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DuctlessAire 12 Seer 12000 BTU 220V 1-Ton Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner EXPIRED

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Home Depot has DuctlessAire 12 Seer 12000 BTU 220V 1-Ton Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner & Heat Pump Variable Speed Inverter w/ WiFi (DA1221-H2) for $779. Shipping is free.

Thanks to community member david3808 for finding this deal.

Included:
  • Copper tubing w/ insulation and nuts
  • Control wire
  • 6' drain hose
  • Wall sleeve
  • Wall sleeve cover and tape
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Edited May 22, 2021 at 05:15 PM by
Rated 4.9 out of 5 stars on Home Depot (931 reviews)
Pre-charged condenser for the DIYers

2 part installation video.
part 1: https://youtu.be/iFBmh29GezU
part 2: https://youtu.be/Uh9bcdpU8gw

part 2 walks you through checking lines for leaks and vacuuming:
https://youtu.be/Uh9bcdpU8gw?t=516

Installation Manual - page 29 has the Air Evacuation instructions:
https://ductlessaire.com/wp-conte...lation.pdf

15% to 28% off
$697 - 21 SEER 9, 000 BTU 0.75 Ton Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner with Heat Pump - 230-Volt/60 Hz OOS
$779 - 21 SEER 12,000 BTU 1 Ton Wi-Fi Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner and Heat Pump Variable Speed Inverter - 220V/60Hz
$999 - 19 SEER 24000 BTU 2 Ton Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner with Heat Pump Variable Speed Inverter - 220-Volt
$1019 - 21 SEER 18,000 BTU 1.5 Ton Wi-Fi Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner and Heat Pump Variable Speed Inverter - 220V/60Hz
$1199 - 21 SEER 24,000 BTU Wi-Fi Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner and Heat Pump Variable Speed Inverter - 220V/60Hz

https://www.homedepot.com/Special...uyOfTheDay
  • 21.5 SEER rating ENERGY STAR certified: estimated national average annual operating cooling cost is 70 USD based on AHRI certificate #9150138
  • Package includes: stylishly designed interior white wall-mount air handler with LED display; exterior pre-charged condenser with special golden anti-corrosive coating coils; wireless remote control for customizable airflow and temperature adjustment; 25 ft. complete kit
  • 25 ft. kit includes: copper tubing with insulation and nuts, control wire, 6 ft. drain hose, wall sleeve, wall sleeve cover and tape
  • Electroplated coils: the electroplated hydrophilic coils improve heating efficiency by accelerating the defrosting process; the unique anti-corrosive coating on the coils also aids in withstanding the effects of salty air, rain and other corrosive elements by allowing contaminated water on the coils to run off more quickly, reducing the corrosive effect to the coils; heat exchange performance is much longer lasting
  • Low ambient operation: a special built-in low ambient kit can be used in temperatures as low as 5°F for cooling operation, useful for users who need to maintain cooling during winter
  • Refrigerant leak detection: with this new technology, the system will alarm when a refrigerant leak is detected
  • Dual sensor fixed or remote: by switching to remote sensor and keeping the remote close to you, you tell the air conditioner to set the temperature from wherever the remote happens to be, this counteracts the tendency for the air conditioner to stop cooling or heating because the air around the unit has reached its set temperature (switches off after period of inactivity to preserve battery life)
  • HEPA filter included (1): a HEPA filter is a type of mechanical air filter; it works by forcing air through a fine mesh that traps harmful particles such as pollen, pet dander, dust mites and tobacco smoke
  • 2-direction air vane technology: in cooling mode the air vane opens counterclockwise to direct air horizontally, allowing for an even cooling effect; in heating mode the air vane opens clockwise, directing air downward, this time for a uniform heating effect
  • Built-in electronic diagnostic: monitoring some abnormal operations or parts failures, microcomputer of the air conditioner will switch off and protect the system automatically; meanwhile, the error or protection code will be displayed on the indoor unit
  • Outdoor pan heater: a heating belt is fitted on the base plate of the outdoor unit to avoid accumulation of rain, snow or water on the base plate
  • Dual washable filters: a good air conditioner should not only take care of the temperature in your home but also the quality of the air you breathe; the system aids in removing most of the pollen dust, smoke and other microscopic airborne particles that by latest thinking contribute to respiratory problems like asthma and hay fever
  • Self-cleaning: by pressing clean on the remote control, it automatically cleans the evaporator to aid in reducing buildup of bacteria and keeps the air fresh
  • Sleep mode: in sleep mode, the unit automatically decreases the heating or increases the cooling by 1° per hour for the first 2 hours of use, then holds the temperature steady for 5 hours before ceasing
  • Low noise airflow system: without decreasing the airflow volume and capacity output, the large-diameter cross flow fan can bring down the indoor unit noise level by lowering the fan speed
  • Anti-cold draft: if the unit is turned on in heat mode when the ambient temperature is low, it will warm up prior to fan operation to prevent cold air in heating mode
  • Louver position memory: the set louver position is stored in memory by the microcomputer and the louver returns to the stored position when the next operation is performed
  • Turbo mode: this function enables the unit to reach the preset temperature in the shortest time
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Deal
Score
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$779
Questions & Answers BETA
Balayya_Fan asked this question on 05-24-2021 at 10:17 AM
05-24-2021 at 10:17 AM
Taking a quick stab:

Pros-
No duct work is obvious.
On demand which can save heating/cooling bill.
More precise temperature control "zones".

Cons-
The zones play as double edge sword, when moving in or out the heated/air conditioned space takes some getting used to.
The indoor unit hangs on the wall compare to just a register, so the wall is more or less occupied.
Have to run additional electricity to both in door and outdoor units and the tubes from the indoor unit to the outdoor unit.
More filters to clean.
05-24-2021 at 10:17 AM
I'm not aware of any. I have two (different brand) installed in my basement. Just need to ensure there's a way to route power and refrigerant between indoor and outdoor units. And of course you need to be able to run a condensate line from the indoor unit to a drain.

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#106
Quote from leovip :
This is illegal. Do not listen to this person. You must run the unit directly connected to the electrical panel and by law it must not share a circuit. Trust me I tried about 10 companies to get them to install otherwise and none would do it at any price.
It's not flat-out illegal, this is a case where "it depends". You can use the main breaker as a feeder circuit and split the circuit down the line to serve both units IF and ONLY IF the breaker has the capacity to serve both of the units AND you properly fuse the disconnects for the downstream units.
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#107
Quote from slipknottin :
There are no "USA made systems". There are systems rebranded and sold by US companies… but that's not the same thing. Most of these units are just rebranded Midea units. (Midea will do custom units with whatever branding/logos you want on them if you buy a large enough quantity)
Midea is not manufacturing Dakin with Amana, Goodman, Modine, Trane/Mitsubishi, Carrier, Rheem, Lennox, American Standard, etc. There are plenty of USA manufactures of air conditioning, heating and now ductless systems....

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#108
Quote from ToolDeals :
Midea is not manufacturing Dakin with Amana, Goodman, Modine, Trane/Mitsubishi, Carrier, Rheem, Lennox, American Standard, etc. There are plenty of USA manufactures of air conditioning, heating and now ductless systems....
Most of the VFD ductless units use china-made parts which is think is what he's getting at. Some of the high end Dakin are made in Texas and they make Carrier's high-end units if I recall correctly. But I believe compressors and misc parts are still sourced from overseas.
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#109
Quote from swechsler :
Most A/C companies won't want to get involved in installing customer-purchased equipment. HVAC is a very closed industry, and unless you can find a pro who's willing to do some side work, you're probably not going to save that much vs. purchasing the system directly from the installer; in addition, you'll get a warranty for the installation, for whatever that's worth. I do see that Home Depot offers a referral service for installation of this A/C, so that might be a better bet than just calling A/C installers at random.
100% and I honestly can't blame independent HVAC guys from being afraid of touching random no-name brands they don't know anything about.

Quote from maxan :
Found this on Costco.. a portable split 10k BTU system that takes 115v. The downside is that it's only 8 SEER and the review doesn't seem stellar. On the plus side, it is portable, and has a Costco warranty so if it doesn't work out, the cost to uninstall it and return to Costco is fairly minimal.
https://www.costco.com/forestair-...55013.html [costco.com]
Costco has the MRCOOL 12k DIY Mini split too but I believe it's still out of stock. They sell it for $1099 but it's 22 SEER which is pretty good.
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#110
Quote from nebody00 :
lol the Mitsubishi Diamond dealer was quoting 30-50k for a whole house mini split system. Just one 9000 BTU unit installed would cost $7500 in a sun room.

Was recently quoted for a Quad mini split install for $8k, I would need to buy the system and copper/electrical lines. They were going to mount the mini splits with the condensate/copper/electrical going through the attic. I decided not to do it since the guy was not licensed but he did multiple installs.
Yes I've seen crazy numbers for the Mitsubishi. I ran the numbers and realized I can install 3-4x of the cheaper units which have the same efficiency and VFD compressors for the cost of 1 single Mitsubishi unit, not even installed. So I went with the cheaper unit.
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#111
Quote from Deal Hound :
The warranty [thdstatic.com] on this unit is next to worthless. If I were buying this, I would just assume there is no warranty. Also, Home Depot doesn't let you return major appliances [homedepot.com], so caveat emptor big time. [Edit: As luddite_cyborg pointed out below, Home Depot's product page says these can actually be returned for 90 days.]

The warranty stipulates the unit must be installed by a licensed HVAC company. It also says defective components must be returned, and the owner is responsible for all shipping costs. It doesn't include labor at all, which is likely to be the majority of the cost of a repair done by a contractor. They know the shipping costs both ways and the time waiting for them to receive the defective part and ship the new one are enough to discourage most people from making a warranty claim.

I'm not a lawyer, but I don't think it's legal under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act to specify who can install the equipment. According to the FTC [ftc.gov], "...companies can't void a consumer's warranty or deny warranty coverage solely because the consumer uses a part made by someone else or gets someone not authorized by the company to perform service on the product."
Correct. Once I had a car dealership try to tell me that the tech service bulletin axel issues on my car was due to lowering springs. This was clearly BS and as soon as I mentioned the Magnuson-Moss act and said that I have a family member who works for a rather large and powerful law firm they suddenly were handing me keys to a loaner car and my car was getting fixed. Dishonest companies will try to pull one over on you if they think you're unaware of how things really work.

But I think it's a good rule of thumb to expect minimal support on these China units, and even if you get the parts replaced under warranty then you're going to spend more to have a HVAC guy recover the refrigerant, braze in the replacement, and charge the system than it'd cost to buy a new unit. But still you can probably replace the condenser unit multiple times and end up having lower costs than a lot of name-brand installations done by pros.
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Last edited by PlanetoftheMapes May 22, 2021 at 10:44 PM.
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#112
I can see it now, a whole bunch of novices venting refrigerant into the atmosphere; either not knowing that it is illegal to do this, or getting huge fines and claiming ignorance. If you don't know what you are doing, please stick to working on cars or something.
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#113
Quote from Deal Hound :
I'm intrigued by the prospect of ordering something like this directly from China. I've looked at stuff on the sites you mentioned before, but I've always been too intimidated to bite. I figure I'd get screwed somehow or get into some kind of customs snafu. I've only ordered small, inexpensive stuff on eBay and AliExpress directly from China (with very few problems). Have you ever ordered anything big like this from China? I'd like to hear your experience if so.

Something like this [globalsources.com] would be a good deal if shipping is reasonable. Supposedly, you can buy one as a sample for $180. I'm curious how much shipping would actually be to my door.

I'm pretty skeptical to be honest. It seems way too good to be true. I bet shipping for a single unit would be several hundred dollars. But I'd like to be wrong.
Depends on how fast you want it.... DHL is pretty quick and reasonable. Since we don't normally purchase a container full, we rent space on a container, which takes about a month or so. Just request a quote FOB your address from a couple of places. We also use Alibaba and others. China is highly competitive within the country.

It is was easy, as in like buying from Amazon, everyone would be doing it.

But, you could fill up a 40' HQ and have it delivered from China to say, Chicago for about $3500 before dock fees and insurance. Are you ready to go into the ductless split system business? Smilie ... there is some fine tuning to do with logistics and shipping, such as paperwork, insurance, at the dock on time, etc. that you don't want to screw up and at some point, you are an importer with government regulations. tariffs, etc.
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#114
Quote from Coffae :
I can see it now, a whole bunch of novices venting refrigerant into the atmosphere; either not knowing that it is illegal to do this, or getting huge fines and claiming ignorance. If you don't know what you are doing, please stick to working on cars or something.
This shouldn't happen unless things have gone horribly, horribly wrong. But yeah if you screw it up you're going to either need to call a pro or go and get your EPA 608 cert and buy the recovery tools. If you follow the instructions you should be fine, but watch plenty of youtube videos and don't attempt this if you're not pretty damn handy.
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#115
Quote from PlanetoftheMapes :
This shouldn't happen unless things have gone horribly, horribly wrong. But yeah if you screw it up you're going to either need to call a pro or go and get your EPA 608 cert and buy the recovery tools. If you follow the instructions you should be fine, but watch plenty of youtube videos and don't attempt this if you're not pretty damn handy.
What shouldn't happen? No schrader valve, frost bitten hands, it is very easy to vent refrigerant.
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#116
Quote from Coffae :
What shouldn't happen? No schrader valve, frost bitten hands, it is very easy to vent refrigerant.
I don't believe I recall seeing the EPA require Schrader valve removal tools to prevent the slight transient leak when removing the service lines from these units. If I'm wrong, please cite where the EPA states this. I did it for my install but it's not required AFAIK.

If that isn't required by the EPA, then you're coming across as a salty HVAC tech who hates seeing people DIY this kind of thing. Bad news is that this is a deals forum so people here aren't in the market to pay $2k in labor for a few hours of work.
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#117
Quote from PlanetoftheMapes :
I bought a 2-head Senville 22 SER unit last month and came to the conclusion it makes sense to install it myself versus paying an installer. I too am in Los Angeles.

This works if you're handy since you'll probably do a better job. Doing things like a nitrogen pressure test, which aren't stated in the manual, is a good practice that many installers will skip unless it's explicitly stated in the manual like in some Mitsubishi units. This practice makes sense for heat pump R410A units which will see upwards of 450 psi on the head when in heat pump mode. But expect to spend $500-$700 on tools if you want to do it right.

Edit: if you want me to comment more on the tools I went with, let me know.
Edit Edit: As promised, I posted my tools breakdown reply on #99 of this thread, but I'm also going to post it below too. If this angers the mods then please remove post #99.



Everyone can decide what you need for your install versus others, but here's the tools that I bought for mine:


Nitrogen Tank w/ Regulator (got on Craigslist)1 $ 100.00
Appion CTEE14 MegaSeal Low-Loss Charging T-Fitting - 1/4'1 $ 49.94
Appion MGAVCR Mega Flow Vacuum Rated Valve Core Removal Tool – 5/16" System Connection1 $ 48.48

CPS VG200: Vacuum Micron Gauge with Digital LCD Display1 $ 146.21
Refrigeration Technologies RT201B Nylog Gasket/Thread Sealant1 $ 10.25
Yellow Jacket 42004 Series 41 Manifold with 3-1/8" Gauge, psi, R-22/404A/410A1 $ 112.29
Yellow Jacket 19173 R-410 5/16" to 1/4" coupler w/ schrader valve.1 $ 14.26
CPS Pro-Set R410A Flare Gauge1 $ 19.81
CPS BLACKMAX BFT850 Ultra-Lightweight R-410A Clutch-Type Ecentric Flaring Tool1 $ 130.03
Reed Tool DEBO Pencil Shape Deburring Tool for Copper1$11.68
RIDGID 32975 Model 103 Close Quarters Tubing Cutter, 1/8-inch to 5/8-inch Tube Cutter , Silver , Small1$12.67

Johnsen's 6915 Vacuum Pump Oil - 12 oz.1 $ 9.79
PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE 3 CFM Two Stage Vacuum Pump1 $ 149.99
PITTSBURGH 3/8 In. Metric Crowfoot Wrench Set, 7 Pc.1 $ 9.99

For mine, it was a total of $825-ish, with it being more like $900 after tax. But I bought multiple things that most people don't need to buy, marked in italics, so you can save a lot of money skipping these. These optional tools represent an additional $372.61 ($400.55 after tax, at least where I live) you can eliminate about 50% from the tools budget.

First and foremost, don't attempt to work with electrical or HVAC unless you're pretty comfortable with DIY projects.

The Nitrogen tank is optional for pressure testing. Some say if you can pull a good vacuum and let it sit for a while that is "good enough" and most company's instructions exclude this from the installation instructions. But it's worth considering because when running R-410A in heat pump mode, you'll get high pressure across your head side of the loop. This makes sense because the high-pressure side = heat. So in my head it made sense you'd want to do a pressurization test and a vacuum down test, since one is pushing apart the fittings (pressure) and the other is sucking them together (vacuum). Since the fittings will all be exposed to both types of pressures it makes sense for me. Follow Dakine or Mitsubishi installation manual instructions for nitrogen pressure testing if you opt to do it. Note that most professional installers WILL SKIP THIS unless it's a unit that requires it (think Mitsubishi) and the installer is one of their "diamond" approved installers or whatever.

Secondly, I bought a flaring tool because I had a 2-head system and cut the tubing to fit the installation and make it more tidy. This is optional and I do not recommend it unless you know what you're doing. It also saves money to skip this. Before cutting, you need to make sure your run or runs have the required length to prevent overcharging the system. If you have a single head unit and end up cutting the tubes to 1/2 the length you may have too much refrigerant in the linesets. Refer to your manual or talk to the company before you decide to do this. And if you decide to do it anyways, yes it must be a HVAC specific flaring tool. Get one with the clutch system to prevent overtightening the flare press and make it foolproof. R-410A runs at too high of pressures to get away with subpar flares. Deciding to just accept the standard length of the copper tubing eliminates the costs associated with the Flaring tool, flaring gauge, deburring tool, and pipe cutting tool.

As for the rest, you do not NEED a digital micron gauge, many just use their normal gauge set's low pressure side gage and watch to see if the needle moves. This will also work. Again I wanted to go with professional duty equipment to get an install I'm 100% confident in. That way if the thing dies in a few years I won't have wonder in the back of my mind whether I screwed up the install. I know 100% my install was perfect. I went with the Yellow Jacket brand gauges, although you could in theory just get the low side gauge, hose, and valve if you're just pulling vacuum and save some money. I'm sure the garden variety chinesium brand gauges are probably perfectly fine for a solo install and will cut the cost in half for them.

The Appion Schrader core removal tool and the t-valve are totally optional too. You'd have to do some youtubing to see how they're used, but here's a great video which shows essentially the same setup I bought: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81EeY7SFYJc

But you can skip those tools and just use the Yellow Jacket 5/16" to 1/4" adapter and be just fine without them. Your pressure drawdown will just take a bit longer since you're going through the Schrader valve, and you'll loose a tiny bit of refrigerant before the schrader valve closes. Skipping these tools will save you $130-$140.

For the vacuum pump I went with a harbor freight 3CFM rated 2-stage vacuum pump. I believe it's rated for sub-30 microns of vacuum which is great, and a review on their site showed a guy pulling 13 microns if I recall correctly. To put this into perspective most manufacturers suggest pulling below 500 microns before charging the system. This is slightly overkill but it works for me.

Lastly I already have a torque wrench but you can get them dirt cheap from harbor freight, and I bought some crowfoot wrenches to use with my torque wrench to torque the bolts to the manufacturer's specifications. Will it really matter if you don't do it to spec? I don't know but I'm not finding out.

Then beyond all of this you'll have to run some 220-240v and have a disconnect box by your run. If you're not a confident DIY'er don't go for this, but if you are then just watch plenty of videos of installations, follow the instructions, and you'll be fine.
I like your tool list and other recommendations. Those tools will pay for themselves after one installation and continue saving you money on future work. Someone could add a small oxy-acetylene torch kit, a recovery machine, and a few other small things to that tool collection and have everything they need to tackle most any home HVAC job for another $1,000 or so. That goes to show you that you can kick your expensive HVAC contractor to the curb with about $2,000 in tools, some knowledge, and an EPA certification.

You torque flare nuts the same way I do. One tip people might find useful is to torque the nut with the crowfoot wrench at a right angle to the torque wrench handle so you don't have to worry about any corrections. Case 3 here [scuba-clinic-tools.com] illustrates what I mean.

I agree with you that a micron gauge isn't absolutely necessary for a single DIY job like this. One thing people can do, though, to help ensure a good evacuation without a micron gauge is to do a triple evacuation [achrnews.com]. Triple evacuations aren't done much anymore with the availability of inexpensive digital micron gauges that indicate with certainty when a deep vacuum has been achieved, but that's how evacuation used to be done in pre-micron gauge times.

About flaring tools, I can't say enough good things about these generic $20 eccentric flaring tools [ebay.com]. Maybe the cheap ones are somehow not as good as the $100 ones, but the one I have works brilliantly. It even has the clutch you mentioned. It's definitely more than adequate for occasional DIY work. Inexpensive flaring drill bits [ebay.com] have also become available and are capable of producing good flares, although they do require a fairly powerful drill (corded or at least 18V if battery operated) that can run at 1,800 RPM. Flaring drill bits also get the tubing very hot, so protecting your hands with suitable gloves is a must. Copper debris can also be an issue with flaring drill bits, so you have to make sure it doesn't fall down into the tubing.
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#118
Quote from ToolDeals :
Depends on how fast you want it.... DHL is pretty quick and reasonable. Since we don't normally purchase a container full, we rent space on a container, which takes about a month or so. Just request a quote FOB your address from a couple of places. We also use Alibaba and others. China is highly competitive within the country.

It is was easy, as in like buying from Amazon, everyone would be doing it.

But, you could fill up a 40' HQ and have it delivered from China to say, Chicago for about $3500 before dock fees and insurance. Are you ready to go into the ductless split system business? https://static.slickdealscdn.com/ima...lies/smile.gif ... there is some fine tuning to do with logistics and shipping, such as paperwork, insurance, at the dock on time, etc. that you don't want to screw up and at some point, you are an importer with government regulations. tariffs, etc.
Thanks for the info! I'd certainly be willing to wait even 2 or 3 months to get something like a mini split system at 1/2 or 1/3 of the retail price.
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#119
Quote from PlanetoftheMapes :
Most of the VFD ductless units use china-made parts which is think is what he's getting at. Some of the high end Dakin are made in Texas and they make Carrier's high-end units if I recall correctly. But I believe compressors and misc parts are still sourced from overseas.
Subject to change, Daiken and Amana are joint, Trane and Mitsubishi are joint, etc. The point in my response was that there are plenty of made in the USA manufacturers that do not outsource to China. In fact, Japan's compressor technology is at the forefront that most are using and is typical, China poorly copied.

And if you check, most of the US manufactures have entered the residential ductless units, while most have manufactured the commercial units used in hotels and motels. If you want a unit that holds up and don't mind it on the floor, those commercial hotel units last forever. I suppose you could mount it higher if you had a trim piece for the bottom, whereas I have seen hundreds of them in warehouses that were removed prior to demolition.
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#120
Quote from PlanetoftheMapes :
Correct. Once I had a car dealership try to tell me that the tech service bulletin axel issues on my car was due to lowering springs. This was clearly BS and as soon as I mentioned the Magnuson-Moss act and said that I have a family member who works for a rather large and powerful law firm they suddenly were handing me keys to a loaner car and my car was getting fixed. Dishonest companies will try to pull one over on you if they think you're unaware of how things really work.

But I think it's a good rule of thumb to expect minimal support on these China units, and even if you get the parts replaced under warranty then you're going to spend more to have a HVAC guy recover the refrigerant, braze in the replacement, and charge the system than it'd cost to buy a new unit. But still you can probably replace the condenser unit multiple times and end up having lower costs than a lot of name-brand installations done by pros.
It really irritates me how companies use warranties to entice people to buy their products and then try to make sure claiming the warranty is impossible or uneconomical. It's so bad that warranties rarely even factor into my purchasing decisions. I usually just assume they're worthless.

Absolutely on the manufacturer's support. The same thing goes for conventional split systems, too. You can buy two or three complete systems shipped to your door for the price a contractor charges for one installed. The warranties on systems installed by contractors are pretty disappointing too. I think most people would be shocked by how much warranty work costs after the contractor's typical one-year labor warranty expires.
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