Direct Tools Factory Outlet has RIDGID 18-Volt OCTANE Cordless Brushless 3-1/4" Hand Planer (Factory Blemished, Tool Only R8481B) on sale for $99.99. Shipping is $7. Thanks nycab
Editor's Notes & Price Research
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Offer valid while supplies last. Supplies may be limited. ~RevOne
A properly fit door has, at a minimum, a back-beveled leading/latch edge. The hinge side is also often beveled to give the proper hinge spread. This is increasingly important the thicker the door (eg 1-3/4", 2-1/4"). Otherwise, and how most cheapo pre-hung doors get away with it, you have overly large margins to allow the trailing edge of the door on the latch edge to clear the jamb as you open/close it. Using approximate math, a 2/6 (30") 1-3/8" door will be 1/32" tighter at the trailing edge of the door when you open it. The same door in 1-3/4" will be 3/64" tighter, and a 2-1/4" door will be 5/64" tighter. With a 3/32" margin this means your door will start rubbing with very little wear/sag, especially solid wood doors which will change with humidity.
Whoa....did you invent doors?
Note that this is factory blemished but new. As such, it is eligible for Ridgid's LSA (lifetime service agreement). Most people report that the blemishes are very minor or non-existent.
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Note that this is factory blemished but new. As such, it is eligible for Ridgid's LSA (lifetime service agreement). Most people report that the blemishes are very minor or non-existent.
not niche but specific tool. Super useful if you work doing doors.
Yeah, that's fair. I should've clarified that I have a cheaper corded one, but can't justify investing in one for the off-chance that I need to plane a door.
Yes, and it has a 90° fence for this. Not sure why you'd want to plane a surface out of square.
A properly fit door has, at a minimum, a back-beveled leading/latch edge. The hinge side is also often beveled to give the proper hinge spread. This is increasingly important the thicker the door (eg 1-3/4", 2-1/4"). Otherwise, and how most cheapo pre-hung doors get away with it, you have overly large margins to allow the trailing edge of the door on the latch edge to clear the jamb as you open/close it. Using approximate math, a 2/6 (30") 1-3/8" door will be 1/32" tighter at the trailing edge of the door when you open it. The same door in 1-3/4" will be 3/64" tighter, and a 2-1/4" door will be 5/64" tighter. With a 3/32" margin this means your door will start rubbing with very little wear/sag, especially solid wood doors which will change with humidity.
A properly fit door has, at a minimum, a back-beveled leading/latch edge. The hinge side is also often beveled to give the proper hinge spread. This is increasingly important the thicker the door (eg 1-3/4", 2-1/4"). Otherwise, and how most cheapo pre-hung doors get away with it, you have overly large margins to allow the trailing edge of the door on the latch edge to clear the jamb as you open/close it. Using approximate math, a 2/6 (30") 1-3/8" door will be 1/32" tighter at the trailing edge of the door when you open it. The same door in 1-3/4" will be 3/64" tighter, and a 2-1/4" door will be 5/64" tighter. With a 3/32" margin this means your door will start rubbing with very little wear/sag, especially solid wood doors which will change with humidity.
A properly fit door has, at a minimum, a back-beveled leading/latch edge. The hinge side is also often beveled to give the proper hinge spread. This is increasingly important the thicker the door (eg 1-3/4", 2-1/4"). Otherwise, and how most cheapo pre-hung doors get away with it, you have overly large margins to allow the trailing edge of the door on the latch edge to clear the jamb as you open/close it. Using approximate math, a 2/6 (30") 1-3/8" door will be 1/32" tighter at the trailing edge of the door when you open it. The same door in 1-3/4" will be 3/64" tighter, and a 2-1/4" door will be 5/64" tighter. With a 3/32" margin this means your door will start rubbing with very little wear/sag, especially solid wood doors which will change with humidity.
And here I was thinking this was for replacing a door in an older home that has "settled" and the door+frame are no longer quite square. Instead of trying to fix the "out of square" frame that may be impossible, it's easier to make the door fit the hole.
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Yes, and it has a 90° fence for this. Not sure why you'd want to plane a surface out of square.
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not niche but specific tool. Super useful if you work doing doors.