Home Depot has Pioneer Low-Ambient 12,000 BTU 1 Ton 19 SEER Ductless Mini Split Wall Mounted Inverter Air Conditioner with Heat Pump on sale for $614.40. Shipping is free.
Thanks community member n74740 for sharing this deal
Features:
Cooling capacity: 12,000 BTU/hour with 19.0 SEER efficiency
Heating capacity: 12,500 BTU/H with 9.5 HSPF efficiency
This collaborative space allows users to contribute additional information, tips, and insights to enhance the original deal post. Feel free to share your knowledge and help fellow shoppers make informed decisions.
Home Depot has Pioneer Low-Ambient 12,000 BTU 1 Ton 19 SEER Ductless Mini Split Wall Mounted Inverter Air Conditioner with Heat Pump on sale for $614.40. Shipping is free.
Thanks community member n74740 for sharing this deal
Features:
Cooling capacity: 12,000 BTU/hour with 19.0 SEER efficiency
Heating capacity: 12,500 BTU/H with 9.5 HSPF efficiency
I installed this exact model this past summer. Overall it is a very well thought out package and it is very doable to install yourself, but that also depends largely on your ability. There are some special tools you need to have like a manifold gauge set and vacuum pump, but those can be had fairly cheap and it's a good reason to buy new tools! The best advice is to go on youtube where there are videos of people installing these.
From last time this was posted. Great insight and info
"I own 3 pioneer's now. Honestly, for the price, it beats the Mr Cool that is always posted.
Never got the chance to posting the deal either, apologies to anyone.
No I'm not an electrician, nor a HVAC expert.
Regular person who just YT's everything and learn as I go. I did this to save money.
The first pioneer I bought in 17' I think, that was a 12k BTU, much lower SEER than my current ones.
Here's a few pointers and info at a glance:
DIAMANTE series was recently released, aesthetically it looks different, there's a small chart that tells you the difference in the temperatures it can run compared to the other models, it MAY be worth it to look into it, also it comes with 16" line set that can't be changed on the website (you can add or use your own line set to make it longer).
Out of all the models, DIAMANTE series is cheaper.
Second and third bought last year and this year. Both are 12k BTU's and rated at SEER 20 (115v), the 230v drops it down to 19 SEER. This is the DIAMANTE series that I have.
Prices went up by $50 or so dollars since I bought it, probably due to the shortage.
Yes they are made for DIY. Refrigerant is in the compressor (outdoor unit).
Pioneer CONSTANTLY updates their product without mentioning, and IMO, for the better.
My second unit was bought only a few months apart from my third unit.
The condensation line is a different and better quality.
Change in the plastic part that protects the lines inside the wall.
Different anti-vibration pads.
Register your product! It'll give you a 5 year warranty as opposed to 1 year if you don't.
IF you live in Miami, or anywhere near South Florida, go to their warehouse, and pick it up. I made the 2 hour (to and back) to their warehouse and picked it up to save on the delivery charges. Why?
Because Pioneer website COST MORE than their sister website? www.Highseer.com
BOTH websites/companies are the same. And the parent company Parker Davis.
Google PD and their website even has tutorials on taking your minisplit apart or installing it if you need to.
Can't control this through Wi-Fi, but I heard and they promote it on their website, on using the Cielo Breeze AC controller (Amazon it). No experience there but it seems you can control with smart apps/phone as well as a regular thermostat controller.
If you live in a hot area, just leave it on COOL and not Auto. It'll still turn off the outside unit and run when it needs to, but Auto feature sucks, IMO.
Also, hire an electrician if you don't know or can't make the connection, not worth your life.
Tools I invested while l learned back in 17' that I still use today:
5lb R410a refrigerant tank from offerup
Gauge set from Highseer (don't buy automobile gauges)
Pipe cutter from Home Depot
Flare tool from Home Depot
Vacuum pump from Harbor Freight
Adapter from 5/16" SAE to 1/4" SAE (This is a need if you don't have one to connect your gauges to vacuum it)
Proper gloves to mitigate any freeze burns from the refrigerant.
Save $153.60? Do your research first and then buy the best unit that fits your needs, you can't just guess at sizing. Many of the newer name brands have features that the older lower priced ones don't have. The new coatings and ease of cleaning make the mold problem easier to deal with. Yes, after a while many units develop mold that requires cleaning, it can be an easy job or not depending on the brand and model. SEER and low temp operation differ vastly from low to high priced units. It's not something that you want to just impulse buy.....and regret later.
This is very promising as a solution to a master bedroom that is the last stop in the line and heats and cools inadequately. I looked at the installation instructions and they are sparse at best. Can anyone speak to, or point to a better instruction set, that will help me visualize the level of effort/skill required?
Alternately, what would be the best guess (I understand there will be a range of costs) for an electrician to install this in an upper story, with the outside unit being at ground level? $200? $500? Any idea? (would get the 120 so no additional wiring I hope).
I bought a 12k 110v unit from eBay for $550. Arrived in good shape. They are very efficient even for my large celing living room.
IMO if your using this just for cooling your better off getting a midea U 12k. Mine only uses 600-800 watts, and cools a 250sq ft room fast.
This is very promising as a solution to a master bedroom that is the last stop in the line and heats and cools inadequately. I looked at the installation instructions and they are sparse at best. Can anyone speak to, or point to a better instruction set, that will help me visualize the level of effort/skill required?
Alternately, what would be the best guess (I understand there will be a range of costs) for an electrician to install this in an upper story, with the outside unit being at ground level? $200? $500? Any idea? (would get the 120 so no additional wiring I hope).
we have a similar mbr at the end of the run and one of these helped out a lot. easier and much cheaper to keep just the mbr cooler or warmer then the whole house with central. we had the outside half put on the backside of the garage. the noise is very minimal.
Done right the installation cost by a professional will be 2 - 3x the unit cost when you factor in electrical, addtional lineset, additional comm cable, lineset cover, condenser pad, ...
how efficient? anyone know the estimated cost difference between running these vs running a central air system? let's say. 2 of these to cool 2k Sq ft vs 1 central air unit to cool the same area+
Just for cooling, the 19 Seer rating of this unit (they sold out of the 20 Seer) is going to require a comparable rated central air system to compete. The higher the efficiency, the more a system costs. For central, if you don't already have central air or heat with the appropriate ducts, you will have to add those and balance the system for efficiency --- you cannot blow air into a bottle, so returns are very important with balancing.
For heating choices, that is going to depend on electric or gas costs per btu at your location and the efficiency of the unit. The OP is electric. On here, anyone would just be guessing at what is the most cost effective.
You should really have a local professional guide you through the process for your application.
Last edited by ToolDeals November 23, 2021 at 04:19 AM.
How easy is this to install yourself? If difficult, how much would you expect to pay someone?
edit: nvm this is 230v so too much hassle to get that installed as well
.
I think you will find most 110-120v systems will require a dedicate line to carry the required amperage. If I am going to run a dedicated line, a 220-240v unit will typically be more efficient.
With the compressor pre-charged for twice the included line footage and the lines pre-vacuumed, you could probably get by without a vacuum pump, gauges and recovery tank to capture the pre-charge. Otherwise, you will have a service call to make the system perfect.
This is very promising as a solution to a master bedroom that is the last stop in the line and heats and cools inadequately. I looked at the installation instructions and they are sparse at best. Can anyone speak to, or point to a better instruction set, that will help me visualize the level of effort/skill required?
Alternately, what would be the best guess (I understand there will be a range of costs) for an electrician to install this in an upper story, with the outside unit being at ground level? $200? $500? Any idea? (would get the 120 so no additional wiring I hope).
"Also, the new system for military discounts that gives the discount for online orders is working for this taking an additional $61.44 off!"
What is this new system? Link?
i just now did this. you go to your account, and there will be a link to give your military details. it will also ask for some proof, i uploaded my dd214, and it took about 5 minutes. this is excellent, dunno if it is for everything(like online purchases). lowes has been doing this for years
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank
Seems like a lot of questions and conjecture surrounding this, so thought I'd highlight some of the points from my install. I bought this exact unit in the summer. I read the instructions thoroughly and used youtube to prepare for the install. There were some how to videos of pretty much this exact brand and unit. I had a vacuum pump and gauge set already, and I picked up a 45 degree AC flaring tool (always looking for reasons to buy new tools!).
1. You get the outside unit, inside unit, 16' line set, wiring between inside and outside unit, wall bracket, wall template, remote, and misc hardware.
2. The line set has a nitrogen charge in it to prevent contamination which bleeds off when you pull the caps off. This is NOT refrigerant. Also, you may very well have to cut the lines and re-flare the ends if the lines are significantly too long. Coiling the excess line is a bad idea.
3. There is a nice template to lay out your inside unit. A bracket is mounted to the wall that the inside unit clips onto. You attach the lines to the inside unit (can be configured to exit right, left, or straight out the back), run the lines and wire thru the wall, and attach the inside unit to the wall.
4. Outside, you either mount the outside unit to a pad or to your wall with brackets (not included). You then attach the the lines and wiring coming from the inside unit.
5. 12/2 wire and a 15 amp breaker (must be it's own circuit, not shared) is appropriate. An outside disconnect at the unit should be used. The inside and outside unit are connected to each other with the provided wire(wires are labeled). The electrical service you provide attaches to the outside unit.
6. You attach your low-side (blue) gauge to the port, attach your pump to the manifold (usually yellow) and pull a vacuum on the lines for about 15 minute.Turn off the valve on the gauge and turn off the pump. Open the 3-way valve for 5 seconds then close it. Leave the gauge attached for 15 minutes or so watching to ensure the gauge doesn't move (this is your leak test, not the vacuum). Open high and low pressure valves completely.
Last edited by n74740 November 23, 2021 at 10:48 AM.
There are some special tools you need to have like a manifold gauge set and vacuum pump, but those can be had fairly cheap and it's a good reason to buy new tools!
Also an EPA license is required to legally work with refrigerants. It may be better to install the unit then hire an HVAC person to charge the refrigerant.
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Top Comments
"I own 3 pioneer's now. Honestly, for the price, it beats the Mr Cool that is always posted.
Never got the chance to posting the deal either, apologies to anyone.
No I'm not an electrician, nor a HVAC expert.
Regular person who just YT's everything and learn as I go. I did this to save money.
The first pioneer I bought in 17' I think, that was a 12k BTU, much lower SEER than my current ones.
Here's a few pointers and info at a glance:
DIAMANTE series was recently released, aesthetically it looks different, there's a small chart that tells you the difference in the temperatures it can run compared to the other models, it MAY be worth it to look into it, also it comes with 16" line set that can't be changed on the website (you can add or use your own line set to make it longer).
Out of all the models, DIAMANTE series is cheaper.
Second and third bought last year and this year. Both are 12k BTU's and rated at SEER 20 (115v), the 230v drops it down to 19 SEER. This is the DIAMANTE series that I have.
Prices went up by $50 or so dollars since I bought it, probably due to the shortage.
Yes they are made for DIY. Refrigerant is in the compressor (outdoor unit).
Pioneer CONSTANTLY updates their product without mentioning, and IMO, for the better.
My second unit was bought only a few months apart from my third unit.
The condensation line is a different and better quality.
Change in the plastic part that protects the lines inside the wall.
Different anti-vibration pads.
Register your product! It'll give you a 5 year warranty as opposed to 1 year if you don't.
IF you live in Miami, or anywhere near South Florida, go to their warehouse, and pick it up. I made the 2 hour (to and back) to their warehouse and picked it up to save on the delivery charges. Why?
Because Pioneer website COST MORE than their sister website? www.Highseer.co
BOTH websites/companies are the same. And the parent company Parker Davis.
Google PD and their website even has tutorials on taking your minisplit apart or installing it if you need to.
Can't control this through Wi-Fi, but I heard and they promote it on their website, on using the Cielo Breeze AC controller (Amazon it). No experience there but it seems you can control with smart apps/phone as well as a regular thermostat controller.
If you live in a hot area, just leave it on COOL and not Auto. It'll still turn off the outside unit and run when it needs to, but Auto feature sucks, IMO.
Also, hire an electrician if you don't know or can't make the connection, not worth your life.
Tools I invested while l learned back in 17' that I still use today:
5lb R410a refrigerant tank from offerup
Gauge set from Highseer (don't buy automobile gauges)
Pipe cutter from Home Depot
Flare tool from Home Depot
Vacuum pump from Harbor Freight
Adapter from 5/16" SAE to 1/4" SAE (This is a need if you don't have one to connect your gauges to vacuum it)
Proper gloves to mitigate any freeze burns from the refrigerant.
TDLR;
Pioneer is an amazing brand.
5 year warranty on most if not all models now, INCLUDING if you DIY, as long as you register within the timeframe.
Buy at Highseer.com and not Pioneerminisplit.com; same company, same warehouse, same parent company, cheaper.
Go for DIAMANTE series if your okay with 16" line set (and able to run within your temps)
Pickup at warehouse if you live in South Florida.
Wi-Fi module is extra. Look into Cielo Breeze AC Controller"
https://slickdeals.net/f/15195142-pioneer-12-000-btu-ductless-mini-split-19-seer-ac-heat-pump-inverter-system-699-free-store-pickup?p=148828
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104 Comments
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Alternately, what would be the best guess (I understand there will be a range of costs) for an electrician to install this in an upper story, with the outside unit being at ground level? $200? $500? Any idea? (would get the 120 so no additional wiring I hope).
IMO if your using this just for cooling your better off getting a midea U 12k. Mine only uses 600-800 watts, and cools a 250sq ft room fast.
Alternately, what would be the best guess (I understand there will be a range of costs) for an electrician to install this in an upper story, with the outside unit being at ground level? $200? $500? Any idea? (would get the 120 so no additional wiring I hope).
For heating choices, that is going to depend on electric or gas costs per btu at your location and the efficiency of the unit. The OP is electric. On here, anyone would just be guessing at what is the most cost effective.
You should really have a local professional guide you through the process for your application.
edit: nvm this is 230v so too much hassle to get that installed as well
I think you will find most 110-120v systems will require a dedicate line to carry the required amperage. If I am going to run a dedicated line, a 220-240v unit will typically be more efficient.
With the compressor pre-charged for twice the included line footage and the lines pre-vacuumed, you could probably get by without a vacuum pump, gauges and recovery tank to capture the pre-charge. Otherwise, you will have a service call to make the system perfect.
What is this new system? Link?
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Alternately, what would be the best guess (I understand there will be a range of costs) for an electrician to install this in an upper story, with the outside unit being at ground level? $200? $500? Any idea? (would get the 120 so no additional wiring I hope).
edit: nvm this is 230v so too much hassle to get that installed as well
What is this new system? Link?
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank
1. You get the outside unit, inside unit, 16' line set, wiring between inside and outside unit, wall bracket, wall template, remote, and misc hardware.
2. The line set has a nitrogen charge in it to prevent contamination which bleeds off when you pull the caps off. This is NOT refrigerant. Also, you may very well have to cut the lines and re-flare the ends if the lines are significantly too long. Coiling the excess line is a bad idea.
3. There is a nice template to lay out your inside unit. A bracket is mounted to the wall that the inside unit clips onto. You attach the lines to the inside unit (can be configured to exit right, left, or straight out the back), run the lines and wire thru the wall, and attach the inside unit to the wall.
4. Outside, you either mount the outside unit to a pad or to your wall with brackets (not included). You then attach the the lines and wiring coming from the inside unit.
5. 12/2 wire and a 15 amp breaker (must be it's own circuit, not shared) is appropriate. An outside disconnect at the unit should be used. The inside and outside unit are connected to each other with the provided wire(wires are labeled). The electrical service you provide attaches to the outside unit.
6. You attach your low-side (blue) gauge to the port, attach your pump to the manifold (usually yellow) and pull a vacuum on the lines for about 15 minute.Turn off the valve on the gauge and turn off the pump. Open the 3-way valve for 5 seconds then close it. Leave the gauge attached for 15 minutes or so watching to ensure the gauge doesn't move (this is your leak test, not the vacuum). Open high and low pressure valves completely.
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Share your experience with the Slickdeals community
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