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Undervolting is locked out of most 10th gen CPUs, but MSI allows it. You need to enable it in the bios, and then use Throttlestop. Ryzen processors can't be undervolted.
4th time I've linked in this thread? https://www.techpowerup
I'd never done anything like this before. It wasn't hard.
Plus MSI BIOS allows undervolting and ASUS locked this in the July BIOS upgrade.
What ASUS does have in its favor is ability to set Nvidia GPU as the primary card, which adds another 2% to performance. MSI only has Optimus, which means video signal to laptop display always goes through Intel GPU even if Nvidia is running the show.
I'd say if you want raw graphics power, go with ASUS, no question. But if you want a better overall laptop, MSI GE75 Costco deal is the winner.
Screen - My biggest question is still how many nits does this goes up to. In store, it definitely felt more than 300 (my current laptop is around 250 nits, and I could tell this one was way brighter). Matte display on this was perfect to drown out the harsh factory lights in costco. Resolution of 1080p was fine, but I really wish it was 1440p. I have pretty good eye sight, and the text and icons felt a little too big for me (yes, I set the scaling to 100% on the demo unit). There were some stock pictures in the "photos" app that I looked at, and to be honest, colors looked pretty damn good, ESPECIALLY for viewing inside a damn harsh lit giant warehouse.Couldn't tell if there's backlight bleed on the demo unit, since you know, I can't request my costco to turn all lights off in the entire warehouse lol. I couldn't quite figure out how to view the LCD panel model number to google it once I got home (I tried device manager but couldn't see a specific model).
Keyboard - pretty cool seeing the RGB in person. The demo unit wasn't allowed to open dragon center (I clicked the icon, wouldn't open), so I couldn't really play around with colors too much (other than the HARDWARE button on top right of keyboard that flips a couple color modes). Windows key on the right of the space bar kept throwing me off, just muscle memory for me to click it on the left. This was a major annoyance for me honestly. Keys actually felt good IMO, travel was very nice. Font is a little "gamery". Yes, I toggled the hardware "max fan" button while playing with the demo unit, had to rev up that engine lol
Touchpad - Actually not bad, I was very surprised. I kept reading it's plastic (which it is), but it felt way smoother than my plastic Dell Inspiron one. Pretty smooth gliding, even on a germ infested demo unit that probably has been used and abused by people at Costco walking around eating the chicken bake rolls. Red accent around the touchpad is kind of wack, but in terms of touchpad, I was pleased. Physical keys under touchpad felt firm, solid clicking (unlike my dell latitude from work that's soft and mushy).
Build - Deff a tank IMO. Not extremely "T H I C C", but deff aint a macbook. Felt very solid, especially when closed. It's quite heavy (I tried picking the demo unit up as much as it would allow with the security wire), and I could deff tell it's hefty. Granted, you guys are all aware of this... Physical size isn't what I'd consider the standard, giant 17 inch laptop. It actually appeared a little bigger than a 15 inch laptop, but not a "17 inch laptop" so that was nice.
Hinges - I actually enjoyed the "stiff" feel of the hinge when opening and closing the laptop, it made the laptop feel sturdier to me. Don't know if that's squeezing the crap out of the LCD display or not, but the hinges being this "stiff" felt GOOD to me.
OS "Snappiness" - Moot point, since this demo unit was literally tied to a demo setting where I couldn't even open dragon center. Also, I looked at task manager, it has been on for over 10 days straight... Plus, since it's not on wifi, I guarantee you it wasn't up to date with latest drivers AND windows updates. Kind of a shame really, I hate seeing this type of beastly hardware neglected like that. There was some constant demo playing on the laptop, that when I viewed task manager, was literally using the cpu at 45%.
Overall feel - I didn't pull the trigger, but it's very tempting. I did confirm there's a "tamper seal" on the bottom of the laptop over a screw, so that's still something I'm concerned about (updating hardware aka breaking the seal, and god forbid having to return for a different issue and being given a hard time since you "opened" it). This would be my first "gamery" laptop, so I understand what comes with that. You can't expect macbook thinness and tolerance (tight seems, fit and finish), but I can't imagine how beastly this would be if you actually buy it, do all windows and driver updates, and even upgrade the RAM and SSD. Overall 5-10 minute demo in store, I'd say 4 out of 5 stars. Leaving out a star since I still don't know how the brightness and color of the display is in a normal bedroom setting and not a giant warehouse show floor.
3000 series cards have an optional feature whereby they can boost to a higher power level if the CPU demand is low. For instance the max on a 3060 is 115W-130W, where that extra 15W is the extra boost.
When RTX 2060 115 watts is used as a base (100%) for comparison:
3060@75 W = 100% (inserted by RussianBytes for MSI "GF75 Thin Gaming Laptop" RTX 3060 GPU for $1300 at COSTCO)
3060@90 W = 105% (75 Base Watts+15 watts boost, (inserted by RussianBytes MSI "GF75 Thin Gaming Laptop" RTX 3060 GPU, $1300 COSTCO)
2070@115W= 110% (inserted by RussianBytes for MSI "GE75 Gaming Laptop" RTX 2070 for $1,200 at COSTCO)
2060@115 watts AND further undervolting and overclocking: 110%
3070@ 90W = 115% (per joon82)
2070S@115W= 120% ("S" stands for the "SUPER" version of the RTX 2070)
I also found this site that compares GPUs with TDP power. But they left out the lower powered 60w and 80w RTX 3060. I'm guessing they could range to anything between a RTX 2060 90w and RTX 2070, depending on a specific game/resolution, & benchmarks.