Costco Members: MrCool E Star DIY 12K BTU Ductless Mini-Split Heat Pump System
$1250
$1,399.99
& More + Free S/H
+37Deal Score
62,373 Views
Costco Wholesale has for their Costco Members:MrCool E Star DIY Ductless Mini-Split Heat Pump Complete Systems for the prices listed. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Community Member panini for finding this deal.
Note, must login to your Costco account w/ an active membership to view sale/pricing. If you don't have a Costco Warehouse Membership, you can sign-up here.
As someone who just installed a "non" DIY mini split at their house, I want to encourage people to give them a try. I was very nervous about the install, but ultimately it is not that hard as long as you know the procedure (which I understand is the hardest part). In short, you can buy a non-DIY mini split, vacuum pump, and gauges all for less than a single Mr. Cool DIY setup. The video that helped out with the vacuuming part was from "DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse" on YouTube. You hook everything up and then connect the low-pressure blue side of the gauge to the port on the outdoor unit and the yellow hose to the vacuum. Run the vacuum for 15 minutes and let it sit for over an hour to confirm via the gauge there are no leaks. Assuming no leaks, you release a bit of the freon from the unit into the lines and then disconnect the gauge. Once disconnected you open everything up and you're good to go!
I nearly bought the DIY unit so I wouldn't have to mess with a vacuum, but now I'm glad I went that route to save money and learn along the way. You got this!
I bought the 24k a few years ago and I absolutely LOVE IT. It runs quiet and can chill things out in a hurry. I put mine in the living room as it's a centralized location and use my heat thermostat fan to circulate the cool air through the house (single story home).
The install for this can be very involved but it will really depend on your situation layout and skill level. If you get a 120v/15' hose unit that you can plug in to a standard recepticle, mount the head on the wall, drill a hole and shove the lines outside, then mount the unit on the siding or a concrete pad outside the wall, this install will likely be pretty easy.
It also be a pain as well though once you get into the 240v units if you aren't set up for it. I'm an electrician by trade and it took me 50 hours to install mine. That involved quite a few steps:
-Coring a 3" hole through brick, running lines up and through my garage and out the side wall.
-Setting up a chain-fall to hoist the condenser into the air, plus buying wall brackets and placing backing board in the walls with lag bolts to make damn sure it was solid.
-I bought the line gutter kit to give it a really clean install, highly recommend it.
-Run 1/2" conduit from my panel to a junction box outside the house, through the garage, to a disconnect under the unit.
-Installed 30 amp breaker and pulled 2 circuits a neutral and a ground, 10awg. The condenser doesn't need the neutral but you need a service gfci recepticle within a reasonable distance of the condenser unit. Plus it's been great having a plug out there now.
Sorry for the long ass post but take a few minutes with a pen and paper and a measuring tape before starting a project like this. What length of lines are you getting, how are you going to hide them? (coiling them up neatly behind the condenser is fine) What kind of walls are you drilling through, where is the condenser mounting, what voltage system will you need?
A 3" masonry core bit, wall brackets, gutters, EMT conduit, disconnect, hose and conduit supports, wire, chainfall; that's all things I hadn't anticipated but were made possible by my sponsors Amazon next day shipping and repeated trips to Home Depot heh.
Wish I knew how to host pics because it turned out great though. Good luck and safe installs everyone 👍
Costco has an awesome price adjustment policy. No need to return or even speak to anyone. Just go to costco(dot)com(slash)PriceAdjustmentView and submit the price it is now vs. what you paid for. They will reimburse you.
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I had an undersized mini split installed in my home a few years ago (Mitsubishi unit). There's no chance I can reuse the same hose set I currently have and install new MRCOOL stuff on both ends, right?
Down to what temp will these models efficiently heat? That spec is important for anyone looking to use for heat and is conspicuously missing from the description, or I may have missed it.
I did a Mr Cool self install about 3 years ago with zero troubles. I manage some rentals and my a/c guy doesn't mind working on Mr Cool at. He recommended I buy this. He did suggest I use a sealer at both ends of cooper tubing which I did.
My first home was quite small ~970 sq ft, it was older so it wasn't set up for central air (no ducting). I bought one of these and installed it myself and it was fantastic. Both the heating and cooling worked extremely well. I would assume in a home that was newer with infinitely better insulation and windows that weren't original (single pane and very drafty) this would work even better. I would just funnel air down the hallway to the rooms in the back of the house and that worked very well for cooling/heating those rooms.
I never had a single issue in the 7 years I operated the unit, and it ran for all intents and purposes full time. The key is getting the drain hose correct so it doesn't back up. The only issue I had was self caused, it wasn't major I just should have angled it down an additional 2 degrees and everything would have been perfect.
If I were to need one of these again I would without hesitation buy one again.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank pezjono
04-02-2024 at 02:40 PM.
As someone who just installed a "non" DIY mini split at their house, I want to encourage people to give them a try. I was very nervous about the install, but ultimately it is not that hard as long as you know the procedure (which I understand is the hardest part). In short, you can buy a non-DIY mini split, vacuum pump, and gauges all for less than a single Mr. Cool DIY setup. The video that helped out with the vacuuming part was from "DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse" on YouTube. You hook everything up and then connect the low-pressure blue side of the gauge to the port on the outdoor unit and the yellow hose to the vacuum. Run the vacuum for 15 minutes and let it sit for over an hour to confirm via the gauge there are no leaks. Assuming no leaks, you release a bit of the freon from the unit into the lines and then disconnect the gauge. Once disconnected you open everything up and you're good to go!
I nearly bought the DIY unit so I wouldn't have to mess with a vacuum, but now I'm glad I went that route to save money and learn along the way. You got this!
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank pezjono
04-02-2024 at 02:43 PM.
Quote
from beakeru2
:
dang i just bought this for 1399.00 a few days ago from costco.. It is still in the box unopened.. wondering if I should take it back..
Costco has an awesome price adjustment policy. No need to return or even speak to anyone. Just go to costco(dot)com(slash)PriceAdjustmentView and submit the price it is now vs. what you paid for. They will reimburse you.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank Sinjin28
04-02-2024 at 02:43 PM.
I bought the 24k a few years ago and I absolutely LOVE IT. It runs quiet and can chill things out in a hurry. I put mine in the living room as it's a centralized location and use my heat thermostat fan to circulate the cool air through the house (single story home).
The install for this can be very involved but it will really depend on your situation layout and skill level. If you get a 120v/15' hose unit that you can plug in to a standard recepticle, mount the head on the wall, drill a hole and shove the lines outside, then mount the unit on the siding or a concrete pad outside the wall, this install will likely be pretty easy.
It also be a pain as well though once you get into the 240v units if you aren't set up for it. I'm an electrician by trade and it took me 50 hours to install mine. That involved quite a few steps:
-Coring a 3" hole through brick, running lines up and through my garage and out the side wall.
-Setting up a chain-fall to hoist the condenser into the air, plus buying wall brackets and placing backing board in the walls with lag bolts to make damn sure it was solid.
-I bought the line gutter kit to give it a really clean install, highly recommend it.
-Run 1/2" conduit from my panel to a junction box outside the house, through the garage, to a disconnect under the unit.
-Installed 30 amp breaker and pulled 2 circuits a neutral and a ground, 10awg. The condenser doesn't need the neutral but you need a service gfci recepticle within a reasonable distance of the condenser unit. Plus it's been great having a plug out there now.
Sorry for the long ass post but take a few minutes with a pen and paper and a measuring tape before starting a project like this. What length of lines are you getting, how are you going to hide them? (coiling them up neatly behind the condenser is fine) What kind of walls are you drilling through, where is the condenser mounting, what voltage system will you need?
A 3" masonry core bit, wall brackets, gutters, EMT conduit, disconnect, hose and conduit supports, wire, chainfall; that's all things I hadn't anticipated but were made possible by my sponsors Amazon next day shipping and repeated trips to Home Depot heh.
Wish I knew how to host pics because it turned out great though. Good luck and safe installs everyone 👍
Down to what temp will these models efficiently heat? That spec is important for anyone looking to use for heat and is conspicuously missing from the description, or I may have missed it.
This kind of info is hard to find for many brands, and they all advertise it differently too. Senville has the best I've seen with 75% btu load at -22f
Down to what temp will these models efficiently heat? That spec is important for anyone looking to use for heat and is conspicuously missing from the description, or I may have missed it.
For me that would be the COP, or basically what multiple of kw gets you a net kw out in terms of heat. That makes it rather easy to compare heating types, or more concisely, which heating type to use based on the season. I have a few heating types - primary NG/boiler/baseboard, pellet stove, several heat pumps, and propane and NG fireplaces depending on the room. All of these things cost differently depending on how they are priced, but what I wanted to know is, when does operating the heat pump become more expensive than gas? Unfortunately finding the COP for any given unit, much less how that varies with outdoor temperature, is difficult if not impossible.
I bought the 24k a few years ago and I absolutely LOVE IT. It runs quiet and can chill things out in a hurry. I put mine in the living room as it's a centralized location and use my heat thermostat fan to circulate the cool air through the house (single story home).
The install for this can be very involved but it will really depend on your situation layout and skill level. If you get a 120v/15' hose unit that you can plug in to a standard recepticle, mount the head on the wall, drill a hole and shove the lines outside, then mount the unit on the siding or a concrete pad outside the wall, this install will likely be pretty easy.
It also be a pain as well though once you get into the 240v units if you aren't set up for it. I'm an electrician by trade and it took me 50 hours to install mine. That involved quite a few steps:
-Coring a 3" hole through brick, running lines up and through my garage and out the side wall.
-Setting up a chain-fall to hoist the condenser into the air, plus buying wall brackets and placing backing board in the walls with lag bolts to make damn sure it was solid.
-I bought the line gutter kit to give it a really clean install, highly recommend it.
-Run 1/2" conduit from my panel to a junction box outside the house, through the garage, to a disconnect under the unit.
-Installed 30 amp breaker and pulled 2 circuits a neutral and a ground, 10awg. The condenser doesn't need the neutral but you need a service gfci recepticle within a reasonable distance of the condenser unit. Plus it's been great having a plug out there now.
Sorry for the long ass post but take a few minutes with a pen and paper and a measuring tape before starting a project like this. What length of lines are you getting, how are you going to hide them? (coiling them up neatly behind the condenser is fine) What kind of walls are you drilling through, where is the condenser mounting, what voltage system will you need?
A 3" masonry core bit, wall brackets, gutters, EMT conduit, disconnect, hose and conduit supports, wire, chainfall; that's all things I hadn't anticipated but were made possible by my sponsors Amazon next day shipping and repeated trips to Home Depot heh.
Wish I knew how to host pics because it turned out great though. Good luck and safe installs everyone 👍
Thanks for this. 50 hrs by an electrician convinced me I'm not going to try this myself. It also convinced me I would pay probably 2X cost of the kit for the install here in New England.
I bought these last year, they are great but plan to spend $$ for the install. Its not easy. I paid $600.each per system and most HVAC pros in my area won't install if you don't buy it from them (bc they mark it up 40%). Craigslist is great for finding installers
Thanks for this. 50 hrs by an electrician convinced me I'm not going to try this myself. It also convinced me I would pay probably 2X cost of the kit for the install here in New England.
Please don't be deterred! Or at least check out a few videos on YouTube. My install took that long because I hadn't done one before, so I was problem solving as I encountered them, and I also went above and beyond on the install to make sure it was up to my standards. It didn't help that I was doing this in the evenings after work, so I didn't want to disturb the neighbors too much.
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I nearly bought the DIY unit so I wouldn't have to mess with a vacuum, but now I'm glad I went that route to save money and learn along the way. You got this!
The install for this can be very involved but it will really depend on your situation layout and skill level. If you get a 120v/15' hose unit that you can plug in to a standard recepticle, mount the head on the wall, drill a hole and shove the lines outside, then mount the unit on the siding or a concrete pad outside the wall, this install will likely be pretty easy.
It also be a pain as well though once you get into the 240v units if you aren't set up for it. I'm an electrician by trade and it took me 50 hours to install mine. That involved quite a few steps:
-Coring a 3" hole through brick, running lines up and through my garage and out the side wall.
-Setting up a chain-fall to hoist the condenser into the air, plus buying wall brackets and placing backing board in the walls with lag bolts to make damn sure it was solid.
-I bought the line gutter kit to give it a really clean install, highly recommend it.
-Run 1/2" conduit from my panel to a junction box outside the house, through the garage, to a disconnect under the unit.
-Installed 30 amp breaker and pulled 2 circuits a neutral and a ground, 10awg. The condenser doesn't need the neutral but you need a service gfci recepticle within a reasonable distance of the condenser unit. Plus it's been great having a plug out there now.
Sorry for the long ass post but take a few minutes with a pen and paper and a measuring tape before starting a project like this. What length of lines are you getting, how are you going to hide them? (coiling them up neatly behind the condenser is fine) What kind of walls are you drilling through, where is the condenser mounting, what voltage system will you need?
A 3" masonry core bit, wall brackets, gutters, EMT conduit, disconnect, hose and conduit supports, wire, chainfall; that's all things I hadn't anticipated but were made possible by my sponsors Amazon next day shipping and repeated trips to Home Depot heh.
Wish I knew how to host pics because it turned out great though. Good luck and safe installs everyone 👍
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Nobody here wants to touch heat pumps so the techs that have come out from multiple companies don't know anything.
4 years old now.
crazy it is more expensive now than what I paid , $1300 for the 18k DIY at home Depot
paid $125 for install.
$500 for 220v line outside
I never had a single issue in the 7 years I operated the unit, and it ran for all intents and purposes full time. The key is getting the drain hose correct so it doesn't back up. The only issue I had was self caused, it wasn't major I just should have angled it down an additional 2 degrees and everything would have been perfect.
If I were to need one of these again I would without hesitation buy one again.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank pezjono
I nearly bought the DIY unit so I wouldn't have to mess with a vacuum, but now I'm glad I went that route to save money and learn along the way. You got this!
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank pezjono
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank Sinjin28
The install for this can be very involved but it will really depend on your situation layout and skill level. If you get a 120v/15' hose unit that you can plug in to a standard recepticle, mount the head on the wall, drill a hole and shove the lines outside, then mount the unit on the siding or a concrete pad outside the wall, this install will likely be pretty easy.
It also be a pain as well though once you get into the 240v units if you aren't set up for it. I'm an electrician by trade and it took me 50 hours to install mine. That involved quite a few steps:
-Coring a 3" hole through brick, running lines up and through my garage and out the side wall.
-Setting up a chain-fall to hoist the condenser into the air, plus buying wall brackets and placing backing board in the walls with lag bolts to make damn sure it was solid.
-I bought the line gutter kit to give it a really clean install, highly recommend it.
-Run 1/2" conduit from my panel to a junction box outside the house, through the garage, to a disconnect under the unit.
-Installed 30 amp breaker and pulled 2 circuits a neutral and a ground, 10awg. The condenser doesn't need the neutral but you need a service gfci recepticle within a reasonable distance of the condenser unit. Plus it's been great having a plug out there now.
Sorry for the long ass post but take a few minutes with a pen and paper and a measuring tape before starting a project like this. What length of lines are you getting, how are you going to hide them? (coiling them up neatly behind the condenser is fine) What kind of walls are you drilling through, where is the condenser mounting, what voltage system will you need?
A 3" masonry core bit, wall brackets, gutters, EMT conduit, disconnect, hose and conduit supports, wire, chainfall; that's all things I hadn't anticipated but were made possible by my sponsors Amazon next day shipping and repeated trips to Home Depot heh.
Wish I knew how to host pics because it turned out great though. Good luck and safe installs everyone 👍
This kind of info is hard to find for many brands, and they all advertise it differently too. Senville has the best I've seen with 75% btu load at -22f
For me that would be the COP, or basically what multiple of kw gets you a net kw out in terms of heat. That makes it rather easy to compare heating types, or more concisely, which heating type to use based on the season. I have a few heating types - primary NG/boiler/baseboard, pellet stove, several heat pumps, and propane and NG fireplaces depending on the room. All of these things cost differently depending on how they are priced, but what I wanted to know is, when does operating the heat pump become more expensive than gas? Unfortunately finding the COP for any given unit, much less how that varies with outdoor temperature, is difficult if not impossible.
The install for this can be very involved but it will really depend on your situation layout and skill level. If you get a 120v/15' hose unit that you can plug in to a standard recepticle, mount the head on the wall, drill a hole and shove the lines outside, then mount the unit on the siding or a concrete pad outside the wall, this install will likely be pretty easy.
It also be a pain as well though once you get into the 240v units if you aren't set up for it. I'm an electrician by trade and it took me 50 hours to install mine. That involved quite a few steps:
-Coring a 3" hole through brick, running lines up and through my garage and out the side wall.
-Setting up a chain-fall to hoist the condenser into the air, plus buying wall brackets and placing backing board in the walls with lag bolts to make damn sure it was solid.
-I bought the line gutter kit to give it a really clean install, highly recommend it.
-Run 1/2" conduit from my panel to a junction box outside the house, through the garage, to a disconnect under the unit.
-Installed 30 amp breaker and pulled 2 circuits a neutral and a ground, 10awg. The condenser doesn't need the neutral but you need a service gfci recepticle within a reasonable distance of the condenser unit. Plus it's been great having a plug out there now.
Sorry for the long ass post but take a few minutes with a pen and paper and a measuring tape before starting a project like this. What length of lines are you getting, how are you going to hide them? (coiling them up neatly behind the condenser is fine) What kind of walls are you drilling through, where is the condenser mounting, what voltage system will you need?
A 3" masonry core bit, wall brackets, gutters, EMT conduit, disconnect, hose and conduit supports, wire, chainfall; that's all things I hadn't anticipated but were made possible by my sponsors Amazon next day shipping and repeated trips to Home Depot heh.
Wish I knew how to host pics because it turned out great though. Good luck and safe installs everyone 👍
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Please don't be deterred! Or at least check out a few videos on YouTube. My install took that long because I hadn't done one before, so I was problem solving as I encountered them, and I also went above and beyond on the install to make sure it was up to my standards. It didn't help that I was doing this in the evenings after work, so I didn't want to disturb the neighbors too much.