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LONGER LK1 FDM 3D Printer - Huge Build Size 300x300x400mm - $160 Shipped, FS, NT at Longer 3D
$160.00
$199.99
Use code at checkout: 3ZDYVV78M4ZZ
This is definitely the next, "upgrade" once you've gotten to know the intimate hobby of FDM printing ....but it also is the largest 3D printer you can buy for this price, making it definitely great as a first 3D printer as well.
Ender 3 Pro/V2, Aquila, Neptune all have a build area of 220x220x250mm
This LK1 is 300x300x400mm! The control box is a touch screen and not the scroll wheel the others have. It does include a filament sensor as well.
I haven't modified this and do not know the innards exactly compared to an Ender 3, but I do know it works with OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pi. So there is a quality of life upgrade path here.
Happy Printing!
https://www.longer3d.co
This is definitely the next, "upgrade" once you've gotten to know the intimate hobby of FDM printing ....but it also is the largest 3D printer you can buy for this price, making it definitely great as a first 3D printer as well.
Ender 3 Pro/V2, Aquila, Neptune all have a build area of 220x220x250mm
This LK1 is 300x300x400mm! The control box is a touch screen and not the scroll wheel the others have. It does include a filament sensor as well.
I haven't modified this and do not know the innards exactly compared to an Ender 3, but I do know it works with OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pi. So there is a quality of life upgrade path here.
Happy Printing!
https://www.longer3d.co
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank waehrik
That's a decent point. The size of this doesn't fit in my office and is relegated to the garage where I didn't care. So it is definitely something to think about.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank waehrik
Otherwise it seems like a very solid printer, the noise concern is just something to keep in mind for some. I'm running an Ender 3V2 and CR10 V3 and was fortunate enough to hear an Ender 3V1 before making that first purchase. The non-silent steppers are insanely loud!
For anyone considering this, also keep in mind that this doesn't have dual Z motors. If you're printing lots of large XY prints on the big bed that's unlikely to be a problem. But if you plan on using all of that 400mm of Z height the accuracy benefit of dual-Z may come in handy. The CR-10 S,V2,V3 all have the dual Z and they can be found as refurbs for around $100 more. They also have those triangular supports for better Z stability.
But again, for big relatively low prints in a sound isolated area this is an insanely good deal.
For anyone considering this, also keep in mind that this doesn't have dual Z motors. If you're printing lots of large XY prints on the big bed that's unlikely to be a problem. But if you plan on using all of that 400mm of Z height the accuracy benefit of dual-Z may come in handy. The CR-10 S,V2,V3 all have the dual Z and they can be found as refurbs for around $100 more. They also have those triangular supports for better Z stability.
But again, for big relatively low prints in a sound isolated area this is an insanely good deal.
How bad is this by not having dual z motors?
Unfortunately I can only say it depends. Plenty of printers get away with only having a single z-axis motor but it does mean that as the bed gets larger the arm ends up having an increased opportunity of twisting slightly due to the very wide span. The roller type bearings on this type of printer (same as the Ender series) aren't very effective at eliminating twist. It's not a problem on the x or y Access because the loading is consistent across the entire access so any deflection is essentially calibrated out. On the Z however as the printhead moves back and forth on the x-axis the loading changes and you can end up with deflection on the far side. Again this is likely to only be a potential problem if you're printing very large and very tall where the deflection will end up compounding. If you buy this for the large size capability but typically end up making smaller 220mm Prince that would normally even fit on an under three, you should be fine. The larger bed here will even help with thermal stability on smaller prints because it means you're keeping away from the edges where heating is never going to be as consistent due to surrounding airflow.
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank AkujunkanX
1) Imprecise build-up and calibration. Dual motors can make you get by without having to be perfect when put together. Stuff like the offset roller not being perfectly calibrated would usually mean one side sags - dual motors can help alleviate that imperfection from affecting prints.
Solution: Take your time putting it together meticulously, you shouldn't need to worry about having only one motor.
2) Heavy hot-end. Usually attributed to direct drive filament conversion. No need to worry about that here in stock form.
3) You want faster prints and need to minimize as much erroneous movement as possible for delicate details.
Solution: If your prints are failing continuously near the end when the Z axis is at it's highest, you can usually solve this by make the print speed slower.
None of this is to conflict what waehrik has stated. Accurate info all around. These are just reasons for still being a good machine - though obviously some slight hurdles for being a basic printer.
1) Imprecise build-up and calibration. Dual motors can make you get by without having to be perfect when put together. Stuff like the offset roller not being perfectly calibrated would usually mean one side sags - dual motors can help alleviate that imperfection from affecting prints.
Solution: Take your time putting it together meticulously, you shouldn't need to worry about having only one motor.
2) Heavy hot-end. Usually attributed to direct drive filament conversion. No need to worry about that here in stock form.
3) You want faster prints and need to minimize as much erroneous movement as possible for delicate details.
Solution: If your prints are failing continuously near the end when the Z axis is at it's highest, you can usually solve this by make the print speed slower.
None of this is to conflict what waehrik has stated. Accurate info all around. These are just reasons for still being a good machine - though obviously some slight hurdles for being a basic printer.
I love the maker community