Monoprice has
Monoprice 12" 150-Watt Powered Subwoofer (Black, 9723) on sale for
$94.99.
Shipping is free.
Thanks to community member
Be_Kind for finding this deal.
About this item:
- Amplifier Power Output: 150 Watts RMS, 200 Watts Peak
- Inputs: High Level (speaker), Line (RCA)
- Dimensions (HxWxD): 17.0" x 17.3" x 17.5"
- Includes a 1-year limited warranty
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anything can produce sub 20 Hz wave (heck, i can wave my hand and produce 20 Hz wave). what matters is how loud it can make the sound at what frequency.
reputable companies follow the industry standard, provide -3 db (half) value and/or -6 db (quarter) value.
here is the actual CE-2010 measurement listed on the site.
80Hz 121.6dB
63Hz 119.6dB
50Hz 115.6dB
40Hz 109.9dB
32 Hz104.3dB
25 Hz 98.2dB
20 Hz90.3dB
https://www.monoprice.c
and here is your sub woofer following the same CE-2010 measurement, based on https://hometheaterrevi
63 Hz: 114.2
50 Hz: 113.8
40 Hz: 107.0
32 Hz: 102.8
25 Hz: 87.4
20 Hz: NA
to put in human term, at 63Hz, this sub is twice as powerful as yours, at 32-50hz this sub is 60% more powerful, at 25 Hz this sub is 4 times more powerful than yours.
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IMHO this is a great deal at this price, 99.9% of folks looking for a HT sub in this price range would be very happy with this sub, and the .1% that expected more for $95 are delusional.
I have an Infinty R10 in my living room and this deal is very tempting to jump on as an A/B to install for my soon to be basement HT and I am happy with the R10 as it does what I am looking for given its size/specs.
Coupled to things like facts: a 12inch limpbizkit is going to be outperformed by a "smaller" sub due to build quality, amplifier quality and then of course performance. If you're a penny pincher then this becomes MORE of a factor.
Since I value the value in performance vs price...
"I" decide if paying $300 for 7hz in lower extension is worth it.
My dual subs hit 27hz (even lower at less db) = I am happy for the price I paid.
My Onkyo RZ830 sounds 90% of a $3,000 AVR. I'll live that I don't have 180wpc and other features that I can't hear the difference in that I paid only $499
Everything is relative.
Sure I could have purchased all separates...the best 100inch screen, best projector, best speakers...but then "I" wouldn't have had a house to put it all in.
If we're taking about "low and loud", show me subwoofer "A" that "outperforms" subwoofer "B" but yet displaces less air...
Displacement is cone diameter + cone excursion + port output (if equipped) ...unless there's something about the physics of sound pressure that I'm unaware of.
I left out power because more power means more excursion which means more air displacement which brings us back to "there's no replacement for displacement." Lol.
Pull the amp and sub, build your own box from MDF and mount them in there. Just remember that you want similar airspace and this probably has a port. It's built to sound good without being too large. Just look at car subwoofers, the boxes aren't all the same. Not getting into differences in ohms and wattage and speaker box design, you can do a lot with a basic concept. You could technically make a chair or ottoman to spec for volume and build these into it. Granted, putting a sub in a corner is better for acoustics and anything around it is going to deaden the sound, but pick up a plate amplifier and a sub from Parts Express and you can have car stereo sound in your living room.
I wired a pair of 12" Kicker L7s in my bedroom for the fun of it and shook the hell out of the apartment. I'm waiting for someone to check me on sound quality. This wasn't a full-time thing, but I did use the 10" L7 most of the time, and I was happy with it.
Here I'm testing the 12" L7s, the 10" L7 is in the corner under the fan in a black painted MDF box. I also have some other crazy huge MTX subwoofer I was testing to see if it actually worked for the $50 I paid for it.
A better idea of the plate amplifier I bought used in 2003, mounted in a cheap sub box with a carry handle pushing a 10" MTX Thunder 4000 until it finally blew. The box was designed for a 10" JBL GTi back in 2004, but I've had 3 other subs in it until I cut it for the 10" L7 in 2007.
If your computer speakers have a built-in amplifier, then it's technically possible. Usually subs this cheap don't have an RCA passthrough, so I didn't think it was possible, but I'll take a look. Just be careful with the gain and distortion from the 3.5mm jack going into a line-level input. I'd almost say go with a line output converter, but that's not really cost effective here. You would probably be better off with any type of stereo with an aux input that has speaker wire and tap into the speaker level inputs on the sub amplifier.
(I couldn't read your response before the quote reply.)
It sounds like it could work, but again, I'm skeptical about if your setup would be worth it. If you don't mind messing around with it, go for it. But if you're trying to use $20 Logitech speakers, I wouldn't bother, but it's your money.
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Some are more musical/responsive than others.
Its a $100 sub. Personally, I'd buy Polk. Some people will buy this. If Wirecutter says its good, who am I to argue.
Displacement is cone diameter + cone excursion + port output (if equipped) ...unless there's something about the physics of sound pressure that I'm unaware of.
I left out power because more power means more excursion which means more air displacement which brings us back to "there's no replacement for displacement." Lol.
Prove your theory
https://www.google.com/amp/s/www....oofer/amp/ [google.com]
I have 2 Daytons that have worked well for years
https://www.parts-express.com/Day...quantity=
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