Kershaw 1306BW Filter BlackWash Folding SpeedSafe Pocket Knife Expired

https://bikersofamerica.blogspot....-2013.html

"Kershaw Speed Safe AO - The Karnette amendment is also what makes Kershaw Speed Safe assisted opening knives perfectly legal in California. Speed Safe satisfies 3 conditions instead of minimum two, not to be a switchblade, i.e. it has a thumbstud on the blade, which the knife operator has to push to open the knife, second Kershaw AOs have a detent, and just those two would be enough to comply switchblade law, but the torsion bar of the Speed Safe mechanism also forces the blade to stay in closed position, i.e. provides bias towards locked position."


One problem though is CA LEOs for the most part are not knowledgeable or don't care about this & seize the knife.

CA schools have stricter laws (duh) as do certain counties. Many to avoid hassle make their own "Emerson Wave" opener with a zip tie on blades with thumb holes.

Apologies for rambling, I like to talk about knives.

Nice knife for the money. All steel so a bit heavy. 4cr14 stainless steel is considered somewhat soft, budget steel. It will be easy to put a wicked edge on, but won't hold it for a ton of use like some harder steels will. $13.97 is the normal Walmart price and has been for some time. Really nice SpeedSafe assisted opening that works like a charm. I find myself carrying this knife over some of the more expensive option in my collection. Bang for the buck this knife knocks it out of the park. The knife just feels really nice in my hand, and the jimping along the spine make it easy to get a good grip on despite the smooth metal handle.

In some areas (California, New York?) it is illegal to carry any folding knife with a cutting edge more than 3" in your pocket. It's an illegal concealed weapon at that point. It make it legal you need to put it in a sheath and carry it on your belt where it can be clearly seen, so not under a jacket or shirt.

For those who don't know various knife steel, it's all a trade off in edge retention (hardness) vs. toughness vs. corrosion resistance. The harder a particular steel the longer it will keep an edge, but the harder it will be to sharpen. Also, the harder the steel the more likely it will be to chip or break, where a "softer" steel might just roll the edge over and be easy to straighten.

Also, despite it's name, all stainless steels need cleaning and oiling to stay free of rust. There is no such thing as a maintenance free knife. Be ready to learn to sharpen, especially with softer, budget steel like 4cr14 in this knife. And if you every move into carbon steel knives those blades require even more diligence when it comes to cleaning and lubrication to avoid rust.

Wikipedia has a good article on knife steel: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lis..._materials. Some steels are "better" that others, but it really depends on what you want the knife to do. You don't want a knife you are going to use to baton wood to be made out of super hard steel if it is too brittle to take the abuse. Or you might consider it worth the extra money to pay for a harder more premium steel that hill hold an edge longer between sharpenings. http://knifeinformer.com/discover...ife-steel/ is a good read as well.

Don't be afraid to grab a torx driver and adjust the pivot screw on any knife if you don't like the action on it. Keep an eye on the rest of the screws, too. If they get loose a bit of threadloc is your friend before they fall out and you lose it. True up any edge foldover with a steel from your kitchen knife set (or spend $1 for one at a thrift shop) and even a cheap, yellow Smith's pull-thru sharpener will keep a knife with softish steel like this one sharp. And an oily rag is your friend.

A budget knife like this Filter will last a lifetime if you do your part.

Surprise, surprise.....sorry, could't help it. Op, TU.