than the screw. It makes the screw hold in place better. I'm assuming machine screws in this case.
Caster: small cheap wheel, like the ones under your fridge.
A receiver/hitch is what's bolted or welded to your car's frame or truck to pull your trailer. It works with your drop hitch so your trailer can be towed at a level height. If you have a truck with 35" tires, you can't bumper-pull this, the back end will drag. You would need a drop-hitch. (On level ground, hold your trailer level (use a level, torpedo or otherwise; measure from the ground to the tongue. That's your optimum tow height. If your bumper is too high over this, you probably shouldn't pull with the bumper. This uses a 1 7/8" ball.
If you didn't understand half of that, you probably shouldn't be messing with this project.
Don't forget, it only has a 1200 pound weight limit.
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SO angry. Sheesh.
http://jaredyates.com/pages/trail...iler.sh
Just did a quick search for your car's towing capacity. 3500 is plenty -- my Pontiac G6 is only rated to pull up to 1000 lbs, and I can easily pull this trailer with about 700 lbs on it without killing my transmission.
Only: $459.99 Sale: $359.99 - 25%($90) = $269.99
I own this trailer, I bought it two weeks ago for the above price.
For an extra $45 you get an additional 30% weight capacity and a heavier, more durable frame, better wheels/tires/axle.
Much like the OP item, the bearings in this trailer also do need to be re-greased or replaced outright.
Thread lock is also recommended for the frame bolts, but I would put on double nylon nuts onto the axle bolts instead.(See below)
The only downside of this version compared to the item listed by OP is that it is NOT FOLDABLE. However, I have found that it is relatively easy to unhook the frame from the axle and store the trailer on it's side in the garage. The wheels/axle do just fine upright leaning into in a corner. It takes me about 5 minutes to re/disassemble in this method, and wheel in to the garage on a mover's dolly. [harborfreight.com]
I would also strongly recommend that you pick up good wheeled trailer jack [harborfreight.com] to put on the front of as this will make it possible (and much safer) to load the trailer without having it constantly hooked to a trailer hitch. If you temporarily put a couple of sandbags on the very front of the hitch it will also counterbalance the trailer to make it so it will not flip back on you while you are initially loading heavy items.
Wheel chocks [harborfreight.com] are an absolute MUST when using this on anything but a perfectly level surface, or you will probably have a 'learning experience' about just how hard it is to stop a 1,700lb loaded trailer from rolling out into the street.
You CAN use this coupon code in store, you just need to write the code down (or print your hf shopping cart showing the item with the discount/code applied) and they will price match in store. (see my post in another hf thread) You can only use this coupon once per transaction, so buy something and take it out to your car, do the rest of your shopping and then use the same code on your next purchase.
Depending upon the short term memory of the cashier/manager, they may want to limit the code to 1 per visit, so you may want to bring a friend to pretend to be a person/customer. (then give them beer)
Hope this helps!
-J
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