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RIDGID 18V OCTANE Cordless Brushless 3-1/4" Hand Planer (Factory Blemished)

$107
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Direct Tools Factory Outlet has RIDGID 18-Volt OCTANE Cordless Brushless 3-1/4" Hand Planer (Factory Blemished, Tool Only R8481B) on sale for $99.99. Shipping is $7. Thanks nycab
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Offer valid while supplies last. Supplies may be limited. ~RevOne

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Edited April 1, 2020 at 03:22 PM by
Not a bad deal if you need one. $159 @ Home Depot

https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com...r/p/R8481B
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Created 03-22-2020 at 02:58 PM by nycab
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A properly fit door has, at a minimum, a back-beveled leading/latch edge. The hinge side is also often beveled to give the proper hinge spread. This is increasingly important the thicker the door (eg 1-3/4", 2-1/4"). Otherwise, and how most cheapo pre-hung doors get away with it, you have overly large margins to allow the trailing edge of the door on the latch edge to clear the jamb as you open/close it. Using approximate math, a 2/6 (30") 1-3/8" door will be 1/32" tighter at the trailing edge of the door when you open it. The same door in 1-3/4" will be 3/64" tighter, and a 2-1/4" door will be 5/64" tighter. With a 3/32" margin this means your door will start rubbing with very little wear/sag, especially solid wood doors which will change with humidity.
23 Helpful?
Whoa....did you invent doors?
11 Helpful?
Note that this is factory blemished but new. As such, it is eligible for Ridgid's LSA (lifetime service agreement). Most people report that the blemishes are very minor or non-existent.
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#3
Note that this is factory blemished but new. As such, it is eligible for Ridgid's LSA (lifetime service agreement). Most people report that the blemishes are very minor or non-existent.
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HIDDEN
03-22-2020 at 04:02 PM
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#5
Needs a fence that can bevel for doing doors.
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03-22-2020 at 05:30 PM
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#7
Quote from thisismatt
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Needs a fence that can bevel for doing doors.
What are you using a tool like this for on doors?
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Quote from baldwig
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What are you using a tool like this for on doors?
Many times when hanging a new door, the edge needs to be shaved because it's too tight. Of coarse this only works on wood doors.
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#9
Quote from SearchingDeals2
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Many times when hanging a new door, the edge needs to be shaved because it's too tight. Of coarse this only works on wood doors.
Yes, and it has a 90° fence for this. Not sure why you'd want to plane a surface out of square.
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Last edited by JYOSS March 23, 2020 at 04:16 AM.

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#10
Quote from JYOSS
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Good deal but this is one place where I need to cut myself off. Much more of a niche tool for the average DIYer.
not niche but specific tool. Super useful if you work doing doors.
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#11
Quote from bluetorch13
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not niche but specific tool. Super useful if you work doing doors.
Yeah, that's fair. I should've clarified that I have a cheaper corded one, but can't justify investing in one for the off-chance that I need to plane a door.
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Quote from baldwig
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What are you using a tool like this for on doors?
Quote from JYOSS
:
Yes, and it has a 90° fence for this. Not sure why you'd want to plane a surface out of square.
A properly fit door has, at a minimum, a back-beveled leading/latch edge. The hinge side is also often beveled to give the proper hinge spread. This is increasingly important the thicker the door (eg 1-3/4", 2-1/4"). Otherwise, and how most cheapo pre-hung doors get away with it, you have overly large margins to allow the trailing edge of the door on the latch edge to clear the jamb as you open/close it. Using approximate math, a 2/6 (30") 1-3/8" door will be 1/32" tighter at the trailing edge of the door when you open it. The same door in 1-3/4" will be 3/64" tighter, and a 2-1/4" door will be 5/64" tighter. With a 3/32" margin this means your door will start rubbing with very little wear/sag, especially solid wood doors which will change with humidity.
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#13
Quote from thisismatt
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A properly fit door has, at a minimum, a back-beveled leading/latch edge. The hinge side is also often beveled to give the proper hinge spread. This is increasingly important the thicker the door (eg 1-3/4", 2-1/4"). Otherwise, and how most cheapo pre-hung doors get away with it, you have overly large margins to allow the trailing edge of the door on the latch edge to clear the jamb as you open/close it. Using approximate math, a 2/6 (30") 1-3/8" door will be 1/32" tighter at the trailing edge of the door when you open it. The same door in 1-3/4" will be 3/64" tighter, and a 2-1/4" door will be 5/64" tighter. With a 3/32" margin this means your door will start rubbing with very little wear/sag, especially solid wood doors which will change with humidity.
Interesting - thanks for the info!
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#14
Quote from thisismatt
:
A properly fit door has, at a minimum, a back-beveled leading/latch edge. The hinge side is also often beveled to give the proper hinge spread. This is increasingly important the thicker the door (eg 1-3/4", 2-1/4"). Otherwise, and how most cheapo pre-hung doors get away with it, you have overly large margins to allow the trailing edge of the door on the latch edge to clear the jamb as you open/close it. Using approximate math, a 2/6 (30") 1-3/8" door will be 1/32" tighter at the trailing edge of the door when you open it. The same door in 1-3/4" will be 3/64" tighter, and a 2-1/4" door will be 5/64" tighter. With a 3/32" margin this means your door will start rubbing with very little wear/sag, especially solid wood doors which will change with humidity.
And here I was thinking this was for replacing a door in an older home that has "settled" and the door+frame are no longer quite square. Instead of trying to fix the "out of square" frame that may be impossible, it's easier to make the door fit the hole.
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Thank you! Been waiting for a deal like this for a while now.
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